Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Tiny Tim on March 17, 2015, 05:07:45 PM
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Just had the first real prod and a poke of my 350 project.
First impressions are good, obviously it will need a complete strip down and a few quid thrown at it.
What I've discovered so far is.
A dealers sticker :)
Some interesting wiring :o
What looks like some kind of resin on the bottom of the tank :-\
The original exhausts have rotted where the down pipes and mufflers meet, mufflers have split along the seams :-[
Fuel tap bowl has been screwed in so tightly to the tap it's self has broken >:(
Lots of dust, sand and dead spiders.
On the plus side I do have working indicators, main beam, idiot lights, a pretty decent seat and a spark :)
The main aim this weekend is to get the engine started briefly just to make sure it's not making any nasty noises. Then I'll start the strip and list writing.
Well that's the next couple of years weekend entertainment sorted out, now I just need lots of cash.
More as it happens
Tim
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Nice one Tim.
Shame your pics aren't a bit bigger.
Well done on finding the spiders. They probably kept the flies away.
I found the world's oldest wasp behind my engine. I reckon he/she was 40 years old... albeit a bit crispy!
All the best for your two year project (have you seen the 'cheap' exhaust ad on the forum home page? - http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,8054.msg52405/topicseen.html#new).
Cheers, D.
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Hi Tim,
Welcome to the forum from another 350 nut. Plenty of stuff out there to get you up and running.
I have some odds and ends available and lot's of 400/4 bits are compatible. Shout if you need any info/help
Ian
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If you need a set of new 4-4 CB350F pipes I have a brand new boxed set. Bought for a project last year and ended up not needing them. Believe they are Sankei stamped OEM pipes.
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Cheers guys.
Looking forward to getting this bike back on the road.
One question I have, is there a time limit from when a bike is registerd on the nova database until the v5 etc is applied for?
One part I definitely need is a fuel tap. Mine is beyond repair.
I'll try and get bigger pictures up next time.
Tim
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Thanks for the nova info James.
Spent a few hours today trying to get the 350 to start, the closest it got was one very loud cough. I really need to hear it running before I start The strip down. Carbs off tomorrow as they all leak out of the bottom.
Had a bit of a disaster with the left hand engine casing. My own fault really, in my eagerness to find out why the starter motor wires have been tampered with. I put a crack in the casing whilst trying to undo a butchered screw :o
So I've picked up a blowtorch and will leave the fists of ham indoors next time I go near it.
More as it happens
Tim
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Progress, I think.
Managed to get the damaged sprocket cover off the bike. A bent screw was the problem.
Found a lovely mouse nest and more dead spiders behind it.
Can't see why the starter motor was disconnected, it does spin over when I hot wire the starter solenoid.
The crowning achievement of yesterday's efforts was I managed to get the beast to fire up for a whole 2-3 seconds.
Carbs still leak, no surprise there then. What little noise the engine made sounded pretty good. No nasty clattering, but I won't know for sure until I have a look inside.
I'll upload a few more photos when I get a minute.
More as it happens.
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Thanks Tim,
Interesting thread that will probably become more so.
Cheers,
D.
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Right then, here we go.
Time to start pulling it apart.
[attach=2][attach=3][attach=4]
As you can see I have quite a bit of work ahead of me.
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First hurdle out of the way.
Rear section removed with only one sheared bolt.
I can see a lot of chroming in my future.
More as it happens
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Hmmm!
A bit of rust then.
Down pipes are solid.
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Rear wheel off, bearings etc look in good condition.
Hopefully save a few pennies there.
I'm sure a previous owner has taken it off road ::)
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Well so far so good.
I've only had one sheared bolt, one chewed screw and a bent screw that resulted in a cracked sprocket cover.
The bike has definitely been used off road.
Wiring loom will need to be replaced as it's been butchered.
Should be completely broken down by next weekend, then I can start sending stuff away for refurbishment. Oh I better write a big shopping list.
[attach=1]
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Hi,
You missed "expensive" out of shopping list!-Ken
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Yes indeed, the more interesting the thread, the more costly the background seems to be!
keep on mate.
Cheers, D.
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First of the new parts.
A nice new set of exhausts thanks to James.
[attachimg=1]
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Started the day with this
[attach=1]
And ended with this[attach=2]
I now have a rather long list of parts needed and a lot of work ahead of me.
Just need my lottery numbers to come up.
more as it happens.
