Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: smoothoperator on October 10, 2020, 06:28:40 PM
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Bought as a runner but not a roller. Went to see the bike before bidding and thought it looked about right for a restore. Plenty to do but on the face of it not a basket case. Engine was demonstrated and started and ran well. Advertised cam chain rattle didn't seem that bad to my, untrained ear. Looked carefully at the crankcase, cam adjusting bolt is snapped off. Signs of oil leak on rhs, confirmed now it's home but it's small. Petrol tap wept whilst it was running. History is interesting as the previous owner had it since 1980 and stored it for much of that time. Oil on dipstick is very clean. Came with a Haynes manual which has clearly been well thumbed by oily fingers and includes hand written notes in a number of the sections. Small box of bits included 1 valve and a set of rocker arms. Receipts show some head work was done including 1 inlet and 1 exhaust valve, in 1981. In the same year it was also treated to a new OEM silencer at £45, which sounds very expensive given the date. Still has OEM silencer, well anyway it says HONDA on it I haven't looked too closely yet.
So anyhow plan is initially to get it rolling as well as running. I've fixed the leaking fuel tap and I'm Evaporust treating the tank which is in pretty good condition really. I've installed a Motobatt MB12U having scoured these pages even though I have a bottle of 1.28SG battery acid in my garage the last 20 years and I still don't get to use it.
Front brake is the current job. Master cylinder is not original I think because there is a manky old spare one in the bits box. The one on the bike is not delivering fluid to the brake caliper. I'm currently working on the spare to see if I can get the piston out of it. It also has a broken mirror stem in it, which I see as potential good practise for removing future horrors. Perhaps someone can tell me if it is the original?
Looking ahead, can anyone recommend me an impact driver? Open to hit with hammer or electric, anything that works really. I have bought a Vessel JIS impact screwdriver No2 but I'm not convinced it's right for some of the bigger screws that are a bit gnarly.
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Hi,
1st up keen to learn whether your CB400F2 is GVHxxS... coz I should have never sold it 🙁.
Secondly, whilst not quite the impact driver you were perhaps considering, if you can spare the £ I’d go an 18v rattle gun - one of those tools you never knew you needed. Will do everything single handed from worn x-heads to wheel nuts...
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Enjoy your project.
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Looks like a good start to work with.
For "Looking ahead, can anyone recommend me an impact driver? Open to hit with hammer or electric, anything that works really. I have bought a Vessel JIS impact screwdriver No2 but I'm not convinced it's right for some of the bigger screws that are a bit gnarly."
I use a drill screwdriver for the cross headed screws as it's able to turn the clutch down and persistently rattle the screws without putting too much torque through them. So in effect it agitates them rather that overloading. If face is noticeably chewed, then "refine" it with a ball pien hammer first to reform the cross, then tap the bit into the head and it'll get good drive usually.
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Thanks for the replies. Not your old one I'm afraid Lobo, this one is VNA---S. Just ordered some DOT 4+ brake fluid, as this also suits my car which is in need of a top up, hey that's cheaper than replacing the pads and watching the fluid magically rise as I push the pistons back. Ordered circlip pliers for the deeply buried circlip in the Master cylinder. Also been busy setting a google image album to which there should be a functional link below. Only one way to find out...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/atHTWsQE4tgzLgcS8
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The link works👍. I was following that bike on eBay. A very good basis to start from. You may need to grind the ends of the circlip pliars as the circlip is really buried deep in the master cylinder. It will also be full of crud making it difficult to get a grip with the pliars. Give it a good clean before you start and use a pick to remove the crud before going in with the pliars, character building stuff!
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I developed a tecnique for getting those out which involved a gas torch and a vice.
Rip out rge wire clip and top hat rubber then with master in vice point the torch flame down the hole towards circlip till alloy is warm, keep torch moving so even heating.
This will normally dispose of the crusty corrosion, especially if wd is sprayed down there whilst hot BUT dont do this inside the house as the smoke and smell is obnoxious AND it may just start a minor conflagration.
Get the circlip to spin in the groove before attempting to remove.
Stripped 10 masters in 30 minutes doing it this way
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Thanks for the encouragement about the bike choice. Just ordered some circlip pliers, funny to think I might be taking my angle grinder to them when they arrive! Due to this hiatus I have at least been regularly squirting plus gas then alternating with evaporust and I can now see the circlip holes. The cylinder moves more freely now and with the Master back on the bars the lever travels all the way back. The cylinder returns on the spring. Heating whilst in a vice will have to wait whilst I build a bench and stick a vice on it. First time project remember. The spare, I think original master is in more of a bad way so I have it soaking in plus gas and set to one side for the time being. Thanks for your help.
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Managed to get the Master cylinder apart, internals looked good so gave it all a good clean and put it back together. Refitted and filled with fluid which went through with some pumps on the brake lever however no fluid is making its way to the caliper. Pressure was building up on the brake lever and the flow of bubbles turned into a flow of liquid from the hole nearest the instruments. The hole in the master cylinder that is. So next step is to remove the unit that holds the brake pressure switch. This is proving to be a bit of a pig so I've given it a rest for a while. Also I could do with a socket extension to get at the upper banjo. I need to check the hoses are clear but I'd be surprised to find them blocked.
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Have you had the caliper apart? If not it might be worth it but make sure you soak the bleed nipple before attempting to remove it. You may also have to apply some heat as well, they are very, very easy to snap. If the nipple is stiff turn it slightly the other way first (to tighten it), this normally allows any rust around the thread to break free prior to undoing it normally. The bleed nipple needs to be opened and closed again a good few times when you fill the system with fluid otherwise you will get an air lock. The brake light switch shouldn't give you any problems, I've never seen one leak at the thread and from memory I think the thread has a slight taper to ensure it seals (others with more knowledge may correct me here!). Always use new copper washers as well (or anneal and clean the old ones). A tip I was given some time ago if a system is proving hard to bleed is to pull the brake lever back to the bars and place a zip tie over it and the handlebar and leave it overnight. This forces air up into the master cylinder, it works!
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Secondly, whilst not quite the impact driver you were perhaps considering, if you can spare the £ I’d go an 18v rattle gun - one of those tools you never knew you needed. Will do everything single handed from worn x-heads to wheel nuts...
Why do you call it a rattle gun it looks like a cordless impact driver to me unless Bosch have a different mechanism?
Just realised it's probably "Pitjantjatjara" for Impact Monster.
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Not done much since last post as I have been fitting a worktop in the utility room so than I can have the old worktop for a bench I'm building in the garage. The caliper bleed nipple is out. In fact this is where I started, planning to get the piston moving to pop it out so I could check it, thinking it might be seized. I have got the pressure switch housing off and all the brake tubes. So the next job will be to check and clean them, reassemble and have another go. However I plan to see if I can get fluid simply to come through the brake line before it's screwed into the caliper because as yet I have not had even a dribble come through the line. Something along those lines anyway.
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Did you fit a M/C repair kit with new seals etc and were the seals fitted in the correct order (don't go on how it was dismantled, someone may have been in there before you and reassembled it incorrectly). What did the piston bore look like, you need to check it with a magnifying glass to really gauge it's condition. I doubt if the hoses are blocked, it sounds like something is amiss in the M/C and fluid is unable to get down to the hoses. Maybe take one hose off at a time working backwards from the caliper and see how far any fluid is traveling.
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Hmm, never thought about it Mac... tho’ this stolen from Wikipedia..
“ An impact wrench (also known as an impactor, impact gun, air wrench, air gun, rattle gun, torque gun, windy gun) is a socket wrench power tool designed to deliver high torque output with minimal exertion by the user, by storing energy in a rotating mass, then delivering it suddenly to the output shaft. It was invented by Robert H. Pott of Evansville, Indiana.”
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When master cylinders are worked on they frequently need "bleeding" by using a finger over the outlet hole, wear a nitrile glove as brake fluid is nasty.
Then with finger over hole pull in and hold lever, remove finger and replace, release lever and repeat until you feel your finger being pushed off the end by pressure.
It helps if you have the banjo bolt, washers and pipe ready to fit as soon as you have pressure
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Hmm, never thought about it Mac... tho’ this stolen from Wikipedia..
“ An impact wrench (also known as an impactor, impact gun, air wrench, air gun, rattle gun, torque gun, windy gun) is a socket wrench power tool designed to deliver high torque output with minimal exertion by the user, by storing energy in a rotating mass, then delivering it suddenly to the output shaft. It was invented by Robert H. Pott of Evansville, Indiana.”
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In that case we agree a rattle gun is a great tool - it removed all my clutch casing screws easily. Mine has two torque settings for tightening but it defaults to maximum when undoing anything. I only use the tightening mode for wheel nuts - always using a torque stick - they are a clever invention for impact drivers.
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Personally i wouldnt use a "rattle gun" on hillips screws only on nuts and bolts plus the odd spinning allen screw in bottom of fork leg.
I do have a 3/8 drive air impact gun from when i was in the trade but havent used it for years as i dont have a compressor
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Personally i wouldnt use a "rattle gun" on hillips screws only on nuts and bolts plus the odd spinning allen screw in bottom of fork leg.
I do have a 3/8 drive air impact gun from when i was in the trade but havent used it for years as i dont have a compressor
The impact driver I use is a cordless electric one as is my impact screwdriver. Surprisingly the impact screwdriver is kinder on a Philips headed woodscrew than doing it by hand. Cordless hand tools have really improved in the last decade. That said I would always tighten into alloy & steel by hand.
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I find the same too; ie far less damage done to cross-heads, perhaps because you are able to apply a more effective ‘push’ force into the head.
Last week I got 8 x 50yo Phillips fastenings out of the Kombi door hinges. A lot of nail biting work, the beauty of the cordless tool being it’s easy of use, working forward / rev and so on, lots of penetrating oil etc. I sincerely doubt any other tool would have been as effective.
