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Messages - Raygun
1
« on: June 27, 2022, 09:26:50 AM »
Yeah you're right it does look weird!
I think it might be the angle? Currently the pedal is level with the footpeg when I saw the bike yesterday!
2
« on: June 23, 2022, 04:20:54 PM »
All,
Thanks so much for your advice- the forum is always a goldmine for knowledge on these bikes.
Understood re the stock airbox- but it was not possible to keep it with the wider design choices I wanted to make for this bike. I recognise this now comes with a potentially painful journey of plug chops, trial and error and tuning, so I'm just at the start of that process now. Reading that thread has been helpful and I may see if there is some way I can engineer an appropriate solution that is akin to stock as possible.
The stacks, fortunately, seal well and are smooth entry so I hope go some way to mitigating the droplets issue.
I'll get cracking on some of the adjustments suggested and see how it goes- thanks!
3
« on: June 09, 2022, 10:49:57 AM »
Hey all,
I'm not here to start a 'what jets do I need thread' so don't worry! But this is, in some way a jet sourcing thread.
Does anyone have jets that they tested, didn't work, and are sitting unused they'd sell/swap? I'm looking for a range of jet sizes to test but sourcing sets is tough. Otherwise I'm going to continue to try and find a number of jet sizes to build a test inventory.
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The bike in question!
I'm running open stacks and 2-into-2 shorty exhausts (baffled), 069A Carbs, stock jetting (Main #98, Idle #38) : running generally well, but with slight rich symptoms at low revs and lean at higher revs)
Main: I'd like to test both 1 and 2, possibly 3 jet sizes up for the main jets.
Idle: On some research, I'd also like to test one size down, along with some larger sizes. The working theory is that with the level of increased airflow, the carbs may be drawing in fuel from other circuits in addition to the idle circuit, creating a rich condition at idle that becomes lean later on.
Thoughts/advice always welcome, and if anyone has similar issues I'll help where I can
4
« on: December 16, 2021, 11:18:55 AM »
See below for a little video- it's present at all revs and proportionate to the rpm- i.e louder with more rpm. the cam chain has just been adjusted (this morning!) and the tensioner appears to be working fine. Next step for me is to check valve clearances though these were done just before the bike got on the road less than 100miles ago- so unless there is a bedding in/loosening they should be OK. Engine was fully rebuilt less than 100miles ago Bike starts well, revs well, isn't hanging and only a little smoky. Seems to have good power What does this noise sound like to any of you? I'm always conscious I don't know how these engines should sound- how much top end nose is normal.... I've searched around but it's quite hard to work out the different versions of engine noise people mention from other posts, so any help appreciated! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg7nd52LATw
5
« on: December 06, 2021, 12:49:47 PM »
Hey Oddjob!
Pictures attached- let me know what you think?
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6
« on: November 23, 2021, 10:06:01 AM »
See some pictures! Hopefully this helps. I'll take the brake plate off and take some photos from the other side too.
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Oddjob- I haven't yet as it is a bit daunting getting it right.
7
« on: November 18, 2021, 02:34:16 PM »
A bit strange, and certainly for a road bike, on which you'd expect to have a cush.
Racing I could see the potential to modify as some would use no or very very litte cush effect to give direct response to input. But it would normally be at the expense of chain and sprocket life which they'd probably be willing to accept.
There's one in the primary drive to catch engine vibrations and prevent onward travel into further transmission. Then this one that allows the next stage to run vibrations separate from being directly constrained by the tire on the road. Technically it'll work as the peripheral weld should easily take the torque, but at the expense of component lifing and added harshness to the rider.
That's some really great information, thank you for sharing. It seems like, in that case, using this wheel won't kill my transmission whilst I potentially seek out some new wheels. I'll share some photos tomorrow when I'm working on the bike. The welds are reasonably neat so in response to Ted: I had originally thought this is how the wheels came, until my local tyre shop didn't want to fit tyres to these wheels in the first place. R
8
« on: November 18, 2021, 09:47:45 AM »
I have myself some beautiful looking Lester Mag wheels- however on inspection the rear appears to have the cush rubbers removed and the hub welded to the sprocket carrier?
Does anyone know why someone might of done this? It can't be an easy thing to weld so hardly by accident, I imagine. This also raises some issues with replacing my rear wheel bearings...