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Going to a jumble in the morning what do you want and will keep an eye out for you
Cheers
Bitsa
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Going to a jumble in the morning what do you want and will keep an eye out for you
Cheers
Bitsa
Right hand switch gear would be useful, mine has snapped and bodged wiring as well as chewed up internals. No wonder somebody by passed the starter motor.
Bottom right lower engine bolt is missing.
Fork shrouds, mine are dented.
Front caliper back plate.
Front master cylinder.
Fuel tap/pet cock.
Fuel tank, mine has been repaired with some type of epoxy and has some really nasty silver stuff inside.
Just one of the above would be great.
Thanks Bitsa
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Hi all,
Can anyone recommend the best type/make of black paint to use on the switch gear.
Cheers.
Tim
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Tim,
I have used Simoniz tough black on my restorations and they look superb.
You can also bake it on, I also use it on callipers.
There was a debate on it recently and this was by far the best performer.
I get mine from below.
Simoniz Tough Black Satin 500ml Car Spray Paint Aerosol Can
Euro Car Parts - The UK’s Largest Parts Distributor
Regards,
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I was told that a famous northern restoration guru uses this method for the switches and M/cyl but not confirmed. Heat the parts up then spray with PJ1 satin that's been shaken then put in in hot water to get spray can as hot as possible, then shaken again , then bake parts in an oven then finish with a light polish in Solvol. Evidently it's indestinguishable from the original anodize finish. Power coat is a bit too thick. I told this to a guy near me, loaned him my PJ1, and his 750K2 bike was nominated for bike of the year in CB so sounds good. He also borrowed my zinc plating gear.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/81ncaer7d2ghqda/AADzr3YMfZQ5eYFoX6dCFHqza?dl=0
I was going to try home anodizing but I think I will just use this method now. It's also been mentioned on the sandcastonly site. Somewhere in an email I have the recommended temperatures for baking.
Ash
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Thanks for the advice guys, I have an old switch unit from another bike somewhere. I'll give your suggested methods a go on one half each and see what results I get.
Hopefully the frame and swing arm will get degreased this weekend and I can box up all the black parts ready to be sent off somewhere for painting or powder coating. Undecided as to which method yet.
Oh and clean up the engine.
Busy times ahead.
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Made some more progress yesterday.
Mostly cleaning and degreasing the black parts of the bike.
[attachimg=1]
Removed the shock bushes from the swing arm but have decided to leave the main swing arm bushes as they look in pretty decent nick.
Should be able to send the black parts away in the next week or so, then it's onto the next part of the job.
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So how are you going to protect the swingarm bushes through the blasting and painting process if you're leaving them in place?::)
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I usually use two large washers with some thread bar and nuts to seal the ends. If there's a grease nipple hole I screw in and old nipple that's been powder coated a few times already. Give it all a good clean out after with paraffin and compressed air. Not had a problem so far.
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So how are you going to protect the swingarm bushes through the blasting and painting process if you're leaving them in place?::)
To be honest I hadn't thought of that, must of been having a blond moment.
Mind you I like Roy's suggestion for protecting them. I'll have to speak to the company carrying out the work to see if they want them removed.
I suppose if they do have to come out it's not a bad thing as new ones wouldn't do it any harm.
Cheers for all your hints and tips guys, always appreciated.
Tim
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Tim,
Given the effort involved & the size of your project you'd be kicking yourself down the track for the want of separating the swing arm to give a better paint job + thence 'peace of mind' new (inexpensive) bushes.
Just my thoughts,
Simon
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With Lobo on that one peace of mind you know there new ;D
Cheers
Bitsa
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Good advice guys :)
Swing arm bushes being removed this week when I have a bit of spare time.
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Swing arm bushes out in 10mins.
Result ;D
[attachimg=1]
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They look like 400 bushes, are they plastic. Mine are steel and are being a real pig to shift. But I will prevail.
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Plastic bushes indeed, took me by surprise.
A welcome surprise.
Don't envy you dealing with the steel ones Roy
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looks like a 400 swing arm ;D ;D ;D
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Ere! Does that mean I have the wrong swing arm or are they the same on both bikes.
Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question.
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Ere! Does that mean I have the wrong swing arm or are they the same on both bikes.
Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question.
Don't worry you have the right swing arm ;)
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Looks the same as mine even though the bushes are different.
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Ere! Does that mean I have the wrong swing arm or are they the same on both bikes.
Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question.
Don't worry you have the right swing arm ;)
Did I tell you my middle name is gullible ;D ;D ;D
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Ere! Does that mean I have the wrong swing arm or are they the same on both bikes.
Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question.
Don't worry you have the right swing arm ;)
Did I tell you my middle name is gullible ;D ;D ;D
Had you worried ;D ;D ;D
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Tyres removed last week and it revealed a bit of corrosion. It would appear as though the bike has stood somewhere wet and water has crept in.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
I've had a chat with a local wheel builder and he thinks it would be more cost effective to use new rims from DS. Has anyone recently had any rims re-chromed and if so how much was it.
Also managed to pick up some more replacement parts.
My tank is showing evidence of corrosion underneath and has what looks like a number of pin holes. Somebody has lined it at some point and that's long past its best. They have also used some kind of resin along the bottom, I can only assume this was to plug some more holes. Pictures to follow.
If it can be repaired I imagine it will cost a few quid.
More as it happens
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Usually cheaper to replace than re chrome as the time involved in derusting is huge
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I paid 110 GBP to have an 18" x 1.85 rear rim rechromed. It only have very slight pitting to begin with. That rim looks beyond economical repair to me.
Ash
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I paid 110 GBP to have an 18" x 1.85 rear rim rechromed. It only have very slight pitting to begin with. That rim looks beyond economical repair to me.
Ash
Usually cheaper to replace than re chrome as the time involved in derusting is huge
Pretty much what the wheel builder said, but it's always good to get some second opinions.
Cheers
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Tim - worth speaking with David at www.saisei-europe.com - he's doing some cracking deals on DID rims at the moment.
James.
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Tim - worth speaking with David at www.saisei-europe.com - he's doing some cracking deals on DID rims at the moment.
James.
Yes James ... I spotted them on Yamiya's site for the 400/4 and David came back with a cracking price. Pity about the scripting that DID put on nowadays but you can basically have a pair brand new for not much more than the cost of re-chroming a single rim (probably the same if you take the too-ing and fro-ing of getting a re-chrome done.
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Cheers guys, message sent regarding wheel rims.
Dropped off the frame etc to a local powder coaters. I did consider blasting and painting but time, money and the convenience made my mind up.
Not an immediate problem but a problem to be addressed in the future is my tank.
Hopefully there isn't anything horrendous lurking beneath the resin. I'll rub it down in the week to see.
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Tank pics
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]
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That's where 400four tanks rot, waste of time putting filler on it. It'll only leak somewhere else, and the fuel filter gets clogged up with rust particles. Best to get some tank lining preparation ; don't know which one's the best but someone on the forum will know.
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Agh! Powder coaters
Why tell me it will be ready yesterday, then tell me it hasn't been started >:(
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Progress has been slow on the 350.
Continental drift has a greater sense of urgency than the powder coaters I'm using.
On the plus side my new rims turned up from David at Saisei very quickly.
They are at the wheel builders and should be back in a couple of weeks.
I've also managed to pick up a few more parts for the bike as well, getting there slowly.
More when it happens
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Let me know how the wheels turn out Tim. May just use the same people if the price and quality is right. Been dreading doing the wheels. What have you done with the hubs, polished/vapour blasted etc. Know what you mean about the powder coaters, my chromers are like that. When they say 2 weeks they really mean 2 months. Cheers Roy.
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Hubs are currently being polished then lacquered by a mate of mine. He has offered to do the fork legs too.
As soon as the wheels are done I'll post some pics.
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Best to get some tank lining preparation ; don't know which one's the best but someone on the forum will know.
I used Phosphoric Acid to remove the internal rust on my CB550 tank and then after it was completely dry used POR-15 to seal it.
That was 6 months ago and no problems so far.
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Can anyone tell how on earth I'm supposed to remove the chrome fork shrouds/tops on the 350 forks?
Tried all sorts of things but to no avail.
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Forks have to come out mate
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Forks are off the bike, I was going to take them apart and send the stanchions off to Philpotts for rechroming. But I can not get to the dust seal and circlip due to the chrome shrouds (part no 5 in the picture below) on top of the forks. They just won't budge, already put a small crease in one, I'd rather not do anymore damage.
[attachimg=1]
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Ah, never seen one like that before so hence not understanding, i would think that they either screw on or press on either way gentle heat and WD should aid movement
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Agree with Bryan some screwed on and some pushed cant remember what models though sorry.Back in the days of plenty if real bad seized we cut them off and replaced with then reasonable priced new ones
Cheers
Bitsa
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Tim. Have included some pictures to help. The chrome shrouds are a press fit and are very tight. This is how I got them off.
