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Messages - Rob62

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16
Misc / Open / Re: Exhaust gas analyser
« on: January 09, 2021, 04:55:19 PM »
It could be done but the best way to analyse the gasses is to put it on a dyno, preferably somebody you know and trust and is into his classic bikes. You need to analyse the gasses at various engine loads and speeds to get it right... I recently had one of my classic 2 strokes on a dyno, the level of info and setup that can be achieved is amazing... there’s no way you could match it with traditional tuning methods. Fortunately the dyno belonged to a good friend of mine who specialises in setting up classic 2 strokes. I was never keen on the idea until i finally bit the bullet but now I am a massive convert.

17
Other Bikes / Re: Basket Case Yamaha XS 250
« on: January 01, 2021, 12:00:18 AM »
And the 2 strokes still had more than a decade of astonishing development and exciting biking in them before finally being phased out... starting with the iconic LC and then it’s YPVS derivatives before finally bowing out with the parallel twin TZR’s in the UK... By that time the R1 was in the pipeline so not much reason for Yamaha to be sulking as far as producing exciting performance motorcycles is concerned  ;) ;) ;)

18
Other Bikes / Re: Basket Case Yamaha XS 250
« on: December 31, 2020, 08:19:42 PM »
I don’t think any of the 4 stroke 250’s were exactly rapid back in the day...  not compared to the RD’s and X7’s.. I remember lusting after a superdream when I was 17 (I had a CB100N at the time), when I finally got to have a go one one a few years later I remember it being almost moped like! At least they looked good, the XS was always a bit of an ugly duckling but I sort of quite like them these days... the late 70’s models.
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_xs250%2078.htm

19
Other Bikes / Re: Basket Case Yamaha XS 250
« on: December 30, 2020, 09:43:14 PM »
Quite a rare classic these days, popular enough back in the day but you never see them out and about these days. I see lots of jap classics at squires cafe, its a popular venue for classic bike enthusiasts but I don’t remember seeing any XS250’s... should be a bit of a celebrity when you finally get out on her.. good luck and more photo’s please.

20
I don’t get an itchy nose but i used to get an annoying itch in my ears nearly every time i set off riding....usually within 2 mins, and i had to stop and take my lid off and have a right good wiggle before resuming... then all would be ok. But earlier this year i bought a new lid and after a few weeks i suddenly noticed that my itchy lug problems had all gone away. My old lid was a Bell and the new one is an HJC rpha11.. I must say, as well as being much more comfortable, the HJC is miles superior to the Bell, which is only a year old but I never gelled with it....noisy, itchy lugs and when it was brand new, excess glue on my hands when putting it on.... a big disappointment, but the HJC is on another level.

21
Anorak's Corner / Re: New DVLA rules on black & white No plates
« on: December 13, 2020, 09:46:05 PM »

[/quote]

So was the front front number plate should people have to re fit those, and don't use the safety argument as there are a lot of sharp parts at the front of older vehicles.
Personally i don't give a stuff what number plate anyone uses its their bike and was never part of the bike originally. You must find it difficult going to any sort of bike gathering if you find it repulsive as b&w plates are everywhere now.
[/quote]
Well said Moorey... too many classic-bike police out there, each to his own I say

22
CB350/400 / Re: Storage for Winter
« on: December 03, 2020, 09:14:15 PM »
For mine i just drain the carbs and spray all the brightwork with moisture repelling spray, i have used various types all with success.. ideally remove the front brake pads first or cover discs with a poly bag.. i dont remove the battery but i think its a good idea... i like to run the motors ip a few times during the winter, make sure fully up to temp though otherwise you fill the exhaust with moisture...

23
CB750 / Re: Dry sump!
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:09:50 PM »
I dont think you can tell straight after firing up...but once its been running a bit and you look into the top of the tank you will see some foaming as the oil returns....

24
CB750 / Re: Exhausted working this problem.
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:07:51 PM »
They are available by the way... if anyone wants them  :)

25
CB750 / Re: Exhausted working this problem.
« on: November 22, 2020, 12:02:44 PM »
Are they like these? These are jardine 4 into 2’s. As you can see the 2 and 3 cyl go to the left pipe and the 1 and 4 go to the right..


26
CB750 / Re: Dry sump!
« on: November 22, 2020, 11:53:27 AM »
Sounds like you may be making it more complicated than it is. The pump controls the oil, all you need to do is fill the tank with the specified amount, run the motor and check that the pump is working (you can see the oil returning to the tank and foaming slightly with the cap removed) and then when its all cooled down re check the level....

27
CB500/550 / Re: New 550 K3-owner. Whats with the decor?
« on: September 08, 2020, 10:55:57 PM »
Hi mastrup, I have seen new replica seats for sale but I can’t remember exactly where. Could’ve been DS or wemoto but there are other potential sources; cmsl, 4into1 etc.. I would check them all before buying from DS..

28
CB500/550 / Re: New 550 K3-owner. Whats with the decor?
« on: September 08, 2020, 08:01:54 PM »
Spot on, i quite like the paintwork, not for the purist but looks tidy enough. Not so keen on the seat but that’s an easy fix.... either a nice new replica or a giuliari style replica would look cool..😎... ps it sounds nice too!

29
As already stated, have a good clean round the area to degrease it so that you can determine exactly where the oil is coming from. Once you are sure its the oil seal you should be able to carefully prise it out either by drilling a small hole and screwing in a self tapping screw and then using this to pull, or my preferred option (less trouble) to carefully punch a small hole with a narrow flat bladed screwdriver and hammer and then prise it out... a hole at each side will help. Clean the whole area before refitting the new seal. As far as the seal is concerned you can buy good quality japanese or european lip seals from any industrial bearing supplier, usually over the counter, for just a few pounds. Get a couple of spares while you are there. When you come to refit the new seal be careful not to damage the lip of the seal on the sharp edges of the drive shaft (if you do you can go straight to the spare you just bought rather than back to the shop). You can wrap a length of sellotape over the splines to protect the lips and also use plenty of lithium grease to slide it over. You should be able to press the seal in by hand at least to get it started, then use a piece of tubing (without sharp edges) to gently tap it home. The concave side of the seal should face inwards. If you dont have any tube then use a flat ended punch or drift and gently tap whilst working around the edges of the seal to ensure it goes in flat and even. Good luck. Don't split the cases as that is an unnecessary waste of effort.

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