Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: UK Pete on October 28, 2012, 07:01:11 PM
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Hi all , i have been thinking as to which way i shall proceed with my K0 at first i was going to get it MOT'd register it and ride it as is for a year or so while i have a chance to gather parts to restore, but on closer inspection i have found the front end needs a total overhaul, so does the back end (swing arm bushes, missing spoke in rear wheel), and even worse the engine leaks oil from the cylinder head quite badly, so it is pretty much decided that i will tear it down and get stuck in with a restoration now rather than later, To kick things off i got the bike running , just needed a bit of work on the carbs, then rode the bike around to get the feel what was in need of doing, that is when it became apparent that both front and rear ends were bad, and it was clear the oil leak was more than just a drip, i cleaned up any chrome bits to access what was salvagable and what was to replace, it tuns out the double cut front guard is really solid with speckles of rust and a couple of small dings that are easily repaired, so that is on the re-chrome list
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/074.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/077.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/076.jpg)
The rear guard is also in reasonable shape, and being the original well worth salvaging so that is also on the re-chrome list, again like the front it has a bit of mild surface rust , and a few dents, but the dents are where the rear light has been knocked and so are mostly hidden, the underside has been protected with some sort of wax oil and is really well preserved, as for the rear light bracket i have A NOS bracket, and chrome rear light back, the original lens is salvageble with a bit of polishing so all is good
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/059.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/060.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/062.jpg)
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So glad the metalwork is solid for you, looking forward to another of your detailed restorations, be sure to keep us all posted with progress, makes compulsive reading! ;D
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I don't know how you get through so much stuff Pete.
A very interesting project though and like others I'm looking forwrd to see how it comes along as well.
The rear mudgaurd looks quite good considering the age of it, also looks like you can get to the back of those small dents to correct it if you want to. I've seen someone virtually push things like that out by hand but using a "spoon" from a panelbeaters set as opposed to thumping it.
It's a nice bike to own, so hope you get a good run at it.
Nigel.
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Thanks guys i will try and keep it interesting, doing this sort of thread is also good for my own refference, so bear with me with some of the uninteresting pictures
The top tree is all intact it will just need a quick sandblast and a re-spray , i do belive that on this model it is satin black
The chrome bolts and nuts are mostly salvageble with ok chrome, however thinking logicaly it is right where i will be staring below the clocks so i will get New ones as they are cheap enough, this also applies to the fork top nuts they will also be new,
DS does a well priced reproduction set of bars for this USA model, so they are also on the list to replace , obviously there will be new grips, levers and switch gear are ok and will be reconditioned, new mirrors are also on the buy list
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/087.jpg)
Note the nice original black kill switch knob, there are reproduction ones available , but i feel this one deserves to stay after all it is only faded other than that it is a good original part
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/069.jpg)
Front light shell is well beyond repair being split and fiberglassed back together, i will try and find a Original Honda one but the DS aftermarket ones are great quality and a fraction of the price so DS it might just be
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/068.jpg)
the light lens and reaining hardware is well good, i will just replace the front chrome rim
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/067.jpg)
oh yes before anyone asks my trusty assistant will be helping me out wth this build, some of you may remember him, here he is fetching me a knife and mudguard
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/CAFE%20PROJECT/PICT6788.jpg)
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Good stuff Pete. Nice to see that most of the parts are salvagable. Keep the pictures coming.
As you probably already know, loads of pics are a real boom when you have to put it all back together.
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That looks tidy for its age,looking forward to seeing the end result !!!!
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More pictures of the strip down
Short plastic chain guard, it is all there, in dirty but good condition, luckily as reproduction ones are almost £200
originals very hard to come by
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/088.jpg)
Front brake all in good condition, just a bit of fading to the anodised parts
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/084.jpg)
the original no 8 bolts in great condition, they will clean up nicely so a few less to zinc plate
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/082.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/002-1.jpg)
Coils looking a bit worse for wear but considering the bike ticked over like a swiss watch at only 800 rpm, and reved cleanly from there upwards means to me they are worth keeping and restoring
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/081.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/080.jpg)
Original airbox, looks to be repairable , although i do have a nice new LPM one which i might use
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/071.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/072.jpg)
More of those lovely no 8 bolts, i think they were only on the pre K1 models
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/056.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/055.jpg)
Rear indicators and mountings , amazing condition, perfectly usable, just need to paint the brackets
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/054.jpg)
Carbs with the 4 seperate cables, apparently a bit awkward to set up properly,, but all there and working good
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/052.jpg)
Surprisingly all the electrics worked faultlessly, but i will have my work cut out restoring this lot
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/048.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/049.jpg)
Swing arm a bit of rust , but structuraly sound
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/014.jpg)
Swing arm bearings are metal in this one, and were a real pig to get out
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/011.jpg)
Front forks , need total overhaul, the chrome is good , but strangely Honda chose to only chrome the area of travel, the rest is bare steel so it goes rusty
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/010.jpg)
Fork internals, had a right job getting one of the retaining circlips out, also they had a mix of water and very smelly discoloured oil in them
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/005-1.jpg)
Engine out, i opted for the easy way lay the frame on its side and remove bolts and lift away from engine,
the engine is bit oily but it ran really sweet with no smoke, all the fins are in tact, but it leaks oil from the head quite badly, this will have a total strip paint and be fully reconditioned
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/006.jpg)
Frame had some rust but mostly surface, just a couple of pin holes in lower tube, which i enlarged out till i was back into sound metal, then i welded them shut and ground it down and sanded smooth
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/003.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/002.jpg)
(http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1969%20Honda%20CB750/004.jpg)
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Good photo-story Pete, It's nice to see all the details of the KO laid bare as well and as you say it looks like a basically sound bike with all that original stuff still there.
Don't hog all the work for yourself though, save some for the rabbit....! looking at your list of bikes you may have to consider cloning those as well to get through it.
