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Topics - bigmockuk
1
« on: July 21, 2023, 10:59:36 PM »
Had to strip the head off the 550k3 a few times for one reason or another and found each time that the oil seals between the barrel and head are flattened and compressed,first of all is there somewhere that does these seals without the need to buy a whole engine gasket set? and secondly is it possible (or has anyone done it) that instead of using oil seals that it would be possible to drill n fit dowels instead?
im thinking it should be possible to have tight fitting dowels which would allow the oil to pass up into the head without the chance of oil getting sucked past the seals into 1 or 4 cylinders?
2
« on: December 15, 2017, 09:37:51 PM »
I stripped the carb bank early this year and followed to a tee the pdf instructions for the pd46a carbs,at first it looked a daunting task being my first time but read first before anything and as usual i like to understand how things actually work and why.did everything methodically step by step and when it got to no 3 i decided it ws easier to tap out the pin on the throttle stop rather than mess with the throttle actuator! so after thorough cleaning and removing pilot jet using twist/pull i got everything clean.the fuel rail tube seals snapped trying to remove one of them and them each one thereafter.i bought this o-ring set from halfords (i`ll need to take a pic) they worked a treat,perfect fit and also the smaller ones are exact diameter for the mixture screws too!.built the lt back up and refitted the throttle stop in exact place i removed it from.bench synronized using thin metric rule from top of slides and each one appeared to lift the same,got them fitted and bike ran fine,started first time each time but to date if when its ticking over,i try to twist throttle further in the off position,engine will cut out! each slide lifts and closes the same and when the throttle is closed against the throttle stop screw there still appears to be enough movement to shut off engine.ive tried using a microscope to see if the slides are moving further down but cant detect they are yet must be as nothing else could surely move? the throttle actuator does move,yes but not a slide.the carbs have still to be balanced but dont think this could cause this? should the actuator hit a bump stop as it looks like it could if it were to travel far enough ?any ideas from anyone welcome thanks
3
« on: December 12, 2017, 08:22:50 PM »
I must be doing something wrong here,dont think so but must be.Allways had 2/3 silencers running cold or misfiring ( they run somtimes) and blaming 40yrs old boyer ignition module so,bought points back plate+new points/condensers and set left set of points to 14 thou when fully open,then set right points the same,turned back plate and using bulb/wires got it to light as 1/4 marks aligned.did same with 2/3 points back plate til marks aligned.bike reluctantly starts but no power and stutters,totally flat sound! and cuts out but would continue to tick over roughif restarted,real rough,no 3 misfiring badly.got freezing cold and tired so ended up moving back plate anti-clockwise fully and engine shot into life so moved no 2/3 back plate and amazing difference but tickover rough.only thing is,timing is well out but it runs with purpose? question is tho....why wont it run after static timing was spot on? static shows completely different from what the strobe says.any ideas as im getting exhausted with this cheers.p.s. i run pods with original pd46a jets and plugs/manifolds are badly sooted black but dry, thanks
4
« on: August 04, 2017, 02:10:06 PM »
Im Thinking the alernator coil windings have shorted out,wondered if anyone can confirm this.ive did a continuity test between all 3 yellow wires and that appears ok however theres also continuity between any 3 and earth.ive had a close look and altho they look fine the internal windings could be shorted out.ive read there should be nothing between these wires and earth.
5
« on: September 11, 2016, 07:13:23 PM »
started work on the bike over 8 mths ago,stripped the whole lot down,as you do.with the bike lying in a garage for over 26 yrs everything rubber had either perished or became brittle,the to-do list was long but not just as costly as originally thought but dear enough.just finished rebuilding the engine with new seals/rings etc.Its not done yet tho and still got a few things to renew but its dam good to finally hear it running! still got carbs to balance and ignition timing to check with strobe. no 4 torpedo is shot to bits while no 3 is loud (i gathered it would be with the pile of rust i got out of it).it`ll take it bit yet to get it finished but theres now light at the end of a long tunnel.progress here.... https://youtu.be/NbyrdmwpQfc
6
« on: September 08, 2016, 07:20:46 AM »
can anyone tell me if its natural for the valve clearances to close up on a cb550 rebuilt engine,this is my first 550 and after working on it for over 8 mths its finaly running! what a buzz it was on sunday to hear it run but...only no1 cyl was running properly and others were missfiring.later found out carbs were not seated properly on stubs and 6 valves had closed up.no1 was very smoky so i stripped head off it thinking i had forgot a valve seal as found a spare in the gasket set i got but all was fine.rebuilt it up and wow it ran great.after ten mins going round garage area it stopped as if fuel ran out and would not start but turns over,i think valves may have closed up again will check later today.no1 does not smoke at all after rebuild and all 4 fire fine.this is this vid of it running on sunday albeit rough then... https://youtu.be/NbyrdmwpQfc.will upload yesterdays vid later today
7
« on: August 30, 2016, 10:33:37 PM »
