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Messages - Greenbat
1
« on: September 28, 2013, 07:25:28 PM »
Morning, I'm s-l-o-w-l-y getting odd bits for a 400/4 special together-so far, a donor bike in bits, twin disc front end, limited ed Yoshi pipe on order (OK, I'm a tart  ) and 2-4 seat. I've seen a few really nice specials based on taking a 70's bike and fitting modern running gear, which I think would make a nice contrast to my mainly stock 4. So, does anyone know of an alloy swing arm that would be an easy fit? And has anyone ever tried making a 400/4 monoshock? For my stock bike, are there any brake discs that fit straight in and give better performance? I'm thinking holes, slots etc. The system is pretty much all new, braided hoses etc so I think I've gone as far as I can with it.
2
« on: July 28, 2013, 02:08:13 AM »
Can't see the problem myself. Ok the bolt may have a odd thread, very fine IIRC but so long as you change the nut as well as the bolt and the length is right you can use any 10mm bolt. I replaced all my engine bolts with stainless 30 years ago, best bet is to make sure you grease them BEFORE you fit them as it stops the corrosion starting and ending up like this.
I'd be careful using stainless in high stress areas, as it is more brittle than steel. Plus, SS and ally corrode very badly. Returning to that one of mine that had the lugs fall off-they literally did that, the corrosion had already swollen up and broke the casting. Maybe, your best bet is turn it upside down and use a dremel on the nut. It'll take ages, but should be the least risky. Drilling down the middle may work, but if you break into the ally it'll cut that instead of the steel.
3
« on: July 28, 2013, 02:00:54 AM »
Got a couple of project bikes if you want...
Camchain tensioner is a bitch, so either look for one that has had some attention already or budget for a strip. The repair is dead easy, you just grind away the hinge a bit to remove the buured over metal and give more clearance. Mine was done about 10K miles ago, just stripped for new primary chain and it is still free.
Camchains with working tensioners should do about 20K miles. Primary drive chain has no tensioner, so the bike will rattle a lot. Opinion varies as to when to change, I've done mine at 43K cos it was pissing me off and I had one.
If the head has been off, you must replace two rubber seals in it or it'll piss oil out each side. Mine did that for a few K miles, no real ill effects just looks ugly.
The front brake caliper arm pivot pin is both a mouthful to say, and prone to seizing. Either strip regularly and grease it up very well, or drill and tap for a grease gun.
Carbs go out of balance easily, so buy a set of 4 vac gauges and figure them out. Likewise set the ignition properly too.
Like most SOHC hondas, camshaft runs directly in the head (no bearings/shells) so don't scrimp on oil changes. I do mine round 1200 miles.
Fit new taper roller steering head bearings. This applies to any bike, every one I've ever bought has had buggered head bearings, and consequently steered like a wonky shopping trolley.
I love my little 4 to bits, it was my first big bike after passing my test. Bought it for £750 (!) in 2008 off ebay, PO had been doing it up toward concours. I used it as my daily ride, 40 miles/day for about 2 1/2 years (excluding winter) and it took it easily. Like I say, just had engine apart and it looks great in there. David Silvers do practically everything bar cases, frames and cranks, and theres a few tasty race bits from Japan.
4
« on: July 11, 2013, 09:26:51 AM »
Go carefully! The bolts can swell up with corrosion, and crack the lugs in the case they go through. I have an engine where said lugs fell off as soon as they saw a spanner, apparently welding up is next to impossible.
5
« on: July 05, 2013, 12:28:48 PM »
For those of you unaware, Yoshi are doing a limited edition hand bent pipe for the 400/4. I wanted one, so managed to get the supplier details and prices for the UK. Thought you might be interested. Supplier is Performance Parts in Daventry, 01327 706139. The Normal Yoshi pipe is: 110-441-4640 : JMCA Machine Bent CB400 FOUR >> £650 inc. VAT. Available to order from Japan – lead times 3-4 weeks. http://shop.yoshimura-jp.com/en/product/syousai.php?id=410Obviously this can be ordered any time. The Limited edition Yoshi pipe is: 150-441-0840 : Hand Bent CB400FOUR 74-77 >> £799 inc. VAT. Availability – see below. 150-441-0840 is limited edition system and orders will only be taken until 15th July, 2013. It includes both the R & S baffles. The factory currently has a large number of backorders for this product. Numbers that can be produced are also limited since this model is hand-made. Based on the current orders, expected time of completion is approximately end of October. We appreciate that this is quite a long time to wait, but this is definitely a very good opportunity to have this limited product. http://shop.yoshimura-jp.com/en/product/syousai.php?id=15657I've just ordered the limited one. Anyone want to buy my spare 400/4 project? I'm Broke!