That said, and one for the smart folk; given you can undo fastenings effortlessly with the wrist (rattle gun) (& wheel nuts would be the prime example)- does this imply less torque is being applied? And if so... how does that work, is it simply the jarring motion mixed with torque? And if ultimately less torque, defacto less damage to the fastening?
And agreed; tightening up small fastenings with the tool has gotta be a no-no.
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That is why they make a 3/8" Impact tool (mine is a Ryobi) and its a nice match for my 1/2" drive 18v Impact wrench.
I believe both are a Pre-set max torque. 150 Ft lbs for the 3/8" and 300 Ft lbs for the 1/2". I never use them to "torque" up bolts but will spin them up close and then final check with a torque wrench.
The 3/" one with a set of JIS bits is the pefect tool for pulling apart old Japanese motorcycles :)
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Hi,
Likewise I love the impact wrench for stubborn fixings.
Have an air one but not too convenient when working in the shed away from the garage so splashed out on an 18v DeWalt one and it's a beast.
Love using it but definitely not for smaller fixings or screws - found a 10v cordless impact driver pretty good for these and much less violent.
Important issue with the wrench is taking care and wearing gloves, glasses etc. as it will happily rip things loose and spin them or distribute loose bits.
Cheers,
Andy
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Again short on time today but a quick update. Found that the lower brake pipe was indeed blocked. Soaked in hot water and pushed a guitar string through and hey presto it's cleared. It's drying out on the radiator now. Will have time tomorrow to move forward with this. Meanwhile I am learning lot's about impact drivers, great stuff.
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I love impact drivers brilliant tools in the right hands.
When the chippys at work get them out I cringe because they mash the heads or sheer them off screws and I have no chance of removing them after.
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Front brake progress. Found that the upper brake line was also blocked, gave it the same treatment as the lower one to clear it out. Struggled to get fluid pumping down the lines and ended up using a technique from this site posted in 2009, using a syringe to pump fluid up which worked a treat. The brake worked but wasn't releasing its grip on the disc. Even got the brake light working. I know I shouldn't get so excited about that but it's early days. Next I squeezed on the brake lever and the brake pad started to move out and quickly the piston came out. The piston is badly corroded so I have ordered a new one with the seal.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/F2kYg3LwR8LoH5tU7
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Started cleaning the caliper and noticed some marks, sort of rivulets, under the paint and wondered if they were an issue, on removing the paint I don't think they are but have included an image if anyone has an opinion. Also included an image of the inside of the caliper and wondered if I should try to remove the hollow dowel to aid cleaning or is it best left in place. I gave it a bit of a tug with long nose pliers but it didn't want to yield. I think that its probably best left in place. New piston and seal arrived rapidly so is ready to fit once I have cleaned the caliper. Any recommendations on paint/prep welcome. Link to photos in previous post. Pretty much ready for a test ride once the front brake is sorted.
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By those marks you probably mean the name of the manufacturer, TOKICO?
Leave the "dowel" where it is, I never removed one in over 40 years, it's only there to keep the pad from rotating.
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I often use the finger over the bleed nipple trick. On the road so it doesn't mess up my drive.
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Front brake still drawing air in from somewhere so currently on hold waiting for new washers and bleed nipple. I've also ordered a brake master cylinder service kit which will either go into the MC on the bike or the spare MC which I have now managed to take apart.
Petrol tank is currently enjoying a bath in 5 litres of Evaporust.
So spending some time looking around the bike and found that the clutch casing is broken, below the kick start. I've put in 3 images showing close up then moving out. It's a shame because it's the shiniest bit on the bike!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LAxJuTkNkxzUVFPDA
Had a quick look for a replacement but the one I have found listed as CB 400 f is different. Am I getting the name right, clutch casing, clutch housing. Is a CB 400 f different to a CB 400 F super sport? Below a link to the one that is clearly different.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB350-4-CB350-Four-4-1972-1974-CB400-F-1975-77-Engine-Clutch-Cover-Casing/311983096875?hash=item48a3a4442b:g:cmsAAOSwnw9aBnky
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That one is for a CB350/4 which is a different cover to which is fitted to the 400/4.Basically, the listing is wrong.
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Thanks. I'll keep looking!
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Try 400 four bits. If you can't see what you are looking for, email Steve and ask, he is a very helpful chap.
https://www.400fourbits.co.uk/
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Yeehaw I've finally got the front brake working. I fitted a service kit to the spare, I think original, master cylinder. Now I have to tap in a new thread as I have removed the broken mirror stem by drilling most of it out. Could someone tell me what tap I need? Have sourced a clutch casing from 400 four bits. I'm concerned about what the thread might be like in the crankcase but that's for another time. Whilst idly moving the right footrest up and down as it is removed, it was clicking up and down nicely with a click in and out of the up position when suddenly it went floppy, I didn't see anything ping off anywhere but that's not to say anything didn't. Does anyone have a photo of one or a link to a drawing. Meanwhile, following in Macabthieles wake, I am in great admiration of the paint job on his, intact clutch cover. I must ask him how he did that super looking paint job.
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Got the front brake working yesterday but I thought it still felt a little spongy. So I used the cable tie trick on the handlebar that I found on this forum, well 24 hours later it is much improved. There is a tiny amount of fluid around the bleed nipple and I have read again on this forum that it needs to be really tight. I have fitted a new nipple but I'm loathe to swing on it much more as I have given it a fair old tweak already. I'll keep an eye on it to see how it goes.
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Wrap PTFE tape around the bleed nipple, it's cures the leak and prevents it seizing.
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I did that with the old nipple, when I was fault finding. I thought I'd try without as it is a new nipple, however I'll have a look at doing that if it keeps weeping.
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I agree PTFE tape is very good even on new bleed nipples - more so when caliper bodies are alloy rather than steel.
With steel you can tighten them enough that the taper on the nipple fully beds in - with aluminium you can't risk a thread strip much better to squash some plastic based replaceable tape.
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Finished treating the tank with Evaporust and it has done a great job of removing the rust. The before and after pictures, as ever, don't do it justice. I've put a mix of petrol and oil in for now and given it a slosh around. Once the clutch cover arrives all being well swap for the broken one and then a short test ride before the disassembly stage. Now it's fingers crossed that there isn't a nasty surprise behind the clutch cover.
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Try 400 four bits. If you can't see what you are looking for, email Steve and ask, he is a very helpful chap.
https://www.400fourbits.co.uk/
I clicked on the link - there are no prices listed how does that work?
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Finished treating the tank with Evaporust and it has done a great job of removing the rust. The before and after pictures, as ever, don't do it justice. I've put a mix of petrol and oil in for now and given it a slosh around.
Did you fill the tank as per instructions or compromise given that this would cost more £100.oo to do?
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Try 400 four bits. If you can't see what you are looking for, email Steve and ask, he is a very helpful chap.
https://www.400fourbits.co.uk/
I clicked on the link - there are no prices listed how does that work?
Just email Steve cooper there with the codes for the parts you want and ask for a quote, he answers very soon. cooperman.12345@ntlworld.com
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My plan A involved using a £3 3V aquarium pump with a stream of Evaporust directed over the upper part of the tank, the bit that rises up over the frame and is the hardest part to cover with the treatment. Whichever way you position the 14L tank it's impossible to cover with 5L of liquid. Very Heath Robinson and eventually I gave up, choosing instead to put 20kg of washed, dried pea gravel in to occupy the space. Then the 5L of liquid sat above the ridge with the tank tilted slightly forward. I didn't slosh the gravel around I just used it to occupy volume. I emptied the tank after 3 days then washed out with water, dried using my bike/dog dryer. Then I put in a mix of petrol and oil for temporary protection as I intend to use the tank soon for a road test. When I take the tank off prior to restoration I'll probably protect it with ACF50 as this stuff really sticks.
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Removed the damaged clutch cover ready to replace it with one from 400/4 bits. Sods law that the case that came off left one dowel in the crank case whereas the replacement has a dowel in that position, with the opposite for the other dowel. Are there any tips for pulling these out without causing damage to them?
Pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qy59n2eGqLVMLAtEA
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A bolt through the dowel so you can't squash it and then pull it with a pair of pliers. Heating it in advance can help too.
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You may find that you can twist it out with a 3 jaw drill chuck as it'll grab it equally.
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Combine those two and it'll be perfect :D
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Took the first dowel out using a drill chuck and bolt through it, it came out stupidly easy as it turns out. The chuck did squash the dowel a little so if I do that again, I'll wrap the screw in tape or perhaps find a close fitting drill bit. Anyhow, suitably confident that these dowels might not be in tight I removed the next one with pliers with little effort and no damage. Got the kick start oil seal out in semi reasonable condition as it is going to be used in the new case just for a short run before the engine strip down. The replacement case already had a seal in it where the clutch thrust bolt comes through. The ball bearings are very knackered so I've sourced a replacement from Julie.
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Refitted the clutch thrust bearing with a replacement cage and shiny ball bearings. I've left one screw out where the case was broken as the thread is damaged in the case. Measured the depth at 16mm so I don't think there is any broken screw in there, however I'd rather look at trying to fix the thread when the engine is apart. Even though I only plan a very short test ride I can't bring myself to pour the old oil back in so I've managed to find 5L of 10W 40 at £10 on amazon so I'll put that in hopefully tomorrow, swill the tank with some petrol then refit. Then I will have run out of excuses to go for a ride.
Should I expect any difficulty getting fuel through to carbs as the fuel pipe won't be full after having the tank removed for 3 weeks?
Next question, assuming it runs OK, should I check compressions? I feel that It would make sense and would be a no brainer if I had a compression tester. Can anyone recommend one? There are some for under £20 on Amazon and a shedload on Ebay, many of which look identical with numerous brand names, often in the same red plastic box, mostly around £10.
