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Messages - Eldrick
46
« on: September 19, 2022, 02:08:12 PM »
Something lurking in my adled brain tells me that the carbs are "handed" so if you have a total box of bits(still got the 400 ones to do comfy, need felts) and you mix the slides up it is possible to get them in wrong. I may well be wrong on that myself, would be glad for confirmation
Then I am just going to remove the carbs from the block and look. The education alone from removing and replacing them gives me more confidence in doing my own maintenance
47
« on: September 19, 2022, 11:31:11 AM »
I did not remove the slides from the bodies at any point during my inspection/cleaning. That does not exclude some other owner having done that in the past. The question remains tho, could they be in the wrong body and therefore reversed?
I know about the grove on the slide, technical question; is that grove on the right hand side for all four slides? If so, then I guess they cannot be reversed. If, on the other hand, for example, they are on the right hand side for 1 and 2 and the left hand side for 3 and 4, that is to say the groves all face into the centre line of the carb bank, then the wrong slide could be in the body. Having never took one apart I can’t be sure if that is possible.
Don't know about blocked pilot jet, I did blast all Needle and Slow jets with compressed air (is the slow jet the pilot?), before re-assembly and air passed through those quite well in my amateur opinion.
48
« on: September 19, 2022, 09:20:28 AM »
Is that possible that my carbs are having an out of body experience?
I removed the carbs a few months ago after the bike choked to a halt, out on a run. After that I removed the carbs from the block, checked and set the float heights and specifically replaced the Carburettor float valves in all four carbs as they were stuck solid.
I then followed Bryanjs’ ‘Basic bench carb balance guide', replaced the gaskets (top and bottom) on the carbs and mounted them on the bike again. The bike runs now, however I have an issue getting the bike to idle at anything near 1200rpm, it is more like a minimum of 2000rpm.
I removed the carb block again to bench sync again, mainly because I messed with the slide adjusters too much. I decided I got it benched properly and mounted the carbs on the block again. I also used a vacuum carbtune kit, the perfectionist in me insisted, I still cannot get the idle down to 1200rpm.
I have also checked and set each air pilot screw, could be naming those wrong, to 2 plus one half turn open. On the carb tune I can only match the carbs to within 10-8cmHg. So, carb 3 may be at 16cmHg and carb 4 would be at 24-26cmHg.
The main observation I had and the reason for the question:
Bryanjs’ ‘Basic bench carb balance guide‘ says about the slides; ‘Engine side, it has the flat bottom not the cutaway.' During my observations whilst doing this bench sync I could really tell there was a cut away on the slide so I proceeded working on the engine side, my brain is now convinced that there was a different shape to the slides on the air box side. Too late for that thought, the carbs are now on the bike again and I don’t mind removing them again to check.
Questions are;
1. Could the slides be on back to front?
2. Can the slides be extracted from all four bodies without removing the bodies’ from the block?
3. If 1 and 2 are possible and I fix the issue can I just use the vacuum sync and be confident that the carbs are performing optimally if I then get 1200rpm tick over and a balance of around 16-24 cmHg and all four within 3cmHg of each other?
ThanksKenny m
49
« on: June 04, 2022, 06:55:10 PM »
Honda CB400-Four for sale. Starts well, runs well looks great with many original parts. This is an N-Reg 1975 example of the model and I use it to get to and from picturesque locations in the West of Cornwall. I recently replaced all exhaust gaskets (during the 'Spring Cleaning' routine) and bench balanced the carbs after re-setting the float heights.
Bike never goes out in bad weather and is garaged and covered when not out. I can't honestly say it is all 100% original-genuine replacement parts but it does look to be very original. I am sure others on here will know by the photos what is old or new.
This is not an exclusive advert for the bike.Selling this bike to move to a modern, maintenance free, (more bike riding) RE-350.
Happy to accept £4000 for it from anyone on the forum and I have listed it elsewhere for £4500.
