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Topics - billdn
46
« on: March 14, 2021, 04:17:24 PM »
Me again! My current paddock stand is u/s and needs 2 of us to get it in position and to be honest was cheap and cheerful. Has anyone got a brand they use / recommend. I'd rather a wheel stand or chock arrangement rather than a pit stand. I've seen one for £135 which incorporates a wheel reducer to accommodate the narrow tyre (100mm) on the 400/4, and if i spend that she'll kill me! 
47
« on: March 05, 2021, 03:57:27 PM »
Can anyone recommend a bike lift, I'm getting too old to be scrabbling around the floor.
I don't mean a platform lift but one that lifts both wheels off the ground without using the centre stand, sometimes the stand alone doesn't give enough clearance/lift. The one I was given fouled the sump pan and/or the collector box and pipes.
I've tried paddock stands but the non standard shorty exhaust is wider than the usual exhaust so wont fit on the swinging arm and the centre stand can't be fitted as it hits the exhaust bracket - I know should have kept it all standard!
I really don't fancy removing the exhaust every time I want to adjust the chain!
Someone must have come across this before, surely.
48
« on: February 17, 2021, 05:50:02 PM »
After replacing rear brake pads and respraying tensioner arm and rear brake rod back to black - were polished but kept getting mild rust. I'm having a devil of a job getting the rear brake pedal to actuate the switch without having it so tight that the back wheel is locked up before it's operated!
It all worked when I took it off!
So having checked the archive posts I learnt that dots on pedal and shaft for brake pedal should be aligned- check.
Getting the footrest on is a fiddle but doable. the problem arises that when the brake rod is connected to brake arm the wheel is locked up , even with above in right place, and obviously spring on cam that operates brake light cant move and operate the rear brake light.
I've tried repositioning and pre tensioning the brake rod arm ,by pushing the unsecured end from the brake rod arm to push spring up prior to fitting pedal but it all ends up with brakes full on or fouling the exhaust collector box.
it all sound a bit protracted and I know I'm missing something simple but for the life of me I can't work it out. if I do get it right then the spring to operate the brake light isn't getting enough movement to operate the switch - running with no rear brake light is tempting bit never a good idea. The brake light switch works when operated manually.
My thought process is :-
a) torque arm is in a fixed predetermined location due to it's fixings and is to all intents not the problem
b) footrest ditto
c) brake rod arm must be in right place due to location in hub with pads. maybe)
So the problem must lie with 1) pedal in wrong place, or 2) spring around end of brake rod to frame location is wrong or 3) the spring is u/s albeit it's pretty robust or I'm an idiot!
(when I say spring I mean the top one on the brake rod arm that curls around the frame at the top end , not the spring on the adjuster for the brake rod.
Any advice would be welcome I've been at it off and on for 2 weeks and it's driving me mad!
49
« on: February 09, 2021, 06:39:22 PM »
I've purchased new coils for a rebuild but they come without plug gaps - the leads are a bit too long which poses 2 questions ?
1) Is it ok to just cut the length I require?
2) The plug cap looks like it has a thread screw arrangement in the end to join the HT lead - is it just a question of screwing it on?
The caps are new also.
Sounds like a no brainer but I'm not convinced, nothing else seems that straightforward!
50
« on: January 19, 2021, 02:13:24 PM »
Is it possible to just wire up a loom purely to test the engine without fully wiring up the rest eg lights, horn, indicators etc etc - have to ask as a senior family member of some years would love to see if it actually runs and as he's not been well it might cheer him up and stop him being sceptical of my mechanical ability or otherwise. If it can't be done I'll just have to crack on!
51
« on: January 07, 2021, 05:14:21 PM »
Hope everyone is ok, apart from confined to barracks, or unlike me decorating for SWMBO or has an unheated garage/workshop - which sweats like mad when I put the fan heater on! Must admit too damn cold to faff around in it at the moment. Just seems very quiet on here, sorry I've no queries but I'll see if I can find a few! 
52
« on: November 27, 2020, 06:37:06 PM »
Hello , just trying to fit clutch and it would appear I ought to be using the part ringed in blue (353) part # 45465370000 to be honest on my other 400/4 I don't have one fitted - it's listed as not available, would it's omission be an issue or is a generic part say for example US market?