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Why would you want to know the compression, assuming it runs OK.
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This type is generally reliable and you're paying for the gauge not all the plastic and parts in the "kits"
https://www.mandp.co.uk/products/compression-tester-push-in-type-594478
As they run pretty well on varying levels of psi efficiency, I'd want to know before stripping it where they're at as reference. If nothing else it contributes to a working list, and when added to internal inspection, helps you in making decisions as to level of work desirable when you're in there.
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Why would you want to know the compression, assuming it runs OK.
I can sometimes be a bit anally retentive.
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I would rock the bike gently from side to side as you switch on the fuel - this might avoid unnecessary flooding due to the float needles being slightly stuck in the down position if the floats are dropped down from the normal position.
I was on the verge of taking my carbs off when they flooded on my first try to run the engine - did the side rocking and all was good - they have not flooded since - its easy to jump to conclusions about the cause of flooding especially if you have re-set float levels or done a carb strip down.
I checked my cold compressions after 12 years of not running - the good thing was they were all pretty much the same a not very inspiring 80 psi with the inlets plugged up!
After unplugging the inlets I tried to check the compressions again first two read 110 psi - then the gauge broke - it was a 50 year old Crypton Unit with a cracked housing and the rubber tapered end fell to bits! I plan to check them again with a cheap unit I bought on e-bay for £10.99 - the kit is better than I expected for the price.
My late fathers doctrine was don't check compressions if you do not have a problem as you will always be disappointed in the result!
True compression test is when the engine is up to running temperature of course.
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Red Letter Day. Engine started after just 3 attempts. Soon warms up and choke reduced then off after a very short time. So far so good. After running for a couple of minutes revs' started to rise up to 3000. Switch off, try again, same issue. Start think that the helmet laying on the floor ready is hopelessly optimistic. I did have the bike running a month ago and hadn't touched anything that would directly affect things. Head scratch and start thinking well here's the first sign that I'm going to have to get serious with the carb's and then thought let's try the idle screw and holy moly a less than a quarter turn and the tick over settled down fine. Helmet on let's go. Tried the brakes and wow the back one locks the wheel easily on our recently resurfaced street. Just as well because the front brake is, struggling for the right words, ineffective, hopeless, only for the brave etc. Anyway brakes tested and onto the main road with no dramas, rode through all the gears up and down, kept the rev's below 5000. Front end somewhat bouncy but overall one of those smile on your face moments. Checked the voltage on my return and it was giving 14.5v at about 1500 - 2000 rpm. Relax for a bit and chew on what to do next. Remember to turn petrol tap off. Have been reading engine full of fuel and seized up thread. I'll just go and check that tap is still off.
Back from the road test, oil catcher at the ready.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJrerK3GnwM7fq7U7
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Good to hear a good outcome. I find that all the 750's (no experience of 400 recently) feel a 'bit bouncy' and that front disc is rubbish (better but still not great with twin disc'ed CR750 Rep).
I think that they are all the same when compared to modern bikes.
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Great work, nice that it and you got a little ride out. I find the 400/4 quite tight and positive at the front end.
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Sounds good progress, and always nice when you get them running for a test ride.
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I agree with Nurse Julie, if the front feels bouncy it needs some more attention!
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Red Letter Day. Engine started after just 3 attempts. Soon warms up and choke reduced then off after a very short time. So far so good. After running for a couple of minutes revs' started to rise up to 3000. Switch off, try again, same issue. Start think that the helmet laying on the floor ready is hopelessly optimistic. I did have the bike running a month ago and hadn't touched anything that would directly affect things. Head scratch and start thinking well here's the first sign that I'm going to have to get serious with the carb's and then thought let's try the idle screw and holy moly a less than a quarter turn and the tick over settled down fine. Helmet on let's go. Tried the brakes and wow the back one locks the wheel easily on our recently resurfaced street. Just as well because the front brake is, struggling for the right words, ineffective, hopeless, only for the brave etc. Anyway brakes tested and onto the main road with no dramas, rode through all the gears up and down, kept the rev's below 5000. Front end somewhat bouncy but overall one of those smile on your face moments. Checked the voltage on my return and it was giving 14.5v at about 1500 - 2000 rpm. Relax for a bit and chew on what to do next. Remember to turn petrol tap off. Have been reading engine full of fuel and seized up thread. I'll just go and check that tap is still off.
Back from the road test, oil catcher at the ready.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJrerK3GnwM7fq7U7
Pleased for you I've only reached the engine running stage so far.
Out of interest have you fitted a small clear plastic inline fuel filter?
I fitted a small one with a 90 deg outlet - it serves two purposes
1) To filter the fuel to protect my carb jets etc.
2) To act as a visible window for fuel flow especially when the tap is in the off position.
So far it seems to work well you can see the fuel level in the plastic bowl start to partially fill up when you turn on the tap. When switching off the engine I turn off the fuel for about 5 seconds before I switch off, this drops the level slightly so I can see any seepage past the fuel tap. It least that my hope!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50572493322_0a8a3786b4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k3Vfm3)fuel filter top right (https://flic.kr/p/2k3Vfm3) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190821526@N02/), on Flickr
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Thanks Ted. I haven't installed an inline filter. I did fit a new filter in the tank as it was part of the service kit from DS as the tap was leaking. I think you did the same? So far the tap is leak free and it turns fine. I did fit the 2 O rings as recommended by DS. So the list of what I have done so far is:
Fix leaking fuel tap
Evaporust treat the tank
Fit a new battery
Get the front brake "working", more to do there
Replace the broken clutch case with a second hand one
Install replacement clutch actuator thrust bearings
Get the indicators working, they have since stopped so more to there also!
Go for a test ride
I'd like to go for another test ride to get more of a feel for how the the bike is running before starting to take it to bits, so priorities now are, improve front brake, new pads and adjust the gap between the floating pad and the disc, something I haven't got my head around yet. Get the indicators working again. Fit a mirror on the rhs will means tapping out the master cylinder mirror stem hole. If I fudge that up then I'll probably buy the DS Master Cylinder which is cheap. I'm pretty sure both mirrors are original however the right hand one is missing most of it's thread, it was in the MC. It's a shame as the left hand one is in amazing condition for something so old.
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I'm also toying with the idea of a ride before strip down unfortunately I have no headlamp or mudguards fitted......
mmmmmm
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Do it. Avoid nightfall and mud. Have a mirror though as you'll need to look out for the rozzers.
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Do it. Avoid nightfall and mud. Have a mirror though as you'll need to look out for the rozzers.
Ah and forgot completely to mention no front brake fitted - all still in boxes with caliper dismantled test ride idea now not an option!
I carried out a COLD compression test this evening (with new gauge) all four were 110 psi.
The manual says 170 psi when HOT - can't see them rising by 60 psi though.
I guess tomorrow I will have to get it up to temperature and risk another burn mark in the process just to be sure.
After 12 years of not being run the valves will need regrinding at the very very least.
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Indicators working again, just needed a battery charge. Shiny bits; Sorry this is going to be a bit long winded. Because I had to replace the clutch casing, and the only one available has been chromed, and most of the chrome has peeled off, this has got me thinking about a few points regarding shiny bits. Also how much I don't know. I had thought that my original clutch case was chromed but now I believe it is actually polished aluminium. So then must be the cover on the other side of the bike which hides the starter motor and sprocket. Whereas the points cover is chrome plated steel? Same for the chain guard? This came to light when I asked for a quote to chrome my new clutch case, as it's obvious I can't shift all of the chrome off it. The chromer said he wouldn't chrome aluminium, but he gave me a quote to strip the chrome, £30, and also if needed, polishing for another £30. This seems the right way to go as mentioned above it would then match the left hand cover which, I believe is polished. So now I'm thinking, I have no idea what was standard for these bikes. Was it polished aluminium and chromed steel or some other combination. If you've managed to make sense of all this well done and thanks for reading. Any insights would be appreciated. Link to my existing shiny bits below. First image is the original clutch cover and second is the chromed replacement.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FQN5o5L5N3o9nGWa9
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The main covers on the sides were bare alloy lacquered. Your 1st pic is just a polished cover, the 2nd pic is original with the lacquer knackered. Your points cover, chrome is correct, your other cover on the other side is correct, it's sort of a satin polished finish.
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Removed the headlamp reflector and glass as the reflector is corroded and needs to be replaced. Chrome rim is in good condition. Cracked the lens getting it out, the reverse process looks easier so I'll proceed with caution when I get the replacement and hope for the best. There was a thick layer of putty between the lens and the rim, is this typical?
Kill switch isn't working which is how I ended up in the headlamp, there is a bit of insulation tape damage so I'll look further into this tomorrow. Had a look at the handlebar end but taking that apart looks like a very fiddly job that I don't plan to do until I've looked more closely at the wire routing. Wires are going to have to come out of the headlamp anyway but no need to take handlebar unit apart if I don't have to.
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If the lenz is seperate I have one for the cost of postage I plan to bin it as I have a complete unit I intend to fit. Just PM me if you are interested - the reflector is less than perfect but probably usable.
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Kind offer Ted but the lens and reflector are a single item. Also there is damage behind the bulb and the replacement I've seen on DS has a different bulb fitting which bypasses the broken part, as far as I can tell.
Headlamp Pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJQ9FfSkVnHxFxPd7
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Ok that probably explains the putty !
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I've added 2 more images in the link previously of the headlamp rim which had one dent in it. I've managed to planish it out to a pretty good standard, well chuffed. Sorry to blow my own trumpet.
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I've added 2 more images in the link previously of the headlamp rim which had one dent in it. I've managed to planish it out to a pretty good standard, well chuffed. Sorry to blow my own trumpet.