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50
« on: May 21, 2022, 08:55:40 AM »
Found a Breather Chamber on e-bay for under £20. So I will instal that. I like the idea of having another genuine part on the bike. If I am super clever I will see if I can copy the design into 'blender' and maybe have it 'printed'.
51
« on: May 19, 2022, 06:03:46 PM »
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In this image, fig.1.1 the part [2] 'Breather Case'should be below my Air box. I dont have that, there is just a wee hole, one that is too small for the hose coming out of the top of the engine block. I am using a hose with 11mm Inside diameter x 16.5mm Outside diameter for the part marked [1] Breather Tube, in the diagram.
Question;
Is the part available anywhere?
Should I care that I otherwise vent to the atmosphere?
Could I fabricate one for a 'yoghurt pot' so to speak and achive the designed effect?
52
« on: May 15, 2022, 05:42:01 PM »
Geat tip Eldric.
That looks a neat idea, really easy without any tool if you have no rear wheel or mudguard fitted - as you say an absolute pig otherwise.
I'll look at making something like that next time I have to do it in situ. Did you look at using a long bolt instead of two long screws or does that make getting in situ impossible?
I just don't have bolts so used what I had.
53
« on: May 15, 2022, 01:15:14 PM »
the wrench photo went missing
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54
« on: May 15, 2022, 01:13:21 PM »
Time to give to the forum, I was looking at posts and videos about getting the air box onto the carbs after the carbs were installed. I tried yesterday, even with my heat gun and failed.
Today I made a tool out of wood and fitted the box very quickly.
Here are a few photos of what I made.
Oval shape, using the metal link part that goes into the airbox as a pattern.
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It is one and a half inch thick, give or take...
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In situ ready to put some pressure on the, well that part that never goes over the carb to easily.
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Wrench to apply the pressure.
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So, one hand on the wrench one on the screwdriver and I was pleased
55
« on: May 15, 2022, 09:08:08 AM »
If you want to torque every thing 8 ftlbs to 50 ftlbs, leave out the alternator, primary gear and clutch nut and 8 ftlbs to 20 ftlbs will do.
Those 3 are normaly done to BT.
I don't anticipate ever replacing pistons myself but I would be ok replacing gaskets in the head. I also would not be touching gear boxes, so with that in mind, what range may I need?
56
« on: May 15, 2022, 09:04:44 AM »
3.2 is a bit big, better using a 1/16 drill bit shank preferably new so no damage
OK so about 1.5mm, I may have a dril bit, if not the guage will do it
57
« on: May 14, 2022, 09:07:44 PM »
Don't worry too much about vac sync gauges, you can set the slides very, very, very close by manual bench sync.
I may have just done that bit with 3.2mm feeler guage. I also think I can afford that wrench if it is the Britool AVT300A
58
« on: May 14, 2022, 06:47:55 PM »
My trusty Britool 1/2" wrench was too big so I bought a 3/8" Draper. Good tool but the Imperial & Metric Scales are in Inch-Lbs or Newton Metres range is 10-80Nm. I had to do a conversion for all the settings in my manuals.
Ha, see, I didn't even think about all that maths! Glad I asked before buying.
59
« on: May 14, 2022, 01:55:24 PM »
I want to do more work on my 400f myself and I think I want a torque wrench and a carb synchronizing kit.
I keep looking online and get overwhelmed with choice. The other issue is I don't really know which is best overall for this specific bike rather than ‘the best make’. No good having a best make torque if I can't perform most/all jobs on my bike and end up buying another one.
I also thought I wanted a single gauge, four into one, sync kit, I could be fooling myself though. I liked the idea that all four carbs were being tested on one gauge.
So, if you can recommend a good torque wrench and carb synchronizing kit I can get started on being a shed mechanic and maybe even get a second (His and Hers) 400f.
60
« on: May 14, 2022, 01:24:06 PM »
Welcome to the forum. That's a nice looking bike. Remove the gaiters though, they were never fitted to 400/4's.
That's a good plan, more shiny bits. They were fitted by previous owner I guess and no, this will not be out in the rain so off they will come.
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