Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Andrewd2667 on December 05, 2016, 03:20:35 PM
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I know that there have many discussion son this topic, but wanted to contribute my experience on this one that works.
Basically on my bike 1976 CB400/4 the oil filter bolt was rock solid and I did try everything to remove which included Plus Gas, WD40, GT85, brute force, breaker bar, spanner, socket and extension, vice grips, hammer, propane blow torch etc - nothing it would not budge a mm.
My neighbour suggested using heat combined with Coca cola on the bolt especially around the flange area - the reason being is aluminium oxide is formed which is holding the bolt.
I used the blowtorch several times ( three) to heat the bolt and applied the coke with a turkey baster then just left it for two days, went into the garage today and the bolt moved quite easily - I thought I had won the lottery.
I was close to using a hacksaw to get the oil filter off but this worked and stopped any damage to the oil filter housing - hope this helps anyone else going through the same pain.
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Nice one, top tip. Was it diet coke or full fat? ;D
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Good stuff full fat coca-cola, my older sister used to work in a garage and to get the oil off of the forecourt they used full fat coca-cola and it does work, but never heard of it being used for bolt removal, will keep this one in the memory bank.
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Actually its the combination of getting it hot and the cooling it rapidly that breaks the joint (expansion/contraction). I do exactly the same thing but use PlusGas easing oil instead of Coke. That trick works very well for shifting stuck in exhaust studs as well, you can occasionally even hear the joint crack as it releases. Paul Daniels Stuff, or is the Jack Daniels Stuff?
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It's nice when you get something undone which was giving you a big problem. These are pretty vulnerable to road salt being just behind the front wheel and in the firing line for everything which is laying around.
The small bolt head is purposely sized to try and prevent too much torque being used to do them up in the first place. I tighten them down while just about turning the filter housing back and forth to feel when the housing has squashed the o-ring until the filter casting just about contacts the crankcase to make sure of no leaks, but definitely no tighter than that.