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Messages - Dan
31
« on: July 05, 2014, 02:29:32 PM »
I've seen the same system on a 400Four on Google images with the collector box chromed. Maybe the owner had it chromed after he bought it.
I agree the picture in the advert was what caught my eye and the actual system may benefit visually being a bit more upswept. It is made to fit the standard mounting points and, for me, it wasn't worth trying to modify a brand new exhaust and make up new brackets just to put a few more degrees on the silencer.
It's not a bad system for the money though and although not strictly street legal, it's not too loud and has gone through 3 mot's with no problems.
Also, I put the needles back to standard since the original write up and the bike now runs perfectly with Ramair filter and jets up one size.
32
« on: May 28, 2014, 08:57:35 PM »
Unfortunately the website is no longer accessible, but it comprehensively detailed the restoration of a 400F. The bike was in Practical Sportsbikes a couple of years ago. I sprayed up my side panels in Milano Red with Halfords rattle cans with good results.
33
« on: May 23, 2014, 08:29:09 PM »
When I had the old hard rubbers I should have tried your method Kent.
I guess as you get to learn your bike you find your own way and methods. If there's room to get the carbs and air box into the frame together my swearing vocabulary would be a bit smaller :-)
34
« on: May 23, 2014, 05:43:16 PM »
I had my carbs off recently. Getting them off is simple but putting them back on can be a pain, or rather getting the air box rubbers back onto the carbs can be a pain - if they have age hardened.
Undo fuel hose from tap and remove petrol tank
Undo / remove throttle cables from carbs
Loosen off clamps on the rubbers between carbs and head / carbs and air box
Pull air box back off carbs and remove air box rubbers then pull carbs back from the head rubbers
You should have enough room to get the carbs out to the side now. I leave all petrol lines and overflows connected to the carbs.
I ended up buying new air box rubbers From DS to make refitting easier after using a heat gun previously to soften up the hardened rubbers.
35
« on: May 21, 2014, 11:07:31 PM »
A "modern equivelent" is Honda Milano Red (from 400 restoration website)
36
« on: May 21, 2014, 11:01:53 PM »
An alternative solution is drilling out the original jets - if you know how far you want to go of course.
37
« on: November 29, 2013, 03:48:00 PM »
Hi,
I replaced all my fuel hoses. The only thing to make sure of, other than getting the correct size, is that the hose is suitable for petrol. You probably know this but better to be safe than sorry eh?
I used standard black hose for the petrol tank to carbs and the 2 hoses on the centre of the fuel feed line on the carbs themselves. For the overflow lines on the carb bowls I used a small bore transparent yellow hose that looks quite neat that I found in a local garden machinery supplies shop.
38
« on: August 29, 2013, 10:08:54 PM »
I would put money on this being carbs out of balance. I had exactly the same problem also. The first time I tried balancing the carbs using vacuum gauges I got nowhere.
I cured this by removing the carbs and setting the carb slides as best I could by eye, then refit carbs and make fine adjustments with the gauges. Result - knocking gone and fears of bearing/primary chain problems allayed.
Search this on You Tube "cb400 4 carb synchronisation"
Dan
39
« on: August 27, 2013, 08:13:33 PM »
I can see what you mean Bryan. If you pressurised a tube in the shape of a capital C it would open out.
Kaja - I have a spare tank that needs some work ( but is the right shape ). If you are interested you can have it for a nominal sum, nothing like the extortionate prices on eBay. PM me and I can send some pics
40
« on: August 18, 2013, 09:54:46 PM »
Tom
I did give it a quick polish with Solvol before taking the pics. The only discolouration you get is on the bend at the top of the down pipes, as you might expect.
Dan
41
« on: August 18, 2013, 02:51:05 PM »
Hi,
I was asked by another member if I would put some info on here about the exhaust on my bike, so here goes...
It's a Marving 4 into 1 race system bought from Wemoto.com about 18 months ago for £260.
Although its described as a race system it is not overly loud and has gone through 2 MOTs with no problems. It has a deep tone to it and only really turns up the volume when you open the throttle wide. Around town it isn't antisocial.
The system comes in one piece. You need to use your own exhaust clamps and collets and you have to fit the baffle in the silencer. The baffle and the cover for the end of the silencer are held in place by Allen bolts (supplied).
The system allows access to the oil filter and the downpipes follow a "standard" layout rather than the original systems swooping lines.
I haven't had the pleasure of riding a standard bike to compare with as mine came with a rotten hacksawed Marshall exhaust and I carried out a couple of mods on the carbs when rebuilding the bike.
Jets are one size larger, and needles raised one notch. The bike pulls well through the rev range with no flat spots. Occasionally as the throttle is cracked open there is a wooly feeling to the response but with a more positive wider opening this doesn't happen. I think this is more an issue with my carbs rather than anything to do with the exhaust.
After 18 months of mainly fair weather riding but a couple of times in the wet the chrome is unmarked. The only part of the exhaust that lets it down is the collecter where the down pipes join the silencer link pipe. For whatever reason this is not chromed but is hand painted with what looks like aluminium paint. Other welds at the end of the silencer are chromed and show no signs of corrosion.
Hope this is of use to anyone considering buying a Marving pipe. I've no regrets.
Dan
42
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:54:17 PM »
The seals on my bike had so much crap built up around them that they were basically glued to the pistons and not allowing the pistons to move through them to compensate for pad wear.
You could bleed the brakes all day long (pointlessly 😤) but still have a spongy feeling at the lever because more travel was needed to get the pads against the disc.
This will probably turn out to not be your problem Lobo haha
Dan
43
« on: August 15, 2013, 06:33:50 PM »
Bryan - agreed, but not to the point that you can't get a solid feel at the lever. And there shouldn't be crap built up around them from road contaminants, salt, etc.
After a caliper overhaul my similar problem with brakes was fixed and its an easy and inexpensive task if nothing else is working.
Dan
44
« on: August 14, 2013, 10:29:08 PM »
I had a similar problem with my old GSXR.
Eventually, I found that the seals in the calipers were not allowing the pistons to slide freely. The pistons were moving to put pressure on the pads but the seals were flexing as the pistons moved and when the lever was released the seals pulled the pistons back. It took ages for me to find this but you could see the pads moving back when you looked closely. On strip down of the calipers, I found a resin-like build up - mainly around the seals and I the seal grooves.
Once cleaned out and reassembled with new seals I had a solid feel at the lever after about a minutes bleeding, whereas before I was bleeding the brakes for ages for no improvement.
If you haven't stripped your caliper for a while this may be worth checking if nothing else is working 👍
Dan
45
« on: July 01, 2013, 11:22:26 PM »
This kit is very reasonably priced, less than £70 on eBay UK. You may think that's too cheap to be any good but there are some good reviews of the same kit on the US SOHC site. Carb changes not necessary, only jetting. I think 466 is the maximum you can take a 400F out to, and from what I have read you lose the chamfer on the bottom off the cylinders so fitting back over the pistons could be tricky.
It's something I may look into later on, maybe.
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