Nice bit of planishing there - my rim was far too damaged and rusted to repair - hence why I have gone for a new headlamp with different mountings courtesy of allankelly1 who I have shamelessly plagiarised from (with his help).
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Waiting for a few bits before I can go much further with the headlamp and left and right handle bar switches. Meanwhile I have taken off the pilot light case cover which has 1 broken lug whilst the other 2 are just cracked. I've trawled this site and found that KENT400 has repaired one of these using mouldable plastic and 2 part epoxy. As mine is in generally good condition I'll have a look at having a go at that. Also Ted has bought one recently and been underwhelmed by the quality and I also read trigger ran out of these in 2015!
Link to image of Pilot light cover
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5zqWy458wvbJVYBV8
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Found a post by Ashimoto, anatomy of a 400/4 horn which gave me the means to have a look at mine. Looking out for a new l/h switch at the moment as mine is lacking a horn button. So a natural step to have a look at the horn on the bike. Removed it and put 12V on it and dead as a Dodo. Measured resistance across the terminals and it was open circuit. Removed the crimped front part away from the main body to find everything inside looked like new, apart from the contacts which were heavily oxidised. I sanded them in situ as I thought lifting the upper bar up and across might damage it. Checked across terminals and started to show some resistance, can't remember the reading, bit more sanding and then test. Just holding the front cover on and applying 12V I now have amazing Mallard impression device. Bit more tweaking and now its starting to sound like a horn. Externally it's very manky however at least now I know it's worth resurrecting and it's one more part of the bike that can stay original. Felt a bit like a Frankenstein experience. To quote Ashimoto, "More power Igor".
Pics of Horn
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vkiiYBA7onCjZ7pe9
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Continuing the electrical theme, I thought I should add an image of the fuse box, sigh.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1kTapbnv5tG81fN7
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Continuing the electrical theme, I thought I should add an image of the fuse box, sigh.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1kTapbnv5tG81fN7
🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 I just love people ingenuity when it comes to fuse boxes (or is it bodge 🤔). I'm sure it got the rider home though and that's all that matters.
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Found a post by Ashimoto, anatomy of a 400/4 horn which gave me the means to have a look at mine. Looking out for a new l/h switch at the moment as mine is lacking a horn button. So a natural step to have a look at the horn on the bike. Removed it and put 12V on it and dead as a Dodo. Measured resistance across the terminals and it was open circuit. Removed the crimped front part away from the main body to find everything inside looked like new, apart from the contacts which were heavily oxidised. I sanded them in situ as I thought lifting the upper bar up and across might damage it. Checked across terminals and started to show some resistance, can't remember the reading, bit more sanding and then test. Just holding the front cover on and applying 12V I now have amazing Mallard impression device. Bit more tweaking and now its starting to sound like a horn. Externally it's very manky however at least now I know it's worth resurrecting and it's one more part of the bike that can stay original. Felt a bit like a Frankenstein experience. To quote Ashimoto, "More power Igor".
Mine came without a horn or any mounting bracket if there is one. That will be one of the last things I sort out.
Pics of Horn
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vkiiYBA7onCjZ7pe9
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Had the handlebar switches off, fixed the kill switch issue as far as I can tell at the moment. Replaced the left hand switch with a new reproduction unit due to the missing horn switch. Put the handlebars back on. Refurbished the horn. I need to replace the short green wire from the loom to the horn as it was open circuit at the spade end. This horn really doesn't want to work. On the hunt now for spade connectors and some 3 and 4 way connectors to complete the wiring up of the headlight, some of the connectors in the headlamp bowl are in poor condition. It was tempting to continue stripping the bike down but I have resisted. I'm learning a lot by putting things back together and I'm sure this will help later down the line. I've also been picking up ideas on engine rebuilds and in particular found a very entertaining Australian guy on Youtube who has detailed rebuilding a 350/4 which clearly shows just how much they have in common with the 400.
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Kojajcat.co.uk for 3 way, never found 4 way yet
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Thanks Brian that's a really useful link. Searching for connectors is a real pain. I miss Maplin's, my wife doesn't I was always dragging her in there.
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Having reconnected all of the handlebar switch wiring I connected the battery and everything is now working, including the kill switch and horn. Gave the bike a short engine run and all good. Still issues with carbs 2 and 3 with a small dribble from the bleed screws. No leaks from the overflow pipes today. Having procrastinated over buying a compression tester I bit the bullet today only to find it reduced by £5 so that was a result. It is one recommended to me by a member, it's from M&P. As I'm now waiting for the compression tester my next job will be to remove the carbs and have a look and see if I can fix the leaking bleed screws.
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Tested the compression's cold and have 100, 90, 105, 110. Carbs off and O ring set ordered. 1 bleed screw had no O ring, 1 was split and the other 2 OK but hardened. Main jet O rings also in poor condition. Float bowls were reasonably clean but the O rings very flat and there are remnants of some sort of red sealant. I'm cleaning the brass ware and lower bodies up the old fashioned way with carb cleaner and elbow grease, I'm not splitting the carbs at this point. Float heights are currently 21.4, 21.0, 23.6, 20.0. Haynes manual says 22 but I'm sure I've read 21 in this forum so I'll double check on reassembly. Main jets have the number 72 on them, Haynes says 75, not that I'm going to change them as I intend keeping all the brass ware provided it looks OK. Still have some more brass ware to take out.
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21mm Steve for the 400/4 carb floats. (I've just edited that, I initially typed 22mm in error, now I've put me glasses on and I can see what I'm typing, I've changed it to 21mm 😁😁😁😁)
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Hey that was quick thank you!
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Tested the compression's cold and have 100, 90, 105, 110. C
What are your thoughts on the compression tests, they are close to what mine are?
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I see them as more of a reference really. I'll be doing them again hot once I've got the carbs back on. I suppose I was pleased to see that they were reasonably close to each other. I struggled a bit with No 2 to get the gauge on so I'll have another go at that one.
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I have cleaned the carb float bowls and jets and plan to re install carbs tomorrow. The general condition wasn't too bad but the O rings were shot. The only oddity was that No 4 carb float valve has some slots in it. I've pictured it next to one of the other float valves for comparison.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aZyLgT13WavTSvDT9
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I've never seen one with those slots in 🤔🤔🤔🤔
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Maybe it has been stuck once and been slotted to turn/wriggle it out? So long as the mating surface below hasn't been damaged it should be allright. ;)
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Carbs back on today and she started up fine with no leaks from them. Engine ran well with all 4 exhaust headers getting hot at a similar rate. Quite a lot of smoke from the exhaust. Just a few little jobs to do before she is ready for another test ride and to check compression's when hot. Then I can get stuck in taking her to bits!
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Great work. I find that carbs always appreciate a new set of O rings 😁😁😁
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Finally a dry day and an opportunity for a test ride. No2 header staying cold. Traced to a faulty spark plug, swapped for a new one and good to go. Just a short ride up to 50 mph and kept revs below 5000. Engine pulled fine. Nothing fell off including me. Front brake improved since I fitted new pads. Checked compression's when hot only to find them slightly lower than when tested cold, they were all around the 90 mark. Previously I refitted the carbs with the air box on and managed to join the club of those that have blackened a finger end so I now have the trophy. I've started the strip down now this marks the real start of the project. I plan to strip the top end with the engine in the frame. 2 tappet covers are stuck so I've sprayed them with plus gas to see if they will play ball tomorrow. 4 of the nuts on the header are the square cheapo coach bolt type however they came off easy enough with a 12 mm ring spanner.
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If it runs fine and ticks over OK i would suspect the gauge
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I've taken off the rocker cover so first look inside the engine. Just 3 pics so far I'll add some more to the album later. Feel free to comment!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bHPeUnzFJK92wHHp7
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I wonder what has caused that damage on the end of the cam 🤔 It almost looks like the mice have had a nibble 😬
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I was a bit apprehensive of how it might go getting the head bolts undone however in the end I got lucky and it wasn't an issue. One of the nuts in the spark plug recess was actually not tightened. Once I had all the nuts off I could see that the rear stud on number 1 has been replaced, I have taken a photo of it. Taken the sump off and found it to have a radial crack near the drain plug, so a replacement sump is needed. I've taken some pics of the top end with the cam out to show the journals, I think they look OK. Next job is to remove the head, so any tips on that would be welcomed. By the way the end of the cam looks fine I think the mouse marks are a trick of the light.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bHPeUnzFJK92wHHp7
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Good progress mate I wish I could have gotten further with my strip down before my operation intervened.
I've been advised not to even drive my car until around the 3rd January next year.
I will follow your strip down with interest until I can return to my project in March 2021 shame about the sump issue.
Did you manage to do a Hot compression test ? The head looks reasonable how do the piston tops look?
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You can always get the cracks in the sump welded.
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I need to give the sump a good clean before I can see how bad the crack is and whether to replace or weld. Meanwhile I have the barrels off so the internals are starting to reveal themselves. I've added some more images. I think the pistons are original, they are Honda, and a quick measurement of the bores with my £10 calipers gives a measurement of 50.8mm both top and bottom of all 4 bores. The rings on the pistons are moving freely although I've only had a quick look so far. The bores are in good condition on all 4. Now I need to get the garage organised before taking anything else apart as it's becoming difficult to find anywhere to place my feet!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bHPeUnzFJK92wHHp7
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Been a bit of blowby but a very light hone and new rings should cure that, plus a good clean of course
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Thanks for that Bryan it's very reassuring to have an expert opinion.
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I have to say the pistons look pretty good - what was the mileage out of interest ?
As Bryanj has said some blow by - looking at the cylinder head it's been a tad rich that might aggravate the blow by as excess fuel washes down the side or be a reflection of short journeys with choke use ?