Held the fork slider in the vice so I could see the little cutout area just below the shroud
[attach=1]
Then after liberal application of PlusGas penetrating fluid, started it moving using a sharp screwdriver and a small hammer. Be very gentle with it so as not to cause damage. Once its moving, move around the shroud, keeping it even all around, gently tapping it out until its far enough out to pull off.
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
Just need to be gentle and tons of patience. Good luck!!
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Thanks Guys, I shall have another go in the next day or two.
Fortunately I do have another set of forks so if I damage one at least there's a back up.
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Success.
The chrome shrouds on the forks are off and the forks are dismantled.
Stanchions off for rechroming early next week.
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Picked up the powder coating today.
Looks good, I'll post some pics when it's unwrapped.
Hubs back tomorrow and returned to the wheel builder.
Nice to start seeing where all my cash has gone.
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Got the 350 wheels back today.
Tried to post some pictures but no luck.
I'll try again later.
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Wheels
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Nice one Tim you've managed to shrink them. :D What app did you use?
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I put a how to in tricks and tips
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Blimey Bryan, I think you may need to update your windows version. Back when Noah were a lad.
Try FastStone Photo Resizer, its fairly old software but easy to use and works on all windows versions. Use the advanced option to re-size. Does batch conversion easily. And its completely free.
And your whites come out dazzlingly clean!
Just read that back and it sounds like a used car salesman's pitch. Sorry. ;D
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can't update without losing loads of software/info mate as windows 7 rewrites just about everything
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I didn't use an app to shrink the pictures. Just uploaded from my iPad as I've done before. Can't say why they wouldn't upload before?
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That's weird Tim. The photo's on here are 150k smaller than the one's you emailed me. That put them just under the 1mb limit so they uploaded okay. Must be an iPad thing?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
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I don't quite get it either. Oh well as long as it work I won't think about it.
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Fork stanchions arrived back today from Philpots, earlier than expected.[attach=1]
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Started to have a look in the engine this afternoon. To my untrained eye it's looking fairly decent so far. Not sure if I'll get any further this week, but it is progress.
[attach=1]
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Pic 2
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Well after 3 weeks away its back to the grindstone.
Forks should be back together by the end of the week.
Hopefully I'll hear from the chromers this week and pick a box of goodies I dropped off before I went away.
Should get back to dismantling the engine too and there is still the matter of painting. But that's for another day.
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Tim.
Dropped my tins off for painting last week.
Just been in tonight with the decals and he's mixed a batch of paint (a modern metallic equivalent) that I honestly cannot tell the difference from the original. So well happy with that. He says that the recipe is done by weight so he can replicate it exactly whenever it's required, accidents etc.
Quoted me £380 but I supply the decals (£44).
Will post some pictures in a few weeks when I get it back, and the final price.
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Look forward to seeing the finished paint work Roy.
That is a decent price, what colour did you decide on in the end?
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Hope you had a good holiday.
He's matching the paint up to a good sample of Candy Bacchus Olive. The sample is a damaged headlamp ear that has unfaded like new paint on the inside.
The olive colour is actually Candy Gold over Metallic Blue. He can do that for me at a dearer price but is certain that the metallic route is cheaper/more robust/less fading and nobody will be able to tell the difference. That's a brave claim so will wait and see how it turns out. But the paint mix he showed me looked absolutely spot on so I am hopeful.
Cheers.
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Right then, time for an update.
Tins were dropped off to the painters today.
I've been assured by the chromers I'll get my stuff back end of the month.
Should be taking the engine over to a mechanic friend of mine in a couple of weeks to strip and rebuild. His help has been invaluable over the past couple of months.
I'll sort out some more pictures this weekend.
Getting there slowly and when funds allow.
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Right then, time for a long overdue update.
I've not had a great deal of time to work on the bike apart from dropping off and collecting parts.
Paint is done, engine is in a workshop and should be back in 6 weeks, wheels have tyres, lots of parts ordered, lots of the wrong parts delivered! and the chrome is sort of done (long story)
I would have liked to be further along with the project but other things always seem to crop up when you least expect it.
One thing I do need to find is a complete set of stickers, am I correct in thinking Piki is the right person to ask on the forum?
Cheers
Tim
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Bit of a problem with the images (they read here as 0kb and won't open)
When uploading, select "Inline Full-size image" like this:
[attachimg=1]
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I've tried to upload pictures from my iPad & Dropbox and as yet no success.