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Topics - Gary400/4

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CB500/550 / CB550/4K engine strip, Bore scratch
« on: February 19, 2024, 10:53:44 PM »
Hello all, I have recently acquired a CB550/4 K project bike to sort out, I have owned these previously and enjoy them more than the CB400/4.
I have stripped the engine to check it over, the engine was literally seized together, it took a lot of effort to remove the cylinder head, the cylinder barrel had accumulation deposits around the front barrel studs. I ended up with a few chipped fins. On inspection of the cylinder bores, the piston ring end gaps were still in service, but not by a lot, so I have purchased a new set of standard rings. On inspection of one of the bores, I note that a scratch is evident about 1cm long by 1mm deep running horizontal in the cylinder wall. I will be honing the bores to help the new rings to bed in. But I am worried about a ring getting snagged on the scratch as it motions up and down at revs. Is this something to be alarmed about?

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CB350/400 / None returning gear lever issue
« on: May 12, 2022, 10:23:12 PM »
I am having an issue with my gear lever sticking in the up position meaning I cannot change gear. If I release the clutch cover Allen bolts a tad. The spring return allows my gear lever to return to usability again. I am wondering how much clearance there is by the clutch cover to a point of contact within impacting upon my gear changing mechanism. I have just changed my clutch thrust washer, given my old was very worn. Thinking that allowed my clutch drum to come in to far. Could it be the clutch cover gasket thickness. I have made my own using Flexoid gasket paper, it is quite thin? Any ideas most welcome. I had to forgo the recent NABD rally because I couldn't change gear out of 2nd.

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CB350/400 / Carburettors tickover too high, at 4000 rpm?
« on: July 07, 2021, 07:36:50 PM »
I have taken my cb400/4 carburettors off a number of times to fully overhaul them. I have just replaced the main jets,emulsion tubes, throttle needle, set on third groove. Float needle valve and seats. Running a standard airbox, Throttle slides set at 1 mm at wide open throttle, seen from air intake side. The push cable distance set at 56mm, The carb kit I've purchased is from Red brain Honda eBay shop. I haven't got any obvious air leaks, my carb rubber intakes are not split and securely clamped, as well as the air filter ones.I have used the Haynes CB550 400/4 for reference data. To set the carbs. I am starting to suspect the information I am reading. Is there any Honda technical data.

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CB350/400 / Disconcerting clutch rattle
« on: October 18, 2019, 06:30:08 PM »
Hi everyone, good news and not so good news. I've got my 400/4 running firing on all 4 cylinders. Albeit with a bit of fuel leakage from one carburettor. It was holding steady on idle with a bit of choke on. At 1200 rpm I slackened the cam chain adjuster bolt to take up the slack. This quitened the engine noticeably. However, the quiet running was being punctuated with an annoying, Clutch rattle, which quietened when I pulled the lever in. I daresay when the bike is running in gear this intrusion won't be noticeable? I am not far off the limit on clutch adjustment, and I am presuming my clutch friction plates and any thrust washers are getting past their best. Time to buy replacements?

Gary

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CB350/400 / My ignition is sparking across my plugs now
« on: October 13, 2019, 07:38:41 PM »
Many thanks to the forum for all the pearls of wisdom, for my ignition dilemma. With what has been aforementioned, taking heed of this, concerning testing for insulation across my open and closed points. I am happy to state, that after taking my points terminations apart, and smearing silicon sealant in and around the hole in the tab that the terminal bolt passes through a couple of days ago. I can now confirm that testing across open and closed points with ignition leads and condensors removed. That the points are reading upon a continuity scale on a test meter. Open at infinity no circuit between the moveble point contact and ground. The moment the F1-4 mark aligned with the index mark. It remained open to the point the F2-3 F mark came around to align with the index mark. The points 1-4 went closed circuit until 180 degrees later when the F1-4 mark came around to align with the index. When they went open circuit.
This is a change from what was happening before which prompted me to sign up to the forum.

Bouyed by this I tested for a spark across  a plug to ground, on both coils. Given the daylight was becoming dusk. I fitted a charged car battery with attached jump leads to my battery HT cables. I turned on the ignition, pressed the starter button, the engine spun over rapidly. Oil light went out and I saw faint sparks going across the electrode on my test spark plug. The fact they are faint is because the condensers are preventing arcing, the speed the engine was being turned over, the gap across the tip of the plug. If it is normal for a weak looking spark. I will put the tank on tomorrow and put fuel in and try to get it to run? One more thing, I am concerned there is too much suppression on the coil HT leads. The fact is the plugs are R type NGK with a 5 kohm resistor built in and the suppressor caps are also 5kohm resistor meaning each coil is subjected to 10kohm additional resistance.is this a cause for concern?

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CB350/400 / No ignition sparks at the plugs
« on: October 07, 2019, 11:46:44 AM »
Hello all, I have been toiling away over a couple of years in my shed resurrecting a forlorn cb400/4. The problem I now have is trying to get it to run. Engine is rebuilt, good compression engine turns over on the starter motor. I have 11.7 V measured at my ignition points terminal. This means current has flowed through my primary windings in my coils then out on to my yellow and blue wires. I can manually open the points to obtain a spark across them. The points are timed to start to open at the F1-4 and F2-3 marks. I have fitted new capacitors. Points gap set at 14thou of an inch.
The coils are Tec FL703 type, the primary resistance measured at approx 5.5ohms the secondary windings measure at approx 12Kohm. Without suppressor plug caps.
I have also noted that when the points open, if a analogue meter is used the pointer will drop towards zero. If I use a digital meter. The low resistance across a closed set of points should go quite high in terms of open circuit resistance, when the points open. But I am detecting 7 ohms of continuing continuity. Suggesting a resistive open circuit short circuit to ground. This has me thinking this is offering my ignition voltage  a low resistance path to ground, lower than having to energise a collapsing electrical field inducing an emf into the coil secondary windings. It's all well and good putting new coils on, I am not 100% convinced that will solve my lack of spark problem.
On the points, I do wonder if the tiny insulting ring that passes through the the terminal screw tab, and has insulated discs either side, can loose some resistance.

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