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Messages - Oddjob
1
« on: November 26, 2023, 01:55:29 AM »
I've used those dimpled titanium bolts a lot on my 1300 and whilst they are fine if the head sits horizontally, like it would at the front engine hangers, when the head is vertical, like the head is flat side up, I found that dimple filled with water, that dried with the heat of the engine and discoloured the bolt head quite quickly, I ended up filling the dimple with paint to stop it.
2
« on: November 25, 2023, 08:51:40 PM »
TBH Dom they look much better with 14mm heads, the socket fitting better is an added bonus, the slots in the crankcase are 17mm though.
3
« on: November 25, 2023, 06:23:28 PM »
4
« on: November 25, 2023, 06:19:45 PM »
Use some thread lock if it worries you. So long as the tang is smaller than the slot, so not a tight fit it should be ok.
6
« on: November 25, 2023, 12:45:38 PM »
Ball bearing in the clutch adjuster Mick?
7
« on: November 25, 2023, 12:33:59 PM »
8
« on: November 25, 2023, 03:07:03 AM »
Just remembered I have a nos bracket, mint condition but it’s not cheap. Think CMS want around £350 for one last time I checked.
The bracket is now 877 euros 😧😧
9
« on: November 25, 2023, 02:23:46 AM »
Ted had the same problem, bush was broken in half. Might be repairable but it was cheaper to just find another bracket tbh
10
« on: November 24, 2023, 07:05:03 PM »
Looks to be just a normal 7" headlight with a H4 bulb fitted. I've had a Cibie Z beam headlight fitted since the late 70s, that's a H4 bulb type but with a special lens to help focus the beam pattern better. So long as the electrical system is in good working order it should be fine. I personally would fit an LED bulb in there instead of the H4 to reduce the electrical draw.
11
« on: November 24, 2023, 04:25:11 PM »
Probably stating the obvious but is the new main jet stamped with the same size as the original.
Replacement brassware is often not as good as the Honda original.
I'd mirror that comment but the main jet still looks original, the float valve and idle jet however don't. Aftermarket float jets and seat are well known not to seal as good as original brassware, try connecting a source of petrol to the inlet pipe and see if it actually cuts the petrol off when the floats set at 24mm.
12
« on: November 24, 2023, 03:49:00 PM »
I fail to see how oil isn't coming out of the shaft and onto the clutch plates, IF oil is at the bung, the transfer towers are free and clear and the shaft itself is free and clear why no oil ? Only answer I can think of is that the bung is blocking the gallery somehow. When the transfer tower part is removed and the bung is in place does oil come out of the hole where the bung is forcing it to go? Another possibility, when you removed the transfer tower plate was there an oring around the hole where the oil would come out? if that was missing it's possible all the oil being pushed through would just leak into the gear area close by, especially if the plate isn't exactly flat, should be one of these fitted around that hole https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k2-four-england_model14363/o-ring-5x24_91301283000/Might be my imagination but there does seem to be a very clear track leading to that gear area from the oil exit hole.
13
« on: November 24, 2023, 03:19:22 PM »
Good points by Ken and Ted, I wasn't worried about thread pitch as the engine mounting bolts are all going onto their own nuts but I hadn't considered this with the lower yoke pinch bolts. Are they standard 1.5mm pitch on the m10 bolts?
I might have to have a rethink on the lower engine mounts.
Just been through all this. IIRC Kay fast and middletons don’t have t some of the bolts in the correct pitch and I ended up getting them from china on ebay( bottom yoke maybe) what I have found is that by grinding off the lettering , polishing up with the brush wheels and bench polisher the heads can quite easily end up with a mirror finish.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354792939265?var=624112326971
The bottom yoke pinch bolt is 10 x 35mm Dave. it's a 1.25 pitch. Exactly what Dave Middletons lists on this page https://www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk/32908-metric-fine-bolts-setscrews the big difference is that Dave Middletons has the correct head size at 14mm, that and the price I suppose, plus it's not a set bolt, meaning unless he's listed it wrong it will only be part threaded like the original, unlike the chinese copies. A 17mm head size in that location looks wrong IMO, they tend to overhang the yoke itself. The original bolt only used a spring washer under the head, I find doing that can scrape the paint off as it spins before it digs in and compresses, I'd advise using a flat washer under the spring as well, if needed increase the length to 40mm as there is usually 5mm of unused thread on most of the Honda bolts. You could trim a couple of mm off if needed. Forgot to mention, the top yoke pinch bolts on the 500 are easy to find, the ones used on the 550 are not as they are 7mm not 8mm, those are some of the only original bolts left on my bike. Even sourced the 3 small crosshead screws used on the idiot panel in stainless.
14
« on: November 24, 2023, 03:09:22 PM »
You tried to see if there is anything inside the gearbox shaft itself?
15
« on: November 24, 2023, 12:02:06 AM »
Little tip Johnny, try reversing the coils so the leads come out of the back instead of the front, leave the new leads long until you fit them so you can trim them down in situ. It could be that you need to swap the coil brackets over as well when you do this, can't remember now, it's been a while. The benefits are less arcing as the wind doesn't drive the rain/water into the coil openings where the leads exit and they route across the top of the engine so look much tidier than hanging down above the exhausts, the 550 even had HT lead clamps fitted on the breather cover to take them away from getting burnt on the exhausts. These were mine done that way and they are very tidy looking 
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