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Messages - bigmockuk
16
« on: December 12, 2017, 10:12:20 PM »
"Jon" yes i had the bike running real good then had battery prob so jumped the bike off the car (switched off) and thought i must have fried something basically so bought new coils and same intermittent fault was there so thought it could be boyer so trying to go with points set up to see if it runs or how it runs.the boyer does not have weights either just centre cam and an annoying plate with 180 magnets that are not aligned to anything so have to guess thru trial/error as to when their lined up."K2-K6" i earthed one lead to engine casing and other to blue or yellow wire on the points with ignition on.there was no real difference from new coils to old coils so might be better with original coils which were not as flimsy.with boyer and using strobe light its impossible to line up the "F" mark it line up with full advance marks,should this be right
17
« on: December 12, 2017, 09:34:52 PM »
just a thought,is it possible the auto advance unit i bought is from another model? maybe cb500 or that
18
« on: December 12, 2017, 09:14:03 PM »
wow thanks for the quick relies guys! right first off,i fitted new ngk cr8es plugs,got new 5ohm caps and cheap 5 ohm coils from ebay,2/3 still acted the same so disconected wires at boyer module and ran original wires up to the coils and fitted a plate with new points/condensers from ebay.i thought if i went back to conventional ignition and it worked this would prove the boyer faulty."john" you mention the ignition cam being 180 out? are you refering to the lobed cam on the advance unit? that could be poss i guess? "deltarider the lugs are "r" i wouldnt have thought that would really have any effect? K2-K6 you say light should be on mine is off then go off? mine is off and comes on when points open,strange."hairygit i know what you mean by running weak but mine is exact opposite tottallysooted up like pure black but im thinking maybe a malfunction in ignition could cause this?.im running 4-4 original pipes and have cleaned faces of the points.if i connect strobe to no1 the light dont flash but will if connected to no 4.it will flash if connected to no2 but not no3 this cant be right surely it should flas with all 4?
19
« on: December 12, 2017, 08:22:50 PM »
I must be doing something wrong here,dont think so but must be.Allways had 2/3 silencers running cold or misfiring ( they run somtimes) and blaming 40yrs old boyer ignition module so,bought points back plate+new points/condensers and set left set of points to 14 thou when fully open,then set right points the same,turned back plate and using bulb/wires got it to light as 1/4 marks aligned.did same with 2/3 points back plate til marks aligned.bike reluctantly starts but no power and stutters,totally flat sound! and cuts out but would continue to tick over roughif restarted,real rough,no 3 misfiring badly.got freezing cold and tired so ended up moving back plate anti-clockwise fully and engine shot into life so moved no 2/3 back plate and amazing difference but tickover rough.only thing is,timing is well out but it runs with purpose? question is tho....why wont it run after static timing was spot on? static shows completely different from what the strobe says.any ideas as im getting exhausted with this cheers.p.s. i run pods with original pd46a jets and plugs/manifolds are badly sooted black but dry, thanks
20
« on: August 31, 2017, 09:09:05 PM »
Just bought new coils from ebay £18.95 each for the 550/4 k3,bike started up fine and all cylinders running at more or less same temp,i did have a prob with one cylinder not firing properly before this.the coil leads are flimsy in comparison to originals but way long enough.the colour code of wires differ but connectors are the same.plugnplay!
21
« on: August 19, 2017, 10:37:48 PM »
Just thought i would share my findings here.New coils arrived along with new all-in-one rectifier/regulator so thought i would try it all out.First off i found that the existing rectifier that should have had a connector-conector had been removed and all wires from that were bared/joined together!so new conectors are needed there but in the meantime ive fitted spades and taped up.i tested the battery before startup and it read 11.70 volts,after startup it read 11.30 volts and no amount of revs changed that.i took a reading at the black wire for the regulator and find its slightly less than that of the battery by half a volt.connecting that to the new rect/reg unit and nothing comes from the white wire.i put the black back onto the original reg still on the bike and get a reading of 10.70 from the white wire terminal so connected white wire to original reg and am now reading 12.3 volts across the battery at 2000rpm.so although i first read a short in the alternator,its charging using new rectifier and old regulator! any thoughts welcome...should i run it with new rect/old reg? the new unit came from ebay and stated it was for the 550 four
22
« on: August 08, 2017, 11:38:30 PM »
Hi As far as i know you have the three yellow wires coming from the rotor and a simple continuity test would show all 3 are connected (which they are at each of the other end of the wire in the windings) a meter set to show a reading when both probes are touched together should show the exact same reading if any two of the 3 yellow wires are touched with the probes but there should not be any reading if one probe is placed on the metal body which carries the windings and any/all 3 yellow wires.if you were to place a probe on the metal body and the other probe on a yellow wire and it showed a reading then there is a short circuit which is not good which is what is happening to my own.hope this helps?
23
« on: August 07, 2017, 10:42:40 PM »
have you had any time to run a meter across it to see if it has shorted or that
24
« on: August 07, 2017, 10:40:57 AM »
Any of you guys happen to have a spare for sale that works? i contacted westcountry windings on sat and their looking at £125 to have the windings redone.
25
« on: August 05, 2017, 10:56:59 PM »
That was an interestig point about water ingress and corrosion,this bike lay garaged for over 25yrs and when i stripped alternator it was all dry just some light corrosion.the battery had been removed at time of storage.in fact i still chat to previous owner it might be worth asking if he had issues with charging system.I set the multimeter to what Bryan had said,2000k and it initially read "1" .Then on first contact with either yellow wire the scale jumps about then settles at -0.00.it does this between any yellow wire and earth too.still to take pics.the windings are very firm and no obvious signs of melting.the "star" point looks bare but not near anything.I tapped up the 3 loose ends of the wires where they leave the windings as they looked like they were touching each other and bare too.you would think looking at the temps you gave Ash that the wires should not melt?
26
« on: August 05, 2017, 10:32:52 AM »
cheers for the info on the meter bryan,i`ll be up the garage the whole day today as got tank to spray and side panels to rub down n prime.i`ll do that test and take some pics and report back later tonight when i get in.
@Ash,ye the reason im thinking along the lines of insulation breaking down is that since ive had the bike runningi it gets pretty dam hot! im talking not being able to put your hand against the alternator housing any longer than a few secs! so would not be surprised if insulation did melt.would be interesting to know the temp at what that would happen,but strange how yourself bryan has never came across it on this type of bike assuming it has happened? hopefully find out by the end of the day! cheers guys
27
« on: August 04, 2017, 09:53:26 PM »
this is the meter i used and set at 20k ohms
28
« on: August 04, 2017, 09:48:46 PM »
Bryan you mentioned earlier to make sure i was using lead to lead ohm and not lead to earth,excuse my lack of knowledge here but would the wrong meter setting actually give a reading between the yellows and earth in that case
29
« on: August 04, 2017, 09:15:02 PM »
hi Ashimoto you say you came across the same problem? wa that maybe due to yrs of heat breaking down the coating and allowing the wire to touch metal?
30
« on: August 04, 2017, 09:12:07 PM »
Hi Bryanj not sure what the diff settings are on this mutimeter its just a cheap meter ive had for yrs.the ohm settings say like 20/200/etc.when i touch both probes together i get a reading and when i touch any yellow wire and earth i get a reading.ive taken the alternator cover off and taken out the rotor to inspect the windings which to me all look rigid and nothing indicating anything could touch any metal.i was thinking is it possible with all the yrs of use and the heat involved would it be ossible for the coating to break down inside the rotor where the winding pass thru?
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