Best,
R
9
« on: November 01, 2021, 10:30:17 AM »
Trying to set up a spoked rear wheel (1977) with a drum brake housing. For some reason, when using the axle spacers the wheel is incredibly tight to fit, and when it does fit it won't rotate (even with no shoes in the brake housing) as it appears the drum brake housing is being pushed into the wheel so that the wheel cannot rotate?
Would anyone have any insight into what is causing this issue? Do some model year drum brake housings not fit with certain rear hubs? Are there different size spacers for different wheels (mags/spoked?)
Thanks all!
Best,
R
10
« on: October 18, 2021, 04:07:04 PM »
For posterity- I worked out the confusion and thought I would share the outcome below for anyone searching.
Three Yellows connect to Three Yellows on the Reg Rec
Red from the Reg/Rec connects directly to the battery/starter solenoid terminal if using one with integrated main fuse
Green from Reg/Rec goes to ground
Black from Reg/Rec connects BOTH to switched positive and field coil (white)
Green from Field Coil connects to ground.
What caught me out was that the black on these units is doing the job of both what would normally be the black and the white, and it is switched internally.
Resistance across the field coil was 5ohms aprox
11
« on: October 10, 2021, 03:45:46 PM »
Hey all,
Was hoping you may be able to shed some insight- I'm driving myself insane with the multimeter and feel I am so very close to getting the bike on the road!
I have the DS replacement reg/rec, with 3x Yellow Wires, 1x Red, 1x Green, 1x Black (with two terminals at the end).
Now obviously this is meant to be plug and play in the new loom, but I've replaced my loom with a m.gadget one, and hence it I need to understand the wiring for this, and given the factory wiring diagrams don't show a combined reg/rec, I am stuck.
Coming off my bike I have the 3 yellow wires, 1x orange and 1x white. I presume these are the 3 phases, a field coil and I'm not sure of the function of the other.
Does anyone know how the DS reg rec needs to be wired in? What the functions of the red, green and black wires are and what they should connect to?
Once I've done that, it's patching the fuel tank and a rear light and I'm good to go.
R
12
« on: June 03, 2021, 01:35:23 PM »
1977 CB550 F
I was under the impression the front wheel bearing retainer had only 4 notches, though this one seems to have a few more?!
Does anyone know what tool is required to remove this as the standard CB500 Front Wheel Bearing Retainer tool doesn't look like it's the right one
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13
« on: May 03, 2021, 08:44:24 PM »
Spent today finishing off the fuel tank- what a difference! Judicious use of a wire wheel seemed to really bring it up nicely. I'm almost tempted to keep it as a bare metal finish with a protective lacquer.
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Before (above) and After (below)!
Now soaking the inside of the tank in white vinegar to deal with any corrosion in there.
Huge electronics and spares order arrives next week so in no particular order the next few stages are to;
- Rebuild carbs
- Mount electronics
- Design loom
- Order wiring
etc...
If anyone has one- I'm on the look out for a spoked rear hub for a CB550- I'd be grateful for any that aren't cracked etc...
I'm also blasting the Lester Mag wheels back to a bare metal finish and removing the layers of paint that have been applied over the years. Ideally I'll keep these as a bare metal finish, though I'll need to work out what protective barrier to apply to the surface.
R
14
« on: May 02, 2021, 04:51:22 PM »
Update!
In the end the bottom ends have gone off to be blasted, and rebuilt by a professional for my own piece of mind over anything else.
I've just been refinishing the fuel tank- I can't seem to get rid of this last bit of corrosion despite using rust remover gel and a good hour or so trying to sand it off- any suggestions for how best to go about getting it up to a paintable surface? Is blasting the way to go?
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Otherwise, Frame 2 is back off to the metal shop as the PO has remounted the fuel tank rubbers in a completely nuts place, so I'm having the original position for the rubbers rebuilt.
Electronics have all been ordered, so whilst the engine is off being rebuilt, I'll start mounting those to the frame and building up the loom.
I'm also stripping the Lester Mag wheels of paint and getting those ready for re-spraying- getting into all the nooks and crannies a massive pain!
15
« on: April 13, 2021, 11:08:04 PM »
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One of the casings once split...
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Some detail of what I found in there
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And again...
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The primary shaft bearing and some marking on the case
A little daunting! I'm trying to get everything to a stage where I can get the cases blasted and all the parts clean before getting everything checked and put together by a pro, to save myself some budget for later...
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