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Messages - cb550k-aaron

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1
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: March 28, 2019, 08:26:30 AM »
I’ll declare here... I’m not a sparky.

But tbh, I think you’re worrying over nothing (ie 1v drop), and if the electrics are otherwise good just put the sidepanels back on & enjoy the bike.

Your post intrigued me, and so I measured the voltages on my 750K2 & 400F.
Both bikes have new everything, including looms, OEM VRs, rectifiers, fuse boxes, overhauled switch gear, Newtronic (breakerless) ignitions (tho’ OEM Coils)... and notably LiFe batteries.

The 750 battery reads 13v (no load & across its terminals), and at the Voltage Regulator (ign on & across Black & Green wires)  this is then 12.6v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drop the voltage at the VR to 12v.

The 400 battery (identical unit) reads 13.1v (no load & across its terminals), and at the VR (ign on & across Black & Green wires) this is then 12.2v.
Coils + Newtronic On (via the kill switch) drops the voltage at the VR to 10.7v. (this surprised me; but given the bike performs faultlessly I’m not gonna go looking for trouble here!)

Your voltage drop, to me, is acceptable... and simply due the ignition switch + various bullet connectors along the way / through the circuit.

The uprated coils indeed take more power than the OEM type, but I fail to see how changing them will ‘cure’ your concern... they drop the voltage for sure, simply meaning the VR will ‘hang in’ longer in order to reach the max charge voltage.

As mentioned previously by Bryan & moorey, you should consider a voltage check under power; unsure of the CB550, but the ‘750 tops off at abouts 14.5V from 4000rpm. This surely will point to whether you’re likely to cook the battery...

A note of caution here... the 750 / 400...& I guess 550 alternators, are on the limit wrt output. Everything switched on (OEM machine), and at low revs you’ll deplete the battery. I found this out from experience... hotwired an ammeter into the battery circuit, and at less than about 3000rpm noticed a drain. I now ride ‘lights off’ when about town etc. (my point is here, your new coils will exacerbate the charging issue)

Finally moorey, take your point in respect of these 1970 machines. I was in a position of only getting to ride my bikes a couple of times a year (worked abroad) and was bored of returning to flat batteries. I talked to the guys at Carrot Batteries, took the punt, and bought the LiFes. Expensive... £150 or so iirc, but these things are amazing. They weigh nothing... it’s like an empty plastic box - wow. They have internal circuitry to tolerate ‘agricultural’ charging (!). But, best of all, they maintain voltage regardless of lack of use... I could go > a year with no worries, no maintenance charging is needed. The final biggy is their longevity... I think mine are abouts 6yo and still going strong - this offsets the initial purchase price somewhat.
(I’ve got a 3rd LiFe in my 2011 MotoGuzzi - again, no issues; really pleased with it)

There is of course a downside to these batteries is you’ll need to buy a special charger... they drain just like any other battery if you leave lights on / excessive cranking etc.
Would I buy them again - probably. Certainly they were fantastic whilst I rarely used the bikes... now, I guess, they’re an expensive luxury.

Anyways... good luck aaron.

Hi Lobo,

I completely understand what your saying and i could be chasing my tail here! as Mentioned by yourself and others ill measure the values when the bike is running and report back.

 My taking on it was, If the Black wire was reading a Lot less than the Battery, the Reg Rec then compensated for that therefore overcharging. I could be wrong tho and a running bike is obviously the key.

I just want a problem free summer this year as every year there's been something wrong lol!

Thanks again guys

2
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: March 28, 2019, 08:21:16 AM »
What are your voltage readings across the battery at  tickover ,2000,  3000,, 5000,rpm
What made you pick a lithium battery when these charging systems were made for lead acid batteries. Different types of batteries require different charging regimes. Lead acid, gel, AGM, lithium etc  unfortunately these days 12v batteries are not just 12v batteries. I would advise anyone with these old bikes to stick to good old refillable lead acid batteries.

I understand what your saying, but i went the Cafe Racer route so very limited space ;)

3
CB500/550 / Re: Dual Disc Conversion
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:38:27 PM »
Bryan, your correct sorry it's the plate and not the retainer. I tapped the hub and as you say used counter sunk screws to keep it in place

4
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:34:45 PM »
Hi Bryan, it's an Electronic style Reg Rec. Solid one

5
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:46:45 PM »
Hi guys, I'm still getting this 1v Drop. It's making me paranoid I'm gonna do in another battery or worse. I bought a proper Reg Rec for a lithium battery which I hope will help.

