Honda-SOHC

Mmm, I seen to have lost the following:

1. 2 off nuts from the choke control rods (slim M7)
2. 2 off caps that are on the same shaft that retain the felt washers.

Anyone got those parts they want to part with?

Matt

I decided to re-plate a few parts yesterday and I thought I would yellow passivate the relevant carb parts. The results were poor and dull, so I tried blue passivate followed immediately followed by the yellow - and the results were fine.

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As you can see it turned out OK but I've probably done something you shouldn't!! (In fact I removed the old yellow passivate in the acid bath and quickly re-passivated  - again, probably a no no!  )

Anyone tried a water based lacquer on the passivate - supposedly allows it to last 10 times longer - I will research this....
Matt

Well, I've spent too long looking for the 4 screws that secure the dial to the mechanism
Anyone know the size of the thread. It looks like M2 but could be M2.2

Of course, once sourced and fitted, the little blighters will surface!!
Matt

I'm fairly certain the spare set of carbs I have (that are in the process of being restored) have never been opened up. On dismantling there are a couple of jets that look very strange.
They are straight but the 'holes' look to be crushed - most peculiar.  I hope you can see from the photo attached. Any thoughts? Needless to say they won't be going back in!
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Matt

When fitting s/steel fasteners to our bikes, do most of you use a copper based ant-seize grease or a nickel based one.

I have been using Copaslip for years but wondered if Nickelslip or similar was a better option....

Matt

Could someone tell me how long these lines are that are labelled (2)
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Do they just 'dangle down' in case of an overflow?
Item (1) was very hard and difficult to remove but I can replicate that one easily.
Matt

Is the part highlighted in the section of the parts diagram below a foam pad (or similar)? Nothing installed in my bike.....
Matt

Hi, Is it possible to fit the silencer to a 400/4 with the down pipes installed or is it best to work from the silencer back to the cyl head?
I ask as I'm struggling to get the silencer 'aperture' (where the captive nuts are) over the frame loop. I have managed to sort the packing sleeve out on the silencer but I'm struggling to get the unit into position with the down pipes on the bike.
Matt