This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Topics - billdn
76
« on: March 18, 2018, 05:05:09 PM »
while tinkering/fettling after all these years of owning the bike I've finally noticed this, just shows I've never used cam chain adjuster! probably seized anyway! it would appear previous owner/owners has carried out some sort of "mod" it uses an Allen bolt for the adjuster bolt and would appear to have a sort of pin drilled though - perhaps to lock it. I work on the principle of if it ain't broke don't fix it but any ideas? Bike runs fine as is by the way.
77
« on: March 13, 2018, 07:36:17 AM »
Are the CB 350 & 400 fuel tanks interchangeable? Reason for asking is that I have a second hand tank which is I believe for a 400/4. However after selling it the buyer contacted me to say it wouldn't fit his frame. Having sorted him I collected the tank from him, and as soon as I got home offered it up to my 400/4- and he's right 😒. Is it possibly a 350 tank ,it's about 10mm too narrow where it would locate on the rubbers below the headstock and snags the main frame tube. The tank doesn't appear bent or damaged so that it would have been compressed, any ideas?
78
« on: December 26, 2017, 11:54:05 AM »
Not withstanding my cylinder head troubles, my main ride also 400/4, has developed an oil leak below the barrels on the near side front-it seemed to appear after I used an oil flush when doing an oil change. It's not gushing out but weeps slowly and I now have a well oiled left boot. It then runs over the crankcase as the heat and wind disperses it. The big question is it an engine out job ? There is no loss in compression and starts and runs fine, unfortunately the scrutineer at Brands Hatch didn't like it so I couldn't take part in a VJMC paradeā¹ which is what motivates me to get it done. As far as I'm aware the engines never been out,40 year old nuts and bolts fills me with dread.
79
« on: December 19, 2017, 09:09:35 PM »
having had some helicoils replaced i tried to assemble rocker box apart from some helicoils coming loose (i'll deal with that guy later!).
however one of the rocker box bolts would not tighten. taking the rocker box off (again) i found this (see pics). i think the phrase according to James May is "oh cock" although i used stronger! and before anyone says it, yes i did have the torque at the right setting!
i guess find someone who does alloy welding and have it rebuilt or any other ideas?
80
« on: November 19, 2017, 03:36:25 PM »
I'm not that far off putting the engine back in the frame, at the moment the oil pan is not on, neither is the clutch assembly, starter motor, oil pump ands right/left hand crank case covers (at the polishers) or carbs. Obviously the engine is pigging heavy and to keep the weight down I thought I'd fit the aforementioned bits once in situ. Seems logical and looks like nothing will foul the frame if I do but I've a sneaky feeling I'm setting myself up for some problems. Any thoughts, anyone done it like this?
81
« on: September 03, 2017, 03:02:16 PM »
Anyone know where I can get 2 of the above. Part # 90101-377-000. Listed as unavailable on David Silver, Csmnl and Wemoto. Size 10 x 75mm . Would a normal bolt of required length and pitch do the job? Cable ties won't do it I guess 🙂
82
« on: August 13, 2017, 04:40:44 PM »
Following my earlier post on fitting rocker box and subsequent advice all went well..until..on tightening bolts down I noticed 1 nearest cam chain to rear wasn't tightening on cylinder head, yup the thread is stripped. I guess fit helicoil repair. And I suppose i need to remove cylinder head to do it. One step forward three back. Unless of course you sages know better!
83
« on: August 09, 2017, 12:38:59 PM »
After running out of funds back to the reassembly and yet again something isn't right! the rocker box doesn't sit flush on top of the head. I've checked it's not warped and all appears OK. the head is tightened down but the cover seems to be fouling on something or won't sit directly on. it's difficult to see what but when the crank is rotated it gives the impression that the cam lobes are sitting too high. i've checked and the cam is fully engaged in the head journals. is it just what happens until you tighten the rocker box down, i suspect it isn't. i've tried placing rocker box on a spare head without a cam in and it fits flush perfectly. any thoughts? 
84
« on: May 13, 2017, 07:13:57 PM »
can anyone explain installing the cam shaft on a 400/4. the engine is out of the frame and being reassembled on the bench. the Haynes manual procedure just will not work as the cam shaft will not go all the way through the sprocket with the chain on. it is a new linkless chain. a you tube clip i saw said to hold up chain, slide camshaft through and then slide on sprocket and put chain over - easy peasy i thought! however there just doesn't seem to be enough slack in the chain to get it over. i now have the camshaft half in and half out and the chain is so tight i'm afraid i'll break or stretch it. i've removed the cam guides front and rear to give a bit more room but to no avail. the flange on the shaft that the sprocket fits on fouls the bearing seat as well. any ideas. the chain was from David Silver so i guess should be the right length. Any ideas before i resort to the club hammer. Totally wrong but just feels satisfying! 
85
« on: March 21, 2017, 07:46:56 PM »
electrics is not my thing, so I've been following Mr Haynes/Clymer. i tested the three yellow wires as it says but the minimum value should be 0.65 ish so if i'm getting more than that averaging 1.0 -1.5 am i OK or is the coil kaput?
86
« on: March 21, 2017, 07:41:37 PM »
Is there a way of testing an oil pressure switch to see if it works. i appear to have continuity in the wire but not sure if the switch works. it is not a new part and is part of the very long rebuild re-using as many parts as i can .
87
« on: November 21, 2016, 04:58:39 PM »
i'm confused (again) i'm about to install new valves having inserted the valve guides. however i need a valve guide reamer which seem as rare as unicorn poo! the part no for a reamer is 07984-200-0001 but could be at least 8-10 weeks or longer from David Silver - i asked! but the Honda workshop manual i have shows 2 seperate reamers for exhaust AND inlet valves being 079843770000 and 079842000000 rspectively.
question is do i need the 2 seperate reamers or will one do the job, the valve stems look the same size and as there doesn't appear to be any reamers around has anyone got any tips on doing this without a reamer? a mate suggested running an old valve down the guide with grinding paste on it but i'm not sure.
88
« on: September 06, 2016, 09:07:39 PM »
probably old news for most of you but anyone got any tips on fitting gudgeon pin clips. i put the first one in on the piston before putting the pin in on con rod easy but obviously the next one has to go on in situ as it were. well i'm now short a gudgeon pin clip , it pinged out and shot out the workshop door and is some where out there! didn't know so much energy could be in such a small clip! there must be a trick somewhere I'm missing.at least i stuffed the holes with rags to stop it dropping into the engine. perhaps i'll close the workshop door next time!
89
« on: August 07, 2016, 07:32:06 PM »
i'm just reassembling a 400/4 engine and have got the crank cases together and the external selector mechanism, next stage is assembling the clutch. however my trusty Haynes manual says to try the gear selection mechanism - so with a pair of molegrips on the gear shift side i tried the gears and to be honest a bit chunky and clunky would be the best description. my question is is this normal and should I just carry on assembly or , and please dont say it, but do I need to split the crankcases again and sort the problem out. I feel i know the answer but i'm hoping i'm wrong. this is the first time i've ever done this so are there are tricks i've missed?
90
« on: December 03, 2013, 08:05:27 PM »
new to this so sorry if it's an old question. i'm doing a rebuild of a 400/4 from bits...an awful lot of bits! well it seemed a good idea at the time..i need black crankshaft bearing shells. sadly mr silver lists them as discontinued..argh does anyone know where i can source others. the part number is 13315333003. cheers Bill
|
Show Posts