Honda-SOHC

The two dowel pins that fit in the crankcase halves - mine are both what I would describe as a solid slug type not the hollow tube type like my 400 was.

I have some spare hollow types is one any better than the other?

Just removed the circlip to check the primary drive cushions - they are very hard so I intend to replace them when my parts arrive from DS.

When I dismantled the primary drive it came out like in the picture when I drifted out one bearing, the second  bearing  is still on the shaft.

What is the best way to re-assemble this when I eventually fasten up the crank cases?

.primary drive hub by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

The oil guide is a bit out of shape at the end but otherwise seems useable - the earlier type 11203-323-000 is available but priced at a hefty £30.85 to order from DS.

My later engine number (CB500E-2010986) should have 11203-323-010 that appears to be  no longer available.
TBH I do not know what part I have it was retained in the old engine casing by the threaded bolt - manual shows a self taper 5x16 - my casing does not have a 5 mm thread so intend to fit  the correct  taper screw.

The guide looks as though it diverts oil to the main shaft needle roller bearing. Will I be okay to re-fit the oil guide - if not would the earlier part number fit?


..
'PXL_20230519_113027305 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Today I cut the spokes out of the old wheels with my mates  angle grinder - point of no return - I will now  need to have them rebuilt in the colour of my choice - not Nut Brown not available - might treat myself to Gold Anodised Alloys - undecided atm. I have plenty of time to save up and keep CWC in business. 

The front hub was pretty much as it should be - the rear hub had a number of spoke rub marks on both sides of the hub.
What causes this to happen?

So I spotted a scratched 3 on a selector fork so by deduction & looking at my pics fitted the left fork then middle fork etc in place.

When I checked my photos taken before I removed the shaft the odd casting mark on the right hand fork was now on the left. 
I should have recorded the casting numbers but didn't. I'm assuming that the two outer selector forks are different
So removed the selector forks & tried again so the fork positions tally with my original picture. Not sure if there is a way of telling the difference between forks 1 & 3.
Not tried to fit a gear shaft yet as I don't want to get ahead of myself or damage anything.

Does the photo of my selector forks taken from the rear of the upside down casing look correct? 
I used the orientation of the clips as per the Haynes manual.

Checked the parts book the K1 appears to have two right selector forks for the K1

.
500 selector forks by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

I know about the the thread being a left hand one on the rear wheel bearing retainer  - is there any staking as well or is the LH thread all it needs to stay in place?

Might seem an odd question but is the thread of the front hub bearing retainer on a 500 the same thread as the 400?

I am aware that the slots for the wheel bearing  removal tool are a different spacing on the 400 & 500's.

I can't seem to find  part numbers for the two oil seals in the spedo drive unit.

The larger seal is NOK marked  AE 1967E with no size  the smaller seal at the drive output end is marked Ars 13  50 or SO  4,8  & 4.
Does anyone know part numbers & a source please?

Update: I think the larger seal might be the same as for my 400 - OS 34 x 48 x 7 R32 double lipped seal - not expensive.