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Hey Nigel you may notice the list of bikes is getting bigger, i cant believe i managed to find room for this K0, the wife has given up, she thinks i am insane what with 24 bikes and rabbits as co workers, i am beginning to doubt my sanity now, is there an AA equivelant for obbsessed bike hoarders , if so my introduction would be hi my names pete i have just spent my kids inheritance on a load of rusty bikes and bits
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I was wondering how to get out my stubborn swing arm shock bushes, then i came up with the old socket trick and threaded bar, a bit of heat from a gas torch and wind up the nut they just pushed out,
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/018.JPG)
shame the steering head bearings wern't as easy, turns out who ever put them in had done it with the bearing seat at an angle and so they were sort of friction welded in, i got them out eventually but will have to file the chived up metal back smooth again
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is there an AA equivelant for obbsessed bike hoarders
You and Eamon could be the founder members Pete...
I've only got 5 so don't count (yet) :)
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I'm afraid tht motorcycling is a disease of the brain :P, and there is NO motorcycles anonymous, so we couldn't get better even if we wanted to! ;D
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Thought i would do a bit of work on the front end, i am not sure what people do with their forks ie replace them cause they are rusty at the top, or just treat the rust and re use, i decided to reuse my fork stauntions as the chrome on the travel part of fork is perfect, the top part which honda left as exposed steel is not seen and the cost of replacing the tubes just because of unseen rust is not worth it as it would just add another £200+ pounds to the restoration cost for me to know that hidden behind the fork ears is shiney chrome
what i did was rub them down, treat with a chemical rust convertor, then a fine coat of silver paint
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_001.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_005.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_006.JPG)
I stripped the top yolk of its paint and gave it a couple of coats of satin black, the finish is almost spot on to the original, i know as i have a NOS one to compare to
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_007.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_010.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_016.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_019.JPG)
While i was in the mood i removed the steering lock and bearing stripped and re-painted the lower clamp, but used gloss black as that is what was used originally
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/k0_012.JPG)
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My tank was looking very tatty and i was unsure to its condition beolow all the horrible black paint, so i just had to strip the paint off to access the state of the metal, to my surprise it is in fantastic condition there is only one dent and virtually no rust inside and out , plus the added bonus that it is the original correct tank for the year , just look at those lovely wrinkles and the original cap
Getting the mucky old paint off, the original colour was candy ruby red
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E1.JPG)
Lovelly deep ridge wrinkles
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/003%7E1.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/004%7E1.JPG)
No rust inside
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/006%7E0.JPG)
Starting to reveal the beutifully preserved metal on this 43 year old tank
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/009%7E0.JPG)
I am so pleased with this , i spent a lot of money buying this bike but having most of the original parts is sometimes priceless
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/010%7E0.JPG)
Only one dent, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this dent out?
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E0.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E0.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/015%7E0.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/008%7E0.JPG)
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Hi,
Just wondering what paint stripper you used for the tank ???
Regards
Stuart
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Some tank repairs are performed by welding on studs to the dent and then heating the area. Pull the dent with a slidehammer attached to the stud. Gets most of it out, but will still need some filler.
Other option is to use a professional..
Good luck
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It's worth asking around to get a pro opinion on if it can be done without any invasive surgery as would would be ideal to keep it as good as possible.
If you weld to it, then longer term you'll probably get it rusting on the other side (inside the tank) so it may even be better to leave as-is and just fill it really well as ultimately thats the same as using a skim if filler to finish anyway unless you wanted to lead it to get final profile.
Also if you weld to it in order to pull it out that is quite an agressive tactic normally used on accident repair when they just want a fix and don't really care as they are not the owner and will never see it again either.
I'd guess a gentle old fashioned method would go something like this:- get a specialist long curved panel beating dolly to reach inside, get someone else to gently heat the outside without going too hot and slowly tap it back out, finish off with lead surfacing and sand back to correct profile ready to pant.
I can see how people may judge you talking to the rabbit Pete, you've got a point there.
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Stuart, the stripper i used was nitromores with a bit of thinners added , it got the paint quite soft ,and then i shaved it off with a fine blade followed by a satin polishing mop
As for the dent i suppose the easiest and cheapest option is for me to fill it, i recon i can get it quite good by taking my time with it,
i have a good two pack primer filler as well so after filling i will give the whole tank a couple of coats and smooth out any inperfections,
i was even considering constructing a spray booth and having a go a my own paint job
pete
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I guess some are just cut open and beaten out then welded back shut again on the base side which to some may not matter, but as the wrinkled pressing on the base of these is part of the original basic manufacture then a more sensitive approach may be wise if you wish to maintain that. And it would most likely still need filling.
As you say Pete, nobody will see a very well done fill if you get the profile and flatting correct.
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Made some more progress today, i was thinking of a plan of attack which way best to tackle the restoration when it occured to me that my preffered method of installing the engine is to lay it on its side and lower the frame over it, so i really need to build the engine sooner rather than later as i wont be putting anything back together until the engine is in the frame, so i set about getting a decent size bench for engine building, the perfect place is in the warm and dry so in my nice heated garage it is, on top of my pool table, which happens to be where i built my F2 engine
The problem as always is man handling the engine, you have to so carefull lifting these as its quite easy to bust your bollocks and back, so below is how i tackled it
First of all create the space
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E1.JPG)
Get the engine out and onto a scate board
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E1.JPG)
Up into the garage and on to a lower work bench
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/017%7E0.JPG)
And onto the build bench
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/028.JPG)
Its first time i have had a good look at the engine, the main thing is no bad cosmetic damage , all the fins are in great condition, also the lower half of the engine looks like its never been disasembled before which is always a plus point i find, another good point is that the engine ran really well it just leaked oil so i am hoping for no nasty surpises
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/022.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/023.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/025.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/026.JPG)
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Looking at that engine I would guestimate that most of the oil is leaking round the rubber seals.