Back in the 1960's when I was stripping down my Mini engine every 3 or four months I was always miffed to find the carbon deposits I had carefully removed each time spring back even with quality unleaded fuel.
I eventually started to blame the fuel so started using only one brand of petrol - it was "I.C.I." fuel it was a synthetic by-product from town gas coking plants & the chemical industry. It had a greater specific gravity than any other fuel due to a higher proportion of branched hydrocarbons it was said at the time.
When I moved to Bradford being a poor student I bought the cheapest 5 star that was available "NAFTA" I think it was Russian - after 3 months I had to do a decoke as the cylinder head was so badly gummed up!
Not thought about it before I wonder if the Hondas are okay with unleaded petrol ?
I hope mine is that good when I get it stripped down.
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Hondas were designed from the start for unleaded as thats what the yanks wanted and it was the biggest market
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I've cleaned the sump and removed the baffle plate which was a pig to unscrew. I have checked for leaks and it holds water so regardless of the crack I can't see that it would have leaked oil. Applying finger pressure on the area around the crack doesn't create any visible movement of the crack. Tapping with a spanner doesn't give any changes in tone around the sump side. One image shows the crack as seen from the outside of the sump. Another shows 2 very small cracks on the inside, next to the sump plug. The 3rd image shows the inevitable "present" I found in the sump once I removed the baffle plate. I'm tempted to refit this sump as is, would this be dumb?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8CbsUnvx6BwhmYKLA
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You won't know for sure if it leaks until it gets hot and contains hot oil.
Add the engine vibration as well and you'll soon know.
I'd get the outside crack welded or get another sump pan.
The spring looks like a cam chain tensioner rod spring.
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Oil will wich through the crack and cause a mess where water wont drip through
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Thanks for the advice guys I'll look for a replacement. No rush as I'm now taking the engine apart to find out what else might be knackered. Got the engine out today, front left lower engine mount is sheared, it was "glued" in. Feels like the work really starts here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bZUXdfnkSrRnsyKRA
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Thanks for the advice guys I'll look for a replacement. No rush as I'm now taking the engine apart to find out what else might be knackered. Got the engine out today, front left lower engine mounting bolt was sheared, it was "glued" in. The remaining bolt is I suspect going to be difficult to fish out. Feels like the work really starts here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bZUXdfnkSrRnsyKRA
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Thanks for the advice guys I'll look for a replacement. No rush as I'm now taking the engine apart to find out what else might be knackered. Got the engine out today, front left lower engine mounting bolt was sheared, it was "glued" in. The remaining bolt is I suspect going to be difficult to fish out. Feels like the work really starts here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bZUXdfnkSrRnsyKRA
That's bad luck to find an engine mounting bolt glued in - I am very lucky that mine are all OK. I have been told here not to mix up the left & right front bolts as they are different in length - putting one in on the wrong side can puncture the casing so beware
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There should be a captive type nut set into the engine casting on the lower front left and right. It will likely be siezed into the casting due to road salt corrosion. The bolt doesn't screw into the engine casting as such, it screws into the thin captive steel nut. If the bolt has snapped off you will have to drill the remainder out to free the captive nut. Be very careful when doing this as the engine oil gallery is the other side of the captive nut and the casting is thin. A lot of people including me in the 80’s refitted the bolt after removing aftermarket crash bars and not realising the bolt is longer than standard. The result, a punctured oil gallery and a scrap engine!
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Thanks Ted and Dave. I've been researching this and see it's a common problem. The bolt on the other side came out fine, I can't recall if the nut came out even though it was only yesterday. The offending bolt has sheared where the threads start. I was thinking of grinding out the nut with a dremel or drilling out the remaining bolt first. I think it might be tough going drilling this out however it's not like there are any threads to preserve as the nut will have to come out whatever. I'm worried that if I grind the nut out first then the remaining bolt will be difficult to drill as it might spin and it's not like you can get behind it to push it out. After a bit of a Christmas rest I'll give it a clean and re-assess. Also it might be easier to tackle once I've split the crank cases. I also think I might need to invest in some good drill bits. Maybe it will come out easy after a few whiskies.
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Drilled out the engine mounting bolt which was mostly something like body filler until well down to just above the nut. Drilling the actual bolt wasn't too bad as I used a new 11 mm HSS Cobalt bit. 10 mm bit wasn't long enough to give clearance between the drill chuck and the crankcase. I drilled away a good part of the nut also. Anyhow it was all going fine until the bolt was relieved when the end of the nut was reached. I could see cracks open up slowly in front of my eyes, almost in slow motion. Bummer. The end of the bolt was pressed up hard against the crankcase which must have been causing stress. The pictures tell it better than words. First image shows most of the bolt removed before any cracks. 3rd image shows the indentation in the crankcase made by the end of the bolt. Anyhow this leaves me needing replacement crankcases or possibly a welding job? I haven't split them yet as I'm waiting on a clutch nut tool at the moment. Can't wait to see what's inside!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sHrq2Xko7tHU2FuE7
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Oh poo ☹️☹️☹️
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Drilled out the engine mounting bolt which was mostly something like body filler until well down to just above the nut. Drilling the actual bolt wasn't too bad as I used a new 11 mm HSS Cobalt bit. 10 mm bit wasn't long enough to give clearance between the drill chuck and the crankcase. I drilled away a good part of the nut also. Anyhow it was all going fine until the bolt was relieved when the end of the nut was reached. I could see cracks open up slowly in front of my eyes, almost in slow motion. Bummer. The end of the bolt was pressed up hard against the crankcase which must have been causing stress. The pictures tell it better than words. First image shows most of the bolt removed before any cracks. 3rd image shows the indentation in the crankcase made by the end of the bolt. Anyhow this leaves me needing replacement crankcases or possibly a welding job? I haven't split them yet as I'm waiting on a clutch nut tool at the moment. Can't wait to see what's inside!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sHrq2Xko7tHU2FuE7
That's horrific - hope a good alloy welder can sort it - it looks doable.
Are you sure you made the cracks & they weren't done by the person who broke the bolt ?
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I think the crankcase was doomed from the point someone sheared the bolt, this must have happened when it bottomed out. I have managed to track down the previous owner and he has been kind enough to give me a pretty full history, certainly at some point the bike had crash bars fitted, then removed...I noticed the cracks appear whilst the dirt was still on the casing, so in the first image, the cracks weren't there. I should have taken another image to show how they looked before I cleaned off the dirt to show how they revealed themselves. I'm looking at replacements rather than welding, depending on what comes up. However open to all options at the moment.
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I think the crankcase was doomed from the point someone sheared the bolt, this must have happened when it bottomed out. I have managed to track down the previous owner and he has been kind enough to give me a pretty full history, certainly at some point the bike had crash bars fitted, then removed...I noticed the cracks appear whilst the dirt was still on the casing, so in the first image, the cracks weren't there. I should have taken another image to show how they looked before I cleaned off the dirt to show how they revealed themselves. I'm looking at replacements rather than welding, depending on what comes up. However open to all options at the moment.
If you are going down the replacement route I do have a set of cases stashed away under the bench. No crank. Think they have had the usual camchain bolt issue from memory... PM me if of interest. I wont want silly money.
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I think the crankcase was doomed from the point someone sheared the bolt, this must have happened when it bottomed out. I have managed to track down the previous owner and he has been kind enough to give me a pretty full history, certainly at some point the bike had crash bars fitted, then removed...I noticed the cracks appear whilst the dirt was still on the casing, so in the first image, the cracks weren't there. I should have taken another image to show how they looked before I cleaned off the dirt to show how they revealed themselves. I'm looking at replacements rather than welding, depending on what comes up. However open to all options at the moment.
If you are going down the replacement route I do have a set of cases stashed away under the bench. No crank. Think they have had the usual camchain bolt issue from memory... PM me if of interest. I wont want silly money.
This sounds like a life saver or should I say engine saver.
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Wouldn't cost you much to try and repair it with metallic repair paste such as JB weld.
Groove the cracks out with a dremmel, clean out with thinners and then apply the metal paste.
If it's not successful then you've not lost much....
Good luck
Skoti
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If you are stripping the engine anyway why not have it welded internaly
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If you can't fix it I've got a spare set of cases with matching crankshaft.
I need to make some room in the garage!
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Bummer :(. That's exactly what happened to my first 400/4. I bought it with crash bars fitted, took them off because they were rusty and replaced the bolts. When I stared the bike I quickly had a pool of oil under the engine from the crack. I bought a replacement engine for £50 from Frank but that was in 1979!
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Thanks so much for the help guys, Tim has me sorted with a matching crank and cases which is fantastic.
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Drilled out the engine mounting bolt which was mostly something like body filler until well down to just above the nut. Drilling the actual bolt wasn't too bad as I used a new 11 mm HSS Cobalt bit. 10 mm bit wasn't long enough to give clearance between the drill chuck and the crankcase. I drilled away a good part of the nut also. Anyhow it was all going fine until the bolt was relieved when the end of the nut was reached. I could see cracks open up slowly in front of my eyes, almost in slow motion. Bummer. The end of the bolt was pressed up hard against the crankcase which must have been causing stress. The pictures tell it better than words. First image shows most of the bolt removed before any cracks. 3rd image shows the indentation in the crankcase made by the end of the bolt. Anyhow this leaves me needing replacement crankcases or possibly a welding job? I haven't split them yet as I'm waiting on a clutch nut tool at the moment. Can't wait to see what's inside!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sHrq2Xko7tHU2FuE7
Are you sure they are cracks and not just casting flaws as they all seem to have slightly raised ridges? Pity you did not clean the cases in the area first as if they were they present before drilling you would have seen them?
