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Topics - Oddjob

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CB500/550 / New carb linkage rods
« on: November 18, 2023, 04:32:09 PM »
I've got Max, who used to be a member on here, to make me a stainless steel linkage rod for the 500/550F carbs. The original ones as we all know tend to rust and pit for fun. In the past I've had a few hard chromed and that works well but whilst the first ones I had done cost me about £25 each the last 2 cost me £65 each. I spotted some stainless steel one being made in the USA a few months ago but after contacting the seller to enquire about the cost of making me 6 the first thing he did was increase the price, that didn't sit well with me so I declined that offer.

As I said I then contacted Max to see if he could make a few, with the idea being to fit them in carbs I'll be restoring and selling and also in case any other members wanted one. With Max no longer being on the site I thought I'd see about becoming his go between, he sells them to me and I sell them onwards to members. I may also be doing the 400 clutch basket rubbers as well in case you were wondering, he's just waiting on some more Viton to arrive to make some more.

Anyway, Max sent me a pic yesterday of the new rod and the original I'd sent to him for him to copy. I'll test the new one to see how it fits etc and if it's ok I'll order a few more but maybe after Xmas to defray the cost during what is an expensive season for most

Here's how they look.

If you're interested in one let me know so I know how many to order made. Cost will be approx £45 plus P&P onwards, say £2.

Misc / Open / Time to sell a few of my NOS spares?
« on: November 16, 2023, 11:54:35 PM »
I've been thinking for a while now that when the price of shell bearings starts to go around £30 a shell I'll cash in and sell all of mine, got a notification from Ebay today for some Green mains shells, clicked on it and £30 a shell, for shells I might add that are still available from DS for around £17. Even DS is starting to struggle finding shells these days, no blacks, no yellows, browns are special order but a few greens by the look of it.

I have a bucket load of black main shells, a fair few yellows and some browns and greens although as my engine takes browns and greens I doubt I'll sell those just yet until I work out of I need them or not.

I also have quite a few conrod shells as well, probably around £4500 in total at £30 a shell.

Should I wait and cash in later or sell now?

Misc / Open / Cruzinimage pistons and rings
« on: November 09, 2023, 01:13:05 AM »
Just wondering if anyone has ever checked or compared the profile of a Cruzinimage piston against a genuine Honda one.

I'm reading some really negative stuff about aftermarket pistons and especially about the quality of Cruzinimage  piston rings, notoriously the 350 four ones which are reportedly very soft and wear extremely quickly. Reports I may add that come from a very experienced mechanic and certified Honda/Kawasaki mechanic trainer, not the sort of person to shout wolf you'd image.

I've seen an image where 2 pistons are joined on the same gudgeon pin, so they sit side by side and it's impossible to get them misaligned as that's exactly where they'd sit on the conrod, the rings were in different positions, the crowns didn't align or even look the same, Hondas are normally flat and the aftermarket was really domed, this would seriously affect the compression.

Another image of Cruzinimage rings after less than 500 miles, both a before and after picture showing ring end gap, it had doubled in less than 500 miles, which is worrying as a lot of members have fitted these kits.

Not trying to scare anyone here, just wondering IF anyone had done a comparison, especially of the piston. Just curious to see how they compare.

Been doing a bit of work on these recently. The tap fitted to the early 750 and the 500, bowl underneath with metal strainer and the dual outlets etc.

After taking apart a few I've found serious problems with the seals inside. Most likely due to age but also due I think to the ethanol in fuel these days. The 2 orings were brittle and flat on all of them, the one which seals the tap against the tank and the one fitted between the brass strainer and the bowl. Simple enough fix, just fit some new ones in Viton.

However the special doughnut seal behind the fuel tap lever (16955-268-020) is another problem. These are quite expensive to replace, CMS at £5.74 doesn't sound so bad but it's the postage that kills that one or DS at £7.24 plus whatever postage DS deems appropriate, most likely £2.95 which makes it £10.78. That's not cheap but the problem I think is that they are old parts and are most likely made of nitrile so the same problem will rear it head again over time. Namely it's reaction to ethanol.

All the ones I removed were pretty bad, really stiff, hard to even bend, all of them had shrunk in thickness. I measured a new seal against and old and the old had really thinned out, around 3.3mm when new to 2.6mm when old. This seal relies on compression to seal, the 2 screws next to the lever compress the lever against the seal, saying that, why no grease or lube is used is beyond me, it's no wonder the lever can be stiff to move and it also explains why these wear down so fast. If you study a new seal you'll see the 4 holes in it are raised up, they all have a lip around them, on an old seal that lip is gone, worn away. As soon as that happens I suspect petrol starts to leak past the seal and into the carbs, it fails to shut off the petrol as it should. Maybe remove the pipes on yours and see if they are dripping when the taps closed.