Do check the threads in the head for the 6mm studs and bolts and use sealant on the threads when re-fitting
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you could do with a set of Henry Abe Mag Wheels
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Here goes then time to strip the engine
Rocker cover off,a well preserved number written on inside
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/006%7E1.JPG)
all looks good in there
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E3.JPG)
Cam towers off they both have a code on the side, could it be a date ?
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/016%7E2.JPG)
I have had one of these snap before so i am not taking any chances as this one is in real tight, a bit of heat and a hit from the hammer free,s it up
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/009%7E2.JPG)
Off with the head,it has had a serious oil leak for some time by the looks of it
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/010%7E2.JPG)
Off with the barrels
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/013%7E0.JPG)
Open up the crankcase, all looks good, vitually no sludge, just a few bit of muck in the oil strainer
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/029.JPG)
Washed the cases in my parts washer, more preserved numbers written inside
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/008%7E1.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/009%7E1.JPG)
Could this be the bearing code on the underside of front upper crankcase
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E2.JPG)
At last some sort of order, all small bits baged and labled, cases cylinders and head all washed clean , now i can work my way through this lot and see what i need to order
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/033.JPG)
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That looks pretty good inside, I'm still amazed at what's in that design considering what else was around at the time, they just shifted engine design by miles then.
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The BAABB are the main bearing housing codes and looking at the headgasket picture whilst the fin is absolutely covered the gasket looks dry so i doubt it was leaking there, maybe a small amount at the 2 "O" rings round the studs at the rear. I still think it was leaking past the rubber pucks, and speaking of rubber that cam chain tensioner wheel is furxtd
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Nigel it does look really good inside, the cam and crank surfaces are amazingly good for 43 years old, the engine bottom end has definetly not been opened up before, the head has been off and thats it, i have done a visual inspection and i would guess this bikes milage is quite low,i have not done any measurments but the bores and pistons seem good as well
Bryan i would say you diagnosis is spot on , the rubber pucks showed all the signs of letting oil past them, also your right about the cam tensioner wheel , it is pretty chewed up, i bet the adjuster was over tightened a bit for it to chew up like that, i will be renewing all the cam tensioner parts and chain, and the bottom crank chains with its tensioner, new rings and a hone , and possibly valve guides and valve seat job if needed, ok David silver stand by you are about to relieve me of a whole heap more of my hard earned LOL
Just been adding up what i have already spent and what i am probably going to spend, F---K ME , it would probably be cheaper to buy a bike that is already done, but hey where is the fun in that
Pete
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And you get the satisfaction of knowing its done properly by you and not taking someones word that yeah I replaced this that and the other
Regards
Bitsa
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Pete, the tank...read elsewhere a trick is to fill the tank with water & freeze it...but taking great care towards 'the end' & choosing the right time versus bursting it. Fraught perhaps! But possibly worth experimenting with an old dog of a tank before committing the beauty you have. Good luck with whatever you decide.
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Done my battery box and electrics this weekend, a bit random i know, one minute i am doing the tank then engine, the next i am doing this but i suppose it pays to do anything as it is all a step nearer to the end
Here is a reminder of the battery box and electrics
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/048.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/049.JPG)
Zinc plating some of the bolts and brakets
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/027%7E0.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/005%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/030%7E0.JPG)
Lots of other bit done , bring it all together and it looks real good i think,
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/009%7E3.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/008%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/007%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/006%7E2.JPG)
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That,s impressive Pete. Was the DIY zinc plating as per recent classic mechanics article? Are you happy with ease of process / results.
Tim
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Tim i have not seen the classic mechanics article,is it any good? i have been using zinc/Nickel plating kits for some years they are good as you can suit yourself where and when and how much you want to do, however it has many problems which you have to overcome by trial and error,
I might do a write up on how to do it, there are many factors that the suppliers of the kits dont mention
Take a look at my photobucket album you can see lots of bits i have done on another restoration project i am doing , i used the black passivate on this
http://s924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/UK-Pete/1986%20GPZ550%20ZX%20A2%20Restoration/
Pete
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Pete, a write up would be great. I have acquired all the hardware for plating, but never really got round to sorting out the correct chemicals for the bath. Original chemicals were from a kit, but I must have poisoned it somewhere . :'(
Tim, Is the plating article in this months CMCM?
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Seamus - article starts November more in December.
Pete - article seems quite straight forward but really was interested in your experience of doing it. Yes a "how to" would be good.
More generally Pete - how the hell do you manage to do so much, so well,l so fast on your "harem" of bikes?? Her in doors must be very understanding if nothing else.
Tim
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I was wondering the same thing.... and don't say its the rabbits.
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Tell you what, those bikes are breeding like the proverbial rabbits!
