Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: El__burro on August 10, 2015, 08:55:32 AM
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Good morning, last night i received a slap on my face when I noticed the 2 tiny holes in my fuel tank.
I guess by removing the paint a bit I'll find some more.
Any ideas on what is best to fix this.
I have seen some paste to close the holes, any good? Any brand?
Good day
El__Burro
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It might sound crazy but it could be welded. I've seen it done before by a chap who filled the tank with water first. When full of water there are no fumes to ignite so although I wouldn't risk it personally it can be done if caution is observed. In your case the holes are underneath and not seen so maybe worth considering?
Steve
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I did consider that option but only if no other solution is better.
Welding could perforate the material.
Tank needs to be sealed so been washed out already.
Thank you
el__burro
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I've had that problem too. I brazed plates over the bottom of the tank but 2 further problems arose;
More holes appeared because the bottom of the tank is as thin as foil.
The rust has a tendency to block the fuel filter.
I used a (modified) Superdream tank until I found a replacement in a breakers but I would consider a tank lining kit, but don't ask me which is the best.
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noooooo.
lets stay positive.
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I just don't want you wasting your time brazing, welding or filling holes.
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I have used some epoxy type stuff (not sure of the name) to plug a leak on a fuel tank and then done all practice week and 2 x 3lap sidecar races at the Isle of Man without a problem, and thats with 45 litres on board.
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No matter how many holes you plug up there's always another one, and you still get fuel starvation from the rust blocking the filter. Been there, done that.....
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No matter how many holes you plug up there's always another one, and you still get fuel starvation from the rust blocking the filter. Been there, done that.....
Same here you think its sorted then months later your lovely new paintwork is fucked :-[ were its sprung another leak.
Mick
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I have been there with restorations , in the end I have had the tank shot blasted then you can see the real extent of the holes, these can be brazed and after checking with a gallon of white spirit (not water) that there's no leaks use a tank sealer kit say from frosts restoration or similar.
After that have the tank painted. Nothing worse than fuel leaking when your out on a run somewhere.
No real cheap fix.
Either that or find a new tank somewhere
Good luck....
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By the way, you can wash out the tank with a degreaser and cleaner, frosts do them.
They won't smell of fuel and you will get someone to braze or weld it.
If it smells they won't want to weld it.
'BOOM'
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I Have a tank spare here if interested.
Just pm me with a phone number.
Rich
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here is the tank bottom after sanding it for 5 minutes.
i am sure more washing will bring more holes.
is mig welding any good?
regards
el__burro(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/12/c38f7331ef93ea2e22ab4ce0e8b79157.jpg)
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I reckon you would blow holes if you try to mig weld it, even on a low current. I would consider Rich's offer of a replacement if it was me. You will forever be wondering if more holes will develop if you weld/braze it plus it could ruin a very expensive paint job if it does.
Ash
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I recon that will come up OK, if brazed. Seeing I am next in line on Rich's tank ;D ;D ;D
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I've seen less holes in a bingo card, perhaps dump it.
If your a true restoration guy with lots of time you can repair it,
Weld a plate over the whole bottom ?
What is the bike model again ?
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Well let's say that
on one side, another tank may have the same problem.
I thought mine was immaculate.
Hopefully Rich's is.
I have 2 other tanks stripped off that could eventually come as a good part swap.
This sounds like a once in a lifetime opportunities.
Ps. it's a cb750 k2.
Tank is different from others.
Thank you.
El__burro
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You dont have to get it hot enought o brake, just cut patches and slder them on
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Hi,
In the past, I have had good long term results with tinplate and solder.
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Well let's say that
on one side, another tank may have the same problem.
I thought mine was immaculate.
Hopefully Rich's is.
I have 2 other tanks stripped off that could eventually come as a good part swap.
This sounds like a once in a lifetime opportunities.
Ps. it's a cb750 k2.
Tank is different from others.
Thank you.
El__burro
If you have another 2 tanks, then why not use one of them ?
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Because they are not a straight fit.
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Because they are 250/360 tanks? And by swap you meant swap for a 750 tank?
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If anyone does not need one or needs another..
Surely 750 are less common but it is worth asking.
