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Messages - Erwin83
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61
« on: May 09, 2020, 10:41:10 PM »
If you don't have electronic ignition, but still run old points, check if the ignition timing mechanism moves freely.
62
« on: May 06, 2020, 03:17:31 PM »
You can take the honda part number and google that.
27mm x 2,4mm is the outcome it seems.
63
« on: April 23, 2020, 08:56:09 PM »
64
« on: April 16, 2020, 11:33:43 AM »
Just checked resistance again. I'm getting 1200-1450 Ohms on each.  They're not marked R. The nice thing of these is, the middle two are straight model plug caps, which fit much better than the XD05F.. They are quite old probably... Then again, I'm trying to use as much of my stock as possible. Maybe I'll pass on these and get a new set, just to be sure. Another couple euro's down the project's black hole...
65
« on: April 16, 2020, 09:40:27 AM »
Hi Ian
Ok, but... do the 1kOhm caps count as resistor caps in your experience?
I thought the prescribed resistor caps are 5kOhm, hence my preliminary conclusion these 1k version need more Ohms elsewhere...
66
« on: April 16, 2020, 08:45:27 AM »
Hi. Looking for a refreshment of my memory.
I solved a spark issue with my CB400f a couple of years ago by making the right combo of caps and plugs. I'd like to not make this mistake again, but I lost the 'rule'.
Current situation on the project CB350f:
Planning to use normal ignition (interuptor) system, no electronics.
I have the standard coils (4kOhm?) and a set of ngk spark plug caps that all have a measured resistance of around 1kOhm (which I pulled off a CB400f a couple years ago).
Am I right to conclude that in this case I will need to choose the spark plugs with resistance? So the BP8RS and not the D8EA?
67
« on: April 01, 2020, 04:26:06 PM »
I fitted 2 of these kits recently and I recognize the information on the interwebz that it's indeed a bit 'awkward' in the top, especially with the outer bearing protruding out of the frame quite a bit.
Nevertheless, by using common sense during installation (not all washers / rings / caps are needed) I was still able to fit the top nut with enough windings to keep things safe (3+ windings easily).
I wonder if there is any difference in thread length or position of the thread on the stem, between de 350f and the 400f.
350f is certainly not as tight as I was lead to believe before tackling this job...
68
« on: April 01, 2020, 07:59:23 AM »
Needs some 2K, but all color is on 
69
« on: March 31, 2020, 08:54:55 AM »
My other project is also getting along nicely:
70
« on: March 18, 2020, 10:49:55 AM »
According to the Highway Code...
249
All vehicles MUST display parking lights when parked on a road or a lay-by on a road with a speed limit greater than 30 mph (48 km/h).
Not that anyone does, but that's why there's a parking light position on the lock.
I understand that, but according to Dutch law, this is not mandatory for motorcycles. Even a brake light is only mandatory if the motorbike is homologated after 1975 . But don't worry, I'll definately be keeping that...
71
« on: March 18, 2020, 09:53:56 AM »
Looking at that diagram in position 1 the br and br/white are connected together so that the idiot lights iluminate when the rear light is on. In pos 2 the rear light is connected to the battery.
Legaly you need a horn and on mot, if it needs one, it has to be audible above engine noise
I'm in The Netherlands, we don't have MOT here on motorcycles.  Apart from that, obviously there are strict rules for any vehicle on the road, and if not compliant you can be stopped and the bike's paperwork suspended until proven legal again, so of course it makes sense to follow the rules. Luckily, this motorbike is old enough (1973) to be exempt from blinkers (law says it's mandatory only from 1997 (!) onward apparently). Horn I don't know, I don't think I ever had a working horn on my CB's though.
72
« on: March 18, 2020, 07:57:17 AM »
That's exactly my question.
I don't quite see/understand the functionality of the br / br-w wire being switched, other than create a circuit for the parking light in position 2.
My conclusion would be that I can reduce the loom further and connect br / br-w together for normal functionality of the lights in position 1 of the key.
(BTW I started with a 400/4 loom, and plucked all 'unneeded' wires out to create a 350f loom, and took indicator wiring out, took horn out, basically it would be just a basic ignition and charging system and normal lights and braking lights...)
73
« on: March 17, 2020, 10:47:28 PM »
I'm currently cleaning up my loom, just wondering about this.
The ignition switch of the 350f (under tank) has 4 wires.
Ignition off: no connections.
Ignition on: 2 pairs of 2 wires are connected.
Park: 1 pair of 2 wires is connected.
In the 'on' position, what is the functionality of the 'second' switching connection. Br - Br/w?
This circuit seems to just connect 2 positives of instrument lights and rear light...
Should I choose to do away with the "park" functionality, could I just go to a 2 wire ignition switch and hard-wire the br - br/w connection?
75
« on: March 08, 2020, 04:42:10 PM »
Thanks everyone. “Understated cafe style”, if I would have had a goal at the start of the project(s), this would have been a nice statement to put it. I like that, thanks for the compliment.
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