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Messages - Erwin83
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46
« on: September 21, 2020, 10:20:21 AM »
I could be wrong but the 350 and 400 have a different number of the copper washers fitted, 12 copper for the 350, 10 copper and 2 Dowty type on the 400. It may depend on which fiché / parts book you are looking at possibly.
From experience: You're absolutely right. Took me some time to realize this, as the dowty seals will come out looking much like a normal washer, if it's old enough.
47
« on: September 18, 2020, 07:11:49 AM »
Thanks! 
48
« on: September 16, 2020, 04:45:03 PM »
Got the new silencer installed  A silencer that actually silences! Unbelievable for <40 GBP ( https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/short-daytona-36mm-44mm.html) That means that this project is visually finished. Only some technical stuff to fix or improve: - Carb jetting (main 90 now, seems rich) and need a synch. - oil leak from the left side of the engine. Looks to be the O-ring of the oil gallery plug. - Drive chain - Longer jiffy (anyone know a plug-and-play option that is 1-2 inch longer? - replace the R/R unit
49
« on: September 14, 2020, 01:33:31 PM »
Did a little test: I had another old fashioned regulator laying around. So I unplugged the black and white from the new R/R combo, but let the 5 pin connector installed (using the R/R combo purely as a rectifier) and connected the old regulator.
Presto! I have charging power now. So the R/R combo must have some problem inside with the rectifier.
Bummer.
Is there any harm in riding with a R/R combo with the regulator unplugged, and using an old fashioned regulator instead?
I have no idea of the inner workings of a combined R/R.
50
« on: September 14, 2020, 11:46:01 AM »
Updates!
The black CB466f is smoke free since I changed the headgasket. I'm still treating here carefully as I will be doing a head re-torque after 500km of gentle riding.
Synched the carbs, and she's running like a sewing machine. Albeit a noisy one, with those 4 open pipes.
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The yellow one is also getting close to being road-worthy. I had 2 test rides now, leading to altering the carbs (needle 1 position lower, I had it at max rich).
I also found that I have no battery charging during riding, there is no power to the white wire out of the reg-rec, which I guess means that my generator is not magnetized and therefore not working at all. It's a cheap reg-rec combo, I figure it's a DOA.
I also ordered a new silencer, so visually the bike is going to be finished soon.
51
« on: August 06, 2020, 10:35:11 AM »
Not finished, but it's getting there:
52
« on: August 03, 2020, 09:51:22 PM »
Finally some progress on the yellow 350f, after I broke two oil rings while trying to install the cylinders, I had to order new rings from cruzinimage and stuff like that sets you back a couple of weeks. This time I was more careful and the engine is now coming together. Those 400 headers look so sexy 
53
« on: July 09, 2020, 11:51:58 AM »
Well, this was truly only a head gasket replacement, done in a single evening. So everything was a bit greasy, but the nuts themselves... not so much I would say. However there is definitely oil on the copper washers.
54
« on: July 09, 2020, 07:15:49 AM »
I just don’t get why you would torque the bolts in the “correct order” but to the wrong spec? If you’re going to use a torque wrench surely you need to check what value to set it to....otherwise why bother, you might just as well use any old spanner.... 
You never make mistakes? I only have a workshop manual of a 350f, so for the 400 I searched and found a torque spec of 29 Nm. Must have been the wrong bike or the wrong source. 
55
« on: July 08, 2020, 10:45:13 PM »
Agree with above regarding torque max, I've got 30nm as 22.16 ft lb which is quite significantly over spec.
But feel that they should turn as you experience (although mostly that's not generally tried) I think most would if attempted.
The reason for using the washers they have is partly to seal them, but also that the torque to turn the nut against a washer is lower than that to tighten the nut on the threads else you'd be measuring friction torque at the washer nut interface instead of between the two threads.
As the nut is tightened it's threads compress, making the thread pitch smaller. But the stud threads are being stretched longer, the mismatch as it accumulates causes the torque required to keep turning it to rise. That final figure is arranged to give the correct tensile load on the stud structure.
But as Bryan says, raise the torqued level too high and you'll risk permanently stretching the stud.
Probably ok to do as you plan to run and reset, it'll let you know one way or another.
Thanks. This makes a lot of sense. I know of (one-time use) head bolts that are stretched to a certain lenght by torqueing and turning them, to get that specific load on the head. The studs obviously work the same, but I’ve never actually seen it like this. By the way, going from 25 Nm to 30 Nm is not even 1/8 of a turn of the nut. The ‘stretching’ of the stud is therefore pretty minimal, should that come into play. Anyways, the bike started right up this evening. I let it idle a bit and took her for a little ride. Smoke and burned oil smell seems to be gone.
56
« on: July 08, 2020, 10:36:38 PM »
If the studs had gone past their elastic point they would keep on stretching till they bfoke. The torsional load is what you are really talking about and they are acting a bit like 450 twin valve torsion bars. Did you put oil/lube under the washers/nuts if so you shouldnt have as book doesnt say so and it will alter the torque
I haven’t lubed anything, but the area is a bit greasy with engine oil. A torsion bar is exactly what it seems like.
57
« on: July 08, 2020, 07:49:16 PM »
By the way, the spec I found was 16 ftlb for the 350, 18 ftlb for the 400f
So I’m still a little high, but not as extreme.
I guess I’ll leave it for now, let the bike run a couple heat cycles and than do the trick with quarter turn loose and retorque.
58
« on: July 08, 2020, 07:35:05 PM »
16 ftlb is the spec, so I overshot it a bit with 30Nm. Still the flexibility is weird to me.
Nope, studs have not been removed, hence standard stuff.
I have the correct washers 10 thick copper ones, and 2 with the rubber insert.
59
« on: July 08, 2020, 07:08:06 PM »
For lack of another word...
My CB466f turned quite smokey recently. I determined that the head nuts (especially the 4 surrounding cil2, the one smoking) were not torqued down anymore. So either they came loose, or the head came down during break in, and I was too late re-torqueing them.
I replaced the head gasket yesterday and found something that I find strange:
I torqued all nuts in proper order to 20 Nm, next to 25 Nm, finally to 30 Nm.
Now, even after applying 30 Nm, I can still twist the nuts a little if I apply less than 30 Nm of force. You can see the nut AND the stud itself turn a little. They will come back to the original position however. Hence the “elasticity”: the stud twists a little.
This happens on pretty much all head nuts.
Is it normal?
60
« on: May 12, 2020, 08:30:37 PM »
Update of the "yellow one". Seat done, headlight done. Basically just the engine left to do and button up.
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