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Messages - Alexrayz
16
« on: January 19, 2022, 02:06:44 PM »
Maybe you could keep it as such and have an extra emergency off switch. Just need to holler whenever you need to.
No?
Ah well. Maybe your horn is just shorted out and needs replacement.
17
« on: January 19, 2022, 01:31:36 PM »
Alex, the best way to get the airbox rubbers to fit onto the centre carbs is to remove the air filter element from the air filter box, remove the connector tube and rubber to give you as much access room as possible.
Then use a screwdriver handle or a piece of wood with a rounded end to push the airbox rubbers forward onto the carb stubs from inside. Your hand has to manoeuvre down into the air filter box and partly through the large opening in the front.
It's difficult, frustrating and even painful at times, but it's possible.
I shall suffer then. Sucks to have big hands in those cases. Thanks for the tips! Gotta say this thread is starting to co;pile quite a bit of info, good for everyone.
18
« on: January 19, 2022, 01:29:30 PM »
I have had a bit of a hunt round amongst my spare parts and found what look like some sort of Asbestos replacement type gaskets bound with copper wire spiral binding.
I can't get my calipers into the exhuast port to measure the diameter its about 38mm at its narrowest being tappered from about 40-41m.
In the photo are two that are too big to fit they measure 39.7 mm for the enclosed copper gasket & 39.3mm for the open sandwich one with the blue filling.
Looking on the internet there are also alloy ones available - like this one below.
I suspect the two copper gaskets are for the 500.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283814932934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
The exhuast port has no paint on it so that's not causing the problem - I've given the port area a clean & removed what little paint that was - still too tight except of course the white soft gaskets.
. IMG_20220118_131444 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
That's asbestos?! Frack man I touched those things and and my face afterwards. Guess I'll die. Didn't know these were for the pipes, I assumed it only was copper washers. Thanks!
19
« on: January 19, 2022, 12:53:47 PM »
Thanks Alan!
20
« on: January 19, 2022, 12:05:18 PM »
Hey Alan,
That would be great indeed, I'll see that with you by PM! I was thinking of making a sudo retainer with a wire coathanger, just something to hold the filter snug.
21
« on: January 19, 2022, 08:46:37 AM »
Hey K2 (is that your droid name?)
Nah man by all means labour away! Having taken some time off and re read Bryanj's post, I did not in fact follow that procedure to the letter. I will take it back from the top.
Two things I have forgotten to mention: I do not have the spring retainer for the air filter and I haven't got either the air filter cover. I have used duct tape as a makeshift cover but no garantee it is air tight. Do you think these missing elements might leanen the mixture? I say this knowing that at the moment the mixture is rich ( sooty plugs) but if it does leanen the mix it wouldn't help getting a reliable setup right?
Lastly on that front: The airbox is the original and because of its age, it has warped a bit, the front end is a tad concave. Consequently connecting properly the air intakes for carb 2 and 3 is not feasable. I can get them in and even tighten the collars but not get the connectors all the way in. I guess that doesn't help either? Could not find a lot of info on those issues.
All the best
22
« on: January 17, 2022, 03:08:28 PM »
1/8 inch is 3mm not 0.15mm
Right. 1/16" then. Still not accustomed to imperial measurements, but it was 0.15mm thick measured on the engine side.
23
« on: January 17, 2022, 02:50:36 PM »
I did indeed! Even found an actuall drill bit that is 0.15mm (1/8")
24
« on: January 17, 2022, 11:28:19 AM »
Hey everyone,
Just giving an update on the situation: Still not working atm.
The last actions taken were as follows: Did a vacuum sync which gave good results, smoother idle and no surges (or at least none happened while I was testing in in the shop). I still had revs hanging after giving the slides a quick lift. Actuating the slides the other way helped bringing it down. New issue though: Even without the idle screw acting on the slides the tick over is 2500RPM. No good.
My guess while vacuum syncing I lifted the slides too much. So I decided to get the carbs off again and redo the bench sync.
