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Messages - billywingnut
31
« on: June 25, 2019, 08:58:59 PM »
there are two O rings on the oil pump Spares are available from DS
32
« on: May 16, 2019, 06:13:16 PM »
Looks like it's been done by PO 'working' on it. I had the problem with play in the gear which was causing 'slap' similar to a slack chain. I bought a s/h one off ebay with very little play which cured the problem
33
« on: April 22, 2019, 07:42:47 PM »
Is your chain catching the chainguard?
34
« on: March 16, 2019, 06:24:02 PM »
I would like stainless bolts for the front brake caliper as it catches the weather and debris but the the pitch is non-standard.
35
« on: February 13, 2019, 04:02:50 PM »
I bought a set of cheap gauges, before using them it's best to check there calibration. I rigged up some plastic tubing ot connect all four gauges together then connected them to one of the carb inlets. I was then able to check all four gauges gave the same readings.
I tweaked one to get them all the same before using them.
It's true that as long as all for carbs read the same the levels are not that important. Dont adjust all four though, you need one carb as a reference.
two and a half turns out of the airscrew seems to be a good starting point.
good luck
36
« on: February 12, 2019, 10:55:03 PM »
Thanks for all comments,
The voltage drop occurs with the kill switch stripped out so I guess it must be bad connection at ign switch or plug/socket.
What I was trying to determine is whether this drop is normal for this model. or is a fault on my bike.
Has anybody checked the voltage on points ( when open) and if so what do you get.
37
« on: February 12, 2019, 08:30:47 PM »
After doing some checks on my bike I am puzzled by some of the voltage readings I have found.
My battery stands at 12.6 volts when ign is off. I switch on ignition it drops to 11.8 volts with engine not running.
When I check the voltage on the black and white connectors under the tank that feeds the contact breakers, it is showing 10.6 volts with the wires to the contact breakers disconnected, A loss of over 1.2 volts.
The battery has been charged and is 18 mths old.
What I would like to know is where is that 1.2 volts being lost, is that normal?
The bike runs ok but I believe the spark could be stronger.
38
« on: December 16, 2018, 04:40:59 PM »
Have you checked the plug caps? I measured the resistance on mine they are usually about 3500 ohms (3.5kohms), one was measuring over a meg ohm ( 1,000,000) so I replaced the lot and plugs. People are saying buy the none resistor type spark plugs, Check the points and replace if necessary. My bike will not run smooth without the air filter in place with a good lid on the filter box. I think it's a good idea to buy an inexpensive compression tester if you have never tested it you could have valve issues. I don't mean to scare you should be prepared to put some work in and learn new skills to get it running correctly, it's worth the trouble
39
« on: November 18, 2018, 10:02:11 PM »
It's a pity they didn't have replaceable shells on the camshaft
40
« on: November 08, 2018, 09:51:37 PM »
Hi Mattzs,
I bought a '75 UK model 2 years ago the tax disk on the bike was for dec 1998. I decided to restore it to ride and not to concourse. I knew it was going to be costly and take time to go thro' it.
Expect to spend £2k. It had to be reliable and safe.
Here's what i did. The carbs, fit new kits and cleaned them, the air box is a pig to get back on. Overhauled the front brake with master cylinder, lines and pads, the disk was ok put on new rear brake shoes.
New wheel bearings back and front, new spokes front and rear, front wheel rim, tyres and inner tubes. Changed the Headstock bearings and fork seals. At this point I decided to strip down the bike completely. It had 34k on the clock. I did a compression test and found no. 2 very low so stripped the engine down and fitted new rings, The cylinder head was a pig to get off as two nuts are open to the elements these were rusted solid. I replaced the cam chain and cam chain tensioners.
The primary drive chain, chain and sprokets, lapped the valves etc. all the bearings appeared to be in good order but you have to replace all the oil seals, The is an excellent you video on stripping down the engine. The tank was the wrong colour ( yellow) but in
good condition so I lined the tank and resprayed it using 2part rattle cans and it sets hard and looks the part, yours being the US model has the strange filler cap I replaced the petrol filter and fuel lines. The exhaust is the original and like all bright work in serviceable condition. I finally got it on the road in May this year and for safety I took it and had it MOD't which it passed . It's a pleasure to ride, not the fastest bike on the block and you have to rev them.
I removed the cover from the wiring loom and removed bodges and wiring that didn't belong and checked every connector, you can buy jap connectors so I replaced the lot.
Being a 'mature' rider at 71 I had the time and patience to sort it. I could easily have spent another £1000 on the engine on a rebore
and replacement head as there is some burnt sections, you have to make a judgment as to how far to go with your restoration. I used only basic tools. Good luck with your 400f 4
41
« on: September 11, 2018, 08:15:31 PM »
Having restored my bike and done around 300 miles I notice cyl. one runs cooler from cold start, when hot it's difficult to tell. The carbs all had new DS kits fitted and I balanced carbs twice. The valves were lapped and new rings fitted, new plugs and plug tops. bike now has 34000 on it. No smoke and it pulls well. I have done valves to 3 thou for the hot summer. I thought I knew the answers to most things but not so sure now. Before I start ripping things apart again I would appreciate your views.
42
« on: August 03, 2018, 06:52:13 PM »
I had problems with bad earthing similar to yours. It turned out that the indicator bracket which had been powder coated ( new off DS spares) It earths through the two headlamp bolts. I had to rub some paint off then all was well
43
« on: July 18, 2018, 09:26:28 PM »
I had this problem after an engine strip down. I used a piece of poly tubing slid over the bolt. It stopped the leak but then the leak moved elsewhere from the joints. To cut a long story short I stripped the engine down again. I used less jointing compound and was extra careful about the locating peg on the gearshaft. I think because the joint had too much jointing compound the oil got round the back of the bolt. It's fine now I hope that makes sense.
44
« on: June 27, 2018, 05:34:36 PM »
you were right about the glazing of the pads, I've had to remove them and carefully scrub off the glazing.
45
« on: June 13, 2018, 05:25:07 PM »
thanks for the advice
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