Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 17, 2023, 01:06:23 PM
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The manual here says 105 cc for replacement / 125 cc from strip down.
Quite a few sites mention 145-150 cc.
I did wonder if there were variations in volumes due to any change in the design of the fork internals.
Can't rely on the fluid I removed as a measurement as one side was very low.
I'm intending to use 10W fork oil.
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I can't remember the quantity that I put in mine. I used the figure in the Clymer manual and the suspension is great, no issues. I can't check at the moment cause I'm away from the house.
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125cc when refitting and 105cc when refilling - at least that is what it says in the Honda Manual!
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Never used 10w fork oil,
I tend to use ATF,
only personal preference
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Never used 10w fork oil,
I tend to use ATF,
only personal preference
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I read that Honda used ATF in the early days - which of the many ATF grades did you use Dexron 2 ?
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Never used 10w fork oil,
I tend to use ATF,
only personal preference
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I read that Honda used ATF in the early days - which of the many ATF grades did you use Dexron 2 ?
Yes,
I used it in the car aswell
If you have an auto box in the car,
Change the oil!!
The box will last much longer
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Never used 10w fork oil,
I tend to use ATF,
only personal preference
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I read that Honda used ATF in the early days - which of the many ATF grades did you use Dexron 2 ?
Yes,
I used it in the car aswell
If you have an auto box in the car,
Change the oil!!
The box will last much longer
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I've run an automatic car for over 30 odd years now John - I always used to do the double oil change, the second one being a 100 miles or so after the first one to allow for the Torque convertor. Sadly they started to make changing your own transmission oil difficult or impossible initially by the removal of a dipstick, so they can only be done by machine via the drain plugs on newer vehicles. I was a stickler for changing the pan filter as well. Never had an auto box go faulty.
As is the way I gave away the last of my ATF stock a couple of years ago.
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I read that in the very early days Honda used fish oil in the forks!
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I read that in the very early days Honda used fish oil in the forks!
Just the plaice for it I'd imagine.
I'm sorry, I just have no sole :o
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Fish oil would have ensured the parts were Whale Oiled.
Tuna for higher performance.
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😂😂 Cod almighty these puns are terrible.
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I think I'll just skate over these silly remarks.
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ATF often used as it offered a consistent viscosity of 5 usually, coupled with its inclusion of anti foaming, usually its silicone oil, to avoid cavitation and reduced damping constants. Quite effective generally.
Quantity, not super critical in these. Enough to keep damper valuing covered through the whole fork travel and not too much that the oil hit the top cap under full compression to give hydraulic locking. Hence the reduced volume on refill to take account of residual quantity left inside when drained.
Heard the fish oil stories before, but don't recall reading definitive confirmation, sounds like it was quite smelly by all accounts.
I use specific fork/damper oil currently to n help with bush and stanchion friction reduction.
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"Don't tell him your name Pike"
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A good variety of pun available to the motorpike and sidecarp rider owner then :)
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Sorry Nigel, the thread was hijacked :(.
Back onto the subject......I had 10w grade in the Norton forks but was told to use 20w grade so I drained the old oil out and replaced it, I couldn't tell the difference! Maybe it was just old technology used in the construction of the dampers etc?
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We can cope with thread drift on here, unlike some forum it's part and parcel of our humour in day to day operations with old vehicles :) all good.
Yes to some of the older dampers having very little in the way of accurate valuing or control in hydraulic terms to be very responsive. Many didn't have much compression or none at all, just some on rebound to stop it being really bouncy, that's as I understand it. Some logic to that, but not to what we expect nowadays.
Anyone familiar with old Morris (BMC etc) type lever arm dampers will know that they got there much before Suzuki made their "killer" V-twin rotary damper, reputation destroying chassis ;D you could use beef dripping in those Morris type :) (that's a joke delta :) ) and find improvement by leaving the minced beef in there too ;D
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That takes me back doing a lever arm conversion on an old MG Sal0on I had - complete with suicide front doors, semaphore indicators & running boards.
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Some of that era is coming back into use Ted.
VW ID3 rear brakes, for example, are drums....closely resembling "minifins" if you used them.
Quite large diameter and so fairly high braking torque, they dont in reality need much heat management with regen braking strategy on them. Also advantageous is that they dont go rusty from lack of use, especially in Scandinavian climatic road conditions where rusting disc etc appear to be a vulnerability within a modestly driven vehicle.
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Good grief, you've all just hit a memory cell!! I worked for Brown Bros. motor factors until 1985, and I can still remember we kept a reasonable stock of BMC front dampers, somehow the part no. 8181 comes to mind. I clearly recollect Austin Cambridges and other badged equivalents coming down the road impersonating a yo-yo when the dampers were shot. Plus of course they could be fixed by Kerbside Motors Inc. Gearboxes played havoc with your ribcage though!! Happy Days eh?
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1871678 were AC Delco points Vauxhall part number F type. Victor's iirc
I worked in the Stores Department at a Vauxhall Dealers as a student.
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It is truly sad that you remember numbers like that Ted
Myself, I can’t ever forget the telephone number for Radio Luxembourg.
01-493-5961
They must have trotted it out every couple of minutes.
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It is truly sad that you remember numbers like that Ted
Myself, I can’t ever forget the telephone number for Radio Luxembourg.
01-493-5961
They must have trotted it out every couple of minutes.
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Was that anything to do with K E Y N S H A M ?
Update:- Google search mentions Horace Batchelor the pools Infra Draw method!
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No idea Ted but googling it just now shows this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231219/c92c0c712dac03caec6d88ecd9bacfad.jpg)
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It is truly sad that you remember numbers like that Ted
Myself, I can’t ever forget the telephone number for Radio Luxembourg.
01-493-5961
They must have trotted it out every couple of minutes.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Was that anything to do with K E Y N S H A M ?
Update:- Google search mentions Horace Batchelor the pools Infra Draw method!
His infallible method to win on the pools,
208
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Back on track subject wise I put fresh Castrol 10W fork oil in the 400 today - left side cap went back on easily, right side I had to unbolt the brake master cylinder as there was not enough room for me to press down the cap and rotate it with the cylinder in position. Probably a combination of having long fingers with weak strength due to advancing decrepitness.
Top Tip
Obvious to the experienced - if changing oil in situ do one side at a time - otherwise the front wheel dips as the springs are pushed out so fitting the caps is more difficult. I actually used a large rubber cork & jammed it between the right fork top & the master cylinder to hold the suspension down as I fitted the left cap.
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Top tip Ted :)
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I used to loosen the bars until I could rotate them out of the way, easier to push down on the top nut that was as well.