So my solution was to try and make the doughnut out of Viton or FKM as it's known, that has proved harder than expected. I can make them but the thickness of the sheet of Viton I bought at 4mm means it's too thick for the tap to close up again. So I need to work out how to thin it down whilst still keeping it flat so it seals, I've just ordered some 3mm Viton to see if that would seal, I'll have to make one and see.

So just a word of warning, you may think your tap is closed and find it's actually not. Which could cause problems with your carbs if the fuel starts to sit there long enough. If it doesn't leak now, it's possible it may do in the next year or so.

Member 4 Sales / Restored CB400 Rotor cover badge 11632-333-010
« on: October 22, 2023, 03:16:10 PM »
I have completely restored this badge after it suffered a small amount of damage when the bike fell over.

It has been polished and the paintwork redone. Painted exactly like a new one. If your rotor cover is already polished this will suit it perfectly, if not it will at least make the existing rotor cover look better.

DS charging £90 for a new one. £60 inc P&P.

Misc / Open / Anyone know what happened to Max (AMX92)?
« on: October 16, 2023, 02:02:46 AM »
All of a sudden he seems to have gone. Anyone know any reason why that should be?

Max in case you weren't aware was the maker of stainless steel parts for the SOHC bikes we all love.

He was interested in doing a little project for me that would have also benefitted a lot of other members but he profile is no longer active.

If it's private could you PM me and let me know, not asking for the reason but just an explanation.

Member 4 Sales / CB550F New wiring loom made by BigAl on here.
« on: September 22, 2023, 07:17:59 PM »
This loom is for the CB550F1/F2. Never fitted, not tampered with. Labelled as made by Alans Electrics. Sold by Al for £265 or £295 on Ebay. For sale here for £200 inc P&P

Member 4 Sales / Some CB400F oil seals
« on: September 22, 2023, 07:00:19 PM »
Got these in a job lot of oil seals and found they weren't as advertised as belonging to the CB500/550 models.

6 seals in total, 4 are in genuine Honda packaging, unopened, the other 2 are in DS bags with handwritten writing, so not sure if these are genuine or copies. If I suspect copies I'll say so. Prices are without P&P, which will be £1 no matter how many you buy.

91206-286-013. Cb400 gearshift shaft seal. Genuine. £5
91207-333-000 Cb400 Mainshaft blanking seal. Genuine £6
91202-KFL-841 Cb400 Clutch actuating arm seal. Genuine £6
91204-259-003 Cb400 Kickstart shaft seal. Genuine £3
91201-324-023 Cb400 Tacho drive seal. Suspect genuine. £2
91205-333-015 Cb400 Countershaft Sprocket seal. Suspect copy. £10

CB500/550 / Latest acquisition for the CB500K
« on: August 14, 2023, 06:53:04 PM »
Just bought these.

Solid stainless steel, highly polished. Meant for another bike but took a chance and bought them and they fit perfectly, except maybe the width is very slightly bigger, will find out if it affects them fitting soon but I test fitted them in my spare swinging arm which has no paint on and they are just ever so slightly proud but a coat of paint may cure that.

Misc / Open / Reclaiming an old damaged CB550F2/K3 rotor cover
« on: August 10, 2023, 02:50:56 PM »
Wasn't sure where to put this TBH, thought maybe start a project thread as this won't be the first casing I'll be trying to salvage but it will do here at present.

So here's the idea. I wanted to see if stuff that we think is maybe beyond saving can actually be restored to near to new. Not saying new or better than new, but maybe close to new.

The idea came about when I spotted an old box sitting on the top of one of my cupboards in the garage, I was looking for something else and thought that maybe I'll put it in the box, even though TBH I couldn't remember what was in the box So I got it down and when I opened it there were 2 500/550 oil pans or sumps in the bottom of the box, fully restored, all clean and ready to be ceramic coated. However on top of the them was an old CB550 rotor cover, I have a CB500 so I wouldn't be using one of these, main difference of course is that the 500 has a removable plate covering the field coil fixing screws, the 550 hasn't got this and has them exposed with the Honda logo embossed into the alloy. A little research showed that these covers aren't readily available and if you can find a NOS one it's not far off £200, so fixing one can save you a lot of money.

The cover was damaged, clearly the bike it was on had slid down the road, first on the lower edge and then when it had almost stopped onto it's side, the lower edge and the upper part where the logo is were both damaged, I'll let you decide how badly you think it's damaged, personally I'd class that as light to medium but make up your own mind. The rest of the casing was encrusted with really bad crud, not so much corrosion as baked on road dirt that was really hard. However this coating can hide a multitude of damage and it's not uncommon to find severe corrosion underneath.

Here's what I started with.

Close up of the lower edge damage. Notice how the Made In Japan engraving has been smeared across, some of the metal removed was actually forced down into the letters and proved a problem later on.