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I found the link to someone who had a similar problem and how they cured it.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,21245.0.html
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Crank cases split with some difficulty, the top bolt near the drive sprocket sheared leaving an inch of bolt in the bottom half, this one is exposed and had badly rusted. However once the cases were split the remainder came out OK with mole grips. Inside very grimy but the gears all look good. Crank shells are excellent. Horseshoe completely seized and very worn. Bit more disassembly then cleaning and assessment.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/McKNaChzh5Y7fpNi7
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Drilled out the broken bolt tensioner from the cam chain adjuster so that I could remove the cam chain bar. This really didn't want to come out. Left a fairly central 6 mm hole in the case so it could be re-threaded if I end up using this case for any reason. The cam chain bar came out in good nick but it was very tight in the hole so probably just needs deburring with a fine grade of emery.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tk5am6szGwEf8pez5
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Burrs caused by a PO overtightrning it.
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Having measured piston clearance at 10 thou, decided on a re-bore which has now been done! Dechromed and polished clutch casing now back from Agbrigg looks brilliant. One of my cylinder head bolts had a damaged thread so had to be removed which was a pig of a job. Really had to keep the faith that successive heat cycles in oven and then with my puny blowtorch combined with WD40 would actually work. 4 visits to the oven with the last cooking cycle at 150 did the trick. What surprised me was for how many turns the bolt stayed stiff, only to come out with very little to show for it on the threads which are in perfect nick. Many thanks to my amazing wife who didn't moan once about me using the oven and all she got for Valentines day was a Covid jab, in for mine on Wednesday!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q37ysChqBLj1TRyN8
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Reads that you are making good progress now.
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Problem with that bar is the dimple from the drill which the end of the lockbolt will always find, it needs to be flat so if you cant get another one it needs weding and flatening
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Thanks for the tip Bryan I did wonder about that.
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Frame is now fully stripped down and I have stripped 80% of the paint from it. I have got the silencer separated from the headers so they can soon be sent for chroming, the 2 clamps are useless so I'll be looking to source replacements, I'm guessing original ones aren't available any longer. The silencer is pretty rotten on the inside so will also be looking to replace that.
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Bought a Gateros plating kit and started plating with some crank case bolts. Happy with the results so far and it's a lightweight job I can be doing since I banjaxed my back, stripping the frame! Back is on the mend now and the frame is completely stripped, just needs a final clean before painting as it has been stood for a while. Engine work still ongoing.
Plating pics.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vDCvXd5aR91kTgJv7
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smoothoperator & Bryan,
What I found when I took my cam chain tensioner bar out the PO applied that much force they actually bent the bar at the flattened section... and they (POs) wonder "how on earth did I strip that thread..???" sheesh...
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Primed the frame today use the MK I spray booth i.e. Outdoors on a calm sunny day. Also collected some bits that Trigger has fixed so a productive (Birth)day. Fish and chips on the way.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZojbH7ZjffVeP2oB8
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That gey primer looks good mate!
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Black paint applied on another sunny day. Finally getting somewhere.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZojbH7ZjffVeP2oB8
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Crank cases painted and cooked. Dry fitting to check both upper and lower case bolts all go in OK, which they did. Did the same with the sump yesterday and had to chase out one hole with a tap and found that 2 bolts need replacing due to damaged threads. Stuck another £200 in the bank of David Silver so engine rebuild can start soon.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZojbH7ZjffVeP2oB8
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The zinc plating looks good you're certainly ahead of me on the build!
I'm in pause mode at present - I need to get my threads for the cam horseshoe done but have temporarily run out of roundtuits. In a rash move I bought a spare engine for working on in 2022/3.
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I have been very impressed with the Gateros kit and got good results pretty much from the off. I chose to buy their PSU to give me good control over current and I think this really makes life simpler. I use 0.1 A per square inch of whatever is being plated. At this current things come out grey rather than shiny, then they turn miraculously silver after a 30 second dip in blue passivate. This technique is recommended by them. I have found that by using a hot water bath with the alkali cleaner has also worked fine, it is recommended to get this much hotter by using a gas ring or similar. I Make sure that everything I plate is already mechanically spotless and degreased before putting in the alkali bath.
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I've used Gateros kit for several years - works well. I use a battery charger with the basic current control. You just have to be well organised with all your various tubs of alkaline, pickle acid, clean water (for rinsing between each stage) and pasivate.
Why I like it is you can plate as you build the bike (in small chunks) - just follow the instructions!
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More test building on the engine. A few of the head bolts were removed during strip down so I was checking the depth before loctiting them in. The one on the back right of the photo leans over a bit the case has been helicoiled a bit off vertical in the past. This makes it awkward to fit the barrels (without pistons!) so I think I will put it in once the pistons are in. Head also awkward but not so much as to cause a problem, so the sequence will be fit barrels, then bolt, then head. I need to source 2 dowty washers, if anyone reading this knows where to get them please let me know.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PpsrWLLxUEt2Bbs66
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There was a thread a while ago about the dowty type washers and where to buy them (instead of DSS). I have tried to find the thread in the seach but no luck. Hopefully someone may be along soon who knows how to find it!
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That's looking good Steve I'm way behind you at the moment - upper crankcase at engineers having a couple of Helicoils fitted.
Out of interest how did you clean the fins up on the block & head they look good?
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Dowty washers on fleabay
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Rocker cover stripped, clean and painted. One of the easier engine parts to do and very satisfying to see a before and after picture. Some of the tappet adjusters are badly pitted however as luck would have it there is a set of decent used spares in the small box of parts that came with the bike.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fcs7CUVpEfyhRgj19
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Camshaft top cover is looking good Steve,
I know it's not a race but I'm in Groundhog Day mode awaiting my upper crankcase return from having the Helicoils done on the cam tensioner arm.
It will be next week before the Zinc plated bolts are done for the crankcase bolts.
I am looking forward to assembling the crankcase halves (again) and fitting the pistons & barrels.
It's all about the build as they say on American Chopper!
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Serviced the oil pump today with new O Rings from Julie. I don't know if the dots on the pump rotors should both be facing the same way up, but they weren't. Having stripped, cleaned and measured for wear I put it back together the same way as it was before I took it apart. General condition was excellent but certainly some wear on the O Rings.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oACptEQE4Cc7QFs17
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Both dots should be facing you, one dot opposite the other, so you get the Gerotor in the correct position. But, yours will already be worn in with the dot not showing, so agree, put it back as it was.
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Thanks Julie, I was a bit worried about which way to go, as well as confused by the Haynes gibberish, but I figure that the dots are just there to aid getting the drive spindle in easily. I can't see it matters too much provided it all goes back together and turns freely when tightened up, which it does.
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Have started rebuilding the engine and looking at the main and big ends at the moment. On disassembly I thought the main and big end shells looked good to re-use, however...Fitted No 1 conrod dry and there is visible movement when "waggling" the rod, so much so that I wouldn't even bother with plastigauge. I was really hoping to dodge this bullet! Not on grounds of cost but from reading many baffling posts on shell colours, crank markings, case lettering, unmeasurable journals etc etc. However it looks like I'm stuck with the problem so here goes. I'll stick with the big end shells for a start. There are no visible colours on any of them, where do I go from here?
Pictures of crank showing all visible markings.
Edit, added a close up of a big end shell to show the lack of paint marking. The brown colour that is there wipes off and is the same colour as all of the internals that were covered in brown grime.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1yByMnaW2RkaJsaE6
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When you say waggle do you mean rock at the small end or there is side play at the big as in slide sideways ?
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There are 2 components. 1 is side to side which is the movement as the rod slides along the crank in the limited space it has to do so, this is probably the biggest element which I see as "normal", the other is a rocking movement which I interpret as a clearance between the shells and the journal.
As a test I removed the conrod, re-tightened the 2 bolts, then slid it on to the main journals at either end of the crank, the amount of "waggle" felt about the same. I expected it to feel tight I suppose but it slid on easily. I am assuming that the main journals are the same nominal diameter as the big end journals.
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Cant remember but Honda manual will tell you.
Can you post a pic of the bearing surface of shells? And i would still check clearance with plastigauge
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I am assuming that the main journals are the same nominal diameter as the big end journals.
Mine were
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There are 2 components. 1 is side to side which is the movement as the rod slides along the crank in the limited space it has to do so, this is probably the biggest element which I see as "normal", the other is a rocking movement which I interpret as a clearance between the shells and the journal.
As a test I removed the conrod, re-tightened the 2 bolts, then slid it on to the main journals at either end of the crank, the amount of "waggle" felt about the same. I expected it to feel tight I suppose but it slid on easily. I am assuming that the main journals are the same nominal diameter as the big end journals.
Have you checked it with Plastigauge are the conrod halves bolted together the right way round?
Not sure checking it against the end mains will give you any answers.
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Panic over, must learn to stop trusting my instincts and measure first. After a lot of plastigauging, both mains and big ends found to be well in spec so the old shells are going back in for another tour of duty. Started rebuilding the engine only to be stalled by another gremlin, one which doesn't rely on instinct, just eyeballs. Should have spotted it earlier however, 2 missing needles from the starter drive needle bearing. Part number is a superseded one so as the weather was nice went out for a ride to the local Honda dealer however it was a polite no can do and have you heard of David Silvers. The part is on a 2 week waiting time. Lot's of painting left to do before the weather turns.
Big ends now feel fine with some lubrication in them btw.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QFsHMVdFrBpvn8uZ9
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Good news on the crank bearings a pain about the needle roller though. I'm waiting for a pair of dowels before I can fit the barrels.
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New needle roller received and fitted. Joined crankcase halves together, moving on to installing the clutch side parts next. Most of these have been cleaned ready however I have yet to look at the clutch plates which are currently still in the basket untouched since I took the engine apart way back in December.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tRHzLsapSjHFDNYS9
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Nice looking bolts you have!
