Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Woodside on November 02, 2015, 07:26:14 PM
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Right
No luck on desperately seeking a horn...."now now nothing mucky here!"
So thought I'd pop the little fecker to bits ....nope?
Does any one know how the plastic cover is supposed to be removed it looks like it should spin off but it's on pretty firm....and I do t want to wreck it at first instant ....sounds lame but it would be nice to know as I'm sure it can be sorted somehow
Thanks in advance
Also to broaden the search were these fitted to any other model....surely they must have
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Snaps off but may need softening a bit with hot air. removed two last week
I was going to disect one myself sometime, by de-crimping the outside. Need to put a big Jubilee clamp or better round the outside (like crimp rings on metal Honda gauges)
Cheers .. ash
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Also to broaden the search were these fitted to any other model....surely they must have
P/N from Parts List is 38100-369-004 for UK and some other countries.
Looks like this part was also fitted to the CB250/360 G5 models (CB360/360T in US), also CL360 and CL360K1.
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Cheers
Just figured out the cl/cb360 models had them fitted and what looks like the same mounting bracket too.
There's a few in U.S. But all say not working for parts...
I shall warm it up tomorrow and try to pop cover off and see what's occurring ...you never know...
Unless hondaking steps in and flogs me his??? ;)
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Pretty sure they can be fixed, its the de-crimp and recrimp that's tricky.
Yes pretty sure CB250/350 G5 unit is the same.
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Remove the small adjusting screw and fill the thing up with WD then let it sit, shake it all about and remove as much WD as possible then refit the adjuster screw, connect to a battery and try adjusting--works about 50% of the time
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Remove the small adjusting screw and fill the thing up with WD then let it sit, shake it all about and remove as much WD as possible then refit the adjuster screw, connect to a battery and try adjusting--works about 50% of the time
Good advice Bryan ... The only reason I considered stripping one it re-plate it in zinc. Always taken stuff to bits anyway since I was a nipper so one day I will dissect one and photo it. suppose I could dunk one briefly in boiling water and see where the bubbles come from and attempt to seal, then plate intact but always risk of ingress of plating electrolyte that way.
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Cheers Bryan wd tonight before anything to terminal
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This is going to sound like a bizarre fix, but I boiled my defective unit in water for 30 mins (with the locknut slackened) - remove and stick in the airing cupboard for a couple of days and hey presto worked like new. Got the tip from a guy on the us forum I think. Try the WD method first, and if that fails boil the sh*t out of it as a last resort. :-)
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Wd in....I will let you know how it goes otherwise it's in the pot.?
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Soup of the day
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Haggis and Beeps???!!! ; ;D
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Ok guys
Success
1st off filled with wd40...... Nothing
2nd boiled for about an hour?
After boiling When connected to 12v I was getting a small fut....
So I figured something was freeing so filled with wd again and popped it on the bike and kept pressing button to energise....."fut" turned to "pip" then "peep"
So bugered about with fixing screw and adjuster and wahay. "Toot toot"
Something so small was very satisfying
I wouldn't have believed the boiling process had I not done it myself but what a tip cheers James
Perhaps may move to hints and tips under a better heading so it's easier to find
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Ha ha result. Yeah I know, it's one of those where you don't quite believe it could work but somehow it does. Good result. J
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Amazing. Wonder if ultrasonic bath would do similar?
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I would never have believed It (Meldrew Moment) but if it works it works.
I would be tempted to keep filling with WD to make sure no corrosion sets in.
Just as an aside you do know that WD40 is called that because it was the 40th Water Displacing formula on trial that worked
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:)
ACF50?
SDoc100?
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True, but WD was the first that worked, when in the trade we used the Castrol equivalent as it was less than half the price, also Duck Oil which penetrated as well but didn't seem to waterproof as well
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I worked on a contract in Canada in the 70's at a Machine Tool Company....they bought Machine Tools at Auction/ Factory Clearances in the UK and shipped them to Canada where they were in great demand - that's when the UK Manufacturing Industry was being sold off lock, stock and barrel.
Anyway....the Canadian Factory was flooded when the adjacent river broke its banks, and my job was to get the machinery up and running and ready for sale. The large number of motors and electrical controls which we stripped and dried out kept me busy for 4/5 months. Having stripped out the guts, we used to give the windings a real good dose of WD40, then stick in a 100W light bulb and cover everything in bacofoil. After 24 hours, most of the motors worked again.
I still swear by WD40 and practically every time I lift the bonnet of my car, the electrical components get a good squirt of it........I can't remember the last time my car(s) ever failed to start or an electrical fault let me down.
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I'll be putting the old (supposedly dead) OE horn in the Maplin mini U-Sonic later....
If it works I might spray ACF 50 in it afterwards to preserve it
- if the inside contains no rubber parts ... anyone know?
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Don't worry its still got loads of wd in it..In fact it's still dripping out
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If it works I might spray ACF 50 in it afterwards to preserve it
- if the inside contains no rubber parts ... anyone know?
I've yet not seen/experienced/heard of any issues with ACF-50 and rubber (and I use that "snake oil" a lot), but I do know that some folks use WD-40 to soften (old, hardened) cab-isolators and air-box connectors... go figure...
Had an LOL on the "soup of the day" remark ;D Nice trick though!
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Top tip chaps!
I used to scrape through my MOT test every year with the 'phut' sound my RDLC350 horns used to make, as the 2 horn units made their feeble squeak slightly out of sync, it was just enough to get a pass, wish I'd done this!
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Great idea, I had cleaned up and refinished the original horn on my F1 only to find that it didn't work, so I replaced it with an eBay item, I must dig it out and try this method on it, that is if I did not bin it.
Cheers
Dennis
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Go boil your horn! Unbelievable, a great tip. :)
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Found my old grubby original with its plastic cover and the special nut to mount it.
I made up a stainless bracket for the pea sized aftermarket horn I fitted for the inaugural MoT , so the mont hole will need opening up if I get the proper one working.
Not sure if u-sonic will help at this point as it's so greasy on the outside -
In days of old, petrol was the best cleaner !
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Ultrasonic worked a treat after the horn was degreased with jizer.
It took 3 goes before the water stayed clear.
After draining , I dried it out on a radiator for an hour, connected it up and adjusted to get a decent noise.
It just needs some paint now, then the plastic cover can go on. :D
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Thought I'd up-date this thread. Just spent a couple of days trying to sort the original horn on my 750F... Last resort was boiling. Wish I tried this first off. Works like a treat now. I dried it out for twenty minutes in a fan oven at a low temp and sprayed everything with WD40 before reinstallation... boom!
Who'd a thought!