53
« on: November 25, 2020, 03:07:40 PM »
Having replaced carbs , which were rebuilt some time ago I hasten to add, I thought I'd check the bowls didn't leak by rigging up portable petrol tank. i turned on tap with bated breath and yes the bowls etc do not leak!!
But there was petrol p*****g out from each carb overflow and even the 2 between carb 2 and 3 in the middle - any ideas! I suspect floats stuck but never done carbs before so any pointers would be great !
PS put that fag out!
54
« on: October 18, 2020, 04:50:28 PM »
At the risk of upsetting some people I want to fit a a mega exhaust , having purchased one from Modern motorcycle company - it arrived and build wise looks good BUT it doesn't seem to fit over the muffler gasket. The outside diameter of the muffler gasket from CSMNL is 49mm , I've read other threads where tit may be necessary to adjust the final fit! Am i correct that the muffler from the collector box goes over the collector box outlet but inside the silencer - in which case I'd need a 49mm silencer opening which doesn't seem available. If I adjust the gasket it will be so thin as to be of no use and would probable break, the internal diameter of the silencer is 46mm, is there an alternative to the gasket ? 
55
« on: September 26, 2020, 02:45:39 PM »
So after useful advice on re-spoking I carried on and all was going well until this happened, and it wasn't fully tensioned I reckon, any ideas for remedy or is it another rear rim time The shoulder of the nipple has pulled through the rim opening, it's a new rim so not used or corroded!
56
« on: September 24, 2020, 07:00:40 PM »
Having achieved an apparent success with the re-spoking of the front wheel I'm now working on the rear wheel and it's driving me nuts!
Bearing carry fitted and bearings/retainer etc - check
Wheel truing kit set level - check
Comfy seat-check
Radio on - check
Cuppa - check
Ciggies - check
So off we go! Having read numerous useful threads on here I gleaned that it may be better to try longitudinal runout first rather than radial, the problem is one side of the rim tends to be higher than the other , no matter which spokes I loosen or tighten, am I missing something? Or just doing it wrong?
57
« on: September 17, 2020, 05:14:22 PM »
I'm in the throes of building both wheels having I believe completed the front which runs true and balanced I've noticed the bearing spacer in the hub is loose and appears to rattle, I've not fitted tyres yet or put back in the forks - is this usual or have I missed something? Or does this tighten up when you fit to the forks? The bearing retainer is fully installed as well.
58
« on: August 31, 2020, 07:01:59 PM »
Of late I've noticed that due to Sussex poor roads that in certain situations the rear suspension appears to bottom out when riding over a big dip in the road. The suspension is set at it's hardest and from my checks the chain appears to be correctly adjusted. The shocks came with the bike and I've had it 13 years or so although they are not standard, the name on them is Oxon. Cornering and handling is fine , any thoughts? I know it's post lock down but I haven't put on that much weight!
59
« on: July 16, 2020, 10:57:35 AM »
Does anyone know what this does, it is shown as "rectifier assembly" on parts list but as I'm changing to rectifier/regulator combined unit should I remove this also? It's not shown on wiring diagram and has two wires from it , that are both red/green -also not on wiring diagram. I don't want to install new unit and blow it up or if I remove will that cause damage to new unit either.
60
« on: June 28, 2020, 06:33:02 PM »
Having been locked down and then trapping a sciatic nerve for weeks have been unable to ride and battery appeared to have died. So battery recharged but all is not well. Battery after charge read 12.35v, installed and run okay but horn wouldn't work when running but when engine off but ignition on would, for starters. So tried charging volt test as per Haynes manual(all I have) Results dont seem right
1200rpm (tickover) =12.34v
2000rpm = 12.2v
3000rpm =12.2v
4000rpm = 12.22
Lights on
1200rpm = 12.13v
2000rpm =12.6v
3000rpm = 15.5v
4000rpm = 12.3-15.5v (erratic)
With engine running and lights on voltage at same revs as above was consistent between 12.3 - 13.6v but when pressing horn just a faint short beep
I've checked continuity on horn -ok and cleaned up earth where bolted to coil on l/h/s of frame.
The rectifier has continuity too and the voltage regulator - gaps and connections appear in order.
The voltage regulator check mentioned in Haynes , is confusing me (attached) I believe I, need 2 meters -ammeter and volt meter ,as I only have a multimeter , am I reading it correctly?
Battery is a multi batt and my be 3-4 years old . Any ideas where to go next! Or is it just the battery!
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