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Clutch fitted with new Koyo bearing bought through Simply Bearings at an amazing price. Oil pump fitted. Points fitted with gap and static timing set. I replaced my points plate with a second hand one but found actually that the 2 stripped threads were screws and not the back plate which is obviously harder than the screws. One way to by screws I guess. New pistons in, a job I was a bit apprehensive about but with care and patience, they actually went in without putting up a fight.
I have built the engine up on the bench so far as I don't have a bike lift and didn't want to put the pistons in while crouched down. For now I am thinking about the choice between putting the engine into the frame with just a few parts fitted, e.g. Main stand, swing arm, OR building up the frame so that it has both wheels fitted. Any tips welcomed. I took the engine out by laying the bike on its side whilst it was pretty much fully built, and found this easy. In reverse though it seems it would be easier to protect the frame by putting the engine in at an early stage, but then how does this impact on building up the rest of the bike...
Pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yTV3j1RgXTKCbzV3A
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I would build the bike up to a rolling chassis then get someone to help lift the engine in. As you say, it's really easy to lay the engine on its side and refit frame over it but then you have the problem of fitting the forks, swing arm, wheels etc. This is easy to do if you have a bike ramp to hang the front end off so you can fit the forks but never tried it without a ramp. Great photos, its looking very good.
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I would build the bike up to a rolling chassis then get someone to help lift the engine in. As you say, it's really easy to lay the engine on its side and refit frame over it but then you have the problem of fitting the forks, swing arm, wheels etc. This is easy to do if you have a bike ramp to hang the front end off so you can fit the forks but never tried it without a ramp. Great photos, its looking very good.
Fwiw I put my engine into the frame with just the front wheel in place whist on the centre stand for stabiity on my bike ramp, with no sump fitted (I fashioned a cardboard sump cover held in with 4 short screws to keep muck out) when the basic crankcase was fitted I then fitted the block & pistons - at present the chain guides are in place ready for fitting ther cylinder head. I fitted the sump yesterday but am waiting for some bits from DS before I fit the head. I was going to do the laying the frame on it's side route but did it the above way as it was easy to put some protection on the frame pus my rear wheel is not yet fitted. When I came to fitting the chain guides I found a torch held from above enabled me to check the guide location easily. There are cleary a number of ways to achieve the same outcome - what works for you is the best one - all roads lead to Damascus!
My brother helped with the lift as Wendy has a bad back & my brother is built like Cheyene Bodie he is 10 years my junior.
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Plan to fit the engine at the weekend with some help. Meanwhile I have started the coil fix as a) one coil already had epoxy resin on one end I think in an attempt to keep water out, the inner wire is corroded slightly and b) because the HT leads are so stiff. Needed a new soldering iron as mine is ancient, also I wanted one that had temperature control, didn't spend much however it has worked well. As for the manufacturer, I've attached a picture, I am now the proud owner of a ....
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Plan to fit the engine at the weekend with some help. Meanwhile I have started the coil fix as a) one coil already had epoxy resin on one end I think in an attempt to keep water out, the inner wire is corroded slightly and b) because the HT leads are so stiff. Needed a new soldering iron as mine is ancient, also I wanted one that had temperature control, didn't spend much however it has worked well. As for the manufacturer, I've attached a picture, I am now the proud owner of a ....
Struth, what a mouthful for a manufacturers company name 😳😳😳😳😳
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well...I guess the corporate e-mail must take a while to type in!
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Engine fitted to frame today which went in so easily it was a bit of an anti climax, at least it's not sat on the floor any more. Managed to get my walk in Covid booster jab afterwards so overall a productive day.
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Looking good Steve pleased to read elsewhere that the pistons went in without bother.
My progress is starting to slow due to a combination of lack of application / energy & cooler weather plus I have a wasps nest in my garage eaves so the blighters are everywhere.
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One of my coils was in poor condition and an attempt to prevent water getting in has clearly been made. Also the HT leads are stiff and there is damage on the outer sleeve. So I checked the resistances which were in spec then carried out the repair thanks to the method given by Ashimoto. I still have the second coil to do although this is in better condition it still needs the leads replacing. I now need to find some outer sleeving to complete the job. Pics show some of the stages, starting with the coil as it was at the start. Also one of the HT caps has intermittent o/c so I intend to replace all four. 2 are easy to find but the other 2 are proving difficult to source, (they have differing angles). It has been a very satisfying job. Thanks again to Ash.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mXmJbZRsTr1Cci2D6
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Look in the on line NGK catalogue for the cap numbers then you can search by number
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Have you tried Greenspark? Nice job on the coils btw.
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I feel guilty now that I binned my old coils when I went over to the dark side and fitted my Dynatec system.
To be fair I hoard all my old bits now - lessons learnt.
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Rocker cover on and tappets adjusted. Finishing the second coil as I go along. No joy with spark plug caps at Greenspark or DS. I have found the VD05F 120 degree ones for £4 each and a different supplier for the XD05F 90 degree but at a whopping £11 each so still looking for the moment. Also started checking and cleaning the wiring harness. Converted an iphone sim release pin for getting connectors out.
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8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Looking old, Ted.
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Looking old, Ted.
Pssst I am old!
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Sorry, Ted. Bloody technology. Me too, though. :(
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Have been refurbishing the loom. It's mostly in good condition but some poor connectors and some old repairs to fix, mainly in connector blocks that take the hit from water due to their position on the frame. I have found adhesive cloth Tesa brand tape to be really good. My soldering skills needed something of a brush up, plenty of useful videos on Youtube have helped. Positioned the loom on the bike today to see if some connectors will reach after cutting and fitting new connectors, which was the case for the connectors from the starter to the solenoid, however the two red wires to the fuse block will need new sections soldering in. This connector block had been bypassed and good old lego blocks used. The original spades have almost completely gone. Reading lots of posts on which gauge wire to use, I think this stuff looks about right. What with AWG, thin wall, std wall, cross section, it is a bit of a minefield.
https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/%22TW2.0mm%20Cut%20Cable%22
A few pics
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3bcv6BAYcVXDG5JY6
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Slow progress at the moment due to the cold. Stanchions back from Philpotts which are as new, so the forks are going back together. Clocks back from Peter which totally live up to the praise he gets on this forum for the amazing transformation and great service he provides. Bought some bits from Wemoto for the first time and have to say they are very well priced, quick turnaround and have excellent customer service. They missed out some fuses and they responded immediately to an email and posted them the next day, no questions asked.
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Working on the rear wheel today. Plan to replace the bearings as there is some noise when spinning the wheel on my truing stand, could just be the sound of grit falling in the hub but anyway I will replace them. Meanwhile removed the cush drive rubbers by first drilling out most of the rubber and then hitting with a sharp screwdriver. Final stage was to cut a slot with a hacksaw blade and then split the outer wall with a small sharp screwdriver to tear the outer alongside the cut line and then peel it out.
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Working on the rear wheel today. Plan to replace the bearings as there is some noise when spinning the wheel on my truing stand, could just be the sound of grit falling in the hub but anyway I will replace them. Meanwhile removed the cush drive rubbers by first drilling out most of the rubber and then hitting with a sharp screwdriver. Final stage was to cut a slot with a hacksaw blade and then split the outer wall with a small sharp screwdriver to tear the outer alongside the cut line and then peel it out.
Helpful photo Steve - I have my original wheels still, the rear drive dampers need replacing - a picture is worth a thousand words.
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Theyre reknowned as being a pig to do. Mine were 'neclear welded' in by 'time' and after swearing at the first one for ages trying to get it out I chose to do some reading up a bit, might even of been on here.
There's various methods spoken about but I drilled down with a 6mm drill bit through the rubber and the metal that sits on the spidle creating a split, rather than use a hack saw blade and they simply came straight out and I think I had them all out in about 10 minutes.
With them being so corroded in when I replaced them I gave them a good coating of 'ginger' so they might come out a bit easier if they need replacing again under my watch. Pushed them in with a hand clamp and a wooden spacer and finished them off ;) with a socket to tap them all down. Worked a treat.
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Ted,
sent you a pm with some crap photos of a very bad drawing I quickly did but since found the thread on the 'sherman' site that I read and had a go at. He descies it much better than I can. Well worth a read and as found out, it works a treat.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,27968.0.html
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New DID rims arrived so started with the front. I don't mind admitting that I found the lacing completely baffling at first until I switched to a different video tutorial and it all came together much more easily. Actually found the truing to be much more straight forward, well anyway easier than I was expecting. Nice to have a warm inside the house job to do in this weather. Need to clean up the rear hub and fit the drive rubbers before I start on that. Hub looks dirty on the photo but it isn't!
Link to video that got me sorted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guOaA0BzaNM
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I'm impressed Steve building your own wheels - respect.😎
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Nice work smooth operator.
I'm more often building cycle wheels currently, but when you get into it not too difficult and quite therapeutic to sit quietly lacing and then truing.
Pattern looks confusing initially, most of them repeat in rim with 4 spoke cadence of two inner and two outer making the 4 consecutive spokes round the rim, and hub having (usually) each spoke crossing three others on its way to the rim location. Someone explained it to me like that and it made it easier than it looks at first sight to lace them.
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I did mine on 'Chewy' and found the same experience as you. The lacing does your head in until that spark comes from another tutorial and you're away. I true'd up mine flat like you, in the vice after watching Alan Millyard do his. Similar to you, it was way easier than i expected. I always thought it was a dark art too, I'm really
looking forward to doing the 550 now :)
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I've always liked the truing, firstly on bicycles prior to getting motorcycles and made a small (proper spanner shape in miniature) spoke spanner for Honda wheels as an apprentice with thick section jaw in hardened steel, as opposed to many commercial type made of cheese :) to prevent rounded spoke nipples.
