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Messages - alexdecker
1
« on: April 08, 2024, 10:05:01 AM »
Bring the engine to Gloucester and i will do it, buy and ultrasonic cleaner and do the carbs yourself with an O ring kit from Nurse Julie and DO NOT replace any of the brass in the carbs with "kits" as most kits are wrong nowadays.
If not kits, then single pieces from sources like CMS and DSS, or do you have any alternative for good sources?
2
« on: April 08, 2024, 04:52:32 AM »
Thanks all for your replies! I am based in Copenhagen, Denmark, so will try and find a local guy who can help me with this.
And thanks for the string method! I will do that as well, even though it doesn’t have something to do with the uneven brake feel 😊
The brake flutter is only slightly when I am driving slow and applying the brakes. Can it be that it just needs to be seated a little but more, and will disappear over time, or should I have this taken care of?
3
« on: April 07, 2024, 07:41:46 PM »
The inside doesn’t look cracked at all though. I have this picture.
4
« on: April 07, 2024, 06:16:13 PM »
The "jitter" is nothing to do with alignment but either oval or corroded drum, you dont say what bike it is, very frustrating and i dont care if its in the header, shouldnt need to read that!
Sorry, it’s a CB550F2 from 1977!
5
« on: April 07, 2024, 03:42:17 PM »
Hey all
What is the best method to align the rear wheel on the frame, if you don't have any special tools available? Obviously I can use the marks on the frame, but is there a way to dial it all the way in? I feel a little jitter in the pedal of my rear brake, and I think it might be because of poor alignment.
I aligned the rear wheel according to the marks on the frame. Then I finger tightened the nuts. I then activated the rear brake and while holding down the brake, I tightened the nuts down.
What do you guys do?
6
« on: March 30, 2024, 09:02:43 AM »
Will any M10 crush washer do, or do I need to source a specific thickness as well?
7
« on: March 29, 2024, 05:20:28 PM »
Do anybody know and can give me the stock length of the upper and lower front brake line for the CB550F Super Sport models? Supposedly they are slightly different than the K models.
8
« on: March 29, 2024, 04:43:59 PM »
Personally I see little justification for using anything other than the original set up for normal road use - a short metal brake pipe & a normal hose.
I am actually contemplating switching back to the original setup. But CMS does not have every part in stock, so I am hunting for parts right now. Denmark is not a good country for this hobby. We don’t have that many people in the craft and spare part dealers etc. it’s a little annoying!
9
« on: March 29, 2024, 02:15:16 PM »
Does anyone know a good place in Europe to get braided lines for a CB550F2 from 1977? I am getting lots of google hits from the US and UK, but none from Europe.
10
« on: March 29, 2024, 01:43:59 PM »
How often would one replace braided steel lines?
11
« on: March 28, 2024, 06:51:57 AM »
Thank you all for the replies. The leak by the switch seems very minor. I don't need to pump the lever to make the brake work. But when I use the brake 3-4 times, a tiny drop of fluid will leak from the switch. I will try and see if I can tighten it a bit and maybe that helps. I was looking at this spare part list ( https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-european-direct-sales_model17122/partslist/F05.html) and the washers (part 17) just seemed like regular steel ones - that's why I got a little confused. The connection to the caliper pipe inlet is still a bit of a mystery to me. Maybe it's just broken. The part list doesn't say it needs a crush washer, so I don't know how to seal it. Why is there no crush washer here? - Alex
12
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:28:13 PM »
Hey all
Chasing down a front brake leak. The bike has somewhat new steel braided brake lines. But I have a leak at the switch and all the way down at the caliber.
When looking at spare parts, I can see that by the switch, there is a stainless steel washer. Is that the only thing sealing this thing? No rubber or copper seals?
Also, by the caliper, it would seem I have a leak. The steel lines just screw directly into the caliper with no seal at all either. How can I fix a leak in that area? (see picture)
- Alex
13
« on: February 26, 2024, 05:44:14 AM »
Thanks guys. I will try and do an intermittent solution until I make my next part order, and save a bit of money and the environment then 
14
« on: February 25, 2024, 04:43:39 PM »
Hi all Replacing some parts for the rear brake of my 550F from 1977. Just got all the parts from CMS and discovered too late that I forgot this part, and attaches the brake arm to the frame: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-european-direct-sales_model17122/bolt-stopper-arm_90133286000/Would there be anything wrong with using a normal bolt and riding with that until my next part order? Feel like it’s a little much doing a part order for just one bolt. Why does this need a special bolt to begin with? Just to be able to lock it with a pin? Seems to me I could just use a regular bolt the same thickness as the thick part of the original bolt? But as usual, I might be missing the bigger picture, so wanted to hear your opinion in here - Alex
15
« on: November 23, 2023, 05:55:17 AM »
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