Did just that, also reajusted the choke's butterflies as they were not even. Put the carbs on again and it ran like crap again. Surges crazily and when it doesnt it can barely hold tick over at 1000rpm. Acting on the idle screw results in instant surges to 2500/3500 rpm. Still managed to sort of sync it at 2500rpm but without improvement.
Tried to lift the slides with the cable grip and it killed the engine immediately. I gave up after that.
I am starting to consider seeing a mechanic as I feel this is beyond my capabilities and knowledge.
I really struggle to see a consistency in the behavior and the right actions to take.
25
« on: January 10, 2022, 09:46:47 PM »
Hey Dennis, thanks for all that sweet sweet info, I think I will do the vacuum gauge sync next time working on the bike. Seems like it will clear up more questions and hopefully solve my issues.
I was actually wondering if there is a proper methodology for the mixture screw settings. I know that the look of the plugs is a telltale sign but I was wondering how precise it gets without requiring an IR exhaust gas probe.
Cheers!
26
« on: January 10, 2022, 05:43:45 PM »
Hey Alan,
I guess that could be possible with old cables. As it gets old with many manipulations and service the copper wires can fray and cut which could lead to intermittent connections.
I have never encountered the case in motorcycles or cars or else but I have in houses and offices with old electric installations.
Soo maybe?
27
« on: January 10, 2022, 04:39:07 PM »
Hey Julie, finally got time to search for it, I knew it was buried somewhere in my mailbox.
The plugs are NGK D8EA and the caps fitted on it are XD05F and VD05F. The leads are originals, same as the coils.
Ted: I did do that, I have a daytona electronic ignition trigger, there is an LED that turns on to show when the sparks will happen and I'd say it is right on the dot. It was a static test though.
You'd recommend getting a stroboscopic light?
K2-K6 I have bench synced them yup. Some lad at work advised me to do a running sync to make sure everything is tip top on that front. Even with a bench sync you can get inbalances that throw off the whole thing.
Daz-J did you check float heights?
Thanks for your help guys, means a lot!
Take care,
Alex
28
« on: January 09, 2022, 07:24:43 PM »
Hey all, hope you're doing good!
I have made significant progress with my bike the last few weeks I'd like to especially thank Alankelly1 for his most precious help and Nurse Julie for the O-rings and the mounting advice that made the job of replacing the old ones so much easier!.
So: I have stripped the carbs, cleaned and blown every jet screws and passages possible. I have swapped the idle jets I had from an overhaul kit with nice keihin originals, thanks Alan!
The floats have been set to 21mm and checked for holes. The carbs have been bench synced. O rings were replaced and put in place with red rubber grease to avoid shearing. The slides snap back nicely. The mixture screws have been set to 1 1/2 turns out.
After installing the carbs back I have fiddled with the idle stop screw to get to 1200rpm when warm and off the choke. I then set the fast idle screw to 0.2mm clearance.
I get a respectably stable idle at 1200 rpm when warm. Startup isnt too rough.
The problem I have is jsut that the damn thing surges, it can be when operating the throttle or just when left alone for a while. In which case only fiddling with the idle stop screw will make it come down. I then have to fiddle again to bring it back to 1200rpm.
I have removed the throttle cables to make sure they were not messing with anything and indeed no change in behavior. |
Overall it seems like a lean condition problem. But when I turn the mixture screws by a 1/4 turn in to enrich the mix it stutters. My guess would turn to an air leak but doing the "squirt brake cleaner on suspect spots"method to no avail. I tried the inlet boots, fore and aft; the top of the carbs on the gaskets, the depression ports on the boots and the spark plugs just in case and nothing.
Do you guys have any leads or ideas what might cause this?
So close!
Take care
29
« on: December 27, 2021, 04:25:33 PM »
No, you cannot repair that area with helicoils.
Welp there goes that plan! Thanks for the info! Got your Orings, all good! You da bomb Sent from my Mi A2 using Tapatalk
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