Hi i Would like to know if someone can verify that there IS a vent hole on no3 carb on the PD46A.According to the pdf there is a vent hole on the left side leading to the float chamber.i have this protruding part but carb 1 and two has it also and there is no sign of air being able to pass thru,also no4 has a similar protrusion but with a brass fitment inside with an apparent hole.these carbs were admittedly badly chocked up but i let carb cleaner sit for ages in the inner/upper float chamber but i dont think there is a vent hole and what would be the possible reason when the brass overflow tube would act like a vent hole? can someone confirm/deny that this protusion IS in fact a vent hole cheers
8
« on: August 04, 2016, 10:03:02 PM »
Hi all, ive got a question about the spacing of the cluth plates,i`ve always seen that plain/friction plates alternate each other and yet i see 2 plain plates held together with rivots in the middle of the sequence? ive looked at umpteen pics of same engine and dont see this space,can anyone throw some light on this thanks,i`ll upload a pic that shows this space created by these 2 plain plates
9
« on: April 16, 2016, 08:51:14 PM »
Hi everyone im still quietly working away on the bike,like i`ve said before i`ve never stripped one of these but am used to twins and am doing really well up til now.i found most seals were in poor condition so bought a full gasket/seal set from ebay,just came today,the problem is im not sure about where some go! for instance 1st up is 8 green seals 91301-200-000 nothing like these came off when i stripped it down? 2nd up is 4 91319-323-000 which i think is for the head side covers but i think they would break before they got on as not stretchy enough? 3rd up is 4 91305-323-000 not a clue and 4 of these 91303-035-000 and also 11 tappet cover seals or are some spares,any help at all would be appreciated as spent the evening trying to fathom it out,thanks
10
« on: July 03, 2015, 04:57:40 PM »
Its the first time i`ve stripped a bike down starting at the rear,i normally start at the front and work my way back,then again its the first time i`ve worked on a 550 four that had been transformed into a touring bike with the heavy full rickman fairing/crash bars and the overall size of things so maybe some intimidation crept in when i first got my hands on it and thought ok... i`ll start at the back? took a while sawing off the heavy frame that had been welded in place to hold the fairing and its starting to look original (except for the alloys but their staying cause they suit what i want).not an awful lot of rust for its age so happy with that,doing some multi-tasking between engine/electrics/cleaning/spraying,going for a black/chrome/aluminium here so have a few good pics in my mind what it should look like when its finished! and with the needed parts/good info from some of you guys it`ll be worth the wait! onwards and upwards.
11
« on: June 26, 2015, 10:19:29 PM »
Hi all,i removed the centre stand to give it a right good clean/repaint,im usually very carefull to keep dismantled parts in their respenctive assemblies but im stumped as to where this plate came from,i remember seeing it low down on the right side,dam sure of it.i had a few parts sanded down for respray,can anyone refresh my memory thanks
12
« on: June 22, 2015, 11:24:10 AM »
Hey all,been looking at my camchain guide off the 550k3 and thought at first it was ok but looking at pics on google the one`s i seen are all straight? well i could throw this out the door and it`ll hit me on the back of the head so...straight or bent? haha first time working on a 550 so not sure.
13
« on: June 21, 2015, 12:15:33 AM »
Hi, anyone any idea what this twin disc front wheel could be from? its a close match to a 400n except it has less (and larger) spacings around the centre of the disc than the 400.it is 19" front 18" rear with drum.if i know what it is i can renew the fork seals and the rear shoes which lost its linings to corrosion thanks
14
« on: June 20, 2015, 11:11:37 PM »
Hi All,been a while since i was on due to other commitments,started getting back into the bike,no4 piston was seized and i broke a ring trying to free them up so will replace all rings on all pistons,cylinders are all fine.since the whole top half was removed i decided to take the rest out of the bike to thoroughly clean up the frame.it would appear the whole frame was at some point "coated" with some sort of durable long lasting coating which after 25+ yrs is still perfect! no idea what it is but its amazing stuff.In the process just now of scrapping away all the loose black enamel from around the engine prior to respaying with more enamel.still trying to figure out what front end was put on the bike so would welcome any thoughts thanks.the left fork seal leaks slightly so wanna replace that and was stunned to find the rear shoe friction linings had came off and stuck to the inner drum! so need to find out how to measure those so i can replace.Thanks for all the previous help/info.
15
« on: January 01, 2015, 06:24:44 PM »
Can anyone recommend where to buy a full set of rings for the 550k3? took the whole top half off and almost all is in really good condition,rockers/arms/camshaft were well lubed as was valves,however no4 piston was seized due to bike being laid up,first compression ring,it was seized fully shut (broke when trying to remove after 2 carefull hrs!) 2nd ring was seized half way round,scrapper was fine so gonna replace all rings,bores seem perfectly ok and oiled,bike has only 23,000 genuine miles so parts should have been relatively good, but where to buy rings from? i have seen some jap imports from ebay on the go?? any info most welcome thanx
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