Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Oggie400F on November 24, 2019, 05:03:14 PM
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The swivel joints on the linkages appear to be ‘riveted’ into the linkage arms (see pics) and am wondering if these can somehow be removed for the linkages to be re-chromed and then refitted afterwards.
Has anyone here had their gear linkage assembly re-chromed and if so how did you go about it?
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Pretty sure Graham Curtis who is making your exhaust repair panel has these done all of the time...so worth contacting him... I had mine done way back in 1986 and honestly can't remember how I did it.
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Pretty sure Graham Curtis who is making your exhaust repair panel has these done all of the time...so worth contacting him... I had mine done way back in 1986 and honestly can't remember how I did it.
Thanks Ash.
I will contact Graham to see if he has a solution and will post an update.
I’m sure that he will offer good advice.
I have already received the repair panels from him but need to get the collector de-chromed before I can begin the repair.
I will be posting all of the stages of the process once I get started. 👍
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I bought myself a new aftermarket item like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292633661096
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I bought myself a new aftermarket item like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292633661096
Cheers Athame57
I have managed to disassemble the linkage ball joints and will get the originals re-chromed.
Just out of interest, how did you find the pattern part for quality and originality?
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Had mine chromed at Niphos, Crewe with the balls still attached. Just gave them the three parts and replaced the nuts with new.
See pic, not a great pic I know, I had to zoom into a pic of something else. Can't take a decent pic at the moment as the bike is sealed up in it's vac bag.
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BTW mine was worse than yours for rust.
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Just out of interest how did you get the ball joint to separate without breaking them? Same system used on my current 1300 and I want to get that re-chromed so the info would come in useful.
Hi Oddjob
I held the linkage in a vice then pulled and twisted with some force until the ball sprung out of the cup.
This method was described to me by Graham Curtis.
It came apart with no damage so I can send the link arms, complete with the riveted ball part of the joints attached, and the left and right handed thread link rod to be re-chromed.
I will re-plate all other associated parts BZP in my small batch plating set up. 🙂
I just need to find replacement joint rubbers and change arm rubber to make as new. I think Julie may be able to help me there.
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Coming apart may be fine, I wonder however how well they'll go together again :) :)
Oh and BTW, I know where to find the nuts in stainless including the reverse thread one, saves having them chromed and the chrome chipping off the edges where you fit the spanner.
Tease!
Where can I get SS m6 left and right hand threaded nuts? 🤔😁
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Thanks for the tip Oddjob, looks like he'll have plenty of future orders👍.
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Here. I used to buy all my stainless stuff from him back in the 70-80s, really good stuff as well. Have a good look around, there are lots of goodies on that site.
https://www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk/32930-metric-nuts-full
Cheers Oddjob. 👍
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I believe that platers can mask off areas that are not to be plated, you would need to ask your plater. That being the case it would not be necessary to remove the pins, but just have them masked during the plating process.
I have had this done with both zinc and chrome plating such as when doing wheel spindles when you want the ends plated but not the shafts.