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Messages - Erwin83
16
« on: August 22, 2021, 10:54:44 PM »
Indeed a sort of anodyzed looking grey with a touch of green. Probably weathered black.
17
« on: August 22, 2021, 09:01:03 PM »
Found it! Apparently, I have forgotten to tighten the bolt in the primary shaft.  The bolt came loose and almost came out of the clutch cover... Big oops... I've alread found a new clutch cover, so the plan now is to flush the oil system twice (new oil and filter) to get rid of any aluminium shavings. Good idea?
18
« on: August 22, 2021, 05:28:19 PM »
Another little step. Something seems to run a litle bit more heavy than normal. But what exactly?
I opened the tappet cover and the generator cover, also removed the sparkplugs.
I can turn the rotor (and therefore crankshaft) a little bit by hand (probaby the slack in the primary chain). When I turn the rotor, the camshaft immediately also starts moving, so there is no exces slack in the cam-chain.
More importantly: rotating this small distance is very easy (2 fingers). So I am lead to believe the resistance is not caused by the crankshaft bearings (camshaft looks fine too). I also don't see any glitter in the oil collected under the camshaft.
So, the resistance might be caused somewhere down the line, but what?
There are large bearings for the primary shaft. Those don't need any force to install and seem fairly oversized and extremely well lubricated.
Maybe the needle bearing of the primary shaft?
I did use a rubber mallet to massage the primary axle through the bearing and holder.. Have I destroyed that? How to diagnose this without splitting the cases again, is that even possible?
19
« on: August 22, 2021, 05:21:41 PM »
There is a tendency to fear the worst especially after a substantial amount of dismantling has been done. Fear for the worst hope for the best dilemma syndrome.
Yes, I always "shit 7 colors" (a dutch saying meaning you feel scared) when I run the bike after each rebuild.
20
« on: August 22, 2021, 04:28:15 PM »
Seems the battery was all dry. I'm not cheering (not at all), but I'm going to try with a better battery. Not sure how the sudden stall could be caused by a bad battery, but it's an easy check.
21
« on: August 22, 2021, 11:47:53 AM »
Unfortunately, the first start after closing the cases and putting everything back together did not go exactly as planned. In order of events:
- After putting fresh oil in, I have primed the oil system (sparkplugs out) by turning the crank from the right side of the engine.
- Oil light went out, so I should have pressure
- Spark plugs in
- Gave it a shot with the startermotor: everything sounds fine
- Added some more oil to bring the level up to max
- Opened the fuel tap, start: immediately sprung to life, no weird noises. Adjusted the choke so I had a nice stable 2000 rpm to let her warm up gently
- Again, no weird noises, even the valve train sounded a lot less noisy (with the new adjuster)
- After what must have been around 30-40 seconds, there was a zzzzZZPP sound and the engine stopped.
I feared the worst, so put the bike back on the lift, she cooled down a bit and I tried cranking it over from the crank nut. Seems pretty normal. Gave it a go on the starter motor, also sounded pretty normal (even wanted to fire, but I didn't give it any choke or throttle)
I don't know what is a wise next step now, in order to understand what happened. I "only" opened and shut the cases, and replaced all oil seals. So logically I would think maybe a crank bearing gave up (maybe it didn't like the heat from the welding, although the entire case was pre-heated and clamped down on a fixing table to avoid warping).
But a zzzZZZPPP sounds more like a piston to me (?). I would think knocking or clunking is how a bearing sounds....
All advice is welcome.
22
« on: August 17, 2021, 10:29:39 AM »
Took some time, but finally got my package from David Silver, with most importantly the re-engineered camchain tensoiner:
23
« on: August 13, 2021, 07:14:05 PM »
Loving the Guzzi!  
Thanks! Me too. It's such a usable bike, I even took it to Germany for a weekend chasing my mates' Multistrada's through the twinties. It has the vintage caferacer feeling, with modern performance and reliability. It's for sale nonetheless.. I want to build another Guzzi next winter.
24
« on: August 12, 2021, 01:35:14 PM »
Well, that is indeed a risk I am accepting. There are a lot of engine mounting positions on a small area, 4 on the bottom casing half, and 3 on the top casing half.
Apart from undamaged casings being very rare (a lot of 400's have this issue), the casings are also a match with eachother, and with the crankshaft. So changing out the casing means:
- Full engine teardown (vs. having the top-end still in place now).
- Finding the right size and changing out the crankshaft bearings.
25
« on: August 12, 2021, 08:36:00 AM »
2 great looking bikes!
Thanks! Progress: Picked up the welded case last evening and checked for leaks with pressured air. All seems well now. Due to the location of the hairline crack, we decided to weld-up the engine mount completely. There was no way a welding cup was going to get into the crevice where the nut lives, and the crack was all the way at the bottom of it. Even chopping off the engine mount, weld the crack, weld the engine mount back on, would render the engine mount useless, as the nut would not be able to fit back in. So I'll be mounting the engine from 5 instead of 6 engine mounts from now on. Priority is with beating the oil leak. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] In the meantime, I've replaced all oil seals: both on the crank, the big one behind the sprocket, and the oil-cup next to the gearbox, and replaced the 3 O-rings of the oil galeries. Now waiting for Fedex to bring the parts from David Silvers, and I can start closing the cases again.
26
« on: August 11, 2021, 09:44:58 AM »
I've had the OEM and aftermarket gasket (from a gasket kit) side by side, and there is a clear difference in size (thickness)...
Therefore, the fairly expensive OEM gasket seems to be worth the investment.
27
« on: August 11, 2021, 09:34:35 AM »
Just for the sake of archive:
I tried 2 different types of Alu Epoxy:
- Quiksteel Alu (a 2K sausage which is a thicker material)
- 2K alu glue (a more liquid epoxy, which worked like a charm on a casting gall in the cooling system on another bike)
Both ended up not working.
My conclusion is that these repairs are great to get you home, but will not last long.
I have the cases split now and found a welder specialized in welding cast aluminium.
28
« on: August 11, 2021, 09:22:20 AM »
Time for an update, it's been too long.
The yellow CB350f 'tracker' was sold last year to a very enthusiastic new owner. The proceeds have been put forward to build a Moto Guzzi caferacer last winter, which I am riding this season, even taking it on longer multi-day trips. So this is how my garage looks like now (and there is a Transalp 650 too):
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Finishing the Guzzi gave me time to grow new spirits for working on the black CB, which has a oil leak from a hairline-crack in the lower engine casing. I discovered this after rebuilding the top-end (big bore, etc). Quite disappointing.
I tried 2 different kinds of Alu-epoxy to solve (or even just control) the oil leak, but to no success.
So last weeks, I have taken the jump to finally split the cases and look for a welder.
That's where I am now: the welder should be finished in the coming days, and a pile of parts is supposed to arrive as well, all of the "now we're here" category, such as the reworked tensioner (DS), oil seals, etc.
First time opening the cases, and I am happy to report that the internals are looking great, so definitely worth the trouble.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
29
« on: January 04, 2021, 01:29:26 PM »
I got the correct plugs and caps from here:
(Attachment Link)
https://www.gsparkplug.com/ignition/spark-plugs
There are two different pattern plug-caps used, 2 90° and two at about 45°
To my experience, the straight caps work better for Cyl 2 and 3. I get a weird bend in the plugwire when using an angled cap. Those are SD05F (instead of the XD05F). Cyl 1 and 4 take the VD05F.
30
« on: October 24, 2020, 08:16:29 AM »
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