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Messages - billywingnut
46
« on: June 13, 2018, 12:55:31 PM »
nice job mate, I once had smoke on a triumph cub after rebore and new piston, it turned out I had put the scraper ring in upside down.
47
« on: June 13, 2018, 12:37:17 PM »
Well, although I didn't need to, I took my bike for an MOT at the local Honda dealer. It passed with flying colours as it should with the amount of work I've done on it. It marks the end of phase one of the project. Having taken a 50 ish mile ride on it here are my findings .
It's very smooth and responsive up to 6000 rpm I haven't pushed it any further , new rings to bed in. On the downside I find the front brake is not a two finger affair I have to grab a handful and it appears to fade a little. All parts have been replaced in the front braking system. The top end is still a little rattlly even though I replaced primary and cam chains and tensioners, I know it's common but there is still room for improvement. Having said that it's a nice a nice ride.
48
« on: May 25, 2018, 02:15:58 PM »
Hi, Once you've had it repaired be sure to use a tank liner and fit a new fuel filter. It's not cheap restoring one of these but good fun
49
« on: May 11, 2018, 06:10:23 PM »
Thanks for all the comments and advice
A new lever from DSS made all the difference in terms of lever travel, I'm happy with it Now. I did replace all lines seals, washers pads etc. If anything the brake needs backing off now.
50
« on: May 06, 2018, 07:18:34 PM »
My 400f 4 is almost ready for MOT. The only thing I'm not happy with is the front brake lever. Though not spongy it has more travel than I would like. I have fitted the bushing to the caliper which was missing. I have fitted master cyl kit, pads brake seals etc. Have bled the brake several times carefully. It stops ok but the feel could be better. anybody got any ideas
51
« on: May 06, 2018, 07:03:06 PM »
I had similar problems with clutch adjustment. Having checked everything during engine rebuild the clutch operated from the lever then after several squeezes it would make a snap noise and look just like your photo. I slackend the cable then used a screwdriver to lever the arm back into position. I had the adjuster bolt set too far out. careful adjustment stopped this happening. The operating plate 'with the three balls' was jumping out which caused the snap to happen. I hope this makes sense.
52
« on: April 19, 2018, 05:29:12 PM »
The grooves in the clutch basket fingers are caused by the clutchplate tangs pressing against the fingers when you accelerate or take up the weight of the bike in normal use. You could be right about plates being in the wrong order thogh I am careful to put things back as I take them out.
53
« on: April 19, 2018, 12:34:30 PM »
After refitting the engine following Cam, drive chain and piston rings etc, I find I cant get into neutral with the engine running. On centre stand or with engine turned off no problem. While the engine was apart I filed the fingers on the clutch basket as there was grooves in it. On the centre stand with engine running I can get in/out any gear. I have tried adjustment of clutch every which way. Any ideas?
54
« on: December 25, 2017, 12:10:14 PM »
I'm still trying to cure what I believe is a carb problem having rebuilt the bike this year. Its been off the road since 1998.The bike starts OK, after a minute or so I close the choke until the bike runs ok at around 1200 rpm. I get this misfire from carbs ( difficult to tell if it's just one carb) it sounds like it's spitting. This seems to stop as I take the revs up. Would faulty coils cause this kind of issue or have I not set them up correctly. I have fitted new carb kits as part of my rebuild and did a thorough job of cleaning them. Had new plugs, points and plug tops. Double checked timing, tappets etc. Set slow running screws to two and a half turns out set sliders to 1mm from bottom. Any ideas?
Merry Christmas all
55
« on: December 06, 2017, 06:53:29 PM »
good idea, I will try that
56
« on: December 06, 2017, 05:36:47 PM »
Hi, thanks for allowing me to join. I have been restoring a Honda 400f 4 for the last 12 months. Got it mostly done now just a few niggles. It misfires mainly at tick over, I have replaced all consumables in the carbs and watched youtube videos. can't see any leaky carb/ head connectors tried the spraying with carb cleaner trick. I have replaced plugs points and plug caps and have double checked all gaps and timings. When restoring I stripped down the engine and replaced both chains and piston rings, one of the pistons was damaged, I replaced just the faulty one, the bores are not scoured and within spec for 33k miles the head had been burned a bit as a result. It starts with one kick sounds ok (when the carbs are full) Not sure where to go with it now. I have not replaced the coils but they read ok Does anybody have any ideas. I lapped the valves and replaced the guide rubbers Any suggestions?
Here is a pic of my bike on day 1, It's a 75 model registered in 77. As you can see the tank is not original, I intend to have it painted, it's sound and I have lined it. The exhaust appears to be original as are the mudguards and chain guard. I have replaced the handlebars as the riding position doesn't suit me ( I'm getting on in years) I don't intend to go concours just clean and reliable.
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