Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Anorak's Corner => Topic started by: AshimotoK0 on January 12, 2024, 08:07:01 AM
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Anyone used one of the cheapo sub £100 tyre changers/bead breakers that are around now. or recommend anything sub £200?
I have loads of tyres to fit plus I need to remove the new tyres from my CB250 RS wheels (alloy rims) , re-plate the spokes and then refit the tyres which will cost me at least £50 at the very limited number of bike shops in this area that are capable of fitting motorbike tyres.
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Put some links up Ash and i will comment from engine drivers point of view.
We are off to deepest cornwall for 2 weeks tomorrow so net access limited to when in cottage so patchy answers
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Put some links up Ash and i will comment from engine drivers point of view.
We are off to deepest cornwall for 2 weeks tomorrow so net access limited to when in cottage so patchy answers
https://www.motea.uk/motorcycle-tyre-changer-12-21-set-with-wheel-balancer-constands-md4k-a095200-0?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOa4Z1k5wlWFHbvcrbDzP-RUSVmpNf9n6jyxcTm3Dbg7lBbZUMzHxABoCCqgQAvD_BwE
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126071821955
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=motorcycle+tyre+changer&_sacat=0&_sop=15
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1412652767?iid=265131085204#UserReviews
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Last link looks competent Ash, they've even got the push "tang" on the right way round for photo, unlike first link :) that's for beed breaking.
I learnt years ago from owner of Greenford tyres, and a friend who worked there too.
Putting them on, concentrate on getting the beed into the wheel well as you go round the tyre putting it on, else you'll never get over the frustration.
Also, use silicone grease (they use it for mould release agent in manufacture, silicone that is) put it on with your fingers, both up inside the back of beed within tyre cavity, and the outside you can see....literally just the finest coating you can rub on it to give a sheen with no excess. They'll go on without any levers at all done correctly.
Tubed type, stand tyre vertically, place rim into tyre at ground, push hard and it'll just pull over the top beed to get that done. Then push the open been over the valve hole to expose it, push tube valve in and screw on nut to prevent it sliding back out, just the first few threads only. Now pull the loose beed back over the valve area to let you push tube in all way round.
Then push valve stem into tyre (nut will stop it) and start beed off there with tube out of way....Work round beed until you meet opposite valve location to finish. I just use my knees to hold that beed into the wheel well as you work around, you can usually get the rest on with bicycle size levers like this.
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Just out of curiosity Nigel, what’s the largest tyre you’d tackle given you make it sound so easy? I seem to remember (just) managing my 400F, but would baulk at the rear wheel of a ‘750.
Maybe the fault was my penchant for Johnson’s Baby Talc versus silicon grease…?
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I did manage to put my CB500K0 tyres on last year manually (with Ben Powell on here helping me too) , without using any levers but it was a real struggle. I am looking for a rig which will take all of the huffing and puffing out of the task. The 250 RS has alloy rims too, which is a new one for me. We did try the ty-wrap method advocated on Youtube but it didn't really work for us.
The tyres are all on my bigger bikes now, so the biggest I need to do will be 350-18's. All of my rims are genuine old school DID (i.e no horrid side scripting) , so I can't afford to damage them
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My tyre fitting days ended several decades ago respect to those who can do their own.
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From the pics all the ebay links are just bead breakers and a stand so you dont hane to grovvle on floor.
The first, most expensive one, looks to have the jaws to fit the tyre as well, i would ask to see instructions on use before buying, the expensive looks like it has a ballancing stand as well, kawasaki did very good plastic rim protectors, similar to ebay item 385762216748 but sturdier.
Hope that helps mate
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I had to use a hacksaw a couple of weeks ago to get the 30 year old tyres off the rat bike and that was hard work as the tyre closes in on the blade the deeper the cut. I wouldn't even consider putting a tyre on these days, I used to put my speedway bike tyres on but they were pliable.
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My tyre fitting days ended several decades ago respect to those who can do their own.
I have my 28 year old muscle man Ben Powell to assist.
