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Messages - JonnyHonda
1
« on: September 09, 2006, 12:08:57 PM »
Hi guys, been having a few problems, if you feel inclined just reply to this post.
Many Thanks
Regards and ride safe
John
2
« on: October 26, 2005, 11:12:40 AM »
SammyB is right, they are just studs, here is one I took out earlier, I used two nuts locked together, but I don't think you'll have enough thread. They shouldn't be that tight, but if you have a problem gently warm the head and use either a stud extractor or a pair of mole grips.  [JP] wrote:haaa....
So I can take those studs out of there?!
I tought they were welded in the cylinder head...humm...I'm more happy now than I was yesterday...pfffff....
I'm going to try to take them out tonight when I get home...
So..it means that it has 2 threads?one that goes into the cylinder head and the other one where the nut goes on top?
sorry for my english I hope you can understand it....
cheers,
JP
3
« on: October 26, 2005, 12:03:16 AM »
Hhas anyone else noticed the increase in parts for sale on ebay? have all the summer riders given up and scrapped thier projects.
4
« on: October 18, 2005, 08:48:26 AM »
Hi all, have you seen the gallery, there are two cool CB750 F's in there, with dual front disc conversions. Has anyone actually done the conversion themselves, and how? :blink: Also would this affect the insurance as being \"Modified\" 
5
« on: September 28, 2005, 07:19:37 AM »
The steering on my CB feels very rough and in places \"notchy\", is it a big job to replace the bearings. and does any one know the one I'll need.
6
« on: September 09, 2005, 03:25:25 PM »
:S Darkarse?, oh well.... :huh: I have recently seen a link on the site to http://www.cwylde.co.uk who do the a tank lining compound, but the also do a \"Classic Black Coach Enamel\" for frames. Won't be the smooth matt of the original but at
7
« on: September 08, 2005, 05:53:38 PM »
I don't blame you for not wanting to take the engine out, it's a real git to get out and put back without help - weighs a ton
The old \"Mr Muscle - Orange\" Cleaner is pretty inert, I've used it on very part of a motorcycle including plastics and paint work with no problems. It is very similar to Autoglym, but cheaper.
Most of the casings on the F were a Dull cast finish, with the excption of the
Cam cover,
Magneto cover,
Front sprocket cover,
Gear selector cover
and the clutch cover.
The point cover was chrome as was the clutch adjuster cover.
All of these covers can be cleaned with a good aluminum polish like \"autosol\".
8
« on: September 02, 2005, 12:05:44 PM »
Depends what your after: look, performance, noise or keeping it stock. I have an '76 F with a Motad 4-1, nice balance sounds sweet and 4-1 stays in line with the original. You can buy direct from them in the UK http://www.motad.co.uk
9
« on: August 18, 2005, 08:12:24 AM »
I remember seeing to badges on www.cmsnl.com, but I not sure what year, I think most of their stuff is '76 onwards. Their site is nice but you can only search by part numbers, but the badges are in Shop -> CBFour -> CB750
10
« on: August 16, 2005, 03:18:17 PM »
Thanks for the complement, the site has taken a lot of work to get this far and seems to be taking more and more time, but it's worth it. Side panels, :unsure: Good luck, these are are rare as hens teeth, and if anyone has spares they tend to keep hold of them, Have you seen this site http://www.cmsnl.com/ again repro but the do the badges as well. The only other option is to keep an eye open on ebay, there is a link in the menu that is a live feed of parts for sale on ebay UK, http:// http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=36, but you may need to go to ebay.com for a round the world view. There is tons of stuff for sale in the US. Keep visiting the site
11
« on: August 07, 2005, 02:51:53 PM »
The F2 came fitted as standard with a twin front disc brake setup, and the wheels were comstar mags, I've seem an F1 with a twin disc setup, the owner had use an F2 forks but I can't remember if the wheel was spoked or not :huh:
Post edited by: JonnyHonda, at: 2005/08/07 21:57
12
« on: July 21, 2005, 12:53:06 AM »
I think the whole range of the CB750 uses NGK D8ES with a 0.6mm - 0.7mm gap setting and the contact breaker gap is 0.3mm - 0.4mm
13
« on: July 18, 2005, 10:13:35 AM »
Hi JesseP, the following is a quote from the Haynes manual, so creidts to them, (that should keep the copyrighters happy ) http://www.haynes.com/ 2. Rotate the engine until pistons Nos 1 and 4 are at top dead centre, then alight EXACTLY the T mark for cyclunders 1 and 4 with the static timing mark, as viewed through the aperture in the contact breaker base plate. During this operation, maintain tension on the camshaft drive chain and check that it is still correctly engaged with the sprocket. 3. Slide the camshaft chain sprocket on the camshaft, but do not seat it in its final position. Slide the camshaft chain over the right hand end of the camshaft and lower the camshaft into position. It MUST be positioned so that the keyway is in the 12 o'clock position and the scribe line is horizontal, when viewed from the right hand end. FAILURE TO POSITION THE CAMSHAFT IN THIS MANNER WILL RESULT IN INCORRECT VALVE TIMING 4. Loop the camshaft cjhain around the camshaft sprocket which is still unattached and then slide the sprocket into position so that it can be bolted to the camshaft flange. The camshaft MUST NOT ROTATE during this operation, so the sprocket may have to rotated in relation to the chain until the bolts holes aligh exactly. Tighten the bolts which retain the sprocket, and recheck the alignment of the timing marks. They must register exactly.
14
« on: July 17, 2005, 04:16:09 AM »
Is the F2 like the F1 a copper pipe for the lower section of pipe? The F1 is only a single disc. Could you not use Two of these. David Silver lists the lower pipe for the F1
15
« on: July 14, 2005, 03:31:55 AM »
I have always found sparkplug socket sizes to be confusing. I have two, 16mm and 12mm and the 12mm is the larger.
My F had one plug with the nipple fitted and a different plug cap, it wasn't until I got a deeper socket that I could remove the plug.
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