Basically if I measure at the Battery it's 12.8 but the Black at the Reg Rec it's 11.8. if I unplugged that wire I get about 12.4 at that wire. The coils seem to take a lot of power. Should I consider changing them?

I have this all new...
Loom
Battery
Reg Rec
Ignition switch
Headlight bulb 35w

6
CB500/550 / Re: Dual Disc Conversion
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:37:37 PM »
So, my Fork legs, the Right side one the posts are 3mm closer to the wheel, as is my disc on the hub so I needed absolutely no modifications to mine at all. Everything lines up as it should etc. The only thing I had to do was modify the Speedo retainer by milling off the lugs so it fit snugly inside the actual disc inner. I'll post pictures soon

7
CB500/550 / Re: Dual Disc Conversion
« on: March 15, 2019, 03:54:15 PM »
I'm hopefully going to get round to fitting all this tomorrow, I will post my findings! :)

8
CB500/550 / Re: Dual Disc Conversion
« on: January 19, 2019, 11:00:19 PM »
Hi mate that's good to know.

I have the hub that makes the RH disc sits 3mm closer to the Spokes than the other side. That's why I thought I'd need a spacer. When I married it up today the two Brackets were in the right area so I'm at a loss tbh. Maybe I don't need a spacer at all.

For some reason my front guard bracket won't fit on the inside closer to the fork. It sits on the outside ie the caliper bracket on first then this.

9
CB500/550 / Dual Disc Conversion
« on: January 18, 2019, 10:28:13 PM »
Hi guys, I'm sure this has been covered before but I literally can't find it in the search the answer I need.

I have a 1978 CB550 K3, I'm doing the Dual Disc setup. Both forks have exactly the same mounting positions and dimensions all the same. If I put both discs on my Hub which is Asymmetrical, so the RH disc sits 3mm Closer to the Spokes, from outer edge of the Disc to the other is 124mm. (I always thought a 3mm spacer might be needed.

Now on my calipers the measurement from the inner edge of the Piston side to the other piston side on the LH is 124mm.

Does all this sound right or should I be using spacers on the mounting points or what? I have the Mudguard bracket on but it's on the outside of the caliper bracket ATM and not inside next to the fork. I obviously don't want to be pulling the lever and ending on my head first time.

Thanks in advance

10
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 12, 2018, 11:05:14 PM »
Just wanted to say, big thanks again to everyone on the forum especially @Bryanj, he posted out the Neutral Switch yesterday it came today!!

In and all and we're flying now, neutral indicator and starter both now kicking in. Thanks again fellas

11
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 10, 2018, 06:58:29 PM »
Only 500/550 ones mate so yes. I only sell them as pairs with rotor and they cost me a lot to import so it comes out at £30 posted to you. If you want one PM me youre details

Perfect!! I messaged you there. Pairs is 100%

12
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 10, 2018, 12:14:59 PM »
As a temporary job until you get a neutral switch find rhe wires in the headlamp shell that would go to the clutch lever switch and join them together

Do you have Neutral switches? I was informed by another member you possibly had?

13
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 09, 2018, 10:11:09 PM »
As you have a 12v+ supply at the  solenoid (Yellow/red wire) from the starter button, you will also need a neutral switch or clutch switch to complete the circuit.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the F model?...the earlier CB550 K0,K1 does not apply

I do in my Manual yes. Is there no way I can bypass? I'd like a neutral switch tbh but I can't get my hands on the Metal part that goes into the Left side casing, I have the cam though

14
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 09, 2018, 09:31:24 PM »
I tried the screwdriver trick and it turned over the starter  ;)

15
CB500/550 / Re: 1978 CB550 Electricals
« on: October 09, 2018, 07:53:28 PM »
The earlier CB550K had a 5 wire safety switch, its possible that the later CB550K3 had a 2 wire safety switch which was also fitted to the F model.

Have you fitted a diode (as image) to the 2-way socket?

Hi mate. Yes I used the old one from the Original wiring loom. It's as you have pictured there. If I measure the red and yellow wire attached to the starter Solenoid it's 0v until I hit the button it goes 12v+ but nothing happens.

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