Honda-SOHC

My wife is the best wife anyone could hope for, doesn't mind if I work on my bike all weekend, go out for rides when I like for as long as I like, that sort of freedom is of course priceless, she's beautiful, intelligent and funny, a brilliantly talented singer to boot, and I really can't fault her..........apart from the tidying up, you see she is in the habit of tidying the house, it's beyond me as to why anyone would want to do that sort of thing, but it makes her happy so it's fine with me............apart from this time she has tidied away my Haynes manual...........and she doesn't know where she put it  , therefore could someone please tell me how much fork oil I need to put in my forks from dry?, cheers Mark.

I'll be there at 10 sharp hoping to find a few rare bargains!! (not that it ever happens at bike shows these days)

http://www.donington-park.co.uk/events/2014/03/09/12th-classic-car-bike-spring-restoration-show-1/

When I first got my k7/k6 donor bike running I had a fuel leak from the drain tubes, I cleaned the float valves/checked float heights etc but still had a leak from No3 drain, it was only when I swapped float bowls 3 and 4 over and the leak followed the No3 float bowl that I looked closely enough to spot a hairline crack in the thin brass overflow tube in the float bowl, not sure if this is caused by moisture freezing in the tube or vibration but it's not as uncommon as you might think, just thought I'd mention it in case someone else gets this issue.
Top tip - always keep a small fire extinguisher within easy reach whilst working on the fuel system, and remember to put your hands out first!

Here's a link to some very useful wiring info on the SOHC4 forum, all credit to "Jonsey" for taking the time to put it together.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=18049.0

Does anyone have a pair of scrap cb750 wheels (or just a front wheel) I could buy or borrow whilst mine are away at central wheels being built with alloy rims, I'm in derby but could pick them up within a 50 mile radius, central wheels have a 5 week lead time and I can't have the bike immobile for that long because it will hold the build up, cheers mark.

Here,s how I freed mine , they were seized solid having been motionless in a damp garage since 1995
1 drill a 4mm hole through the aluminium body of the arm until you hit the steel pivot pin, do this approximately half way up the aluminum arm body as that is where the grease recess is situated on the pivot pin
2 soak overnight in a bowl of plus gas or similar penetrating oil
3 grip the single bolt end of the pivot in a vice, heat the bracket with 2 bolt holes and work it to and fro until it can be pulled off
4 heat the aluminium arm at the pivot end with a heat gun, get it really hot
5 tap the calliper end of the arm from side to side with a soft mallet, not too hard
6 apply penetrating oil and continue to tap the arm from side to side, if it doesn't move apply more heat and oil
7 once it starts to move grab the arm (whilst wearing welding gloves, its hot!) And work it to and fro
8 keep working it side to side and pull upwards at the same time, the arm will start to come off the pivot
9 once it is apart clean off the corrosion
10 drill out and tap the 4mm holes that you drilled and fit grease nipples
11 grease the pins and reassemble fitting new O rings at the top and bottom of the pivot pin.

Has anyone found pattern fork stanchions for a K7 (1977)?, I can find them for the F2 etc but they are different, the centre of the groove on the K7 fork is approx 65mm from the end of the stanchion, I just took mine out to get them re-chromed but there is a slight bend in them, nothing too bad but by the time I've paid for them to be straightened and re-chromed it's probably going to cost £200 ish, if you know of a supplier please let me know, cheers Mark.

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