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I have no idea how i find the time to do this, you have to be a bit obssesed, the wife sort of knows by now that there is no stopping me,
On the subject of having time to do it, here are some more bits
The metalwork of the front footpegs was powdercoated, i zinc/nickle plated the pins,and washers, also seeing as new rubber is quite cheap i thought it would be rude not to so they got finished off with the new rubbers
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/007%7E3.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/012%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E3.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/016%7E3.JPG)
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Keep going frakin good job so far well done
Cheers
Bitsa
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I forgot to post the pictures of my frame and various bits after they had been to the powder coaters, so here they are,
I sent the frame swingarm and battery box back as i felt the finish was quite poor compared to when i last had one done, this is the photo of the parts first time round you cant see the finish clearly
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/008_28229.JPG)
Here is one when i got them back after being re-done, i am much happier now
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/013_28229.JPG)
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I restored the the seat catch, was really pleased how it came out, its another small bit to tick off the list
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/019_28229.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/024_28229.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/025_28229.JPG)
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I have gathered all my engine component markings, and have read other peoples posts on date markings, what i can gather is 44 is the year 1969 and the next two numbers the month and day, as i am documenting the whole build i might as well gather all my date markings together, it really pleases me that the bottom of this engine was totally untoched, the top had only had the head off, everything that was put together in 1969 is in tact and re-usable, obviously i will replace all the usuall serviceable items
Clutch basket 01/10/1969
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_012%7E4.JPG)
cam carriers the 07/10/1969 first 4 is partly worn away
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_016%7E1.JPG)
Rocker cover 29/8/1969
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_006%7E1.JPG)
Crank cases 26/09/1969
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_005%7E1.JPG)
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Gathered the bottom end parts together, took them apart and gave them a good clean and inspection, i have to say the condition for 43 years is amazing, very little wear, the only parts that need replacing are the primary chain tensioner and cam tensioner wheels as these are rock hard and starting to loose bits off them,and of course the chains will be replaced, i will change the output shaft outer bearing even though mine is smooth running and reusable, i am only changing it as i had already ordered the new bearing before checking the old
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E4.JPG)
Output shaft has had an easy life by the looks
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/010%7E3.JPG)
Started putting the parts together and back in the engine, it took me about 5 minutes to remember the easy way of reinstating the kickstart spring, i was scratching my head for ages trying to remember how the f--k i did it last time, i put in the new primary chain tensioner,
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/003%7E5.JPG)
Then the rest of the parts
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/012%7E5.JPG)
It will stay like this for a while, till i get the rest of parts for the engine build, nearly there though, i have recieved most of the parts i ordered here they are , just need gaskets and a few more orings
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E4.JPG)
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That looks in amazing condition Pete, it's very wortwhile getting hold of one that is essentially in tact as a start point.
I don't blame you for changing the output bearing if you have one available as it's so easy while apart.
Something about these that people think they are complex inside when they really are quite simple and elegantly laid out.....I know I keep saying this but I'm amazed at the skill of the original designers.
What a nice bike to own.
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So there was no need to blast/paint the crank cases - just clean them ?
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Nigel, you are right it is a nice bike to own and to restore, i dont care how much i end up spending on it as it is a good original bike and one that i will really enjoy just looking at and riding, it has to be the best hobby in the world messing with classic bikes
Tom both crank cases were washed out in my parts washer, then jet washed, followed by a scrub with washing powder in boiling water, oven dried, blown through with an air line , then keyed up with a scotchbright pad , submerged in thinners and scrubbed with a tooth brush, then the flaking paint on the top cover was sanded back before spraying
Pete
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Hi. Looking good and love the pics. I also have a K0 that is in process at the moment. re the forks I sent mine away to Philpotts hardchrome and they come back as new. I am finding getting bits a pain or very expensive I would love a new HM300 set of exhuasts but waited to late and they became discontinued . This Fri i'll be picking up my engine cases and cylinders and head. These have been vapour blasted so should look the nuts. The head is the original one so will go away to be refurbed and valves recut etc. I'll have to post some pics as you have which makes for good reading and identifies what your talking about. All the best from a fellow K0 owner.
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Hi chrisD, thanks for the comments, it would be good to see pictures of your K0, as for the forks the surface rust is common on all the early forks, because they only plated the travel area, which is good on mine so i dont think another £200 or so is worth spending on something not even seen especially as i have just about run out of money, speaking of which , you are right about expensive bits , i can't believe how much i am spending on this bike,
I was going to buy a set of HM300's a couple of years back for my k1, the whole kit was about £900 inc vat, then VAT went up to 20% and also Dave silvers increased the price to nearly £1200, then earlier this year they discontinued them, i have contacted DS and they are thinking of doing repro Hm300's in the future so i am waiting in hope, if not it will have to be a set of 341,s
i am thinking of doing a valve job on my head while its apart i have the new guides and the valve seat cutting tools so there is no excuse not to do it
Good luck with your bike keep us posted on your progress
Pete
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Cheers Pete. I'll try to get some pics on but have trouble with the file size and no program to squeeze them to 300mb. At the moment things are waiting on bits and pieces and of course dosh. As soon as i get moving i'll get back to the forum hopefully this wont be to long things seemed to have stalled a bit. Anyway looking to get completed around june/july time so better get my finger out. I too have a new set of HM341,s but hopefully DS will come up with the goods at a price we can afford. Cheers Chris.
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Wish me luck as i am starting my gauge restoration, it is amazing just how much money there is in getting hold of a decent set of restored gauges, even the cost of home restoration on old gauges is high, with the potential to f--k it up as well
Anyway here goes
First of all snap of the rear plastic lip
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/019%7E0.JPG)
Next carefully prise off the needle, this is the part where i wonder if i should be doing this myself
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/020%7E1.JPG)
I got myself a small philips screwdriver which fitted the two face plate bolts and removed them, to reveal beautifully preserved internals, even the light shaft rubber boots were intact and looking good,
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/022%7E0.JPG)
The damping all seems fine, so i dont think there is much else to do in here, so i stick the the new jewels to the new face plate
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/023%7E1.JPG)
Dab of paint on the needle tip, put it all to one side , let the paint dry and i come back to it for reassmbly later
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/026%7E1.JPG)
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Ok so here are pictures of the gauges back together, there is still more work to be done, i will put new shrink tubing on the wiring, as it is getting a bit hard , also i wont seal up the bottom with silicon until the clocks are up and running on the bike, other than that, here they are for now, all the hard work done
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E5.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/003%7E6.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/004%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E4.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/007%7E5.JPG)
The rear chrome plates are ok but not perfect, thing is that the replacement ones from Honda are not the same as the originals, so its either keep as is , rechrome or replace with modern alternative
Here are the originals
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/013%7E3.JPG)
here is an original left, next to the new style right
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E5.JPG)
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Hi Pete
Clocks look good mine were a pig as they were bent and full of sand
Don't silicone them until you test them the needle fell off mine and so I had to pull them apart again.
It feels really strange going into a bend with the speedo reading 150mph
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Really interesting and informative thread Pete, keep it coming!
My vote would be to rechrome the originals. With the value of K0s and the weight given to originality I'd say its a no brainer. I got replacement ones for my bike and had to make up rubber grommet thingies to fit which don't look too good but then mine is 'only' an F1 so don't think it matters so much.
All looking brilliant so far, perticularly like the ghostly floating gold thingies you fitted into the rev counter ;D
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Thanks for the nice comments guys, as for keeping original you are right, the more original parts the better, the cost of restoring these early bikes is unbelievable, my re-chrome list is getting bigger all the time, i am hoping that if i find a decent plater and give him a job lot of K0,F2 anf F1 chrome to do i might get discount, i seem to spend lots of time doing all this, yet i still cant see it being done for about a year, plus i have run out of money and also i have no work to earn any more money for a while, so i am going to sell off a few bikes and some spares to raise money to continue this project, ideally i would like to have this bike on the road this summer
Pete
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Your doing a cracking job Pete please keep us update with photos etc ;) cheers Mick.
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I was about to reassemble the bottom end the other day when i realised that the engine bolts were looking a bit scruffy , having gone to the trouble of restoring all other bits on the bike it would be a shame to leave out the engine bolts, so i spent a whole day yesterday blasting each bolt, then cleaning the threads followed by zinc/ nickle plating, i finished at about 9 in the evening, i even did all the washers
Here are some pictures, i think a combination of passivating too long and the temperature gave mixed results, they have a sort of yellow hue to them which is exagerated by the flourescent lights, but on the whole i am very pleased i did it now, another job out the way
Upper and lower case bolts and washers seperated
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/015%7E3.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/010%7E4.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E5.JPG)
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Hi Pete, not been on forum for a while [ building a little yam ] just read your thread and had to comment you are doing an amazing job there and the end result is going to be fantastic keep up the good work its a pleasure to follow the thread you are a very skilled man :) :) Tom.
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Hi Pete. Well have moved on a bit since my last post. The cylinder head is now in the hands of the cylinder head shop and when xmas is over I have to get some oversize valves due to the seats needing cutting, also the case barrels and head have been vapour blasted so look great, will be having the cases painted soon (its all money) still have a list of stuff to get like bearings ((roller) and chains and stuff to bring it up to a good motor, but looking at the componets all seems to be in good order. Looks like I'll be fitting a 4 into 2 exhuast system (only becuase allready have) untill the HM300's are in stock with DS if and when they do them. I plan to get the engine up and running via the bench test method first before it goes in the frame as to ensure nothing leaks and oil is getting to all the right parts icluding the head as have had problems in the past (wrecked cams). Not sure if anybody knows if the oil ways in my head are fixed as in the later heads as the head I have is an early 1(short intake stubs) as I would like to take them out and make sure the are clear. The wheels are also away to be respoked (stainlesss) so should be getting them back in the new year. They are fitted with alloy rims I am aware these are not the original but they are what was fitted when I brought the bike in 1980. Anyway all the very best for The new year and hopefully there will be another K0 giving it what for on the roads where they belong. Safe riding all. Chris D.
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Chris, i think you have it the wrong way round mate--its the later heads that have the removeable oil restrictor jets, the early ones were machined as part of the casting
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Fork lowers now polished, i stripped the laquer which appeared to be etched in to the ally, quite difficult to remove, non of the usual strippers seemed to work, anyway once i got it all off i polished up the aluminium and i will stop it oxidising by wiping over with ACF50, this also takes off some of the gloss and so will make it quite similar to the original, i still cant make up my mind wether to buy new chrome fork tubes or use the originals,
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/016%7E4.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/017%7E3.JPG)
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a little bit of progress, i installed taper roller bearings on the steering stem and re- fixed the aluminium date plate using new rivets, but best of all look what father chrismas got me, a nice new set of rear shocks, i can't believe how much David silver charges for these shocks, they are one hundred and ninety nine pounds each plus 20% VAT plus six pound delivery total just short of 500 pounds, fecking daylight robbery
needless to say i bought them elswhere much cheaper, in fact a good percentage of the parts i buy now come from USA or Germany as they are cheaper than our Usual UK suppliers
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/005%7E3.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/006%7E3.JPG)
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/007%7E6.JPG
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/008%7E3.JPG
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Looking good Pete
I also buy allot of stuff from the USA and Germany.
DS seem to be charging whatever they want laity.Did you buy the shocks of eBay as they seem to cheap to be true.
My gold bike is still in bits allover the garage floor :-[ But on the plus side I got the triumph going today.
Mick
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Hi Pete how did you get the bottom roller bearing on heat, freezer ???
Am I right in saying that its just the large washer that sits under the bearing nothing else ???
I am going to have a go at mine tonight !!!
Cheers
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Mick, yes i got them through ebay, they are genuine K0 Honda supplied shocks and they work out half the price of the same ones from DS, what was up with your triumph?
Stu, i heated the roller bearing up with a heat gun, and i have a special tool that is about 2mm bigger than the diameter of the inner case of the bearing and fits over the stem, so it can be slide hammered on without fear of chiving the metal, and yes i used thick washer and then the bearing , nothing else
Pete
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Cheers Pete I might try my small length of scaff pole for size !!!