Thanks
El__burro
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what tank is that in the picture above?
I am thinking of adapting it but probably end up selling it.
any idea?
any offers?
thanks
el__burro
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CB250G5 CB360G5 twin (the ones with the sh*te engines) Try offering it on hondatwins.net or eBay
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what about solder,or silver solder small plates over the holes ?? if it works for radiators ??
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Thanks, hopefully these 250 and 350 g5 will become very popular soon.
John, "unfortunately" I am on holiday but I am thinking of trying mig welding the holes once back.
Thanks
El__burro(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/22/70f36d0f0f53fc5523e95119de5ea96c.jpg)
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I would braze or solder the holes and use a proper epoxy liner inside. Mig will just blow it to hell being that thin.
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Aye, what he said. It'll s4ill leak again though unless you use some tank lining stuff.
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Leave the poor man be, I bet all he can think about whilst swimming in the warm waters of wherever he is , is his petrol tank with holes.
Looks like one of the Spanish islands , maybe Greece ?
Looks like a cove in Majorca I have been too last year
Sun, sea and petrol tanks...how better could life be.
Rest assured the holes will be there when you return
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It's south of France.
True, it's quiet sad to think about that while on holiday.
Last summer I was looking for a tank as well.
It may be a hot weather reaction.
Regards
El__Burro
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In terms of soldering/brazing what is
the best option. I have one of this gas can with the "gun" and the pen like soldering tool. (As in the picture) I'm not sure if they're any good.
What's the best soldering material?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/27/0efaf759918b813b2f6ff333a48311ea.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/27/b87cd99f131150bcc943101efbf5ef00.jpg)
Thanks
El__burro
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That is fine for solder, not sure about braze - for that I use oxy acetalene because I have it anyway. However, solder should be fine for a fuel tank - our old landrover tank was originally soldered together and lasted 50 years or more, the soldered joints are still fine, pinholes in the tank have put it out of use til I get around to re doing it. I brazed it up about 8 years ago but must have missed a bit. Solder is probably better in that it is lower tempreature so hopefully less chance of distortion and / or blowing holes in it. However I like oxy acetealene as it will quickly highlight any thinn bits if you play the flame over the metal, thin stuff will go red very quick and I have found some pretty bad frame rot before things broke this way.
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Almost there.
Back from holidays and straight into it.
After a nice clean inside, today I have tried to close the holes. So far no water leak.
should I sand it down?
next week i should receive the POR15.
Thanks
El__burro
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Good day,
once the fuel tank is sealed i need to connect it to the carbs.
I've been looking online for a proper way to do this but have not found a good explanation or picture.
The fuel tap has 2 "exit"
I've learned that one is for carbs 1&2 and the other for 3&4.
Yet not sure whats the best to routing the fuel lines.
Thanks for any help.
el__burro
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Eh.. I don't get it....
But first the connection of the hoses... it doesn't matter. Left right or the other way around. All the lines are connected in the carburetor.
Why 2 lines? 1 is for reserve and one for normal driving. So you see: left or right reserve doesn't matter.
The tank.... Clean it out with vinegar and get a sealant. The clear one not that red 2 component stuff. Throw it in... turn the tank. Let the leftover out and do it again next day.
The tank will have a plasic seal on the inside. Like a tank of plastic in your steal tank.
Please only use this if your tank has a hole, not simply because it is rusty.
And make sure the tank is completely dry on the inside before you start coating.
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Sorry Menno you are wrong both pipes feed both main and reserve
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You've done it now but it would have better to recess the pinholes with a punch slightly so that the solder sits flush. Hope that 's the end of it.
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Yes Bryanj, you're right. Both lines are feeds, in on position as well in reserve position. Sorry about that. That also makes more sense why the lines are interchangable I guess..
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What's wrong with lining the tank because its rusty, that's what its for? If you just clean the rust off it will just go rusty again, and the Ethanol will eat it alive?
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I've had three liners fail, compared to the mess it makes I'd rather remove the rust, or even just collect rust in a filter.
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I've had three liners fail, compared to the mess it makes I'd rather remove the rust, or even just collect rust in a filter.
Fair point.
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