Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Greg65 on May 19, 2019, 01:49:51 PM
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With weekly commuting and shift work my engine rebuild has been slower than desired however I now have it in the frame. So before attaching the remaining bits I thought I ought to test the gears before I go any further so I attached the sprocket and chain. First up I have no neutral and can not select first gear while manually turning the engine over. The cam is in the indent on the gear shift drum. From this position I can not select first however can shift up.
So what am I missing or need to check? Advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
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Picture.
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Ordinarily you can remove the clutch to see what's going on, also you don't then have to turn the engine to rotate the gearbox in testing functionality, just spin the clutch to gearbox driveshaft to work through the gearshift.
May help you see if anything selector wise is odd.
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To run through the gears you notmaly have to §pin both shafts. 1st can be a bit of a bugger on new build at standstill but should go in if shaft rotated.
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Did you take the gearbox apart Greg?
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And do all your bits look assembled like this?
[attachimg=1]
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Gear box dismantled, hope to sneak out and remove clutch and compare shortly.
Thanks all, Greg
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Clutch removed and can’t see any obvious error. Here’s mine.
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Ok. Can you spin both shafts and get the gears in the correct position where you can see the brass connector through where the neutral switch inserts. This will give you a neutral reference point.
[attachimg=1]
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Have been reassigned to BBQ duties, will look tomorrow.
Thanks to all,
Greg
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Greg; you describe exactly the situation when I returned my restored engine to the frame. I rang the engine builder in a bit of a huff, he was nonplussed and ‘guaranteed’ his work; and suggested to simply proceed and that once oil was put in the engine / ‘box and circulated all would be fine.
And indeed it was.
Not saying that this is your issue, but if you can’t find an answer then all may still be ok.
Simon
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Thanks for your reassuring words Lobo however as this is my first rebuild I come with no guarantees. I hope my situation is the same as yours but I question myself as I have caught 3 minor mistakes during the assembly through checking and doubting. I have really enjoyed the process, especially the diy zinc plating, it’s just the final bit has some nasty consequences if there is an error. Just need some workshop time to go through the checks suggested.
Cheers,
Greg
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Workshop update.
With the neutral switch removed, brass connector visible, the bike is in a gear. Selecting down achieves nothing. Shifting up once, twice both result in the gears locking. Shifting up a third time produces a gear, up again it locks and up once more finds a gear. No neutral located.
So my guess is that I have got the left and right selector forks in their opposite positions. So engine out and as I understand from Haynes I can leave the head attached and just split the case, then rebuild correctly.
Any other conclusions or suggestions to try would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
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Mmmm, sounds like your assumption is correct Greg. Yes, you can do it just by splitting the bottom cases. Onwards and upwards, us novices are allowed to make mistakes 👍👍👍👍
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Julie.
Thanks for your kind words and encouragement, Oi stop sniggering at the back.
Cheers,
Greg
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I have come to the conclusion that those that snigger are the ones who have made the same or similar mistake in the past and they are sniggering at themselves 😀😁😁. At least you are having a go which is highly commendable. Also worth checking everything else is correct in the gearbox whilst you are there, just in case.
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Good point. Engine is out, accessories removed and bolts removed in the correct sequence. Fresh Honda Bond grips well! I am leaving that to tomorrow when I have restocked with some appropriate language and tackle the case splitting and gear box if I get in.
Thanks,
Greg
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If you didn't start out to do it you'd certainly never learn anything, so all good experience.
I always think the saying " you learn from your mistakes" is so true. As long as you proceed with care and check as you go along then these things can be picked up and sorted out.
One of the best elements on here is support and guidance honestly given. :)
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Ladies and gents. I can say for a certainty that I would never have contemplated a complete engine strip and rebuild without the information and support that is provided by this forum. I’m sure I will have many questions in the future but for now a great big thank you.
Greg
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Thanks Oddjob, will try tomorrow as case is firmly stuck at the moment.
Greg
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Don't forget when rebuilding the gearbox back into the crankcase ensure its put together while in neutral the pip on the selector barrel visible through the switch hole The outer selector forks have the flat sides facing the centre the centre one will be self explanatory
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McGinties 3rd law states that if something can be fitted the wrong way round somebody somewhere will doit.
This is why RR jets now have one end of the rotating element bigger than the other.
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Quick update.
Tried Oddjobs suggestion, still unsatisfactory, so proceeded with splitting the case.
Ok, let’s start with the simple stuff. The left and right selector are marked with a cast L or R and numbers? If so I had them correctly fitted which means I had fitted something else incorrectly. Alas I rushed in to quickly assuming I knew what the problem was and missed my original assembly error. I had a quick trial fit this afternoon cross referencing with Haynes and Honda schematics and all looks correct. Alas I am now away on my 5 day shift so a partial replacement of the lower case and test will have to wait.
Thanks to all,
Greg
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Don't forget for the dogs the left is on the the right and right is on the left as you are building the engine upside down.
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Got it, you should see we twisting and leaning back. I almost wrote L and R on appropriate hands. ;D
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Ok, after a bit of workshop time I have a question or two.
First up with the gears set in neautral, brass bump showing and all looking as per 42.8c in the Haynes manual. If I rotate the main shaft the counter shaft rotates as well, should there not be a disconnect? I have not stripped the gears just washed and examined. This brings me to the second question. The counter shaft bottom gear has excessive radial play, I assume bushes are available and it’s a press out press in job.
Thanks,
Greg
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Ignore the first question. Having sat and looked at the diagram I asked myself the question, could the first gear have been put back to front. Question answered, doh. :-[
Greg