This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - masonmart
151
« on: April 06, 2016, 09:43:04 AM »
I had the same problem with every phillips head screw on the bike. In the end I removed every screw with an impact driver, they're invaluable. Also get a set of drivers with a metal hexagon at the end opposite the blade. These you can impact the screw with to break the galling and get a lot more torque on with a spanner or socket.
152
« on: April 04, 2016, 06:18:42 PM »
Hi , I'm looking for some help , I recently purchased my first project bike which is a 1977 Honda cb750 k6 . Im located in East Sussex and was hoping to exchange people's knowledge and advise for unlimited cups of tea and bacon sandwiches , any help would be great please message me if you can help , thanks in advance will
I'm in West Sussex (Horsham) and can offer what help I can.
153
« on: April 04, 2016, 03:15:25 PM »
I'm doing a renovation on a 500 or 550 that at some time has had a big bore kit of unknown origin fitted. As mentioned, the existing cases had been crash damaged and I've bought some good ones from a broker to replace them. So far so good - except the cylinders don't fit into the crankcases, not far off but not close enough to set the barrels on to the cases without major down force. Not only that but the liners don't seem to be well aligned in the block when checked with a straight edge. After a lot of work I can slide the liners into the cases but not with the dowels in place so more work needed. When I check the liners they should fit eventually but there's some ovality.
Can anybody help me with whether the 500 and 550 cases and liners before boring should be the same? Did the 600cc kits need larger liners? Is this tight fit normal for these engines?
Hate to mix questions on one thread but I'd like to take out the cylinder studs before blasting and painting the cases. The breaker had tried and sheared one and getting it out was really, really difficult. Is there any handy way other than masses of heat, penetrating oil and force?
154
« on: April 03, 2016, 07:37:43 PM »
Last picture's a bit like how my 550 looked back in the day but while Dave is a great hands on engineer his bikes tended to be well back on style compared to Rickmans and Sealeys for example. I think I'll do the tank and seat differently and not have a half fairing.
155
« on: March 31, 2016, 07:48:38 PM »
Have the bike disassembled, cleaned and everything that can be is either in for coating or already done. The wheels are in for rebuilding, the original Borrani rims were perfect under the cement and dust and I'm going for black hubs with SS spokes and polished rims for good contrast. Very lucky that I decided to strip down the engine because it had obviously at one time been crashed on the points side with damage to the engine bolt lugs but, despite heavy welding, still with hairline cracks through some of the cylinder stud holes. One cylinder hadn't been running neither. I've found some crank cases and the intent now is to get the engine, barrels and head all coated with Cerakote which is a very high quality ceramic coating, the finished product is very good: already had the down pipes done in satin black to contrast with the silver engine. I've had the speedo, tacho and carbs all restored, all of the valve seats recut and am only short of a tank now, some clip ons with risers and a few little bits like a cylinder stud. As soon as I get the crank cases back I can start reassembling the engine and that's the critical path now. Will post some pictures when it starts to look like a bike or if anything of interest crops up. I've been really glad of workshop space and the use of machinery and tools especially impact drivers which were needed on just about everything. Especially glad of the advice from DD and Russell, I've tried not to bother them as they are always busy and they take the Mickey out of me mercilessly 
156
« on: March 14, 2016, 08:43:21 PM »
Many thanks
157
« on: March 14, 2016, 10:35:17 AM »
I'm talking bollox sorry, the crank journals are diameter 2 and for C2 and B2 I need Black and Brown respectively not Brown and Green.
The part number for the black bearings is 13315-323-000 but so far I can't see any anywhere.
158
« on: March 11, 2016, 12:15:39 PM »
The crankcase codes are CBBBC as stamped on the rear of the crank cases and the crankshaft journals are all 1.2995" dia (32.99mm) so I need 2 B (brown) bearings and 3 C (green) bearings. I can see the bearings at DS but the manual says not to use the letters stamped on the cases although these would seem to align with main bearing codes and the number of letters matches up.
I guess that the only way is to measure the main bearing slots in the crankcase and use the measured value rather than that stamped on the cases?
159
« on: March 01, 2016, 09:10:54 AM »
I live just down the road from his place in Rusper and have one of his Tritons too.
He's a fiery character for sure but a really nice bloke under that exterior and a wonderful hands on engineer. His ilk are fast disappearing unfortunately and biking will be much diminished for it
I'll put up some photos when I start doing the assembly.
160
« on: February 29, 2016, 08:59:33 PM »
Recently set off on a very interesting journey to restore a very sorry looking Dresda 550. which is a 550 engine in a lightweight Dresda racing frame. Interesting history in that it was exported to Spain around 1978 but was impounded by customs and left outside or in various sheds since then. Obviously very low mileage but interestingly it has a 600 cc kit fitted. I'm very lucky in that DD is letting me use an area of his workshop to do it and if I can do it well then it should be a really nice bike as it will be tiny and much lighter than the stock 550 and it'll be true cafe racer style.
This is a very good site btw and I'm sure that I'll benefit from membership, if I can be of help in return then I'd be very glad. I have some before pictures but at the moment the bike is in its component parts waiting painting, zinc coating and chroming. I'm waiting on the bottom crank case half to be blasted and painted so that I can start assembling the bottom end but it was damaged in a few areas and needed welding and grinding to shape.
I'm just retired and luckily so as I'm having to put in a lot of hours which would have made the job very expensive. My character makes me not good at work like this because I'm driven to get on with it but good restorations need a lot of patience. I did a trade apprenticeship at ICI in the 60s but done nothing hands on since mainly paying for others to do work for me so I'm having to learn as I go especially in separating things that don't want to be because of corrosion.
161
« on: February 23, 2016, 06:42:49 PM »
The CB550 has a code on the crankcase (A,B,C) based on main bearing support ID measurement and a mark on the crank (1,2) based on crank journal dia and from these codes any one of 4 main bearings (brown, black, green, yellow) can be selected to fit well.
None of the usual outlets like CMSNL or Dave Silver have all 4 bearings.
If you damage a crankcase and wish to replace it say with one from a breaker but the existing main bearings aren't compatible with the casing ID's is there anything that can be done if you can't buy the correct main ?
Are there any other outlets that may make Honda main bearings now?
162
« on: February 22, 2016, 06:01:01 PM »
Hi, my name is Martin and I'm new to this forum. I've previously owned but recently sold a CB750 and CB400 but have just bought a Dresda 550 fitted with a big bore 600cc kit which I'm restoring. It was in very sorry condition having been impounded by foreign customs when near new and being kept outside for many years. The plus points are that it's done very few miles and hopefully it'll produce a quite special bike when finished. It uses a tiny lightweight Dresda frame with CB550 electrics, hubs, brakes, hydraulics, etc. Everything has gone well so far but having taken the engine apart for blasting and painting I found that the crank cases have been welded in a few places and pretty badly so I'm looking for replacements or even an engine that I can rebuild from the best bits.
163
« on: February 22, 2016, 05:51:39 PM »
If you want to do a quality job rather than a short term one then the only way to do it is to strip down the engine completely and blast it. Soda blasting has the advantage of not possibly leaving grit in passageways etc., but bead blasting is the best quality finish for painting or for just taking bare alloy of the barrel and head down to a lovely matt finish without paint. It's a pain but you have to be very careful about closing of any oilways to avoid getting grit in. Blind threaded holes can be closed off with what is usually a 6mm bolt. Paint the exterior with Ford Silver Fox two-pack epoxy paint and the finish is beautiful and hard wearing.
|
Show Posts