Honda-SOHC

I'm planning to take my 500 hubs to CWC for the wheel builds in the next few weeks.
Chatting to them a couple of weeks ago they seemed to be pushing for Ceracoat rather than a chrome finish powder coating.
One aspect was that it is thinner & hard wearing.

That had me thinking about how far the coating should go on the disc side & on the Speedometer drive side. Obviuosly not on the taper where the disc fits - would it be an issue if on the speedometer drive side they did the face where the drive plate sits?


.500 brake disc side by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr


.500 speedo side by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Wendy & I fancy a trip by train to Scotland on a sleeper type holiday for a few days next summer.

Has anyone here any pointers or experience?

My 500 clearly had some damp or rain exposure as this is the chain that was new about 2 years ago now - it has covered less than 50 miles.

The outside part of the chain has surface rust, the inside is almost rust free - is it worth cleaning it up & using it?
I guess the blue appearance of the chain will be gone once I remove the surface rust with rust remover.

It's more of a safety question than cosmetics - I have new sprockets.


.side b by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

.side a by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

I fitted the DS front fender as my original one was rotted out - I did drill out the main top brace/bracket if it is of use to anyone - free just postage cost.

I also have the stays but due to length postage might not be worthwhile to anyone.

I'm hoping my BiL has a set I can borrow in the new year so I can improve on bench sync process on the 500.

I've looked at previous posts as to reasonable quality gauges but quoted item numbers are out of date. My Ultrasound Bath is a Vevor - still going strong so wondered if anyone here has used these?

.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204051398442

I have had to move the circlips to the central position 3 on my 500 carbs. I was able to remove the two screws at the base of the slider/plunger without the need to remove the plunger arm from the slider first. I just removed the bolt at the pivot end and slid out the the gubbins.

Many folk here will know how fiddly it is putting the two screws back in place with the arm still in place so thought I would share my tip here. As a former Tropical fish keeper I still have odd bits of Neoprene & Silicone air line pipe (5.5mm ish o/d) in my garage. plus an old bit of steel similar to a barbecue skewer.

The Silicone tubing I found best as it was easy to push the head of the screw into the pipe so you have a length of tubing that will easily reach the bottom of the slider. I then placed a metal rod that was a loose fit inside the pipe to give the pipe a little rigidity.

This enabled me to place the screws visually in line with the thread in the slider - by turning the pipe with my fingers it was very easy to screw them in with no fear of a crossed thread. When both were in place fully screwed down by just using the pipe I was able to easily nip them up with a JIS tool. The Silicone pipe is easily pulled off the screw head when it is done with.

This tip is for us amateurs not the former professional here.


.PXL_20231013_095540299 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

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Is there an easy way to remove the coating on my rear wheel sprocket cover at home?

Not sure tbh but I think it is Chrome but could be BZP would Harpic 10 remove the coating?

s-l1600 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
Bike Restorers biggist fear:

When you die, your wife will sell your bikes for  what you told her they cost.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY