Honda-SOHC

As long as the bottom clip is in the right position this prevents the float from dropping too far down and jamming the valves open- on my Carbs the spring clips span across the width of the bowl stopping the float from dropping too far down Yours should do the same thing if you have them fitted correctly for your carb.  When I had my bottom clips in position with no bowl fitted they stopped the floats from descending too far and allowing the needle valves to drop down too far and jam open.

As regards the carbs fully opening:-
As long as you have the little spring & plunger thing in the right position you should have no trouble with them opening fully. I see no reason why you should ever need to replace the levers as shown in your link unless something is missing. There is what I would describe as a fixed half hip bit that's black in colour and fixed - you then have the small plunger with the wide end facing the fixed cup, then the spring then the lock screw & nut etc. When you fit the throttle link ball into the slot the two halves form a perfect support either side of the ball bit! I cant imagine you ever having enough wear to justify replacement of the link.

I'm a bit at 6's & 7's today as I've had some pretty heavy news on my health front that's making me re-think my strategy for the build timetable. What started as a bit of blood in my Pee last week has turned nasty upstream in my kidneys - the Consultant was talking today about me having my right kidney removed. I guess that's something they don't joke about.

I'm thinking now to just get the engine running as planned if possible by the end of this month. Then I might have to abandon the planned full strip down & go instead for an Oily Rag jobbie so I can ride it when the cam chain & clutch have been sorted.

For now I've ditched the Electrolysis Petrol Tank Clean and gone and tipped 5 Litres of Evaporust in the petrol tank today. That can work its magic whilst I have CT Scans etc etc. Hey I'm 72 I know my three score years and ten are behind me but this was a bit of a sucker punch. Sorry to burden folk here about it but a problem shared and all that.

I will keep on dipping in and out of the  Forum to keep up to speed with everyones bike build progress. Cheers for now  ....Ted

I have no idea how to do it - what about just buying a new one if the chrome has gone bad?

On most of my cars I've used a Lockheed Easybleed (LE) using air from a spare wheel to power it. I've always got a decent pedal by this method. I also like the look of the one Ed China uses that sucks fluid out of the bleed nipple.

Later design master cylinders often can't work with LE. I might source a suction type for future use.

Welcome to the Forum I'm pretty new here myself - I've found it very helpful indeed.
Nurse Julie is also a useful source for some parts as well as information to help with a rebuild plus her partner I think he goes by the name Trigger.

Some great rebuild post in the Project Zone.

Okay I'm new to this forum but did you check the sliders before you reassembled the carbs on the inlet manifold. It sound to me as though you have sticking sliders near the top of the travel could be muck in the carbs or check the links at the carb top where the springs & little T shaped rods are.

I did the drill bit initial setting on mine and they all fully opened from the throttle action. Is there an issue with the two cable adjustments preventing the throttle from fully opening ? Are you sure you put the T shaped rods in the right way up they seem to act like a pushrod for the throttle movement?

I've finished with the gravel bit - loads of stuff came out.

Question do I have to drill out the end of the pin / rivett to remove the cap - can you buy new pins or is there a better way forwards?