Still do, trying to teach my son on bicycles but he subs them all out to me ::)
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Tyres fitted yesterday so wheels now looking more like, well, wheels. Rear brake panel has taken a LOT of polishing by hand. Starting to rebuild around headlamp area, zinc plating kit is coming in very useful for various bolts, top hat washers etc.
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Tyres fitted yesterday so wheels now looking more like, well, wheels. Rear brake panel has take a LOT of polishing by hand. Starting to rebuild around headlamp area, zinc plating kit is coming in very useful for various bolts, top hat washers etc.
Don't they look posh 😍😍😍
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Very smart indeed. Great result.
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Routing cables etc around the front end, quite a jigsaw but it feels like progress. Routing diagram from this site is so useful, as are photos from disassembly and little black book full of notes particularly on wiring connections. I've also grown a beard which is coming in handy for beard scratching contemplation.
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You must be very close to the finish line Steve.
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Still a fair number of bits to do but hopefully will be somewhere near complete by April, at least I feel close enough to set a target.
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Inching towards being in a position to be back on the road. Current plan is to more or less complete but leave some jobs for later whilst I see what sort of bike is emerging from this restoration. For example I cant lay my hands on a silencer at the moment and whilst mine looks OK the baffles are only hanging on by a thread. I have all the electrics working but haven't tested the coils, starter or oil pressure as yet, obviously the latter will require an engine start! Working on the carbs at the moment without a complete strip down, mainly because the bike was running when I first recommissioned it and I'm too chicken to take them completely to bits before at least having a go at seeing how things go as they are. I have cleaned all the jets and everything accessible from removing the float bowls, set float heights and bench sync etc.
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It's looking good Steve. 👍
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Great progress Steve - great looking wheels. 8)
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Carbs finally leak free having fitted 4 new float valves, leak free for now for now anyway. Tried the starter motor, nothing doing. Checked continuity to starter button and found it to be intermittent, took it apart and cleaned it out, too liberal with the dielectric grease when I worked on it about a year ago I think. Continuity sorted, still a no go. Tried the spanner over the solenoid contacts and the starter turned fine. Traced the actual fault to an oxidised female connector to the neutral light on the solenoid so put on a new connector which sorted it. Didn't take many turns of the engine for the oil pressure light to go out so that was a relief, I had kicked it over quite a few times previously. Not many jobs left before an attempt at starting!
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Your achingly close to D Day. 😊
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Sorry for the pre amble but a significant day in the rebuild. Dithered about starting the bike for the first time today as it started off badly, touchy negotiations with neighbour over a back fence dispute, puncture on dog walk, crap customer service by National tyres in Corby, 1/2 hour wait followed by we can't fix that, £195 quote for a tyre they can fit tomorrow, well I don't live that near to Corby it was the nearest place to the dog walk. Tiptoed back home and organised same tyre tomorrow for £120 by my trusty tyre fitter. Anyways sod it I got things ready for a start up, including tipping the bike from side to side and moving the overflow tubes into a viewable position as the carbs leaked again, and much to my amazement ..... it started. Lots of tinkering left to do! No oil leak from the area of the crank case I was worried about as discussed in my earlier posts. Touch wood! Sounds absolutely great!! Occasional reluctance for revs to fall back but did start to improve after a little bit of running, hopefully this will settle down. Enlisted wife to video the event, hopefully link works. Start was from stone cold, genuine first attempt, no cheating!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4HRLcECeZ7cqta2K8
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I'm sorry you started off with a shite day Steve but, how fantastic is that.....running 👏👏👏👏👏. Well done you. That's a lot of hard work on your part.
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Nice work, and lovely looking bike, great when you get to start one after rebuild.
Classic 70s juggle between choke and throttle too :) engine sounds good.
Doesn't hurt to let them rev a bit as fast idle (anything up to 2700 rpm ) won't damage it when cold, it'll just get it off choke quicker.
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Great news Steve you beat me to it.
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Video is a bit blurry but you get the full glory if you download it. Something to do with HEVC video on iphone not compatible with blah blah blah. Something for me to work on.
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A shite day well salvaged. Sounds fantastic and well done. Like K" said, its fantastic when they burst into life after being in a heap of bits on the bench. Just like the Long Haire Generals did after a cough and a fart with the choke, ticks along lovely, you must be well chuffed?
Well done ;) :)
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First ride out today having had the engine running last week. Took some pics and included an original from when I first got the bike to show the difference. Engine ran well, smooth pick up and stable tickover. First fill up, then first problem, bike started to stutter about a mile from the garage, erm, fuel tap off! Realised this and turned on and all well again. Amazing how we get used to our modern bikes and never having to think about these things, I had turned it off at the garage. Gear change too high needs adjusting. Some clutch slip but this improved during the short ride so need to monitor. However, one bigger issue, immediately apparent that handlebars were not square in order to achieve a straight line, they are slightly to the right. Balls.
When I rode the bike before the restore this was not the case. I have had the stanchions refurbed at Philpotts so they are now straight, there was a slight bend in them that was visible when removed. So I guess this means one or both of the yokes are bent OR I didn't put it together correctly. As I am not really happy about the balls, and I nicked the lower yoke with the dremel to remove the lower ball cup, I was thinking of putting in a replacement yoke with taper bearings in any case.
Anyhow not too bad for starters and, still no oil leaks!
Pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPuRWPzyKKcfhpAF9
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Great news Steve I've not managed any more work this weekend due to the cold spell I am planning on sorting out some bits & bobs if its any warmer next week.
I'm only a few hours work away from trying to start mine up.
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Great job! She is looking good. There’s always inevitably going to be some teething troubles. Big difference the before and after.
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Great work Steve, that first ride is always so exciting but a bit nerve racking as well.
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Standard workshop method for straightening frnt end is to stand facing the headlamp with the front wheel grasped tightly between your legs, grab hold of both grips and twist the way it needs to go, go slightly past as it will spring back.
Afterwards check all the clamp bolts have stayed tight
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Thanks for the words of encouragement guys, it's appreciated. Bryan, on the twisting method, do you do that with the bolts slackened, then tighten after getting alignment, or is it done after initial tightening. We used a similar method back in the day after one of our many minor tumbles, but I don't recall if we slackened off the pinch bolts first, in fact there are a lot of things I don't remember.
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Thanks for the words of encouragement guys, it's appreciated. Bryan, on the twisting method, do you do that with the bolts slackened, then tighten after getting alignment, or is it done after initial tightening. We used a similar method back in the day after one of our many minor tumbles, but I don't recall if we slackened off the pinch bolts first, in fact there are a lot of things I don't remember.
Just slacken off the top yoke pinch bolts ;)
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Cheers Trigger :)
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Engine looks a lot better than when i see it in the boot of your car in Peterborough ::)
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540 miles done, changed the oil and filter at 500. I've had the plugs out a few times to check the mixture and bit by bit making adjustments to the airscrews. Put a new DS (Brituro) silencer on which I'm very happy with, especially now that the rattling baffle has gone. It did change the mixture though, leaner, so I'm still tweaking. Throttle response is now good with the revs settling back quickly to tickover after revving. I have been up to 7000 rpm, it certainly makes an induction roar when accelerating hard through 6000 rpm, it did bother me at first but I'm getting used to it now! I also had a bit of a misfire which became more noticeable when riding harder, but happily this has completely gone after replacing the plug caps on 2 and 3 with the elusive NGK XD05F's. The search for the next project has begun!
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540 miles done, changed the oil and filter at 500.
Nice one Steve 540 miles that's impressive - I'm still stuck at 1.4 miles - as soon as the weather breaks I hope to have a ride out out to Ashbourne or similar as I need to know it will get me to Crich & back.
So what is your next project going to be staying with Honda?
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Maybe a 500 or 750, non Honda would be a Yamaha RD 400, reliving the seventies again. Other than that I'm fairly open but I do want something that is fun to ride. I don't have room for another bike yet so I plan to enjoy the 400 over the summer then take a look at what's about.
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Maybe a 500 or 750, non Honda would be a Yamaha RD 400, reliving the seventies again. Other than that I'm fairly open but I do want something that is fun to ride. I don't have room for another bike yet so I plan to enjoy the 400 over the summer then take a look at what's about.
Is that a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke I do not know my Yamahas asside from RD 250's etc ?
I've ridden a 305 GT I think it was Yamaha with Ape Hangers it was mental. I am led to believe the spares are very expensive.
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RD400 was a surprisingly quick 2 cylinder 2 stroke Ted. An upgrade on the RD250 which was very popular in the early 80s. IIRC it looked identical except for the twin front discs.
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RD400 was a surprisingly quick 2 cylinder 2 stroke Ted. An upgrade on the RD250 which was very popular in the early 80s. IIRC it looked identical except for the twin front discs.
Sounds like a great bike my mates 305GT if I have the name right was impressive - I rode it in 1977 I still remember clinging to the rubber mounted bars in fear as I took off!
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YM1:305GT Big Bear. A rare beast indeed.
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Very dated look compared to the RD400 though, never a 2 stroke fan myself but the RD400 was an impressive bit of kit. The RD500 was pretty impressive as well, got to ride one on a test ride after servicing it, long first gear and not comfortable around town but went well ;D ;D
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Yes, agree. I think the last coffin tank 400 was the best.
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It was the over 100 in 3rd that got me on the RD500 i set up
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Yes, agree. I think the last coffin tank 400 was the best.
Definitely a very good bike, looked after and rode extensively a friend's one (last I think 400 E) so much fun and very different from the Honda, a huge contrast.
I liked the earlier type brake calipers of twin piston much like the TZ of the time, but they put single piston sliding caliper on the E and lost a bit of race cachè in my view, still an effective brake system though.
A real classic I feel.
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Fetching serious money too.....
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There was definitely an E version but I think the last was the F model, could be wrong, it was a very long time ago.