Honda-SOHC

I was looking at the above part described as a "Heat Shield" for the fuel pipe - it got me thinking as to how it worked - being steel would it not attract the heat due to it's conductivity?
Mine is missing it got me thinking was this originally designed for the old clear plastic type fuel pipe to stop it going out of shape?
Is there a SS alternative on the market that anyone has used?

When my 400 rebuild project is completed hopefully in the next few weeks (Phase 1) I will have the what to do next syndrome this summer.
Not sure if I have the energy for a new build this year plus sensible project starting prices  are getting harder to find.
Do I keep my spare engine in the garage as it is unrestored or do I dismantle it and rebuild it just in case?

What is easier to sell on - an assembled unrestored engine, one in bits, or a restored unit?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115340125474?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Saw this anyone here?

s-l1600 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234445612964?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I like the look of it sooo retro.

Whilst working on my timing this afternoon I briefly got confused with where TDC is I started to use the 1-4 double mark on the right instead of the "T" on the far left.

That got me thinking if I could have made a similar mistake when I fitted the camshaft in place - I probably did not but I am concerned enough to need to double check.

Is it possible to check the valve timing without having to remove the top cover?

Despite having previously having installed the Dynatek Electronic Ignition (2020)and had the engine running I've basically forgot how I did the static set up so read the instructions and confused myself completely. I know to start with No:1 cylinder at TDC both valves closed on compression.

Quote from instructions:-

A) The left module fires cylinders 1-4 the right module fires cylinders 2-3 each provides an adjustment +/- 10 deg of adjustment. Moving them counterclockwise advances the timing and clockwise retards the timing. (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

B) All timing adjustments should be made using the advance timing marks on the advance assembly.  (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

1.To time the engine statically, connect a 12 volt test light from the junction of the blue coil wires to ground, Do not disconnect the wires. Use a wrench on the advance assembly hex washer to rotate the emgine. (YEP UNDERSTAND THAT)

2. Turn ignition switch ON. While holding the rotor in the fully advanced position (clockwise), slowly rotate the engine forward until the test light turns on. The right hand  advance mark for cylinders 1-4 should align with the fixed mark on the engine case, (CONFUSED)

(Similarly repeat for cylinders 2-3 OKAY)

The bit that has me stumped is as I am holding the rotor fully clockwise against the springs what is meant by "slowly rotate the engine forward" As I am looking at the engine from the timing plate side is forwards clockwise or anticlockwise?
 
I thought the engine rotates clockwise when running looking from the generator side of the bike - this means the engine is rotating counter-clockwise looking at it from the old points side.

So the question is does this mean I rotate the engine anticlockwise whilst holding the rotor fully wound clockwise to align the timing marks?

When I purchased my 400 the wiring loom was not really fitted as such - more thrown into place.

Yesterday when I came to tidy up the area to the front left side of the petrol tank area where loom meets handlebar switch cables the mini wiring strap was all sort of wrong so I am not happy with the loom route as it is.

I looked at some schematic loom diagrams I had downloaded from the internet.  I noticed that in the diagrams it shows the main loom where it passes under the petrol tank going over the top of the left side coil - presumably to keep away from engine heat?

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct route please before I hitch the loom above the LHS coil ?

Lastly at the rear does the rear brake light switch connect to the loom by crossing the back of the rear mudguard where it connects into the loom?
Again some photos show the rear brake light switch connecting on the right hand side of the bike with the loom split forking onto the RHS cover area?

My none standard headlamp on my 400/4 is fitted with a fairly standard H4 halogen bulb in December 2020 I purchased a LED replacement from e-bay branded a Bevinsee unit @ £7.99.
Whilst doing my wiring it worked fine they are not polarity specific - after about 3 lots of 5 second testing it worked fine - now its dud - I've tested it directly to a battery its blown.
In the past I have bought quite a few from China for our old Jeep and had no issues.

All my clock dial LED's I bought from Classic Car leds they have been fine - I priced a H4 from them (currently out of stock) they are £30.32 each plus delivery probably. Have folk here used reliable cheaper sources for LED bulbs or do I bite the bullet for better quality ?

My experience with e-bay warranties on Ni-Cad batteries in the recent past has taught me they are worthless.

At present my starter lead is not connected as I do not want to turn the engine over whilst doing my wiring loom connections.
Most of my wiring loom is connected up and working as it should with just the horn to finally wire up plus  power to the electronic ignition.

When I have the bike in neutral the green neutral indicator illuminates up as it should with the ignition on - if I press the start button I can hear the starter solenoid click. I have checked wiring to the solenoid and also that the new clutch switch works in terms of making a circuit when the lever is operated.

If I put the bike in gear then pull in the clutch lever then operate the starter button it does not click. In this circuit is the Diode that plugs into the loom circuit fed by a green wire/red trace and pale green/red trace involved?

No idea what this little plug in diode does - is there a way to test it / can this fail causing my clutch switch circuit to not work as it should?

As an after thought could it be something as simple as the cable from the battery being bolted onto the wrong side of the solenoid as the green/red trace connection goes straight into the solenoid wheras the other connection is bolted on with the power lead from the battery?