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Topics - alexdecker
1
« on: April 07, 2024, 03:42:17 PM »
Hey all
What is the best method to align the rear wheel on the frame, if you don't have any special tools available? Obviously I can use the marks on the frame, but is there a way to dial it all the way in? I feel a little jitter in the pedal of my rear brake, and I think it might be because of poor alignment.
I aligned the rear wheel according to the marks on the frame. Then I finger tightened the nuts. I then activated the rear brake and while holding down the brake, I tightened the nuts down.
What do you guys do?
2
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:28:13 PM »
Hey all
Chasing down a front brake leak. The bike has somewhat new steel braided brake lines. But I have a leak at the switch and all the way down at the caliber.
When looking at spare parts, I can see that by the switch, there is a stainless steel washer. Is that the only thing sealing this thing? No rubber or copper seals?
Also, by the caliper, it would seem I have a leak. The steel lines just screw directly into the caliper with no seal at all either. How can I fix a leak in that area? (see picture)
- Alex
3
« on: February 25, 2024, 04:43:39 PM »
Hi all Replacing some parts for the rear brake of my 550F from 1977. Just got all the parts from CMS and discovered too late that I forgot this part, and attaches the brake arm to the frame: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-european-direct-sales_model17122/bolt-stopper-arm_90133286000/Would there be anything wrong with using a normal bolt and riding with that until my next part order? Feel like it’s a little much doing a part order for just one bolt. Why does this need a special bolt to begin with? Just to be able to lock it with a pin? Seems to me I could just use a regular bolt the same thickness as the thick part of the original bolt? But as usual, I might be missing the bigger picture, so wanted to hear your opinion in here  - Alex
8
« on: June 30, 2023, 06:10:41 AM »
Hey all Alright, I have a few remaining issues with my CB550 F2 from 1977 that I wanted to run by you guys for advice. I have a feeling some of it might be related. I recently did the complete maintenance cycle (cam chain, tappet adjustment, timing, carb sync), and the bike seems to run great when warm. I am idling on around 1000RPM. But these are the things I am experiencing: 1. It still takes some effort to start up. Not a lot, but I’ve been led to believe that even when cold, these things can start up by one press of the start button. I would like my bike to get there. Right now it still needs some time and effort from the start motor, coupled with choker and small twists of the throttle. When it starts, I also have to give it a little throttle to get it to settle. Without that throttle, the engine usually dies again. Can it be a bad battery? Not enough spark? Bad coils? Bad wiring? Low compression? I am not using original Honda points. The ones I use can be a little hard to set so the firing matches up exactly. I usually have to turn the points to the outer limits of the plate and make the points gap as closed as possible (around 0.25-0.3 mm). I’ve heard that I don’t have to do this with original Honda points. Can that have something to do with the starting of the engine? I would love to get my bike to this point, where it just starts up: https://youtu.be/2k8U4bKgMjg?t=492. When driving on the highway and de-accelerating, sometimes the engine just go dead. Have to use the start button, and it starts immediately, but I find it weird that the engine gets killed like that sometimes. I thought the maintenance cycles helped it somewhat, but I still experience it now and then. What can the reasons for this be? Running too rich? I tried turning out the idle screw to 1 3/4 instead of the factory 1 1/2. The bike still runs fine, and haven’t experienced the engine going out since, but want to make sure it can’t be anything else either. I wonder if these two issues can be related? Some things to note about the bike: The spark plugs were a bit black when I took them out recently to check compression, which is another reason I turned out the idle screw a 1/4 turn more. The bike seems to run normal on this setting as well, although I seem to hear some more clunking sounds from the engine. Is there any reason for this, or am I just imagining things? The plugs are fairly new (3 years old and haven’t run that far) - should I buy new ones? Also, I measured the compression to around 25-30 on each cylinder, which makes me believe that my meter is broken. It had the same reading before I completely restored the engine, and I have no problems hitting around 180kmph on the highway. Also it idles fine and all that, so it seems unlikely that my compression is that low. But I don’t know what it actually is. Need to get a new meter. I feel like if I can fix the start issues and not have the engine die when going 120kmph and de-accelerating, the bike runs almost perfectly (to my knowledge anyways), so really eager to fix these things, but fix them correctly so the bike won’t take any longterm damage. What do you guys think?
9
« on: June 27, 2023, 07:01:56 PM »
So was driving recently, and I started wondering what's good for these old bikes. Usually, when I drive a car, I keep the revs fairly low. But on my bike, I do actually like to rev a little higher before I change gears.
Does anyone know what's actually best for these bikes? To shift gears when you reach around 4, 5 or 6.000 RPM? Also, when you do shift gear, do you rev up a little bit before releasing the clutch?
10
« on: June 22, 2023, 08:20:03 PM »
Hey all Going for a longer ride in Southern Sweden, and am doing packing lists right now. Can anyone advise a good set of tools to bring with me, that would allow me to do regular maintenance? I can think of some stuff myself, but wanna make sure I get all the tips and tricks I can get, and don't forget anything important
11
« on: June 22, 2023, 11:26:24 AM »
Hey all So went through the entire engine last year. The works. Also measured the flatness of the cylinder block and head. It is within spec. Obviously also changed just about every gasket and seal in the engine. That included a Vesrah gasket kit for the top end. I also substituted the oil gallery O-rings for someone slightly thicker (as per this forums suggestions). Got it back together. Ran it. No leaks. Changed the oil in November and stored it over the winter. And now the leak is back. From that damn left oil gallery between cylinder and head. It is a lot less though. Even with and hour on the freeway, it doesn't leak bad enough to drizzle on my shoes or any of the bike in general. Is this oil leak just something CB550 owners have to live with? I heard that Honda didn't include enough bolts in the design to properly tighten down the top end. And I feel like I've done pretty much anything that can be done to stop it (with the exception of using liquid sealant around the oil galleries. But maybe a little blue Hylomar would do the trick?). Can this oil leak be stopped in general? Or should I just ride and have fun with it, and appreciate the fact that at least I don't have to buy new shoes all the time 
12
« on: June 19, 2023, 06:57:41 AM »
Hey all
Saw this beautiful bike on the American forum. I am getting a new rear fender soon, as there are massive rust holes in my own. Instead of the stock taillight, I am looking for something a little more discreet like this, but if possible will still fit without modding fender/drilling holes.
Does anyone know of anything nice I could go for?
13
« on: June 17, 2023, 05:25:18 PM »
Hey all
So my bike starts up pretty fast. But when it starts, it doesn't come up in revs by itself. It kind of halts a little bit, and then needs a small twist of the throttle. When doing that, it settles in on a nice 1200RPM after that. But if I don't rev it a little, the engine dies again.
Is this the normal nature of the beast, or can I optimise something to prevent it?
14
« on: June 16, 2023, 08:56:09 PM »
Hey all
Since assembling my bike after going through the engine last year, the rear brake has sorta kicked back a little bit. It feels like there is some unevenness in the rear brake. I assume that the rear wheel might be mounted slightly crooked or there is some other thing that is off. Just not sure what.
Is this a common problem? It was fine before I took it apart, so don't think the brake pads (which are fairly new) is uneven. But maybe already?
15
« on: June 16, 2023, 06:35:29 AM »
Hey
Trying to get my wiring loom back to a somewhat clean factory condition. There is a lot of spades on mine. Am I mistaken, or is the wiring loom terminals primarily bullet connectors? So anywhere there is a spade, somebody made a reparation?
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