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Messages - masonmart
136
« on: May 25, 2016, 03:00:05 PM »
How about the Units that David Silver sells at around £100?
137
« on: May 25, 2016, 01:21:08 PM »
Can anybody recommend a good EI system for a CB500.
MM
138
« on: May 24, 2016, 06:22:38 PM »
Thanks Oddjob, I did find some history and am checking with Trigger to see if he has any left otherwise I'll get one machined.
139
« on: May 24, 2016, 05:23:54 PM »
This strange CB500 that I have been blessed with restoring has sprung another surprise. I didn't think anything when I disassembled the engine but the clutch lifter rod was in two pieces; the part from the clutch to the LHS stopped short of the oil seal and there was a second piece that took it out to the clutch lift lever. All of the schematics I've seen show a single rod and I can't see how or why it would have been designed as a two piece rod.
Can somebody confirm whether it's one or 2 piece and can anybody help in selling me one if it's one piece
140
« on: May 18, 2016, 07:45:50 PM »
Only have one of those 
Would you sell it or are the tears a sorry no.
141
« on: May 18, 2016, 07:10:10 PM »
Got this far with the engine today after coating, everything working OK.  Found that I couldn't bottom the bolts for the starter motor and then that it was full of what looked like some kind of blasting solids. Disaster because it was supposed to be soda blasted or if not then all oilways blocked off. Stupidity on my part because it'll have to come apart again to make sure that it's really clean. A real lesson learned there.
142
« on: May 18, 2016, 05:05:19 PM »
Have shed loads in stock but, I am in Lincolnshire 
Thanks Trigger. I'll wait until they come from DS now as I'm held up on other things.
What do you have in the way of spares?
The list is long and varied 
tigger do you have any of the oil control valves between the top casing and barrels on a CB500 4, look like dowel pins. The part number is 12238-323-000. Disaster as I threw my pair away in a badly damaged upper crankcase
143
« on: May 17, 2016, 05:44:26 PM »
It's all together and seems OK. Is there a simple way of checking that the gears work?
144
« on: May 17, 2016, 09:24:51 AM »
Take the primary shaft out and build everything in the top half fitting the primary shaft through AFTER case assembly
Ow!! The primary shaft is in and it was a very hard job getting it in through the starter clutch, etc., I don't fancy taking it out again but I'll have a look. I followed the manual
145
« on: May 16, 2016, 09:37:01 PM »
A question.
You have the crankshaft, primary drive shaft and kick start mechanism fitted in the lower case and the main and counter shaft plus shift drum and forks in the upper case. Everything seems fine and it seems to change gear OK. I have all of the fasteners ready to bolt up the case halves: there's no gasket between the cases so I'll need to paint the surfaces with, say, Hondabond and bolt them up.
The question is, would a careful person have a "cold" match up to make sure that everything functions correctly with cases assembled and partially tightened. It's a bit of a pain but could show up an assembly mistake before putting all of the sealant on.
146
« on: May 14, 2016, 07:57:36 AM »
Have shed loads in stock but, I am in Lincolnshire
Thanks Trigger. I'll wait until they come from DS now as I'm held up on other things. What do you have in the way of spares?
147
« on: May 13, 2016, 12:17:39 PM »
I've managed to lose one and am just ready to put the valves back in. does anybody have one? They seem to be very rare.
Please call me on 07725072273, I can collect if in the SE
Edit, David Silver have them although they don't list them so I've ordered some but I'm still looking too.
CMSNL have them but E14 postage charge for one Collet
148
« on: May 09, 2016, 08:59:01 PM »
Hi James, Hi-Spec Coatings in Coolham on the A272 toward Billinghurst.
Ha!! yes, forgot all about the copper gasket but they needed soda blasting.
149
« on: May 09, 2016, 06:46:26 PM »
All of the bits that need to be restored have now been done and I start assembly tomorrow. Wrt painting of the engine cases, covers, head, barrels, etc., I finally went for different temperature grades of Cerakote which is a baked on ceramic and even better than the two pack epoxy painting that I had done on other restorations. Just a few examples below  Cylinder head from below, valves cut at triple angle.  And from above  Barrels now finally fitting the casings  Crankcases from the breakers looking a lot better than the original bike's cracked ones.
150
« on: April 06, 2016, 12:11:19 PM »
I had the same problem with every phillips head screw on the bike.
Therein lies the problem, they're not Phillips screws, they're JIS! Using a Phillips driver will cause it to 'cam out' and slip if any serious torque is applied.
This page explains, with a diagram.
http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/jis-japanese-industrial-standard/view-all-products.html
After taking all the allen screws out of my bike and going back to the OEM silver chocolate ones, buying JIS screwdrivers was essential, I found a reasonably priced pair on eBay.
Yes understood but I call them all Phillips screws. I had the right bits for the impact drivers and screw drivers so rounding wasn't a problem only getting enough torque on them to move them. My bike and engine were seriously corroded though.
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