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Messages - hairygit
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2506
« on: November 28, 2011, 02:02:47 PM »
True deal? Stick with mineral oil, change it regularly, and the filter. 172,000 miles on my "winter" CB750F1, Tore the motor down a month ago to replace the camchain, no visible wear on the main bearings, cam towers or rockers, it gets ridden hard, is often thrashed mercilessly, and has NEVER broken down on me. It has the oil changed along with the filter every 2,000 miles 
2507
« on: November 28, 2011, 12:30:32 PM »
Don't waste your hard earned cash on fully synthetic, there are no real advantages to it, and regardless of oil manufacturers claims, change it at least every 2,000 miles, and I have seen threads in other areas of this forum suggesting NOT to use fully synthetic oils as they can be detrimental to the engine. It was designed to run on mineral oil, so that is the best to use. As regards different grades 5W50 or 0W60, unless your area has exceptionally cold weather for much of the year (-15c or lower) you are wasting your money, and 0W60 can allow clutch slip when hot!
2508
« on: November 28, 2011, 09:57:08 AM »
According to the Honda manual, for U.K. use it should be "Premium quality 10W40"
2509
« on: November 23, 2011, 02:30:19 PM »
Depends on how much value you put on your time, but a new pattern one (17mm head) is less than
2510
« on: November 23, 2011, 12:07:13 AM »
DONT grind the head off the bolt! There is a small but significant risk of metal filings getting into the housing, and a risk of damaging the housing itself. A far safer option is to buy or borrow a "wall drive" socket (14mm for standard bolt or 17mm for aftermarket), as these drive the flats on the bolt, so even if the points are rounded, 99 out of a 100 times they will get it off. I have a socket set called "metrinch", bought it about 25 years ago, and as they hold the flats, they work on both imperial and metric bolts/nuts. I seem to recall machine mart do a similar set of wall drive sockets for a reasonable price (certainly less than a replacement bolt or housing!) If you cant get one of those, try hammering a slightly smaller socket onto the bolt, then put a couple of tack welds between the socket and bolt flange (a mate did this to his 500/4 about 20 years ago, and left the socket welded in place, no problems since!
2511
« on: November 22, 2011, 06:08:06 PM »
The exhaust is about 7 years on the bike (I bought 2 complete systems from Dave Silver almost 20 years ago,
2512
« on: November 22, 2011, 04:44:33 PM »
I didn't know there was a series 2 forum either, but I'm definitely a restoration dissenter, mine has never been washed in all the years I've had it, landrovers look so much better dirty, and not one panel is without a dent or scrape on it, and people see it and stay well clear of it! A bit of a contrast compared to my F1
2513
« on: November 22, 2011, 12:05:46 AM »
If you think Taunton is bad for traffic, try going into or out of Exeter at rush hour, the only way you can move is on 2 wheels! 
2514
« on: November 16, 2011, 02:46:53 PM »
The 550 F1 And F2 were BOTH "Supersport" models, as were the 750 F1,F2, and for U.S. market, F3
2515
« on: October 27, 2011, 11:50:48 AM »
That would be a great idea Steve!
2516
« on: October 25, 2011, 11:15:10 AM »
Just found these 836cc big bore kits on e-bay,
2517
« on: October 25, 2011, 11:11:09 AM »
Just been looking through e-bay, and came across these 466cc big bore kits,
2518
« on: October 23, 2011, 11:36:46 AM »
I'll second that 
2519
« on: October 17, 2011, 09:13:10 PM »
Nasty! I agree with lubrication failiure, but not so sure about the silicon theory, as the cam appears completely trashed along its entire length. The chances of silicone blocking ALL the oilways to the top of the engine seems a bit of a long shot to me. I'd be looking at pump failiure, or clogged filter, causing the bypass valve to open, and the resulting low pressure in the oilways as the oil heated up and thinned doing the damage  What do you others think??? 
2520
« on: October 15, 2011, 07:25:47 PM »
I've always stuck with points, if it was good enough for Hondas racing bikes in the 60's, it's good enough for a road going bike! I have even used car condensors (Lucas ones from a mini) and they have been just as reliable as (very expensive!) genuine ones, annual mileage is often 16,000 plus  and NEVER a breakdown!
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