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The Rabaconda set is praised by touring riders...
https://de.rabaconda.com/products/street-bike-tire-changer
dunno if it works well with spoke wheels though...
(got me a pneumatic tire machine + the adapters for MC wheels... 2x ST1100, 1x NT700, 1x ER-5 + the rides of a befriended couple ST1300, NC750, a 70ies Z750, and the Burgman of the "in-law" dad... but I'll have to see how well it'll work with the CB500/4 wheels in the future...)
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After pinching a tube years ago I resorted to using my heels to put tyres on and it worked fine, dancing around the wheel, or using my hands with an old fashioned round bin as a stand.
However last year putting new tyres on my 750 I failed, the back tyre was fine but I had to take my front wheel to a bike shop I just could not do it anymore.
Time catches up with us all.
Cheers
Dennis
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It aint catching up mate its galloping past, i did 2 sets of 500 wheels in a day 2 years ago, never again
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Just out of curiosity Nigel, what’s the largest tyre you’d tackle given you make it sound so easy? I seem to remember (just) managing my 400F, but would baulk at the rear wheel of a ‘750.
Maybe the fault was my penchant for Johnson’s Baby Talc versus silicon grease…?
All sizes, though I've owned only up to 180x17 largest rear size. I too found it particularly difficult prior to lucid instruction all those years ago, but with that and logical approach, it's not so much a problem task.
It's not for everyone certainly. It is though, emphatically, mind (and technique) over muscle to work around them. The lubrication of back side of beed, particularly on final face of fitment really makes a difference.
A bike wheel you need to support the rim/spokes such that it doesn't touch the surface below with the tyre wall already fitted, this helps with space to work the front side as you go round with it moving the fitted wall away from work site. the bespoke rigs do this also.
If you wanted to make simple implement, then four 4X2 blocks fixed to a sheet of ply in a circle orientation would do it. Put first side on by hand with tyre standing up, then lay wheel down on blocks, start the beed on by hand then kneel on that part at approx 7 and 5 o'clock position to hold the beed down into wheel well. This is the most important bit, that placement of the beed you're working on fully into the wheel well as it gives all the clearance needed to get the opposite side of beed over by working with reasonable leverage......remember that backside beed lubricant ? This it where it really matters. They usually go on with ease now.
If you make the plywood jig, it has the big advantage of staying still with you and or any helper standing on it to not chase the whole lot around a room, or garden :)
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It aint catching up mate its galloping past, i did 2 sets of 500 wheels in a day 2 years ago, never again
TWO sets of wheels in ONE day :o!!! If tyre changing becomes an Olympic sport Bryan you need to enter, you'd win gold 🥇
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I managed my xs650 tyres with rim protectors and just two tyre levers, easy? No but very much doable when you work out a technique and lube up
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I must be doing Ok then as I still do my own and carry a pair of levers under the seat in case of punctures.
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Queenies had one similar to this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303896564509?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1_uBhNKaBTL-Wbt8h7etiSA98&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=303896564509&targetid=1816181027979&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=&campaignid=19090194174&mkgroupid=147009364227&rlsatarget=pla-1816181027979&abcId=9303860&merchantid=119137374&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOZndLhHvd0aSPPeBe4WwaQAX7YBDkbrjqVTsLRYrYQDAwkZFZV4rxxoCRHEQAvD_BwE
It's bloody expensive but you could do multiple changes in the same day, no effort at all. It also didn't tend to damage rims unless you were clumsy.
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Queenies had one similar to this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303896564509?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1_uBhNKaBTL-Wbt8h7etiSA98&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=303896564509&targetid=1816181027979&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=&campaignid=19090194174&mkgroupid=147009364227&rlsatarget=pla-1816181027979&abcId=9303860&merchantid=119137374&gclid=CjwKCAiA44OtBhAOEiwAj4gpOZndLhHvd0aSPPeBe4WwaQAX7YBDkbrjqVTsLRYrYQDAwkZFZV4rxxoCRHEQAvD_BwE
It's bloody expensive but you could do multiple changes in the same day, no effort at all. It also didn't tend to damage rims unless you were clumsy.