Regards Stu
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Pete my triumph was running rough for sometime and then totally stopped running.It turned out to be abuse and neglect :-[I thought I had serviced it recently but it was about three years ago so the oil was like treacle,one blocked injector,one dead plug the other three were barely sparking and a leaking battery. Bloody work getting in the way. >:( it terns out I have only covered about 200 miles in the last three years :o :-[
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Stu as your probably aware you dont want to hit the outer casing inner only, the perfect tool for the job is a gpz550 fork tube, possibly a cb750 one will do as the outer size is the same 35mm
Mick i have a few bikes that dont get used enough its bloody hard work keeping everything running right
Pete
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I am getting my bodywork ready to go to the painters, i had previously stripped the paint off the top of my tank but stopped short of doing the underside, its one of those horrible jobs but i got stuck in and stripped it bare, it had to be done as i needed to see that it was not rusting, alot of painters would just blow over the bottom without any prep,
In the process of stripping it i revealed a date code on the tank, it looks to me to be 1 / 10 /69, so thats another one to add to my date codes on this build,
I am still in two minds whether to use the LPM side panels i have already bought or buy the ones with the mire mesh tabs from z1900, Also i need to get some new fork ears, i cant believe reproduction ones are so costly, anyone have any suggestions where to buy fork ears ?
Pete
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/123.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/126.JPG)
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Hi Pete
I two am after a left hand fork ear unbelievably expensive.I managed to find the right hand one for £25 new :) but the left hand ones are an astonishing £135.
There are LPM panels fitted to my green bike they are far better than the originals.
I was going to send the gold bike to the painter this month but some selfish cow run into the side off my truck >:( so now he is repairing that for me.
The gold bike is still in bits allover the floor it's taken me four months to get around to putting the bronze bushes in the swingarm. :-[
Mick
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Hi Guys
This may interest you two.Like you said not cheap but take a look anyway.EBay fr number 200911027368 may be of help.Best of luck.
Cheers
Bitsa
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Just delivered my bodywork to the painters, I am using Daytona paints as recommended by mick(green1)
i have asked Mark at Daytona to hand paint the tank stripes rather than use decals, the sancast forum confirmed this is the correct way for a K0, fingers crossed the guy will do a good job, the trouble is i am already having some regrets about using the LPM side covers and airbox, i thought they were good value for money and less brittle however those are the + points the minus points are no holes for badges, replica stamped on the inside, and worse of all is they have no tangs for retaining the grilles, anyway its to late now and all these points will not be seen , i also have massive problems with my head and barrels, i will do a post with pictures when i get time as i want some help here so i dont mess up building the engine, paul (sweetpeauk) is kindly helping me out with a 1mm base gasket spacer which might well help solve the problem,
Pete
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Hi Pete
Funny I was going to strip the green bikes fork ears and headlight shell and drop them of with the gold bike tomorrow.I'm sure Mark will do a spiffing job.He will now have 750 parts coming out of his ears I got him to fit the badges to my LPM panels just because I didn't trust myself with a drill next to fresh paintwork.The LPM panels are well worth it as I put my knee through the original the first day I used the main stand ::) Sorry can't help with the engine as I have decided not to touch mine until I need to as both run well and I have no were to do a rebuild.
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Hi any chance of posting pictures of the sidestand fixing on the frame, mine is damaged (all I have is hole!) I wanted to get a new one fabricated. Also would appreciate any measurements you have.
All the best
JOJOTUT
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Ok guys i have collected my paintwork and am very happy, the colour is perfect i had it matched using a NOS candy blue/green panel
Here is a complete photo collection of the work start to finish, notice he hand done the tank stripes at my request
the pictures were done on a camera phone and so are not perfect
First all parts degreased filled and keyed up ready for grey silver undercoat
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT3996.JPG)
next parts are given there first coat and at this stage any further inperfections are taken care of
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT3998.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT3999.JPG)
Here we have the parts all sprayed up in the candy blue green
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4058.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4054.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4051.JPG)
Tank going through masking and spraying of striping detail
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4060.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4061.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4062.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4063.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4065.JPG)
And finaly the finished set of paintwork
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4074.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4073.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4068.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4067.JPG)
I should also mention i had the painter do a spare set of fork ears, and my original airbox while he was doing all this
i am not sure wether to use original airbox or the repro one , here is the question what air box would you guys use original and risk it cracking or aftermarket?
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/PICT4069.JPG)
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Lovely job there Pete. Looks like it was well worth the wait...can't wait to see this bike come together.
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looking good 8) 8)
You should have stopped in for a brew so I could have had a sneak peek
Thank god it came out well it always worry's me when I recommend something to someone
Mick
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Thanks James, i am well pleased with it all,
as for finishing the bike i just can't see it coming to an end soon, i have to find a very good chromer, and some how find the really hard to get hold of HM300 pipes, rebuild the engine, and carbs plus a whole heap of other things then reasemble the bike
i am currently working on my xvs1100 bobber which is a great summer ride and totally different style to what i normally go for
mick thanks for the recommendation i have taken my next project up for mark to be getting on with, i have so much work for him
when i pick up my next lot from mark i will see if your about and come and talk bike stuff with you
pete
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Hi Pete paint job looks ace 8), I would use the repro air box and save the original one, ;) cheers Mick.
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Still not sure , i might use the original and see how it withstands the very low miles i will put on the bike when its done
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I have started gathering parts for the rebuild of my rear wheel, up until now i have not paid much attention to the rear wheel, it has sat there in the corner virtually untoched covered in grime, i was dissapointed to find that the final drive flange has been scuffed up by a chain incident in the past, this seems very common looking through some other peoples build threads, i have been thinking that perhaps my bike had a chain break in its first year as my engine number seems to have been stamped possibly by a dealer rather than honda, so it could have been rebuilt with new casings, or maybe not the date stamps in the engine cases are 1969 and consistant with the build date so who knows what has happened, anyway back to the wheel below is a picture of the scuffed up drive, i would say it is repairable , at the edge it still measures 3.5 mm so i think it could be sanded or machined out, what do you guys think
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/032.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/033%7E0.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/034.JPG)
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Hi Pete I would say it could be sanded out and polished without any issues cheers ;) Mick.
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Completely agree with Mick, definitely think you should have a go to get that out Pete. When do you think you might have the K0 completed?
