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Topics - billdn
31
« on: November 12, 2021, 02:54:28 PM »
Getting ready for the winter fettle and noticed this - carried out by earlier owner I guess! The bolt is an Allen head bolt going into the housing and there appears to be a steel dowel/pin going right through the housing (blue arrow) it protrudes by same length other side of housing, it looks like some cockeyed attempt to lock the Allen bolt in position. Why I've no idea ?
TBH I've never attempted adjustment of the cam chain, as I run on the it ain't broke don't fix it principle!
However I have a oil leak to l/h/s just below rocker box and I suspect an oil restrictor valve rubber has gone, so while I'm there have a look? Albeit would mean removing barrels etc and revealing what ever horrors lie within.
I'm loathe to remove/undo it as bike runs fine at the moment.
32
« on: November 12, 2021, 02:45:03 PM »
I suspected a damaged wire and slit this covering open, but thankfully no damage, but how to replace/make good - I suspect it gets hot hence the woven type sleeve so 2 questions :-
a) cover with heat shrink - don't think its suitable tbh.
b) Vehicle wiring products do similar on their site , use that?
c) insulation tape- only kidding!
I know don't do that again but was only looking honest, the field core wires covering is also bit frayed so possibly change that also.
33
« on: September 25, 2021, 10:14:38 AM »
Having replaced old brake linings with replacement from wemoto I've noticed that the outside of plate that holds them gets hot , by backing off nut on rod adjuster slightly it's not so bad but still gets warmish. If I back it off anymore I'll have no rear brake! Any thoughts or is it just bedding in problem?
34
« on: September 08, 2021, 06:19:28 PM »
Mate of mine reckons I need new fork seals. I don't think so but what's your collective opinions on the attached. Tubes are rust free with no pitting and handling appears OK. Is there a sort of rebound test that I could do?
Occasionally hard bumps felt , but the size of the blooming potholes round here I'm not surprised, when I can't miss them that is!
35
« on: August 25, 2021, 04:10:26 PM »
Should these 2 marks on pedal and shift align or is it just coincidence 🤔. If so how because the spring doesn't want to go that far under tension.
36
« on: August 13, 2021, 10:56:54 AM »
Having rewired the new indicators and sorted out earthing they now work fine, they're not LED btw, but the idiot lights on console above ignition key for the indicators both sides flash at same time !. Indicators pulse at required rate and work correctly - they are also 21W bulbs as opposed to 18W , (not that i can see that it makes much difference- ampage wise albeit a small increase to 7amps , I assume you add combined left or right side lamps when flashing or do you add all 4 units?).
I'm guessing poor earthing somewhere causing idiot lights to both flash, am I right?
37
« on: August 08, 2021, 10:17:24 AM »
I'm slowly doing a cafe racer type rebuild- engine up and running! but have decided to use a twin headlamp set up instead of the original candle powered unit - but where to hide the wires that hide inside it, So 2 questions has anyone done it or got any ideas and/or would making my own loom using micro wire be a part solution- especially to replace the headlamp wiring and switches?.
I've also changed to LED indicators so guess I'll need resistors to keep the original relay.
38
« on: June 15, 2021, 06:48:37 PM »
Well after a fight and a lot of swearing managed to remove the sprocket bolt dampers/ bushes whatever they're called in the hub! Now before I refit the replacements someone must have done it before so any tips/advice BEFORE I start more cussing and blaspheming! in my mind I feel that I should put replacement bushes in freezer for a spell- akin to bearing fitting and possible local heat on the hub too at the time of fitting, but to apply oil/grease to aid fitting or not is the question , the old ones don't appear to have any or it's evaporated over the years. Also do they just pop in (ha ha  ) or need pressing in . as I said thought I'd ask first for the sake of my and the wife's sanity!
39
« on: June 04, 2021, 02:35:43 PM »
While removing the rear wheel for a new tyre to be fitted I noticed that the r/h/s bearing just fell out when I took of the rear brake plate. It fits back in but as soon as you lay wheel with right side down it falls out again, the bearing is fairly new too. I also noted that the hub sprocket dampers were worn too - so I've ordered replacements.
