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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: November 28, 2023, 05:22:30 PM »
Interesting to see how you've done it there Ted. Also made me think, it's funny how looking at something causes your mind to dig up something related but not commonly associated with motorcycle etc Often ski base repairs are carried out by melting new plastic into damaged areas, referenced as "P-Tex" usually and available for hot gun applications https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115878830369 and looking remarkably close in material type to flexible bike plastics. Could be of use in this case, very routine in maintaining ski or snowboard to correct damage on bases.
2
« on: November 28, 2023, 10:35:17 AM »
"can I ask a silly maybe question but if I put 12V right to the coils will that make them fire the spark plugs ? "
You can fire a coil by, establishing a + supply to it first, this enables it to collect power but only when you have the earth connected too.
All conventional coils are like this......then disconnecting the earth (points opening in old money ) will cause the stored energy to exit via the HT lead to give you spark.
Don't back connect anything to coils with them in system to avoid risk. Just bare coils with constant + then touch the earth to fill, remove to spark.
3
« on: November 28, 2023, 08:45:20 AM »
I can see your point Roy in regard to in situ spec. Usually (although that's making a assumption  ) the voltage control is looking at too high a voltage that may risk damage to the new boxes. The lower threshold seems to be one of the advantage with current state electronics,, in that they work really well even at lower than ideal voltage because of component efficiency. Interesting to hear what the supplier may contribute to this. If the earth to coils is switching though, thats all it has to do to get coil spark from that side of things.
4
« on: November 28, 2023, 08:09:44 AM »
They only need a small shift to work I think with newer components, rather than a bigger spike we've seen before and usually with magnets in plastic rotor.
They do seem to be switching though, evidenced by the led flip flopping, so signal is there to be amplified and trip the solid state earth modulation.
Maybe check the circuit to earth (on the coil earth routes out of the boxes) to see if that is switching, then meaning there's problem on coil side of system.
5
« on: November 27, 2023, 11:04:49 PM »
Is that the reason why the F2 suffered with premature valve guide wear Nigel? I assume if the valve was higher in the head this would have an effect on the cam/rocker to valve stem geometry compared the earlier models unless of course Honda accounted for this in the design of the F2 head?
Yes, the geometry didn't change as far as I understand it. The rocker arc is compromised in its contact with the valve to give slightly more sideways loading through it's initial travel, coupled with raised spring rate for higher rpm too. Tgey deleted some of the oil drainage holes from head too, this to keep more oil around the valve gear prior to going back down into sump. Honda realised this with development of endurance race 16 valve head onto CB 750 bottom end with the first "RCB" motor in 1976, I think. Then development of the road going twin cam motor.
6
« on: November 27, 2023, 10:37:43 PM »
Guessing at "Hall effect" from proximity of ferrous presence of cam peak.
Interestingly they can only be fitted in one direction (there's an arrow on the face, facing the cam lobe) and he says they won't work backwards.
7
« on: November 27, 2023, 10:20:38 PM »
Yes, just uses the std cam and shows cleaning, lubrication of the advance mech etc in the yt clip.
With the leds changing status it would appear to be switching the circuit as required as they just indicate status visually to help setup.
8
« on: November 27, 2023, 10:05:46 PM »
Originally like that Dave, bigger valves than std for the F2 as well....which pushed them back into the head such that they don't touch in the centre. Needs higher dome piston to maintain compression ratio to go with it.
9
« on: November 27, 2023, 07:29:26 PM »
It is a bit weird to have no spark from the two separate units as Roy states.
The units (same as points) are only switching the earth wire to the coil to make that spark. If the led is changing it should be doing that switch at least. It would still spark wherever the timing is set.
You can, with power to the coils, get them to spark by disconnecting THEIR earth from the ignition pack, then hold it against an earth scource, when you pull it off the earth they should produce a spark like that.
10
« on: November 27, 2023, 03:35:56 PM »
Yes, as Roy in that a check for definite volt + supply is there, also a check of earth competency as well.
Seems quite simple to fit Mo. Have you got the leds to show there's power and switching going on ?
11
« on: November 27, 2023, 08:41:45 AM »
Very interested to see your build progress, I always liked the F2 and a friend still has his originally bought one.
Head work looks good, any more pictures of it from combustion side too ?
12
« on: November 27, 2023, 08:39:03 AM »
Interesting project Ash, and bit of a find to get those nos bits.
13
« on: November 27, 2023, 08:34:15 AM »
Worth an overview of wiring to electronic unit to discuss ?
Ordinarily you'd have power to unit switched by ignition, earth competency to allow the coils to switch, trigger wire to sensors to control that switching (to earth) that goes to unit to toggle switching in time with cam etc. Power to coils and their earth routed to the unit to be switched up and down by the circuit control within that.
Is there wiring diagram with unit ?
14
« on: November 26, 2023, 04:11:30 PM »
Worthwhile marking on the stator a true TDC mark as it's installed now...using marker pen / paint.
Then mark a F mark at static on the rotor to give (std setting, 14 btdc ? ) to be able to examine the trigger positions reference to this.
At least you'll see what you've got initially to then make decisions about what's wrong.
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