Honda-SOHC

Indicators working again, just needed a battery charge. Shiny bits; Sorry this is going to be a bit long winded. Because I had to replace the clutch casing, and the only one available has been chromed, and most of the chrome has peeled off, this has got me thinking about a few points regarding shiny bits. Also how much I don't know. I had thought that my original clutch case was chromed but now I believe it is actually polished aluminium. So then must be the cover on the other side of the bike which hides the starter motor and sprocket. Whereas the points cover is chrome plated steel? Same for the chain guard? This came to light when I asked for a quote to chrome my new clutch case, as it's obvious I can't shift all of the chrome off it. The chromer said he wouldn't chrome aluminium, but he gave me a quote to strip the chrome, £30, and also if needed, polishing for another £30. This seems the right way to go as mentioned above it would then match the left hand cover which, I believe is polished. So now I'm thinking, I have no idea what was standard for these bikes. Was it polished aluminium and chromed steel or some other combination. If you've managed to make sense of all this well done and thanks for reading. Any insights would be appreciated. Link to my existing shiny bits below. First image is the original clutch cover and second is the chromed replacement.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FQN5o5L5N3o9nGWa9

Do it. Avoid nightfall and mud. Have a mirror though as you'll need to look out for the rozzers.

Thanks Ted. I haven't installed an inline filter. I did fit a new filter in the tank as it was part of the service kit from DS as the tap was leaking. I think you did the same? So far the tap is leak free and it turns fine. I did fit the 2 O rings as recommended by DS. So the list of what I have done so far is:
Fix leaking fuel tap
Evaporust treat the tank
Fit a new battery
Get the front brake "working", more to do there
Replace the broken clutch case with a second hand one
Install replacement clutch actuator thrust bearings
Get the indicators working, they have since stopped so more to there also!
Go for a test ride

I'd like to go for another test ride to get more of a feel for how the the bike is running before starting to take it to bits, so priorities now are, improve front brake, new pads and adjust the gap between the floating pad and the disc, something I haven't got my head around yet. Get the indicators working again. Fit a mirror on the rhs will means tapping out the master cylinder mirror stem hole. If I fudge that up then I'll probably buy the DS Master Cylinder which is cheap. I'm pretty sure both mirrors are original however the right hand one is missing most of it's thread, it was in the MC. It's a shame as the left hand one is in amazing condition for something so old.

Red Letter Day. Engine started after just 3 attempts. Soon warms up and choke reduced then off after a very short time. So far so good. After running for a couple of minutes revs' started to rise up to 3000. Switch off, try again, same issue. Start think that the helmet laying on the floor ready is hopelessly optimistic. I did have the bike running a month ago and hadn't touched anything that would directly affect things. Head scratch and start thinking well here's the first sign that I'm going to have to get serious with the carb's and then thought let's try the idle screw and holy moly a less than a quarter turn and the tick over settled down fine. Helmet on let's go. Tried the brakes and wow the back one locks the wheel easily on our recently resurfaced street. Just as well because the front brake is, struggling for the right words, ineffective, hopeless, only for the brave etc. Anyway brakes tested and onto the main road with no dramas, rode through all the gears up and down, kept the rev's below 5000. Front end somewhat bouncy but overall one of those smile on your face moments. Checked the voltage on my return and it was giving 14.5v at about 1500  - 2000 rpm. Relax for a bit and chew on what to do next. Remember to turn petrol tap off. Have been reading engine full of fuel and seized up thread. I'll just go and check that tap is still off.

Back from the road test, oil catcher at the ready.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJrerK3GnwM7fq7U7

Sean I can see that you have a double spring on there. I think I need to scour the garage floor.

Took the first dowel out using a drill chuck and bolt through it, it came out stupidly easy as it turns out. The chuck did squash the dowel a little so if I do that again, I'll wrap the screw in tape or perhaps find a close fitting drill bit. Anyhow, suitably confident that these dowels might not be in tight I removed the next one with pliers with little effort and no damage. Got the kick start oil seal out in semi reasonable condition as it is going to be used in the new case just for a short run before the engine strip down. The replacement case already had a seal in it where the clutch thrust bolt comes through. The ball bearings are very knackered so I've sourced a replacement from Julie.

Another Squirrel population reducer, Millie our rescued lurcher.

My plan A involved using a £3 3V aquarium pump with a stream of Evaporust directed over the upper part of the tank, the bit that rises up over the frame and is the hardest part to cover with the treatment. Whichever way you position the 14L tank it's impossible to cover with 5L of liquid. Very Heath Robinson and eventually I gave up, choosing instead to put 20kg of washed, dried pea gravel in to occupy the space. Then the 5L of liquid sat above the ridge with the tank tilted slightly forward. I didn't slosh the gravel around I just used it to occupy volume. I emptied the tank after 3 days then washed out with water, dried using my bike/dog dryer. Then I put in a mix of petrol and oil for temporary protection as I intend to use the tank soon for a road test. When I take the tank off prior to restoration I'll probably protect it with ACF50 as this stuff really sticks.