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Messages - cb550k-aaron
16
« on: October 09, 2018, 07:29:18 PM »
Maybe I've not read the posts properly, but is your bike a CB550..K..or.. F wiring looms are different
It's a 550K3
17
« on: October 09, 2018, 07:20:31 PM »
There's a small 2 pin diode/rectifier thing is that what you mean?
The loom is for a 78 from David Silver and Switch is a replica of the Original with the Starter button and Red kill at the top and the Headlight modes.
If that's any help at all
18
« on: October 09, 2018, 09:12:24 AM »
Fair enough I might just take a punt on a new one tbh as I need it sorted out.
Another question, I installed the new wiring loom but for some reason I can't get the Starter button to work. I don't have a neutral switch or clutch switch and think that's the problem, do they need earthing or? Thanks again
19
« on: October 08, 2018, 10:07:58 PM »
So, with the Ignition on and bike not started.
All earth's seem perfect, All the same readings there.
Then Mulitimeter on battery Negative, Solenoid perfect, fuses perfect both ends, all red wires in and around battery all good.
Then,
Battery: 12.7
Key switch Red in : 12.0
Black Out: 11.8
If I unplug the Keyswitch, Battery is 12.7 and Red in Plug at Keyswitch is 12.6
20
« on: October 08, 2018, 08:18:17 PM »
Still having issues. The Black wire that goes into the Reg Rec is reading roughly 1v under what the battery says. Is this correct or should it not be basically the same as the battery voltage? I'm scared of over charging basically
21
« on: October 08, 2018, 04:38:04 PM »
The black is a switched power and nearest place,electrically, to battery is at the ignition switch
Will give it a go, thanks!
22
« on: October 03, 2018, 11:20:42 AM »
Guys,
Having problems with my electrics, basically the new solid state Reg Rec i fitted, on the Black wire coming back into it is showing 1v Less than the Battery, therefore its telling the rectifier that the battery needs charging more when it really maybe doesn't.
Ill list what I have changed,
1) New Loom
2) New Fuse Box
3) New Coils
4) Dynatek Ignition in place of Points
5) New Hand Controls both sides
6) New lithium Battery
I've been through everything, earths, everything being wired properly, the stator everything!
I came to the Conclusion last night, that it's the Dynatek drawing the extra power because if I unplug it the 1v appears on the Black wire again.
I basically have to Run a new Black or Splice into the System before the White & Black that goes to the Coils that the Dynatek Connects to, has anyone got any idea where i could do this?
Rear light or horn maybe? The White and Black goes the the RH Switch which is Connected to Black as well.
I just don't want to Ruin a new Battery or anything else, so any suggestions at all would be appreciated!
23
« on: September 24, 2018, 11:21:16 AM »
550 with choke cable! Would it be a K3 with PD carbs? If so they are a swine to get right on standard setup never mind with the alterations you have made. I suspect bigger pilot jets may help as those carbs are set to run very lean and your mods have made it leaner, trouble is they are press in jets and not readily available. Only place i know is Sirius in Canada and they do very few sizes
That's the very one!! Tbh, I'd nearly go as far as saying it's maybe too rich. It's very Dark Brown. That's after a good run and slow down with clutch in and plug out. There's absolutely no white on any plug at all. Maybe pull the needle up a clip and try it
24
« on: September 23, 2018, 08:32:26 PM »
It starts nearly first time when cold and runs and sounds perfect.
Plugs are a Dark Brown colour when out.
It has 4-1 Headers with Pods. I have 110 Jets and down to the 3 nick on Needle.
New choke cable too.
Plugs only new less than 500 miles ago as are the Leads and Caps
25
« on: September 23, 2018, 05:16:53 PM »
Hi guy's, My CB550 for some reason is very hard to start with the kick or Battery when I've been out a run and then stopped. I have a Dynatek ignition system. Everything is all timed and valves perfect. Anyone any thoughts? I got caught out yesterday and had to trailer it home 
26
« on: September 11, 2018, 11:57:56 AM »
I just wanted to say Thanks to everyone in this Thread that helped me out with Advice and pointers, links etc.
Massive help 300/400 miles later and it's better than it's ever been!
Aaron
27
« on: May 01, 2018, 08:28:47 PM »
28
« on: April 30, 2018, 09:26:24 PM »
That sound will be the ratchet pawls inside the kickstarter gear, it's normal but with the casings on and the engine running you don't hear it.
Thought that but just wanted to make 100% sure. Coming along nicely and everything is all Ceramic Coated. Treated myself to a dynatek ignition too
29
« on: April 30, 2018, 07:07:39 PM »
Guy's stupid question but I'm asking it anyway.
Engine out being rebuilt atm
The Kickstarter shaft etc. We built it but when the chain drive is moving it clicks for want of a better explanation? Is this correct?
30
« on: April 10, 2018, 02:34:18 PM »
I'm not sure if a bottom end IS the way to go TBH, there is a lot of damage sure BUT the problem is the new bottom end isn't guaranteed to be any better unless it comes with one of course. TwoWheelSpares on E-Bay have some complete engines but no bottom ends, your never sure on what the crank shells are going to be like on another engine, his may be new but they don't transfer as we know unless your really really lucky.
Really blowing the pics up shows what I suspect has happened, just above the mainshaft 3rd gear where it is missing 2 teeth there is another tooth with just the leading edge missing, I suspect this came off, jammed between the gear teeth just below it when second was engaged, this would mean this gear cluster was sitting to the left, when the 2 teeth came off they were in close proximity to countershaft second and they jammed between the 2 gears, would explain why no teeth are missing from mainshaft second, which is puzzling as you'd expect them to be meshed but again I think maybe third was in the process of being selected. The selectors look fine, which again is puzzling as you'd expect them to be the cause of this but they clearly aren't. Maybe the PO was a bit clumsy and started the process by catching the 3rd gear tooth edge. Looking again at the pics you can see new damage just under the primary chain and again to the left of that, these were no doubt the result of all the debris getting flung out of the gearbox.
I'm not convinced the bearing spun in the casings, I've never seen them do that before even when the knock pins are squashed flat to the case as in this case, I'd like to see some pics of those bearings in detail to say for sure though, if they had I'd expect to see some damage to the knock pins and I can't see that.
I'd also think about just replacing the entire box,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB550-CB-550-K-F-Four-1974-1978-Gearbox-Gear-Box-Assembly/332536863177?hash=item4d6cbdd9c9:g:V5oAAOSwzRFabzr4
If you just buy a bottom end your going to need a complete set of gaskets as well, plus some time stripping both engines to see if there is any damage. However I'd also point out that the damage caused by crushing the 2 knock pins can sometimes be significant, I'd like to see pics of the sprocket area from the outside to see if the pin came through the casing and also of the clutch area for the same reason.
Oddjob this one!! Lol so thanks. Yes both sealed and bearings sitting correctly too. Yes but it's all a part of the learning process. I'll know all this for again and so will my Dad. Dry run with the Gearbox in last night and it's engaging perfectly. I noticed a slight twist in the Gear Change rod, specifically on the end that has the fork where the clutch is so I ordered a new one of them.
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