And the upper surface damage.

I'll do a separate post for each step to keep it tidy.

CB500/550 / Cutoff denim jacket and patches
« on: July 28, 2023, 05:01:07 PM »
I found my old cutoff in the wardrobe the other day, had badges on there that would be rare now, stuff long gone, like an Ogri badge or a Bike magazine badge, plus old club membership badges etc. A lot of these were either sew on or iron on. The sew on ones still look great, not so much the iron on ones. My favourite bike has always been the 500-4 and there are 4 iron badges from the 70s depicting this bike, they say something like Honda 500 four, they were made of felt with printed letters IIRC, when the jacket got washed the felt contracted and distorted the badge, the edge lifted and you could see the glue underneath still attached to the denim, not a great look.

The cutoff doesn't fit me anymore, ok just by itself but still tight around the shoulders but over a leather jacket it's a no go. So I've decided to buy another cutoff and transfer all my old badges, those that can be transferred that is, the 500 ones won't make it and for some reason that kinda upset me. So I decided to see if they were still available to buy and no they are not. Bummer.

With that in mind I looked around and frankly the badges that are around are pretty bad. So I thought of having some made, properly made, sew on, with proper background not felt, proper embroidery etc. The question was what design should I go for, same as the old one or something else. I decided to go for the side panel badge, it's sort of unique, got colour in there and anyone seeing it knows what bike you like or own. So I send a pic of the badge to a specialist firm and they are going to do a mock up of how the badge will look. I struggled with the background colour TBH, the edge of the badge is black so I thought black background would be out, not enough contrast. However after discussing it with the firm they say the background would be black twill, the edge of the badge in black embroidery and then the rest in chrome and orange like the badge itself. May go for the edges of the badge in gold. They'll be 150 x 50mm so not huge but approx the same size as the badge.

It's the cost of them that concerns me however, minimum order is for 10 but if you increase it to 25 the cost halves per badge and for 50 it's a quarter of the cost.

So I thought I'd see if anyone would be interested in buying these badges when they are made, I'll buy them anyway, I'm not relying on uptake here, I can put any excess on Ebay I suppose.

So, any thoughts? except of course how sad I am for thinking of wearing my cutoff again, you don't need to say it, I know. I'm reliving my youth and I make no apologies for doing that. Roo, shut up before you say anything.

Site Feedback / FAQ / How to... / Topics going missing
« on: July 26, 2023, 04:07:00 PM »
Is it just me or are topics I'm getting notifications for going missing? 2 days ago I got one about a petrol cap vent, clicked on the link, not there. Today I got one which was a topic I looked at yesterday, might even have answered on it and clicked the link and it's gone again. If it's been deleted for some reason can't we get a notification saying that instead of not there son.

Member 4 Sales / O-Ring sale CB500/550
« on: July 14, 2023, 08:48:12 PM »
As promised in my measuring oring thread I have managed to start supplying orings for certain parts of the CB500K and CB550F/K. Please check with me first if your not sure if the rings will fit your particular bike.

The range is still fairly small but it will expand as time goes by. I need to buy in bulk in order to get prices as low as possible and the initial outlay is well over £1000. As the new rings start to arrive I'll expand the list.

If the rings come into contact with modern petrol they will be Viton™ rings, if they don't they'll be Nitrile.

Oil Pump kit, 5 rings included. The first batch though will have 6 rings. There will be 1 x Oil Pressure relief valve 91315-044-000,  2 x Dowel rings 91301-268-020, 1 x oil pump to crankcase 91302-250-010, 2 x Oil Pump cover rings (these are not listed by Honda) this is because it's this ring I'm still assessing, I have 2 members testing which is best. However I'll provide both and you can decide which you prefer until I get some feedback either way on which works the best. All the orings are the exact size required. I've taken pics of genuine rings fitted out of a full gasket kit and my rings and they are identical. I can safely say this is the best kit out there. Cost £7 inc P&P. DS want £15.83 plus P&P for the 4 rings that are available.

I also can do the 4 oil gallery orings, these are the 3 plugs which fit in the lower crankcase and the one which is fitted to the plug in the main oil gallery inside the generator cover. So 3 x 91315-044-000 and 1 x 91319-300-000. Cost £5 inc P&P. DS wants £16.06 plus P&P for these 4 rings.

I also have available.

Camshaft end cover cap rings, 91319-323-000. These are in Viton™. 40p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set

Dipstick oring 91354-702-000 30p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set

Starter motor end cap, 91309-300-000 40p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set

Starter Motor internal oring, 91206-286-158 40p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set

CB550F/K clutch adjuster bolt, fitted low down on the clutch casing. 91301-040-000 40p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set.

