Honda-SOHC

Quote from: Nurse Julie on May 30, 2018, 03:12:45 PM

CB500....clutch cable down through hole in clocks mounting bracket, along under off side of tank, over through between carbs 1 & 2, down to top of clutch housing. Throttle cables, over top of offside ear, down through and inside offside fork, along and under tank to big butterfly thingy. Can supply photos if needed.

Thanks Julie. By “offside” do you mean “right” and what is the “big butterfly thingy”? ;-)

Yes, offside is right side as sitting on bike. The big butterfly thingy is what I call the part on the top of the carbs where the throttle cables attach to. Just thinking, the CB500 I looked at here is a UK K1, not sure if it makes any difference it not.

Forget the above, I have just remembered you have a CB500 not a CB750.....doh. I will report back on the CB500 in a minute.

Thanks Tim. Give me a shout if you need any help with anything.

Welcome to the forum. What condition is your bike in and what are your plans?

Quote from: Nurse Julie on May 29, 2018, 08:36:33 PM

Snap (literally)   

Here is a pic of a broken push rod that has a very similar look to yours. These look like machined ends but are not, it is just a rotational wear pattern.


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That's a terrible pun

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That's good for me John, I'm not a Master of Puns like yourself 

I used re constituted foam, 1" thick and stuck 2 together with HD spray glue. Easy to cut to shape and sculpt with an electric carving knife. After I made the vinyl cover, I stretched it over the metal base Trig made for me and pulled the cover really tight and held it in place with that silver carpet tape. We then used this metal upholstery strip but cut the spikes off and drilled through the holes in the metal strip and the metal pan and held the strips in place with pop rivetts.
I'm just about to make another seat for another project bike so I will take some pics of the underneath so you can see what it looks like.
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Blimey, this is all getting very complicated. The standard CB500 clutch push rod was 1 piece, with two hardened ends. One end has a machined cup for the ball bearing. The other end has a machined dome to fit into the mushroom. A usual 'bodge' when the rod broke and the two broken alloy ends rubbed together and wore down, was to insert another ball bearing in the gap, which is chrome, which then wears by the rotation of the rod, into the alloy surfaces, making it look like the ball bearing had been there all the time, which it had not. This constant wearing also causes swarf which is not a good thing.We have seen broken push rods that have worn so much that there have been 2 ball bearings inserted between 2 breaks, just to make up the correct length. Pure laziness, if someone can be bothered to remove all the broken parts of the push rod and insert ball bearings to make up to the correct length so it functions effectively, why not just fit a new push rod.

Satin polish with lacquer.