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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: Today at 09:09:11 AM »
On my 400 & 500 I found that when the engine is in place with the hope that the carbs will not have to come off again fitting the carbs then building back works well. The battery box is a puzzle to fit into the frame, having the rear front half mudguard out just makes life easier with less collateral damage to your knuckles & patience. 😁
Good advice Ted The carbs installation ... emphasise that the cleaning of idle circuits, their passageway and jets is so, so very important to them running correctly and staying on there once you get running. Many times on here and the wider biking Internet world, not enough importance is given to this element, with resulting running issues that are obviously frustrating. It further seems that putting them in ultrasonic cleaning routine just doesn't guarantee that they are effectively operational. Absolutely imperative in these carbs, playing such importance in how the engine will run, also massive contribution to that Honda 4 cylinder smoothness that people rebuilding their bikes have in mind on completion of project. They, the idle circuit, control so much and far more than many appreciate.
2
« on: Today at 09:00:24 AM »
Good work Tezzer Tel, as it starts to look more bike shaped it feels that all the hard prep work is paying off.
3
« on: October 22, 2024, 08:07:21 AM »
A little difficult to describe remotely, but the snag comes usually from the tappet screw face that touches the valve tip "catching" on that tip as it comes down into alignment with the case/cover closing. Diligence in looking at all of the valves at that location to see that it's not happening should let you gently close the cover by going around equally with the bolts to evenly bring the two surface together. If that makes sense 
4
« on: October 21, 2024, 07:45:33 PM »
I went ahead without the washer/spacer and put the rocker cover on.
Even with a;; the tappet adjustment screws fully out the cover didn't sit flat on the cylinder head, and when I rotated the engine, it moved, rocking :)up and down a bit on a L/R axis.
Hand tightening the bolts, just until they touched stopped this rocking, but I was hoping for some reassurance, before tightening everything, that this was normal.
You need to be careful that nothing has snagged when the rocker cover is placed on, some using elastic bands to hold rockers in better positioning to facilitate. I don't think there's any point that will have ALL the cam lobes pointed downwards away from rockers , which means as you tighten the bolts down to close, then you'll be compressing at least some of the valve springs. This will make it sit up until fully tightened.
5
« on: October 16, 2024, 03:01:41 PM »
Now I am sort of giving myself a kick up the arse here. I had a nice run out yesterday on the k3 but quickly realised only 3 cylinders were firing. This is the second time this has happened to me this year on this bike. I got back home and checked cyl 2 and the plug was just sooted up then checked the rest and they were all sooty. Then the penny dropped that I had replaced the pilots with 45’s instead of 42’s but had made no compensating adjustment to mixer screws. As most of my running around here is in the lower to mid range rpm it stands to reason that it is getting slightly too much fuel! The reason I changed the pilots was to improve cold starting which it did do. So today I will make an adjustment to the carbs and take for another run, since it is a nice day.
Some thoughts on original posting/question and to look at it from different perspective. The change to pilot Jets 42 to 45 gives a plus 7% shift in the idle circuit flow potential. If that's paired with the main jet as being roughly half the size of main, then at idle to approximately half throttle operation will give from 7 diminishing to 3.5% additional fuelling in that range. Ultimately still 2% at full throttle too. Effectively its richer right across the board by a diminishing percentage as rpm /throttle is increased. The experienced "sooty plugs" evidence that this is in place. To just raise mixture at base of idle, you'd be better in considering std pilot jet size and evaluation of more fuel set on adjustment screw, say 1/2 turn out further than the existing. This should just bring up the initial mixture fuellling level at "closed " throttle position, while leaving general running mixture alone.
6
« on: October 15, 2024, 02:12:12 PM »
OK, found some instructions for installation on t-web Undo the centre small nut, take off the big nut on end of crank ..... now where is the red spot located on the aluminium pulse trigger wheel ? That spot should be aligned with the "1 & 4" marks of the Honda advance and retard mech. If that's opposite (next to 1&2) then it'll do what it's doing now, that's firing the setup at 180 degree away from intended operation. I was viewing the manual/instructions for install on the SOHC USA site for reference.
7
« on: October 15, 2024, 09:14:27 AM »
An interesting project Ted, looking forward to seeing it progress. Isn't the rocker cover fitted and secured by two sleeve bolts on these with rubber seals ? Much like a A series BMC type but with that T fitment instead of traditional cork 
8
« on: October 15, 2024, 09:00:10 AM »
I don’t think the 3 holding bolts are evenly spaced, so maybe if you rotate the pcb board and try the 3 possible positions it could fit you may find a position where the 3 bolts are at the end of the slots with the board in the fully clockwise position. This may then be the correct location for the board and you will be able to time it. Just a guess really but maybe worth a try.
The board only fits in one position so that the hole in it allows you to view the static timing mark cast into the crankcase. If it fires (the light changes status here) on the opposite cylinder marking of rotor, then one of three things is wrong. 1) the cam rotor is fitted backwards, as noted in post above. It could already have been installed like that for points, then the two coil wires transposed to correct it on the original installation of this bike. You'd not know as it would run without problem. 2) the board is wrong in its two firing pickup being swapped from manufacturer. Unlikely, but possible. 3)the instructions are written incorrectly with regard to the light showing on or off at the cylinder 1&4 position indicated marks on rotor. Not unknown, have had a ignition product from secondary manufacturer before where they'd transposed the two wiring colours in instruction to make it incorrect, but had everyone involved scratching their head.
9
« on: October 15, 2024, 08:49:50 AM »
I'm lining it up against the second mark (5 degrees).
It's the two little white boxes marked onto the mech picture that you need to check. They are the orientation of the cam timing lobe that controls when it fires. It can be installed 180 degree opposite to that which is correct, then give this fault.
10
« on: October 14, 2024, 01:38:51 PM »
Yes checked that. A&R plate correctly mounted on the crank, new ignition rotor is marked with a red dot which is aligned to the TF14 mark on the plate.
This would flip the mechanical triggering, any possibility of swapping it by 180 degree to test that way ? If not, it should run if you swap the coil connections to the wrong way round. It'll have two errors but be corrected to ignite as it should. Not necessarily a solution, but that would prove the error to then understand why that's so.
11
« on: October 14, 2024, 01:13:57 PM »
Presumably, the rotating "collar" mounted onto advance and retard mech has to be assembled and installed ..... that's where you'd be looking for a problem and especially as you can get a trigger effect 180 degree out.
Pull the electronics and dismantle the a&r assembly to see what you've got there.
12
« on: October 14, 2024, 12:32:52 PM »
Can you get a picture up of it ?
There's usually not be much wrong, just spotting what's what to re orientate it correctly.
13
« on: October 14, 2024, 12:17:27 PM »
Unsure of fitment details on this, does it use the original advance and retard mech ?
If so, that can be fitted 180 degree out to give this type effect.
14
« on: October 14, 2024, 11:57:26 AM »
OK, so the unit is sensitive to triggering as it should be, that's good.
With it installed, if you rotate the crankshaft, does it then change the LED status ? and if it does, where on the timing marks is it changing ?
Sounds like something simple could be out of place to trigger at wrong point, doesn't sound much but just need to find it.
15
« on: October 14, 2024, 11:48:11 AM »
If you remove the plate from bike is it still lighting the LED ?
In other words, with it remote from any triggering input, does it stay lit ?
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