Honda-SOHC

If it was mine I would take the system off and refit the points to prove the systems are good before going any further. That's what I did with mine to prove it was the Pamco and not the bike.

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I would say there's a reason beyond salesmanship why they insist you fit a new rec/reg or you don't get a warranty. Maybe there's enough voltage from the old bike system to light the led's but not enough to operate the system. It looks correctly fitted but it still ain't working. We don't know anything about the state of the bikes battery or system.

Mo. Any chance of a couple of photos under the seat.

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The one I fitted was my second system. The first was a Pamco unit that I spent an entire day fitting including making a special wire sub harness for. That sod didn't work at all so I understand how your feeling. To add to the pain the company ceased trading at the same time so no help or refund. That went in the bin and I bit the bullet and bought the Charlie's Place system.

Are you sure your electrical system on the bike is up to scratch as these systems are really sensitive to fluctuations in voltage. The standard bomber doesn't even have a regulator fitted and a 55 year old selenium rectifier and single phase alternator. This is why Common Motors insist that you fit their combined reg/rec. Sorry to say but this is beginning to look like another faulty electrical system, and not the ignition unit. Probably best contacting the supplier again for advice. I fitted a regulator from a later model and a modern solid state rectifier, along with a new Motobatt AGM battery, and a new wiring harness. I also have a NOS alternator rotor fitted as old ones can loose magnetism and directly affect charging. In other words I went through the entire system to get things to work correctly.

When your trying for a spark are you using the electric starter or the kickstart. The reason I asked about the battery being fully charged is that the system won't work correctly if the voltage drops. Using the electric starter will possibly drop the charge too low for the system to fire the coils?

I think we're all scrambling for ideas as trouble shooting electrical problems from afar is difficult.

Just wondering what triggers the sensor's. It looks like the standard points cam is left on. Is that correct. Every EI that I have ever dealt with, the centre cam on the advancer is changed for a magnetic trigger supplied with the kit. Don't understand that at all. Maybe why you have no spark as there's nothing to trigger the sensors. But then, maybe it's designed that way, and only Common Motors can answer that one. But I guess it's lighting the led's so it must be triggering but heaven only knows how.

Looks from their website that no rotor is supplied in the kit. Another thought, is the battery fully charged and the rectifier working okay. They have those horrible selenium rectifiers that tend to fail.
Also, according to the website you have no warranty unless you fit their regulator/rectifier.

My starting point would be the black earth cables on the mounting bracket. The one in the video has little chance of earthing as the frames paint is still on. Make up another wire from the same bolt and take it to the earth either on the loom or a good reliable earth on the frame somewhere. Suspect those dodgy red cable connectors as well.

Yes that was my problem on the Bomber. Unfortunately I ran out of adjustment. I considered filing the sides of the sensor plates to get them closer together but it would have made little to no difference as it was so close anyway. Bit of a design and manufacturing problem I think.

Now your asking a big question. From memory (it is quite a few years ago now) the K5 rotor and sprag clutch fits and the timing marks should be the same. That said, there are a few engines out there with a different crank configuration that were used mainly on the police specials. They are that rare I doubt you would have one of those.  So if the rotor is correct but still doesn't line up correctly something else is amiss. You didn't say what work has been carried out on the engine? Is it possible that the cam chain is maybe a tooth or two out that would put the cam out of sync with the crank. There are timing marks on the camshaft that need to line up, I would check that first. Also check that when the TDC mark on the rotor is set that the piston is actually at TDC.

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I used a "Charlies Place" electronic ignition, and to get the timing correct it was right at the end of it's adjustment. I never did get to the bottom of why that was as it ran well in that position. But there really was no adjustment left. Just a thought, is it possible to get back to the points setup and see if all is okay, or was it already running on points before you decided to fit the electronic. As I said, you didn't mention the bikes history before you attempted to fi the new unit.

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