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Messages - Bryanj
Pages: 1 ... 464 465 [466] 467 468 ... 677
6976
« on: February 26, 2016, 07:21:02 AM »
When it starts its usually the selector(frequently the centre one) but once it has started the dogs on the gear get rounded along with the mating parts. When 500's were found racing commonly it was normal to "Undercut" the gear dogs to give a more positive location.
In your case i would think you need to replace a selector and at least two gears. The other known problem with 500's is primary chain wear which when excessive can eat into the main oil galleries, might well be worth changing at the same time
6977
« on: February 25, 2016, 05:52:25 AM »
If the carbs have been set up with the tickover either fully closed OR too far open it will be a bitch to start
6978
« on: February 25, 2016, 05:49:10 AM »
If standard bore is 51mm (sorry havn't got that book to hand) you are good to go with new rings and a glaze bust on the bores
6979
« on: February 25, 2016, 05:46:36 AM »
Can't tell you the sizes for a 400 pump, you will have to use a vernier and measure. O rings are sized on the inside diameter and the thickness, DO NOT be tempted to one size up on thickness as that will increase the end float on the rotor and markedly drop the pressure.
The rotating parts are incredibly robust and will pump at a very high percentage of new with incredible scoring
6980
« on: February 25, 2016, 05:40:34 AM »
It isnt important, BUT ignore the boolk and build everything into the top half of the crankcase thaen after case assembly you can refit the primary shaft by holding the starter/primary gear through the sump hole. This way makes it a lot easier to get the selectors etc to line up
6981
« on: February 24, 2016, 05:06:30 PM »
Unmarked pistons are normally, but not always, standard. The rings are marked on the top face by the join again no markings are standard BUT I have seen rings worn so much that the markings have disapeared
6982
« on: February 24, 2016, 06:46:13 AM »
374(Physically exactly the same shape and fitting as 323) is 550 K0, K1 and K2 which were mostly US bikes and the yanks, being who they are had lots of "Blurb" rolled into the back of the silencers so you can only see it before fitting or sometimes through the wheel stating that changing the standard exhaust system consisted of High Treason or some such and you could get 20yrs in Sing Sing for upsetting the authorities!
Whether the repros have this crap verbiage on them i don't know but I'm sure Ash will tell us when he gets his set
6983
« on: February 24, 2016, 06:37:06 AM »
Very difficult to tell visually, if you use the hub and brake plate from the same bike it will fit
6984
« on: February 23, 2016, 08:43:24 AM »
Its a long time since i used genuine sets but i seem to remember that if it is shown on the crankcase page its part of a bottom set, Honda NEVER sold complete sets
6985
« on: February 22, 2016, 07:39:25 AM »
Yes Ash, as long as the internal bearings are all OK the selector mechanism can be sorted out later.
I do not know why Honda put a clutch cover in the "Kit" unless there is some sort of casting mod on the inside but later covers are(were) relatively available as are the detents and if you fit the engine to frame without clutch or cover fitted it can all be done afterwards.
DO NOT fit engine without the generator cover attached as it is all that holds in the main gallery blanking plug and should you turn the engine over to circulate oil you get a big puddle plus a laborious search for a plug that has disappeared and is not magnetic---Yes I have got that T shirt!!!
6986
« on: February 21, 2016, 05:29:50 PM »
Should be 4 pages, probably upside down but no time b4 going work to sort out
6987
« on: February 21, 2016, 04:30:16 PM »
Whilst it may not be original you are better off with the later location pin for the drum and the later neutral and gear location rollers behind the clutch, and that was all part of a recall by Honda. Would you like a copy of the bulletin?
6988
« on: February 20, 2016, 09:40:48 PM »
I have several sets of cylinders but condition unknown mate
6989
« on: February 20, 2016, 04:48:29 PM »
Put a nut over the stud that's left and get the inside mig welded to the remains. that should warm it enough to help removal.
As to torqueing dry that's all I have ever done mate and for it to break it had to be either a bad stud or the torque wrench didn't work right
6990
« on: February 20, 2016, 04:27:32 PM »
Looking at those bits, especially the tensioner that engine has done sod all miles mate, you said one bore had a ridge silly question but was it wear or just a carbon ridge?
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