Mine has a round table (Zipper ZI-RMM95) so it won't bang your thighs while working...
At € 950,- incl shipment I just couldn't resist... bike-wheel adapters make the job a breeze...
Sure, if you've only one ride to look after, you'd go to a dealer for the (maybe?) annual tire replacement...
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Associated information, but it's the same method really.
https://youtu.be/b8IiRrgdEZg?si=NROvKn3UFYdqI0AJ
He's using window cleaner, but the silicone method works better and doesn't put any detergent salts onto your rims.
Recently I've fitted car tyre, had a leaking rim from beed corrosion on old car, wanted to remove, refinish rim and refit original tyre prior to having the whole set changed (car doesn't have a spare) so made improvised beed breaker, demounted tyre, sorted rim and refitted....marked in reference to balance....to let me then get the whole set done when arranged.
Only thing I'd say is that it's easier with two of you at that final fit to hold beed into well while pushing the last bit over on opposite side. Same for bikes in tbat respect. Almost embarrassing in it's requirement for lack of force by using silicone grease.
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Associated information, but it's the same method really.
https://youtu.be/b8IiRrgdEZg?si=NROvKn3UFYdqI0AJ
He's using window cleaner, but the silicone method works better and doesn't put any detergent salts onto your rims.
Recently I've fitted car tyre, had a leaking rim from beed corrosion on old car, wanted to remove, refinish rim and refit original tyre prior to having the whole set changed (car doesn't have a spare) so made improvised beed breaker, demounted tyre, sorted rim and refitted....marked in reference to balance....to let me then get the whole set done when arranged.
Only thing I'd say is that it's easier with two of you at that final fit to hold beed into well while pushing the last bit over on opposite side. Same for bikes in tbat respect. Almost embarrassing in it's requirement for lack of force by using silicone grease.
Any tips for getting two new tyres fitted to alloy rims (CB250RS) without damaging the rims Nigel?
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Initially the silicone on inside and outside of beed as prerequisite.
Stand tyre in front of you, orientation as if you were riding the bike, left hand on left beed at top. Now sit wheel into bottom of tyre from right and push down to get the bottom of beed situated into wheel well fully, then continue pulling the left beed over the top of wheel rim, remember hold the wheel downward to keep that beed in place in the well.
Just try this first to gauge effort.
Then lay wheel down onto support blocks such that it doesn't rock on its centre and gives space for the already installed sidewall to flex over that lower rim to give you more working space for the side you are going to work on to easily go into wheel well. Support the rim not the tyre in other words.
Push the first part onto rim nearest to you so it drops into wheel well, just kneeling on it at 7 and 5 o'clock will usually push it in there. Your knees are now going to stay there to keep that section always dropped into wheel well.
If you had big ben :) there, he could probably walk the rest round with his feet, like in tbat video.
Failing that and with levers, I use about 8 inch long 2 inch with flat with round end and make sure they have no burrs on end, along with those channel shape plastic rim protectors.
Work the 5 o'clock side round to about 2 o'clock, it'll likely go with just hands here, slide a rim protector round to it and put a lever in place about 2 o'clock to now stop this backing out what you've just put in. That silicone is slippery :) ideally you need another hand person just to hold this, but can be done with right knee.possibly.
Now you need to start working from the 7 o'clock location, slide a lever and rim protector as far round as it'll go, you're just trying to nibble the smallest section of tyre possible as it'll go over real easy then, hold that lever once that arc is complete and do the same again with another one.
When it gets to about 10 o'clock you'll feel it holding the beed under your knees further down into the well, by 11 o'clock it'll be wanting to go over centre and stay on rim usually a push with palm of hand at 12 o'clock will just encourage it to pop of rim. Or that third hand person put their foot on it go get it to go.
Sounds far more involved within worded description than reality. It really should use very litte force though, much more choreography if my description is able to be followed.