The workshop said when I told him about bearing that my hub must be worn and ought to seek a replacement. The question is this the only option albeit a sensible one - don't want bearing to come out while riding!
I suspect the worn dampers (sprocket side) have caused the wheel to wear uneven and that is why the right bearing is loose.
Any thoughts guys -- DS can supply a new one but wow !
A second hand one could work but could give same problem.
40
« on: May 24, 2021, 10:45:50 AM »
Having stripped the carbs ready for a clean, to my mind the brassware - jets , emulsion pipe etc look to be in good order. Is there any checks I should be doing to make sure they're ok or just bite the bullet and replace anyway? Gaskets and seals etc I have. I just don't want to reassemble , refit and then have to take them off again!
41
« on: May 16, 2021, 02:12:57 PM »
Still having troubles setting the damn timing , see earlier post, so thought I'd have a good check on everything - the advance/retard unit has what looks to be some wear around the base -I say wear because it looks uneven, eg not machined and is worse on the 1-4 side compared to the 2-3 side - could this be why I have hit and miss success when trying to set up static timing with a test light, no matter how much I adjust points gap. Or am I just clutching at straws! Pics of a new one on DS are not clear.
42
« on: April 24, 2021, 06:07:46 PM »
Probably an old topic and I have used the search engine which helped somewhat but not completely. Having purchased a new points plate complete I thought this would be easy  ! I've tried both methods in the Haynes and Clymer manuals with no success so can anybody please give me a definitive procedure. The story so far:- 1) Turn 22mm nut until 1-4 points at widest and adjust to 0.35mm (mid point) 2) Same with 2-3 3) Hook up test light to blue wire (points 1-4) and earth on engine turn on ignition and rotate 22mm nut until F mark for 1-4 aligns with static mark -adjust back plate -light comes on but stays on for about 240 degrees then goes out, same happens when doing yellow on 2-3 side. 4) re - Adjust points gap when F mark aligned back to 0.35mm 5) Sort of spark on 1-4 but none on 2-3 6) Coils are new too. I vaguely recall something or other about not getting something round the wrong way as it throws everything out but can't remember it! I'm obviously doing something wrong! Yes I know Haynes are good for bonfires! But the Honda shop manual refers to a strobe and the engine running, be nice to get the b####y thing started! I throw myself at your mercy and ridicule if that suits!
43
« on: March 29, 2021, 07:20:51 PM »
A battery I've had on trickle charge for a while, battery make is Motobat has a charge of 12.7/12.9volts but when fitted to the bike won't even turn over starter but another one which is fitted, albeit newer is showing 12.5volts but starts bike fine - I'm confused!
Has the prolonged trickle charge on the old battery - maybe a year on charge done something to the power of the battery but not the voltage?. I've heard Motobatt batteries can just die but why the charge in it?
44
« on: March 29, 2021, 07:15:24 PM »
Bike wouldn't start and noticed main fuse blown, no biggy so went to couple of places looking for spares BUT can't find the same ones. The old main fuse says on it " 8amp continuous 15amp blow" is a standard plain 15amp fuse ok? In my small electrickery world as long as it blows at 15amps is there a problem or is it just that I've been lucky and it's an old fuse that's finally given up the ghost?
45
« on: March 19, 2021, 05:04:48 PM »
The rear brake wear indicator is "discontinued" item 303 on attachment (part # 43145-388-000) and torque arm washer type thing - bear with me! item 584 on attachment (part no 90524-030-000) is £1.20 each for what looks like a plain washer!
2 questions does anyone have a spare part 303 or will a washer suffice just to pad out width? And is part 548 that special, I tried a washer and when it came to undo it , the washer had deflected and was B***H to remove - maybe 2 washers - any thoughts anyone , I don't mind the £1.20 its the p and p that irks somewhat.
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