6
« on: June 27, 2013, 01:16:46 AM »
Crikey, I'm just doing my carbs because mine has always had the same problem! I'd be interested to see how you fix it. I always thought it was just cruddy carbs and a dunstall decibel pipe.
People are saying two different float heights, 21mm and 24mm. Is it possible that 21mm is the height the fuel should be from the top of the float bowl, and 24mm is the height from the float bowl top to float bottom that should give that figure? Obviously the float bottom will be below the fuel level. Maybe over time the fuel soaks in, makes the floats sink and so you get a high level and richness.
You can see the actual height by attaching a clear pipe to the float bowl and holding the open end above the top of the bowl. The fuel in the pipe will be the same level as in the bowl, so you can measure it. Shouldn't be too hard, you've got drain screws in the bowls already.
7
« on: June 27, 2013, 01:05:45 AM »
I've always used roadriders, in the sizes recomended on the avon website. They are lovely. Used to get about 14K out the front and 7K rear, doing two 20 mile trips round country roads a day to work. Never had any nasty moments either. Personally, I think choosing appearance over grip is pretty daft, I like to stay upright.
8
« on: June 21, 2013, 12:37:42 AM »
Has anyone used this? http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB400F-SUPER-SPORT-FOUR/part_28474/The one I got has no O rings that fit the oil pump-neither the dowels, the pump chambers or the spigot that goes in the cases. It does have a bag of about 3 different sizes, which appear to have been thrown in at random. I've emailed to complain, but thought I'd see if anyone else has this problem.
9
« on: June 13, 2013, 09:47:57 AM »
I've got the carbs off as part of a strip down to replace the chains. I can't help thinking that those choke butterflies must be restricting the bike a bit. Has anyone tried removing them and fitting a different choke? Most mikuni carbs I've seen have an extra hole that is opened up, do the keihins have something szimilar blanked off?
10
« on: April 30, 2013, 10:29:02 PM »
I had the sump off and it did feel pretty loose, I got a new one in some parts and it feels loads better. It has a non standard silencer, once I know the chains are good I want to get the carbs fully cleaned and set up for it.
11
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:39:48 AM »
Morning,
What is the mile limit for the primary chain? I'm sure it's 40K. Mine is up to 43K and making big clattery noises...
I'm thinking of stripping the engine and doing new chains, new rings, regrind valves, valve stem seals, gearbox bearing and replace any other seals I see. Can anyone think of owt else worth doing? Camchain adjuster should be OK, it was tackled a few years ago.
Finally, you can't get primary guide rubbers. Is it recommended to shim them up a bit if they're worn? Be nice to shut the rattles up, at least for a mile or two.
12
« on: March 05, 2009, 06:04:29 PM »
Sorry Dyslexic wireless keyboard was playing up (and still does) was supposed to say shouldnt rattle if carbs balanced properly
Carbs were done and new camchain and tensioners in October. The rattle is the primary drive, which I had been told is normal.
13
« on: March 05, 2009, 04:28:28 PM »
Nice picture, glad to see the escrot is held together with dealership gaffer tape!
Ha ha, yeah. It's my Dads. I can't drive yet, and doing my test wouldn't be much help cos insurance is crippling.
14
« on: March 04, 2009, 06:44:36 PM »
Well, I tried posting a picture but apparently the attachment thingy is full. Today I got some front wheel bearings and a taper roller bearing steering kit. These will be fitted when I can be arsed. I've only just got her back on the road after replacing a fork stanchion (and at the same time painting the legs and unseizing the brake arm pivot). Here might be a picture off flickr...maybe... 
15
« on: March 04, 2009, 04:24:24 PM »
Cant use a belt as it runs in oil and shouldnt bbbbbb
Ah, bugger. What do you mean by bbbbb? I've noticed one or two post missing the last bit, or do you mean it shouldn't rattle? I do hope it's the former 
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