Honda-SOHC

I suspect it was a bargain but we never got the pics.
It is amazing how much you can spend on a K0 though and Dave Silvers does not sell lots of the unique parts . Such as

Recessed Ignition switch
Rear Fender
Cut front fender
Metal base seat
Black knob kill switch 9one went NOS last week on Ebay for 240 GBP
Clocks
carbs

Yamiya750 sell the parts but the 'cut' front fender alone is around 700GBP

LPM sell good repro airboxes and side covers though, at very reasonable prices

So if anyone is ever looking for one check these items

I agree Pete  - people pay ridiculous amounts of money for parts - particularly for my K0, as you are fighting with Sandcast parts.
My mission it to document the parts, particularly electrical, as this is my field and pass it on via sites like these. Rather than pay 300 quid plus for a regulator, wiring harnesses, rectifier etc, start solenoid  switch I am refurbing my old ones with a view to a total strip and as near to new as possible. But remember it's not a competition!! It should be a relaxing hobby. You may be competing with perfectionists on these sites butwhen you take your finished bike out on a Sunday you will still get a warm glow when 'normal' people see it. The fact that odd bits may not be 100% original won't matter a jot to them.

Keep yer chin up mate    

Ash

Posted this on the US site: Any ideas?

"This is probably one for my UK buddies but here goes. I need to paint the 'Red' on controls of my '69 750K0. looked at my 400/4 ones which were NOS and they are an orangey-red so got a good match, I hope, with 'Humbrol' Gloss Fire Orange (shade no. 209). Question is, are the 750K0 ones the same colour?"

Just glad my right hand one with the black kill switch is very restorable. One went on Ebay NOS for 240GBP this week!!!!!

Pics are coming - I am just perfecting the temperatures etc and I am now favouring hot air gun (controlled by a Variac to achieve optimum melt temperature) and then cold 'forming' platen tool I have made from two bits of aluminium. I even made some covers you can can 'prepare earlier (Blue Peter style!!) and then slip on the wire, using PVC bonding adhesive to attach to the wire. They are looking "Honda style' - well good enough for me anyway.

I am also  doing a  TOTAL refurb of the regulator, rectifier, start switch as well ( I have stripped these down to the component parts, replated and need to reassemble, I must be mad I know 

I have also used the tool I made to heat crimp the type of 'slip on' bullet covers you get off Ebay and they look pretty good and you don't need the skipping rope (apart from the ones which have 2,3 and 4 bullets going ito them)

For my bit on the starter solenoid see my comments inside this post, it will be updated once I have yellow chromate passivate plated the steel parts.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=57104.0

Cheers

Ash D

Yes it is the same article but the US site down.

I have both types.

On the photo of the parts which  I have the one you can just see in the background is a 392 but I am sure is off a K7. The others came from an F1 motor I got to rob the crankshaft from for my K0 The F1 Engine no was  CB750E-2545740 . I do have the head from it too but it has a small mark on the ring around one of  the combustion chambers and also the barrels but one has slight corrosion on the top of one of the bores, as the motor was left standing for yonks.

Please see:

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2586.msg7389#msg7389

Also:
I posted this on another site :


Back to the clear covers. Please don't mock the following 

Bought a child's skipping rope which had PVC outer tube for 2 GBP. had it analyzed as well as a '69 Honda terminal cover and basically the same PVC except that the skipping rope one had a child friendly plasticizer in it. But the OD and ID were too big. Heated it up whilst stretching it to achieve a narrower OD and the right wall thickness, then quenched in cold water. Cleaned the bore with isopropanol and dried. Then used my daughters old hair crimpers and managed to fuse the sleeving end to a piece of old Honda loom cable (the temperature needs to be just right to soften the PVC but not degrade it). I just need to make the right heated aluminium platens on my lathe to give the correct profile. then they will look just like Honda 'fused to the wire covers' (female bit of bullet). I will post full details and pics when I have finished it.

I was born in the early 50's you know and we had a 'make do and mend' philosophy drummed into us in the UK !!

Ash D

I cleaned up all the connectors on the F1, using WD40, and a very small wheel in my Dremel, then used dielectric grease on them. I bought some new connectors which look just like the originals from eBay, place called Yambits. But I have noticed since I bought them that their prices have steadily gone up, however they are a great match for the originals. Here's a good offer

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-RD250-RD350-RD-250-350-WIRING-TERMINALS_W0QQitemZ220533947221QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item3358d8fb55

Cheers

Den

Cheers Den- I Have found these from quite a few places but I want to recreate the hot fused sleeves used on early Hondas

Hey - just looked on CMS website at the feedback on a new K0 wiring loom (actually a '341' loom) and someone complained that the twisted and soldered wires inside the loom (i.e. under the tape wrapping) were found to be twisted together  but not soldered. Imagine having to track that one down. it was described as manufactured by Honda but a repro and had Honda P/N

Just tring to modify an old pair of hair straighteners ( as you guess I have teenage daughters  ) to make a rig to fuse together plastic sleeving to get the original look on the connector sheaths. Anyone know where you can get transparent sleeving from of the original size?

Also worth remembering on looms where connectors are tinned that you can clean them up and then dip them in the dip type tinning solution used for PCB manufacture (Printed Circuit Boards) to replate. I did this on my 400/4 loom back in 1986!!