Tacho Drive and oil restrictor orings at base of barrel 91309-035-000 40p each plus P&P or free postage if ordered with any set

Coming soon will be tappet cover rings and inlet manifold rings, 91302-001-020, the EXACT size as specified by Honda. These have to be specially made to order.

Also a full carb set of orings in Viton™. Again specially made to order and the exact size needed. I've already tested the float bowl ring and this one stays inside the groove without needing glue, unlike any others I've fitted in the past.

Misc / Open / Veritable bargains
« on: June 24, 2023, 03:21:52 AM »
There's taking the piss and then there's this.

If you're tempted I've got one you can have for £10 less than that AND I'll throw in free postage.

Got 3 of these, £10 less each and you can have one with pleasure. I'll even throw in a free oring.

£52 for a single shell, I just sold a load of these, damn I wish I'd know they were worth so much. I still have some left though, lets say £40 a shell, bargain eh?

£64 a shell, got some of these as well. Damn I'm sitting on a fortune and yellows aren't even as rare as blacks and I've got over a hundred of those.

£117 for a piece of twisted metal. I have one of these as well, yours for £100.

Speechless, I don't have one of these but for that price I'll sell you mine off the bike.

I've thrown these away in the past. Oh for a time machine

HOW MUCH!!!!!!

You can buy a complete tensioner for that much.

Misc / Open / Measuring O-Rings
« on: June 17, 2023, 03:57:19 PM »
I was looking for something else yesterday and found 2 old oil pumps for the 500/550 lying in the bottom of a huge box, I decided on a whim to restore them, both were complete except one has one of the small collars missing that have the bottom O-Rings around, will probably find one of those somewhere. So I took them apart and cleaned them both up, must say they cleaned up very nicely. However the O-Rings will need replacing so I decided I'd see if I can find them without having to buy genuine Honda. After recently seeing a tappet cover O-Ring provided by an Ebay seller which claimed to be a perfect replacement for a genuine Honda O-Ring and finding it so bad I couldn't trust using it, I decided this time to source my own. The problem though is that Honda are kinda sparse with the info for the oil pump, the pressure relief valve (both of which were stuck BTW, that's both oil pumps and 3 filter bolts now where the relief valves are stuck, that could be from standing so long, they've been in that box since before 1980 I reckon) is the only one listed with it's full info, 19.4 x 2.8mm. Honda state the big O-Ring is 47mm but no section is listed. Same for the 2 collar O-Rings, just 14mm is listed, no section. The O-Ring under the cap isn't even listed as being available and it isn't included even in a full genuine Honda gasket kit so that will require some thought.

I looked online on advise on how to measure an O-Ring, looked easy enough but nope that didn't work. The 47mm O-Ring now measures 52mm, the 19.4mm is the closest to being correct at 20mm, the 14mm is now 15mm. The other problem is, if the diameter has changed so has the section, being squashed distorts them over time. I measured them all and wrote down what I thought they were, then I remembered having a genuine bottom end set in the loft, so that came out and I measured a brand new non distorted O-Ring and they were quite different. None of the measurements I'd carefully taken were correct, which means the one not even listed will have to be carefully thought about. It's now a loose fit on the top of the pump, it fits inside the cap just fine but there doesn't seem to be any compression taking place when the cap is fitted with the old O-Ring, I reckon it must have been a tightish fit around the flange on the top of the oil pump when new, it must be slightly taller than the flange as well or it wouldn't seal too well.

So now I have some on order, I've done a few choices for the cap O-Ring, I'll see which one I feel is best.

One word of caution on buying none genuine Honda O-Rings, first off they are all nitrile rings (AFAIK) and unless the ring comes into contact with petrol that should be just fine to keep using. Viton is usually harder to compress, not a huge difference TBH, a normal ring is 70 and Viton tends to be 75 or 80. A number of the genuine Honda rings are also really odd sizes, that can normally mean they aren't available to buy from a UK manufacturer, the tappet cover is one, which is also the same ring as the inlet manifold rubbers, on a tappet cover is not absolutely vital to get a perfect seal but on an inlet manifold that's another matter. The one I was given to fit was so bad I ended up robbing an old one from a tappet cover and fitting the new one there instead. You cannot buy these rings off the shelf, you have to have them made specially and the minimum order is normally 500. It's the same for the pressure relief valve cap on the oil pump, it's such an odd size they don't make it anymore. Incidentally it's also the same ring that fitted to the 3 oil gallery bungs in the crankcase, that's why there are 4 of them in the gasket kit. You'd need to order 500 specially to get a perfect fit, that can be expensive.

I'm in contact with a large UK manufacturer of O-Rings about getting some rings specially made for me,  tappet covers and inlet manifolds will be one, the relief valve and oil gallery plugs will be another if I feel my replacement doesn't fit the bill well enough.

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