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Yes i will have a go to get it out should be easy enough just tedious work, i have a spare which is now probably the better one to use but it has been welded up i will post up pictures tommorrow of the other one, as for a finish date i dont know i have come to a stand still on the engine , i still need a head and barrells, before i can rebuild the engine , trouble is they only come up now and again and when they do they go for stupid money even if they are damaged
pete
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It has been slow moving of recent months but i am now starting to get enthusiastic again especially as i have a set of no number exhausts on order and the paint work all done, it still leaves me with the engine to do, i might now use my original head, but am still searching for barrels, i have a k1 head and barrels which at a glance looks the same, but if you look up close at the front you can see a small difference where there is the extra front bolt,
Here are the pictures of my spare drive flange, from the outside this looks perfect, however it was damaged behind where the rubbers go two big chunks missing, so i got it welded up and i have roughly shaped it with a file, i dont think it will cause any issues if i use this now its repaired
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/019%7E1.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/024.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/030%7E1.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/028%7E0.JPG)
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I don't think you're doing too bad at all Pete given the amount to get through.......it's that nice realisation that you get when you are closer to getting it finished that sneaks up on you as you are thinking about just what needs doing and often discounting just how much youv'e actually done.
Comments on your first sprocket hub....looks like it's been rubbing on a chainguard to do that sort of mark.....would be quickest and fastest to spin it in a lathe and use wet-or-dry paper to clean it up then hand finish to take away any machine patterns as I think these looked mostly hand buffed as original.
The second welded one looks like it should be ok to use as the rubber is driven all across that face right down to the root of the casting.....so it's design has no real point load that could break it.
As a point of interest, the welding looks good quality with good material integration......I always prefer not to grind welds back if you can avoid it (i.e. not generally seen) as it promotes ongoing strength if properly welded.
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I suppose i have come along quite a bit, certainly with the procurement of parts, i would say i have 90% of the parts i need,
but i still need to build the engine, restore the wheel components and build the wheels, build the forks, recon the seat , get some of the parts re-chromed, new tyres, restore the carbs, probably much more than this i just can't think of it,
The welding is of good quality as you observed, also of substantial thickness to enable me to grind back and still have more thickness than original, i will restore both flanges and take my choice
Here is the welded Flange flatened off with various grades of wet and dry , then satin polished , just need to clear coat it now, i think that the satin polish finish topped with clear coat will be as near as i can get to original finish, i say this because this flange had part of its surface area where the clear coat was still on it, i removed this to reveal what i regard as a satin finish, the clear coat should gloss it up to be like a factory finish, however if it does not i will strip it back and polish it as i like the polished look as well, just means more maintenance
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/004%7E4.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/002%7E3.JPG)
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Morning Pete your doing a cracking job on your KO, 8) just keep plugging away doing a bit when you can & feel like it that it doesn't become a chore if you know what I mean? ;) cheers Mick.
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Hey mick thanks BTW that was the flange i got off you with the hub
pete
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I thought it was, looks better now its welded up, that Ducktail seat I bought a while ago was worse than it looked when I took it apart, I sold the seat cover, strap & seat trim to a guy in the states got my money back and made a little, decided i'm going to buy one from Morretti I know your not a fan of them but have you seen the price of proper ones ;) cheers Mick.
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I have a good seat on mine, but it has one of those modern covers which look a bit puffy/ bloated, the originals are flatter and have a more leatherette type of material, plus the Honda logo is more of a greyish colour, it makes me wonder why people dont try and copy the originals properly, only one place does and i am not prepared to pay the f--ing ridiculous price they want ( Yamiya)
pete
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Pete - check out the us forum for sale section. Tews19 is parting out a k0 engine - could be the head / barrels you need?
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Thanks James
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Whooooo hoooooo, i have finaly got myself a 1969 early K0 top end, i had to buy a complete 69 K0 engine to get it, the engine i bought is complete and has good compression it would not surprise me if it is a runner with a bit of work, be a shame to take it apart but i have searched for a 1969 top end for a year now, this is just what i need to get myself motivated on this build again, pictures to follow
pete
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Well done Pete - finally!!
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yes i am so pleased,
how are things with your K0?
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Mine's sitting on the sidelines feeling sorry for itself. A few other project have jumped the que ahead of it...:-)
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So where did you source the engine in the end?
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I got it from the guy who is selling the sandcasts on ebay at the moment
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Freddy the fat frog right...wonder of anyone will actually be stupid enough to take on the sandcasts?
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If you took on one of those sandcast projects expecting to finish it and make money then you would be a mug, but then if you took one on just for the fun of restoring and owning one of the very first cb750,s then it would be worth it, after all there are plenty of us who have poured money into bikes with no hope of getting back what you payed, but still enjoy owning them, after all its only money, ok a sh-t load of it but you cant take it with you,
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Yeah I guess you're right - over time you'd probably realise your investment back as well. Just looks like crazy money at this 'point in time'. We'll probably look back in 15 years time and wish we'd gone for it...:-)
So, killer question - when do you think you'll have your K0 on the road? :-)
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Yeah I guess you're right - over time you'd probably realise your investment back as well. Just looks like crazy money at this 'point in time'. We'll probably look back in 15 years time and wish we'd gone for it...:-)
So, killer question - when do you think you'll have your K0 on the road? :-)
James i have set myself a target to get my K0. GPZ550, and my phil read naked cafe racer project done this year
a tall order i know but i will try for it
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Glad you found a head it's a good job I'm not restoring it I would never get finished.
Work keeps getting in the way
Can't wait to see it when it's done
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Pete, been a bit quiet lately, what's the latest on the K0?
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Hi james , I have got a new hobby which is motorhoming , I thought messing about with old hondas was expensive , well this motorhome stuff just consumes time and money I am in devon in it right now, i have had 5 sunny days now its started to rain looks like the funs over for today
As with the bike restoration, well in theory it should be easy now I have 90% of the parts it all boils down to time and enthusiasm now
Pete
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]I have suddenly got the urge to resume my restoration so here goes, seeing as i have gathered all the front suspension parts i thought i would put them all together, as luck has it the bushing and piston were all within spec very little wear which is handy as you can't get the parts any more
its a great feeling when you have restored 44 year old parts , i just sat back and looked at it and thought 44 years ago someone in Japan was doing the same and assembling these very parts.
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/006%7E4.JPG)
my trusty assistant inspects the parts for quality
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/011%7E7.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/014%7E6.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/019%7E2.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/017%7E4.JPG[/img
[img width=600 height=450]http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/021.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/021.JPG)
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Great work as always Pete - thanks for sharing..,
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Looks spot on, I see you had an assistant though Pete, when training him did you use the carrot or stick approach?
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Looks spot on, I see you had an assistant though Pete, when training him did you use the carrot or stick approach?
No carrotts or sticks needed, his incentive is that he gets to ride the bike when its done,
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So did you go with new Stanchions in the end pete?
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So did you go with new Stanchions in the end pete?
Yes I would like to know too Pete.. not sure what to do with mine, they are great where chromed but a bit moth eaten where they clamp on the bottom yoke.
Cheers ... Ashd
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Yes i did go with the new chrome staunchions i just could not bring myself to put rusty parts on a bike that will in effect be like new when done, i got them from DS, but if you go down that route be warned whoever he got to make these parts got it wrong you will find that the piston and valve ring do not fit as the chrome on the bottom takes the staunchion diameter out to far , i had to ream the inside of these parts so they fitted again, a proper pain in the arse, i know it is compulsory to kiss DS's arse and praise him for everything but i have had quite a few dissapointments with items he sells, however i still use him and on the whole am happy with most stuff ( there we go all is good i just kissed arse ha ha)
Anyway next thing is to build up the wheels, i just need a NOS front rim Old style DID , any one got one (fat chance of that)
Or does anyone know a decent chromer ,previous posts on here have exposed what an f--ing nightmare it is finding the right firm to do chroming
pete
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I am in regular email contact with DSS as I have been giving him some CB750 info he needs recently and he did me some close up photos of the CB250SS he got of James May (off the 'ManLab' program) for his forthcoming museum.
If anyone's got any issues with the stuff he is selling just put it on here (other than postage/shipping prices) and I will address it with him.
One thing I want to ask him to do is stock more Yamiya stuff, as some of the small stuff is reasonably priced but shipping/customs costs kill it.
I will definitely ask about the 750K0 stanchions Pete as I may need some from him myself.
Cheers ... AshD
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Good to know ash. Sorry for the thread hijack pete...Ash, could you ask him for a more definitive date on the availability of replica hm341's. Every time i ring and ask I get a different answer from every person I speak with...must be soon now? I'm after several sets...
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Thats a good idea, about giving him feedback i suppose if no one tells him he wont know, also stocking yamiya stuff is a great idea,
pete
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Nice sunny weekend here in the UK, perfect day to strip and clean my carbs, took me two days but well worth the hard work, i spent about 3hrs on each carb cleaning with small tooth brushes, everthing has come up real well including all the zinc plated parts, i have loosely assembled them without the internals fitted as i will probably do some fine detailing work to them, probably strip and put a new zinc plating on some parts , the throttle stops have some corrosion so they will definetely be re-plated
Can anyone tell me the original finish to the float bowls, it appears to me they were polished and laquered, is that correct?, i have lightly polished them for now
pete
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/001%7E9.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/004%7E6.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/1969_K0_carbs_4.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/1969_K0_carbs_6.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/1969_K0_carbs_5.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/1969_K0_carbs_3.JPG)
(http://)
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Looking good Pete Far cleaner than mine I would be tempted to keep them like that people tend to go overboard polishing Ali on restorations.
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Thanks for the compliment, as for over polishing a restored bike i do know what you mean, it can sometimes spoil it, my aim is to have this bike as near as i can get to the original finishes that honda had at the time,
pete
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Lokoing good Pete and not over polished.
How did (DID :)) you get on with the wheelbuilding?
Cheers ... AshD
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I have put that on hold as I am going to improve the finish on the hub its the sort of thing I Will regret if not done wel then its to late wthen the wheel is assembled
Petel
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Ok guys it was a shit rainy mid day here i have no money to spend but have some time on my hands so went about reshaping my ducktail seat, first picture is when i first put the seat together a while back, the rest are todays attempts, after numerous cover removals and carefully removing the foam at about 8mm a time, i took off over an inch in all , the seat is loosely assembled as in i have not attached the side trim or bent the tab hooks over at the back or cleaned it for that matter and the pictures do not really do it justice as in the flesh i think it looks fantastic i am chuffed to bits
what you fellas recon?
old picture
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/111.JPG)
new pictures
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/039.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/037.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/042.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/033~1.JPG)
(http://cb750sandcastonly.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/036.JPG)
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Looks good to me Pete. My arse would love that ;)
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All very nice Pete and I do believe the bowls were polished then varnished
Keep going mate bloody good
Cheers
Bitsa
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Awesome work pete as always...
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Looks great to me, it's even got the wrinkle by the strap
Cheers
Den
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That's looking much much closer to original Pete, it's now lost that pumped pillow look from the first image.
Those photos I put over on the other post show the seat strap loose and not pulling the cover down at all so I was wondering if Honda just put more foam into delivered bikes to increase volume as compared to that bike which appears to be one of the first press bikes.
I do think you and Ash are right to try and get a very good seat as it is such a big visual part of that bike and with the huge effort you put in to all the other parts it will do it justice at the end.
Nice work.
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Looks great from old period pictures i have seen.
I will be asking questions in the next few months if you don't mind ;D
I have yet to buy a rabbit though ;D ;D
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Looks good to me Pete. My arse would love that ;)
Wow, what a transformation Pete!! Looking the part now!